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TRAVELS

Ilf

VARIOUS COUNTRIES

EUROPE ASIA AND AFRICA

■T

E. D. CLARKE LL.D.

PAlkT THE FIRST

■ • • -

RUSSIA TAKtARY AND TURKEY

FOURTH EDITION

VOLUME THE SE(X)ND

LONDON

PRINTED FOR T. CAOELL AND W. DAVIES

!■ TBI iriuaD
BY H. WATTS CaOWH COUBT TBMPIK BAR.

MDCCOZTU.

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LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS AND MAPS

CONTAINXD IN

VOLUME THE SECOND,

TO 8IIIVI AS 0IRK0TI0N8 TO TH£ BINUBR.

Map of the Antiquities of the Crimea . . to face the Title,
Chart of the Bay ot Aktiavy or Ctenus of Strabo^ to face p. 202

LIST OF THE VIGNETTES

iff'i^OLVMSTH^WCOND.

• • • ••

TBB VWf KlfrU AXB BI^RATIO OM WOOD, BT AUSTIN.

•

No. Page

1 ^ Wretched Appearance of the Po8t«House in Kuban

Tahtary 1

CHAP. II.

2. Castle, represented on a Greek Medal, of very high

antiquity . , 51

CHAP. III.

3. Top of a Sarcophagus at Yenikali 91'

CHAP. IV.

4. Profile of Professor Pallas f from a Drawing by E, D.

Clarke 143

CHAP. V.

6. Insects of the Crimea^ from the original, by Angelica

Clarke 196

VIGNETTES TO THE SECOND VOLUME.

No. Page

CHAP. VI.

6. Vessels of Terra Cotta preserving antique forms,

in use among the Tahtars 231

CHAP. VII.

7. Map of the Point and Bay of Phanari shewing the

Site of the older of the two Cities of the Cherso^
nesians, in the Heracleotic Peninsula . . . .273

CHAP. VIII.

8. The Tomb of Howard 301

CHAP. IX.

9. Medal of 0/6u>po/u 351

••••:••;'•/•

JCaXP.'Sr. !

10. Profiles of a Russian and &*G}*ee)bv:£r(9Ala drawing

hvE.D. Clarke . ."•.'':••;••>''.•. . . 382

• •'• •• .•• •• »
#•*«•'•'« ••# . •

ly U A« . jLXm • • • > • • • • •

1 1 . Chart of the Turkish Harbour of Ineada^ in the

Black Sea . 422

•••••••* •• • ••••

• • ••: 1 •. •••' • • m ^ •

•• k* • • •

• t • • • • >

GENERAL

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS

TO PART THE FIRST,

VOLUME THE SECOND.

CHAP. I.
P. 1.

JOURNEY THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY, tO THE
FRONTIER OF CIRCA8SIA.

Relay $ for Horses — River Ae — Cossacks of the Black Sea —
Cause of their Migration — How distinguished from Don
CossackSy and from Russians — Wild Fowl — Singular Spe-
cies of Mole — CheruHnovskoy — Plants — Rate of Tra-
veiling — Tumuli — Stragglers from the Army — View of the
Caucasian Mountains — Capital of the Tchbrnomorski —
Manners of the People — their Dress and External Ap-
pearance— Visit from the Ataman — Causes of the War in
Circassia — Passage of the Kuban — Advance of the Cos-
sack Army — Arrival of the Pasha of Anapa — Ceremony
of concluding the Peace — Circassian Princes — Peasants of
Circassia — Dances of the Circassians — Language — Lesgi
— Remarkable instance of Bravery in a Circassian — Ctr-
cassian Women — Commerce with the Tchernomorski —
Skill in Horsemanship — State of Travelling in Caucasus.

CHAP. II.
P. 51.

JOURNEY ALONG THE FRONTIER OF CIRCASSIA,
TO THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS.

Quarantine — Secon Excursion into Circassia — Departure
from Ekatcrinedara— Proc/i/ ceo/* Me Land— Division of the

VOL. II. A

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.

River — Mosquitoes ^General Appearance of the Circassian
Territory — Watch- Towers — Cimme ri an Bosporus — Tern-
rook — Text of Strabo and Pliny reconciled — Fortress and
Ruins — Sienna — Remarkable Tomb — Antiquity of Arches
— Milesian Gold Bracelet — Origin of Temples — Cepoe —
Fortress of Taman — Taman — Ruins q/" Phanagoria —
Tmutaracan — A mphitheatre — Other Remains — Prekla
Volcano — Inscriptions at Taman,

CHAP. III.
P. 97.

FROM THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS, TO CAFFA.

Passage across the Straits — Yenikal^ — Modern Greeks —
Marble Soros— Singular antient Sepulchre — Pharos of
Mithradates — Medals of the Bosporus — Ruins— Kertcuy
— Tomb of Mithradates — View of the Cimmerian Straits
— Antiquities of Kertchy — Account of a stranger who died
there — Fortress — Church — Havoc made by the Russians —
Cause of the obscurity involving the €tntient Topography of
the Crimea — Departure from Kertchy — Antient Vallum —
Locusts-^ Venomouslnsects — Gipsies — Cattle — Tahtars —
Vallum of AsANDER — Arrival at Caffa.

CHAP. IV.

, P. 143.
FROM CAFFA, TO THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA.

Cafia in its present State — Barbarous Conduct of the Russians
— Inscriptions — Distribution of the Town — Departure
from Cafia — Stara Crim — Ruined Baths — Villa of the
Empress — Antient Vallum — Remarkable Mountain — Ka-
rasubasar — Akmetchet — Professor Pallas — Unwholesome
Situation of the Town — Mus Jaeulus, or Jerboa — Obser-
vations of Bochart and others upon that Animal — Bakt-
CHESBRAi — Novel Appcaroncc of the City — Fountains —
Destruction caused by the Russian Troops — Causes which

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.

led to the Deposition and Death of the late Khan — Con^
sequences of the Capture of the Crimea — Palace of the
Khans — Preparatiops made for the Reception of the late
Empress — Seraglio — Description of the Charem — Visit to
the Fortress of Dschoufoutkale — Anecdote of an English
Servant — Extraordinary Ring — Singular Excavation —
Jewish Cemetery — Account of the Sect of Kara'i.

CHAP. V.
P. 193.

FROM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA, TO THE
HERACLEOTIC CHERS0NESU8.

Tarantula Spider — Departure from Baktcheserai — Ctenus
ofStraho — Aktiar — Caverns oflnherman — Mephitic Air
— Cippus of Theagenes — Antient Geography ^ and Antiqui-
ties of the Minor Peninsula — Eupatorium — Chersonesus
— Parthenium of Formaleoni — Monastery of St, George —
Balaclava — Genoese Fortress — Geology of the Crimea —
Extraordinary Geological Phcenomena — Form of an antient
Greek Toton — Manners of the People,

CHAP. VI.

P. 331.

FROM THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSONESUS, ALONG THE
SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

Valley of Baidar — Domestic Habits and Manners of the Tah-
tars — Passage of the Merdveen — Kdtchuckoy — Plants and
Minerals — Transitions — Cri 0-metopon — A loupka— Other
Villages on the Coast — Country between Kdtchiickoy and
Sudak-^Tahiar School — Vestiges of the Genoese Language
— Ruins of a Greek Monastery — AiVdagh Promontory
— Parthenit — Alusta-Tchetirdagh, or Moss Tbapezus—
Shuma — Position of the Crimean Mountains — Derykeiiy
— Mahmoud Sultan — Return to Akmetchet — Marriage Ce-
remony of the Greek Church — Jewish Wedding '^Military
Force of the Crimea — St vorof.

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.

CHAP. VII.
P. 273.

SECOND EXCURSION TO THE MINOR PENINSULA OP

THE HERACLEOTJB.

Professor Pallas accompanies the Author — Mankoop — Ruins
of the Fortress— Cape of the Winds^-JShilil— Fullers-earth
Pits — Manufacture of Keff-kil — Isthmian Wall — Aia
Biir&n — Coins of Vladimir — Alexiano's Chouter — Point
and Bay ofPhanari — Ruins oftheoldChersonesusofStnibo
— Valley of Tchorgona — Danger of the Climate — ^Tahtar
Nobles — Russian Recruit — Salvia Hablitziana — Return to
Ahmetchet,

CHAP. VIII.
P. 301.

FROM THE CRIMEA, BY THE ISTHMUS OF PERECOP,

TO NICHOLAEF.

Journey to Koslof — Result of the Expedition — Return to
Ahmetchet — Marshal Biberstein — Departure from Ahmet'
chet — Perecop — Salt Harvest ^^ Nagay Tahtars — Rana
variabilis — General Survey of the Crimea — Country north
of the Isthmus — Facility of travelling in Russia — Baft-
dittiofthe Ukraine — Anecdote of a desperate Robber — In-
trepid Conduct of a Courier — Caravans — Biroslaf-^Cher-
son — Buried of Potemkin — Recent disposal of his body —
Particulars of the Death of Howard — Order of his Funeral
-r^Tomb of Howard — Nicholaef

CHAP. IX.
P. 361.

FROM NICHOLAEF TO ODESSA.

Remains of Olbiopolis — Inscriptions — Medals — Admiral
Priestman — Mineralised Shells — Observations upon the
Odessa Limestone — Consequences which resulted from the

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.

Opening of the Thracian Bosporus — Conduct of theEmpC'
ror respecting Odessa— Number of discarded Officers — Usu-
rious Practices of theSovereign — Further Account of Odes-
sa— Account of the Passage by Land to Constantinople —
Preparation for sailing from Odessa.

CHAP. X.

V. 882.
VOYAGE FROM ODESSA, TO THE HARBOUR OF INEADA

IN TURKEY.

Contrast between a Russian and a Oreek-^Toumefort*s er-
roneous Account of the Black Sea — Extraordinary Tem-
perature of the Climate — English Commerce in the Black
Sea — Fortress of Odessa — Departure for Turkey — Island
of Leucb — Accounts of it by Antient Writers — Moutks
of ike Danube — White Dolphins --Observations on board
tke Moderato — Dreadful Tempest — Harbour of Ineada —
Plants — Appearance of the Turks — Mountaineers — Basal-
tic Pillars — Theory of their Origin.

CHAP. XI.

P. 422.
FROM THE HARBOUR OF INEADA IN THE BLACK SEA,

TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

Voyage to Constantinople — Entrance of tke Canal — Return
to tke Cyanean Isles — Geological Pkcenomena — Votive
Altar — Singular Breccia — Origin of tke Thracian Bospo-
rus— Antiquities — Of tke Temple of Jupiter Urius, and tke
place called Hieion^^ Probable Situation of Darius wken
ke surveyed the Cuxine — Approach to Constantinople —
Disgusting Appearance of the Streets — Arrival at Oalata
— Pera — State of Turkisk Commerce.

ADDITIOxXAL NOTES, P. 451—456.

GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS.

Appendix, No, 1.
P. 457.
Suvorqf*s Military Instructions for the use of the Russian
Army,

No. II.
P. 469.
Account of English Commerce in the Black Sea.

No. III.

P. 488.
Extract from the Log-Book of the ModeratOy giving an account
of the Author's Voyage in the Black Sea,

No. IV.

P. 604.

List of all the Plants collected in the Crimea, principally in
company with Professor Pallas ; alphabetically arranged.

No. V.
P. 613.'
Temperature of the Atmosphere^ according to Diurnal Oh'
servations made during the Journey , with a corresponding
Statement of the Temperature in England during the samt
period. ,

No. VI.

P. 622.

frames of Places visited in the Author*s Route ; with their
Distances from each other, in Russian Versts, and in Eng-
lisk Miles.

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST, p. 525, &c.

CHAP I.

Relaijt for Hortes — River Ae — Cossacks of the Black Sea
— Cause of their Migration — How distinffvished from
Don Cossacks, and from Rusrians—Wild Fowl — Stn-
gviar Species of Mole—Ckerubinovskoy — Plants — Rate
of Travelling — Tumuli — Stragglers front the Array—'
View of the Caucasiio Mountains -— Capital of the
TcHERKOMOBSKt — Manners of the People — their Dest
and External Appearance — Visit from the Ataman —
Causes of the H'ar in CircassU—Pussage of the Kuban
— Advance of the Cossack Army — Arrival of the Pasha
of Anapa — Ceremony of concluding the Peace — CIt'
catsian Princes— Peatants of Circassia — Dances of the
Circassians — Language — Lesoi — Remarkable instance

2 KUBAN TAHTARY.

of Bravery in a Circassian — Circassian Women — Com-
merce with the Tchemomorski — Skill in Horsemanship —
State of Travelling in Caucasus.

CHAP. Xhe whole territory from the Sea of Azof to
^^^^^ the KubdUf and thence following the course of
that river towards its embouchure, is a con-
tinued desert, and more desolate than the
steppes upon the JEuropean side of the Mjeotis.
Relays for A fcw huts, rudclj constructcd of reeds and
narrow flags, stationed at certain distances,
serve to supply horses for the post. Such
wretched hovels offer neither accommodation
nor food : they are often destitute even of any
thatched covering as a roof ; and exhibit merely
an inclosure, where the horses remain their
stated time, standing in mud or in dung. The
persons who have the care of them, make their
appearance,, when the traveller arrives, from a
hole in the ground; having burrowed, and
formed a little subterraneous cave, in which
they live, like the bobacSf moles, and other te-
nants of the wilderness.

River ae. We left Margaritovskoy on the fifth of July^
admiring the fine view that was presented of

(1) The slight sketch, engraved as a Vignette to this Chapter, may
serve to afford a correct representation of those relays.

KUBAN TAHTARY. ;

the Sea of Azof; and travelled towards the chap.
Ae, one of the several rivers mentioned by
Ptolemy y in this part of Asiatic Sarmatia^ but not
easily identified with any of the antient names
enumerated by him. Ae^ in the Tahtar lan-
guage, signifies good; and the name is said to
have been applied to the river, because its
banks afibrd a favourable pasture for sheep ;
but the water is brackish, and impregnated
with salt.

During the first thirty-six versts^ of this
day's journey, we found Grecian or Malo-Rusnan
inhabitants. Their number in this district does
not exceed seven hundred persons; yet a
proof of their industry and of their superior
importance, as tenants of the land, is offered
in the fact of their affording to their landlord
an average payment of no less a sum annually
than ten thousand roubles. The boundary of
their little territory is formed by the river Ae
towards the south, and the Sea of Azof to the
north. The river Ae separates them from a
different and very extraordinary race of men,
whose history and country we are now pre-
pared to consider ; namely, the Tchernomorski,

(2) Twenty-four English niilet.
VOL. II. B

KUBAN TAHTARY.

CHAP, or Cossacks of the Black Sea ; more dreadful tales
of whom are told to intimidate travellers, than

a^Biack even the misrepresentations circulated in Rusda
^^ concerning their hrethren, the Cossacks of the

Don. We had been directed to augment our
escort, and consequently were always preceded
by a troop of armed Cossack cavalry. It is
true, the figures of those who composed the
body of our own guard did not appear very
conciliating ; but we never had reason to com-
plain, either of their conduct, or of their dis-
honesty.

The Tchemomorski are a brave, but rude
and warlike people ; possessing little of the re-
finements of civilized society, although much
inward goodness of heart. They are ready
to shew the greatest hospitality to strangers
Cause of who solicit their aid. Their original appella-

their Mi- . . ° *^*^

gratioo. tion was Zaporogztzsi, according to the most
exact orthography given to us by Mr. Katxi^
lensky of Taganrog; a term alluding to their
former situation, " beyond the cataracts'* of the
Dnieper. From the banks of this river they
were removed, by the late Empress Catherine,
to those of the Kuban^ in order to repel the
incursions of the Circassians and Tahtars from
the Turkish frontier. Their removal was ori-
ginally planned by Potemkin^ but did not take

COSSACKS OP THE BLACK SEA. >

place until about nine years previous to our chap.
arrival in the country. Their society upon
the Dnieper originally consisted of refugees and
deserters from all nations, who had formed a
settlement in the marshes of that river^ Storch
affirms, that there was hardly a language in
Europe but might be found in use among this
singular people*.

In consequence of the service they rendered
to HussiOf in her last war with Turkey^
Catherine, by an rihaj&e of the second of June
1792, ceded to them the Peninsula of Taman,
and all the coimtries between the Kuban and

(1) ^Thew men originally were deserten and yagabonds from all
aatkmfly who had taken refuge in the marshy islands of the Dnieper.
At the foundation of Cherson, they were chased from their homes, and
took akdter at the mouth of the Danube, still presenring their charae-
ler of fisherman and pirates. Potemkin offering them pay and lands,
thqr returned to the side of Russia, and did great service in the second
Toridsh war. Hey received as a reward the country newly conquered
hook thft Kubao Tartan. They hold their lands by the same tennra»
and e^joy nearly the same pririleges, as the Don Cossacks. They are)
liowe?er, much poorer, and more uncivilized, and nefer quit their
eo«ntry, iHiere indeed they have sufflcient employment They reoelTe
no pay, except an allowance of rye ; and dress themselves at their own
expense, and in whatever colours they choose, without any regard to
nniformity. The officers, for the most part, wear red boots, which is
tkeir only disttnctioD. They deal largely In cattle, and have a barter

of salt fbr com with the Circassians They are generally called

thievca. We found them, however, very honest, where their point of
boDoar was touched^ very good-natured, and, according to their scanty
mmtiMf hospitable." BeberU MS. Journal.

(S) Siorehf Tsbkau de Rnss. tom. I. p. 02.

B 2

\ KUBAN TAHTARY.

CHAP, the Sea of Azof, as far as the rivers Ae * and
Laba ; an extent of territory comprehending
upwards of one thousand square miles\ They
had also allotted to them a constitution in
all respects similar to that of the Don Cos*
sticks, and received the appellation of " Cos-
sacks of the Black Sea.'* They were, more-
over, allowed the privilege of choosing an
Ataman; but their numbers have considerably
diminished. They could once bring mto the
field an army of forty thousand effective cavalry.
At present, their number of troops does not
exceed fifteen thousand. Upon their coming
to settle in Kuban Tahtary^ it was first neces-
sary to expel the original inhabitants, who
were a tribe as ferocious as the Circassians.
Part of these were driven to the Deserts of
Nagay, and the steppes north of the Isthmus of
the Crimea: the rest fled over the Kuban to
Circassian and became subject to the princes who
inhabit Caucasus. At the time we traversed
Kuban, the Tchemomorski occupied the whole
country from the Ae to the Kuban, and from the
BlcLck Sea to the frontier of the Z>on Cossacks.

The Russians speak of them as a band of
lawless banditti. We soon found that they had

(1 ) Starch Tablefta de Ruas. torn. 1. p. 06.

COSSACKS OF THB BLACK SEA. 'J

been much misrepresented; although, among chap.
a people consisting of such various nations and ^^py^w
characters, we certainly could not have tra-
velled without an escort. The road, if the
plain unaltered earth may admit of such an
appeUation, was covered with stragglers, either
going to or coming from the scene of war.
Their figure, dress, and manner, were un*
like any thing seen in Europe ; and however
good the opinion may he that we still enter-
tain of this people, it were trusting too much
to mere opinion, to advise any traveller to'
venture among them unprepared to encounter
danger, where the temptation to commit acts of
hostility, and the power of doing so, exist so
eminently. Thev do not resemble the Cossacks Distin-
of the Douj in habits, in disposition, or in any from the
other characteristic The Cossacks of the Don all «,af.
wear the same uniform : those of the Black Sea
wear any habit suiting their caprice. The Don
Cossack is mild, affable, and polite: the Black-
Sea Cossack is blunt, and even rude, from the
boldness and martial hardihood of his manner.
If poor, he appears clad like a primeval shep-
herd, or the wildest mountaineer ; at the same
time having his head bald, except one long
braided lock from the crown: this is placed
behind the right ear. If rich, he is very lavish
in the costliness of his dress, which consists

8 KUBAN TAHTART.

CHAP, of embroidered velvet, and the richest silks and
cloths of every variety of colour ; wearing at
the same time short cropped hair, giving to his
head the appearance of the finest busts of the
antient Romans. The distinctive mark of a
Black' Sea Cossack^ borne by the lower order
among them, of a braided lock from the crown
of the head, passing behind the right ear, is
retained even by the officers : but it is concealed
by the younger part of them, with very airtfiil
foppery, among their dark hair. They seemed
ashamed to have it noticed; altiiough, like a
relic on the breast of a Catholic, it is pro-
served even with a religious veneration; and
there was not one of them who would not
sooner have parted with his life, than with this
badge of the tribe to which he belonged. The
custom is of Polish origin : but in this part of
the world, it serves like a sign among Free-
masons ; and it distinguishes the Tchemamonki
Cossack from the Cossack of the Don^ as well as
from every other tribe of Cossacks in the Russian
empire. The Tchemomorski are more cheerful
and noisy than the Don Cossacks; turbulent in
their mirth ; vehement in conversation ; some-
what querulous ; and, if not engaged in dispute^
are generally laughing or singing. The Cossaeb
of the Don hold this people in little estimation^

COSSACKS OF THE BLACK SEA. Q

considering them as on inferior band of plun- chap.
derers when in actual service. But it may ^-^v^
be said, the Tchemomarski entertain the same
sentiments with regard to them; making re-
marks similar to those urged by the unedu-
cated and lower class of Englishmen concerning
foreigners; such as, that *^one Cossack of the
Black Sea is a match for any three of his neigh-
bours of the Don.** The Rvssian regards both
with aversion, and affects to consider them as
beneath his notice, and as unworthy of his
society, for no other assignable reason than
ignorance or envy. The Cossack is rich; the Couaeks
Russian is poor. The Cossack is high-minded ; goished
the JRtissian is abject. The Cossack is, for the Ham.
most part, clean in his person, honourable,
valiant, often well-informed, and possesses, with
his loftiness of soul, a very noble stature : the
Russian is generally filthy, unprincipled, das-
tardly, always ignorant, and is rarely dignified
by any elevation of mind or body\

(1) When Mr. ffeber was in this country, his friend Mr. ThomtoHf
the companion of his travels, lost his g^nn ; and they left Ekaterinedara
■apposing it to he stolen ; as tra?ellers in Busria are constantly liable
to thefts of every description. To their great surprise, however, when
they arrived at TVimon, the gun vras brought to them. An express
had been sent after them, who had travelled the whole distance from
^laUrinedara to Taman, to restore the gun to its owner; and the

person

10 KUBAlf TAHTART.

CB^AP. But it is proper to attend more closely to the
detail of the journey. At thirty-six versUf
distance from Margaritovskoy we came to the
river Ae', called Yea hy the Turks^ and IHa hy
the Germans^ a boundary of the territory pos-
sessed by the Tchemomorski. Just before we
crossed this river we passed by a fortress of
considerable magnitude, rudely constructed of
earth, and surmounted by a few pieces of
artillery. This fortress was originally a d^t
of stores, and a barrier against the Tahtars*
It is still garrisoned. The Cammandantj as we
changed horses at Aeskoy^ gave us news of the
war to which we were travelling. From him
we learned, that the allied army of Cassacksj
SclavanianSj and Su^ssians, had crossed the Kubafi,
and had taken several Circassian villages ; that
many Circassian Princes had applied in person
to the Tchemomorski for peace ; that the Pasha
of Anapa had announced his intention of acting
as mediator, and of repairing to the Tcher-

person employed to convey it refused to accept any reward for his
labour. Such fiicts as these require no comment. The character of
the CoMiocks, and their superiority to the Russiam in erery qualification
that can adorn human nature, U completely established.

(I) This river is the Rhombitet Mqjor of Strabo. The trade of
salthig fish is carried on along the coasts of the Sea (f Auff^ aa In tha
most antient times.

COSSACKS OP THB BLACK SEA. ] |

nomorski capital, Ekaterinedara. He cau-
tioned US to be upon our guard concerning
the Tckemomarskiy as the route would now be
filled with deserters, and persons of every
description from the army : and, above all
things, he advised us to increase the number
of our guard, lest treachery might be expe-
rienced from the members of our escort ; " from
whom,'' he said," as much might be apprehended
as firom the CircassiaTis.**

We observed several sorts of game in this wiidFowL
day's journey, particularly the wild turkey, the
pheasant, some wild swans, and wild ducks ;
also a sort of fowl as large as a capon.
In the steppes we caught a very uncommon
species of mole. To us it was entirely new ; gi^^^
although perhaps it may have been the animal ^^^ ^'
mentioned in the Journal des Savans Voyageursj
as known in Mtissia nnder the appellation of
slepes^. It seemed totally blind ; not having
the smallest mark of any eye or optic nerve.
Its head was broad, and quite flat, like that of

(3) Omelin considered it as an intermediate link between the moase
and the mole ; for although, like the mole, it burrows, its fbod is
eonfined entirely to substances which it finds upon the soil. See Joum.
deeSac.Voy. p. 151.

J2 KUBAN TAHTABT.

an otter ; its under jaw being armed with two
very formidable tusks : with these, when caught,
it gnashes against and grates its upper teeth.
It is to the highest degree fierce, and, for so
small an animal, remarkably intimidating; for
although it will not turn out of the way while
on its march, it bites and tears whatsoever it
encounters. It is of a pale ash colour ; and,
with the exception of the head, much like the
common mole.

CMruH' Passing the Ae, we entered the territory of
the Tchemomorski : proceeding about four miles
farther, we arrived at Cherubinovskoy^ a wretched
village, built of reeds, but containing two or
three paltry shops. As we journeyed from this
place, the post-houses were constructed accord-
ing to the description given in the beginning of
this Chapter^ They were totally destitute of
any security from the weather, consisting only
of a few bundles of reeds and flags, loosely
put together, and liable to be scattered by the
slightest wind. The wonder is, how cattle can
possibly be preserved in such places during
the winter season, which is sometimes extremely
severe. We observed several sledges for tra-

(1) See the Vigitette.

COSSACKS OF THB BLACK SEA. 13

veffing over the snow : in the«. some of the chap.
persons waiting to supply the relays had ^oor
structed their beds.

On the sixth of July^ we observed nothing
but continual steppes, covered with beautiful and
inKuriant flowers. Among the tallest and most
sbewy plants appeared the dark blue blossoms p^^^-
of the Viper^s Bughss, or Echium altissimum of
Jcu^iuj and Italicum of JLinntsus. The Staiice
trygondidesy not known to LinntBtii^ grew in
abundance ; it is common over all Kuban Tak-
tary : also those beautiful plants, Iris desertorum
and Dianthus Carthusianarum. We were of course
busied in making additions to our herbary : and
the Note subjoined will enumerate the principal
part of our acquisition*. Mosquitoes began to
be numerous, and were very troublesome. The
heat at the same time was great ; the mercury
remaining as high as 90^ of Fahrenheit^ when the

(3) A new species of Calendula : also of Ranuneului, and Oalega —
Crambe Taktarica — CeHntke mmor-^Atitirrhiman getMiftfiimm —
AwnmnU miilrfoliata — LatkyruM tuberatU9 — Symphytum comolidum —
Saivia nemorosa — Galium rubididu — Phlomis tuberosa — Xeranthemum
ammum. In great abundance — NiyeUa Damaseena-^Agtragahu tmui'
JifHuM. Otfaerty well known in Britain, were, Lesser Meadow Rue,
TkoHetrum minui — Cockle, Agrottemma Oithago—TBUBy, Tanaee-
htm vuigare — Great Spearwort, Hammeii/tM Xtn^ua— Hound's-
tiMgtie, Cymfgto$ntm cj^^Seifiiiie— Hare's-ibot Trefoil, ly^lhkm arvente,
Tr^olium m/elUotu* luiea.

14 KUBAN TAHTABT.

CRAP, thermometer was placed, with the greatest
v^N^w caution, in the shade.

Bate of Throughout all this part of Kuban Tahtaryj

*«""^- a traveUer with a light carriage may proceed at
the rate of one hundred and thirty English miles
in a day. With our hurthened vehicle, notwith-
standing the numerous delays occasioned by
search for plants and animals, we performed
seventy miles in the course of twelve hours.
We passed several lakes: one of these, from
its remarkable appellation, deserves notice : it
was called Bet/s JEau, " Prince's Water ;*' eau
being pronounced exactly as by the French,
and signifying the same thing. Bey is a very
common Oriental word for a Prince, A village
near this lake was called Bet^s eau hov. We
noticed also some corn-mills, worked by under-
shot wheels; and antient Tumuli^ as usual, in
the perspective. Among the birds, swallows
appeared the most numerous. One vast plain
was entirely covered by swarms of these birds,
evidently assembling in preparation for a mi-
gratory flight to some other country. Wild
swans, geese, and -'ducks, were in great num-
bers. But the most frequent objects were, as
Tumuu. usual, the Tumuli. From their great number,
it might be supposed that they were occasionally
raised as marks of guidance across these im-

COSSACKS OF THE BLACK SEA. 25

mense plains during winter, when the ground is chap.
covered with snow : but when any of them have ^^v^^
been opened, the appearance of a sepulchre
seems to leave the question of their origin
beyond dispute ; and the traveller is left to
wonder, and perplex himself in conjecture,
concerning the population requisite for raising
such numerous vestiges of interment, and for
supplying the bodies they served to contain.
Their number greatly increased as we ap-
proached the Kuban. In the last stage, before
we reached this river, we counted ninety-one
of these Tumuli^ all at once in view.

The whole of the soil in this part of the
Tchemomorski territory is covered with fine pas-
ture herbage, and suppUes hay for all their
cavalry and cattle\ In our route, we frequently stnggien
encountered parties returning from the war, who Army.
had been dismissed to their respective homes,
or had thought proper to remove themselves.
These were all armed similarly to our escort ;

" (1) The cattle here are larger and finer than any-where in Rnasia.
There are no sheep, not eren of the Asiatic breed. The Cofsack hones
are what woold be called, in England, good galloways. Their masters
▼aont rery much their speed and hardiness. According to them, a
moderately good horse will go sixty versts or forty miles at full speed,
withoot stopping. They are seldom handsome." Heb€r'» MS. JoumaL

16 KUBAM TAHTARY.

CHAP, and, according to the opinion of the Commandant
v^v^^ of the old mud fortress upon the Ae, when we
entered their territory, were as much to he
dreaded as the Circassians themselves. They
passed us however very respectfully, prohahly
owing to our number, which had been now
augmented from twelve to twenty persons.
Those whom we found in the different post-
houses seemed to be as wild as American
savages ; having their bodies quite naked, ex-
cepting a sheep's skin cast across their shoul-
ders, with the wool on the outside. They
usually appeared lying among the grass ; while
the horses for the post were grazing around
them.

view of the As wc drcw near to the Kuban, we had

Caueanan

^oilmtflis^ reached the last post-house before arriving at
EiLATEuiNEDARA, wheu the view of the Caucasian,
mountains opened before us, extending, in a
craggy and mountainous ridge, from east to
west; but the appearance of the Caiuuisian
barrier is inferior to the Alpine in grandeur,
whatever may be their relative altitude^ Mar-
shal ffiberstein^ a celebrated Russian botanist

(1) The author has been since infonned, that the ridge here aUoded
to if not the highest part of the Ganeomaii chain of mountains.

COSSACKS OF THB BLACK SEA.

and traveller, afterwards informed me, that he chap.
considered Mount Choi in Caucasus to be higher
than Mont Blanc : it is visible at the immense
distance of two hundred miles. The snowy
summits of the Alps are often seen for a day's
journey before reaching them, glittering above
the line of clouds collected near the bases;
especially by a traveller who approaches the
llrol from the plains of Suahta^ where they seem
to rise up all at once, like a walL To us, indeed,
who had travelled so long in the dreary flats of
Russia^ the Cauctman mountains were a new and
a very pleasing sight Our eyes had been
wearied with the monophany of perpetual plains :
and even the serene skies, to which we had been
accustomed, were gladly exchanged for the
refreshing winds of the hills, the frequent
showers, and the rolling clouds, which cha-
racterize mountain scenery. Trees also began
to appear ; the banks of the Kuban being covered
with woods. The oak, so long a stranger, reared
once more his venerable head ; and the willow,
and the bramble, and wild raspberries, and
blooming shrubs, and thick underwood, covered
the ground, affording retreat to abundance of
wild-boars and deer. The last are often taken
young, and kept as domestic aninuds in the
cottages of the country.

IS KUBAN TAHTART.

Ekaterinedara, or Catherines Gifly the
metropolis of the Tchemomarski Cossacks^ makes
SeiiS^ a very extraordinary appearance. It has no
mmanu. resemhlance to a town ; hut it is rather a grove
or forest of oaks, in which a numher of straggling
cottages, widely separated, are concealed, not
only from all general observation, but even from
the view of each other. The inhabitants have
cut down many of the trees, and cleared the
land as much as possible; but the streets (if
they may be called streets), and the spaces
between the houses, are covered with dwarf
oaks, and thick branches yet sprouting from
roots left in the earth. The antiquity of the
Tumuli covering all this country may in some
degree be proved even by the appearance of
the oaks growing upon them. We saw some
trees, perhaps as old as any in the world, so
situate. The inhabitants had excavated some
of the Tumulty to form cellars for their ice and
wine : and, in so doing, they had found several
terra-cotta vases, deposited with the skeletons
which those sepulchres contained : unfortu-
nately, they had destroyed every thing thus
discovered. The air in this metropolitan forest
is pestiferous, and the water of the place very
unwholesome. Fevers, similar to those pre-
vailing near the Pomptine Marshes, in the Gulph
of Salemum^ and upon the coast of Baia in Italy ^

C09SACKS OF THE BLACK SEA. JQ

afflict those who reside here. In the environs, chap.
however, the air is better. Perhaps, when the
ground is cleared, so as to admit of a free
ci dilation, and thoroughly cultivated by the
increase of gardens, the health of the inhabitants
will be less injured ; but, owing to its damp
situation, and to the vicinity of extensive
marshes on the Circassian side of the Kubatij
Ekaterinedara is never likely to become a
desirable place of residence. The very founda-
tion of the city took place only eight years
previous to our arrival ; so that it still possessed
all the appearance of a colony newly transported
to the wildernesses of America^ maintaining a
stru^le with inhospitable natives, impenetrable
woods, and an unwholesome climate. The
houses of the inhabitants were neater than our
best English cottages. Each owner had before
his door a large area, to which an avenue of
the finest oaks conducted ; also an adjoining
garden, containing vines, water-melons, and
cucumbers. The sunflower flourishes here
without cultivation. Many plants, found only
in our greenhouses, are the ordinary weeds
of the plain. The climate, from a proximity
to the mountains, is humid and cloudy ; and
it is often agitated by violent winds, accom-
panied with thunder, and with sudden tem-
pestuous rain.

VOL. II. c

20 KUBAN TAHTARY.

CHAP. In their new settlement, the Tchemomorshi
still exhibit the mode of life common to them

^aMCTs before their migration from the Dnieper. By
pie. this means, the CircctssianSj and even those of the

Russians who live among them or near them,
are instructed in many arts of domestic comfort
and cleanliness. Celebrated as they justly are
for their skill in horsemanship, they yet acknow-
ledge themselves inferior in this respect to the
Ciraissians ; whose light bodies, lightly accoutred,
upon the fleetest horses in the world, outstrip
them in the chace. Yet it is not perhaps possible
to behold a more striking figure than that of a
TchemomorsJd Cossack mounted and equipped for
war. It is then only he may be said to exist,
and in his native element ; brandishing his long
lance in the air, bending, turning, or halting
suddenly when in full speed, with so much
graceful attitude, and such natural dignity,
that the horse and the rider seem to be as
one animal.

Drees and The rcius of government are entirely in the
Appear- hands of the Ataman and his o£Bicers, who wear
the most theatrical and splendid habits known
to any people in the world. Their breasts are
covered with chains of gold and gold lace.
Their sabre is Turkish; their boots, of red or
yellow coloured leather; their cap, of black

COSSACKS OF THE BLACK SEA. g]

velvet, ornamented with lace and silver chains, chap.
or fine black Tahtarian wool, taken firom lambs >^\'^^
in an embryo state. They bind their waist
with silken sashes, sustaining pistols of the
most costly workmanship. A small whip, with
a short leathern thong, is attached to their little
finger. The lower extremity of their lance is
supported by the right foot; and from the
powder flask, pendent in front, are suspended
silver coins and other trinkets.

On the evening of our arrival, the Ataman vuitfrom
waited upon us with a party of o£Bicers. One Ataman.
of the best houses in the place had been pre-
viously allotted to our use : this they desired
us to consider as our own, and declared them-
selves ready to render us any service in their
power. The Ataman then informed us, that the
Pasha ofAnapaj with several of the Princes of
Ctrecusioj had crossed the Kuban, and pitched
their tents upon the northern side of the
river, suing for peace with the Tchemomorski ;
that a considerable part of the Cossack army
would march to give them a meeting in the
morning, and adjust the preliminaries ; and,
as the ceremony might amuse us, he very
kindly offered to include us among the per-
sons of his suite. To this proposal we readily
assented.

c 2

Q2 COSSACKS OF THE BLACK S£A.

The history of the war in which they had
heen so recently engaged is as follows. The

thTwajin Circassians, in their nocturnal incursions, had
i^treasaa. f^^ ^^iq j^^j. j^^^g ycars Committed many depre-
dations upon the territory of the Tchemomarski ;
not only stealing their cattle, but sometimes
bearing off the inhabitants. The Tchemomarski
applied to the Emperor for permission to punish
these marauders, and also for a reinforcement.
General Drascavitz was accordingly sent, with
a party of troops and some artillery, into Kuban
Tahtary. At five o clock on the morning of
Friday June the 20th, the army, consisting of
four thousand five hundred men, including two
regiments of regulars, some pieces of artillery,
and the chief part of the Cossack army stationed
in and near Ekaterinedaraj began to advance,
SeffSml ^y crossing the river. This undertaking was
su£Biciently arduous to have daunted better-
disciplined troops. The Kuban is broad and very
rapid. A few canoes, with one flat-bottomed
barge, were all the transports provided for this
purpose. General Drascavitz assured us he had
never seen any thing to equal the spirit and .
alacrity of the Cossack cavalry, who led the way,
and the zeal manifested when they received the
order to march. They plunged on horseback
into the torrent, and swam to the opposite shore.
The passage viras begun, as we have stated, at

WAR IN CIRCASSIA. 23

five in the morning; and by four o'clock in the chap.
afternoon the whole army had crossed the river : v#^v^w
this, considering the want of proper boats and
of other conveniences, and the great rapidity of
the current, is wonderful. By nine o'clock in the
same evening the attack commenced. A small
party, consisting of only eight of the Circassian
advanced guard, were surprised in the very
onset : of these, two were taken, and the others
fled to give the alarm. The first effective blow
was however struck by the Circassians^ who after-
wards attacked the advanced guard of the Cossack
cavalry, taking eleven of the Cossack horses
and a few prisoners. General Drascovitz then
detached a body of Cossacks to reconnoitre, who
found the Circassians in possession of a strong
hold, and prepared for attack. These gave the
Cossacks a very warm reception ; but the General,
perceiving it, caused some pieces of artillery to
bear upon his opponents. The noise of cannon
had never before been heard in Circassia : the
rocks of Caucasus repeated the dreadful uproar
of the guns ; and the natives, at the very sound,
fled in all directions. The Russian army then Advance of
rapidly advancing, burned and destroyed eight Army.
villages, took eight thousand head of cattle,
besides a quantity of arms and other valuables.
The nmnber of the dead on the side of the Cir-
cassians amounted in one village to thirty-seven.

24 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

and nearly an equal slaughter . took place
in all the others. The Russians lost only ten
Cassacksy who were made prisoners ; hut had not
a man killed, and very few wounded. The
number of Circassian prisoners was not great ;
so desperate was their valour, that they pre-
ferred being cut to pieces, rather than surrender.
The first overtures for peace ^ were made by
deputies from the Circassiansj who demanded
the cause of the war. The answer given by
the Cossacks is curious, as it serves to call to
mind similar laconic expressions made in antient
times. ^* You have played your gamholsy^ said
they, '^ in owr territory ^ these three years: we
therefore come for a Utile sport in yours^ This
answer bemg carried to the princes of the coun-
try, they came in great numbers to sue the Cos-
sacks for quarter and peace. In aid of this
request, a scarcity of bread prevailed at that time
among the allied forces of Hussions and Cossacks;
and the water of the country being bad, they
retreated gradually across the Kuban: here
Arrival of they wcro met by the Pasha o{ Anapa, coming

the Pasha , . ^ ^« i -i

ofAfuqHi. With a great retmue and much ceremony, m
the name of the Turkish Government, to inter-
cede for the Circassians ; and offering himself
at the same time, as a hostage for the security
of their future conduct. To strengthen these
assurances, he accompanied tlie Cossacks and

TO THB FRONTIER OP CIRCASSIA. 25

Hussians across the Kubauy and entered Ekat£- chap.
RiNEDARA, but was not permitted to remain
there on account of the quarantine. He was
suffered, however, to pitch his tent upon the
Cossack side of the Kuban, close to the river.
From thence he passed again into Circassia;
and assembling the princes of the country,
made them take a solemn oath of peace and
friendship with the TchemomorsAi : but the
latter, not being satisfied with a report of these
proceedings, insisted that the same oath should
be publickly repeated upon their side of the
river. It was for this purpose that the Pasha
of Anapa had again returned, bringing with him
the most powerful of the Circassian princes,
who now waited upon the northern bank of
the Kvhan, to proceed in the required cere-
mony.

At nine o'clock on the following morning, the
8th of July^ General Drascovitz sent his drosky^,
escorted by a party of armed Cossacks and an
officer, to state that the Ataman was waiting for
us to join his suite in the procession to the
Pasha of Anapa^s tent by the Kuban ; and that
many of the princes of Circassia were there,

(1) A carriage peculiar to Russia, Sec the Vignette to the Eighth
Chapter of Vol. I.

<26 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTART,

CHAP, ready to take the oath of peace. We drove to
head-quarters, and arrived as the grand caval-
cade, consistmg of the Ataman with a numerous
escort of Cossack officers, and delegates from
all the troops of the Cossack army, were pro-
ceeding to the river side, distant only half a mile
from the town. We had never seen a more
striking spectacle. The dresses worn hy the
officers were more beautiful than the most mag-
nificent theatres ever exhibited, displaying every
variety of colour and of ornament ; while their
high-bred horses, glittermg in embroidered
housings, and prancing with flowing manes
and tails, seemed conscious of the warlike dig-
nity of their riders. Several Cossacks darted by
us, upon the fleetest coursers, to join the van
of the calvacade. In front rode the Ataman^
bareheaded, in a habit of blue velvet, with
sleeves and trowsers of scarlet cloth, very richly
embroidered. From his shoulders fell loosely
a rich tunic, lined with blue silk, and fastened
back by gold buttons. His boots, like those of
all the other officers, were of red leather ; and
hy his side was suspended a broad and costly
sabre, in a sheath of red velvet, richly em-
bossed with gold, and studded with torquoises.
On each side of him rode a party of his prin-
cipal officers ; and behind him followed all the
flower of the Cossack army, in most sumptuous

TO THE FRONTIER OF CIRCAS81A. gy

dresses, curbing their foaming and neighing chap.

steeds. We were now, by the Ataman^s orders,
placed in the van of the procession ; and soon
arriving upon the high grounds forming the
northern bank of the Kuban^ beheld the encamp-
ment of the Turks and Circassians, upon a small
plain, close to the water's edge. The Pasha^
surrounded by his attendants, was seated in his
tent, smoking, with the awning drawn up on all
sides. He was attended by a Turkish courier
from the PortCy by his own dragoman or inter-
preter, and by several of the most powerful
Circassian princes, dressed in the savage and
extraordinary habits worn by the different tribes
of Caucasus : some of which will be hereafter
more particularly noticed. Upon the opposite
shore appeared a very considerable multitude
of Circassians^ collected either by curiosity, or
in the hope of commerce with the Cossacks,
when the terms of peace should be concluded.
The greater part of them remained at a distance
from the rest, exhibiting evident caution and
mistrust, as if uncertain what termination the
business of the day might have. As soon as
the Cossack cavalry made its appearance, the Ofr-
cassian deputies arose, and came to the entrance
of the Pashds tent, who was seen in front of
the party, bearing in his hand a small tuft
of camel's hair fastened to an ivory handle:

^ THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP, with this he was occupied in keeping off the
v^>v^/ mosquitoes. The Cossack army halted upon the
hrow of the hill ; and all the cavalry, heing dis-
mounted, were drawn up in two lines parallel
to the river: in front appeared the Cossack sol-
diers, standing hy their lances. The Ataman
and his principal officers rode down into the
plain before the tent: here, having alighted,
their horses were taken back, and they all
advanced, bareheaded, towards the Pasha. We
accompanied them; and bemg stationed by
the AtamaUf near to his person, understood, hj
means of our interpreter, all that passed upon
the occasion.

Ceremony The preliminaries were begun by an apology
ingthe from the Ataman for having kept the Pasha so
long waiting. "Your coming,*' replied the
Pasha^ " is for a good purpose, and therefore
may have demanded consideration : bad things
alone are rashly hurried over."

Ataman. **Have you explained to the CSr-
cassian princes that we are not satisfied with
oaths of peace made by them in their territory ?
We must bear testimony to their attestations
here, in our own land."

Pasha. ** I have made this known throughout
all the Caucasian line. Several of the most
powerful princes of the country are now present,

TO iHE rmovnsm of csacMsajL. 29

to answer far die rot of tliar oamMrpmm^
and far dBOMcha.^

Aiamam^ ^ Hai« dB dioK idio are not. yr^
acnt, as veil SB ibese tfadr depatacs* taken tlie
oath of peace €B dbe other side of tlie iiier r^

P^tkm. ^^Anofthcm. Unks I bad beat
pt'tiacnl i^on tlie oecadon nniBel^ and bad
actnaDjr witneseed it. I sroold not lentore to
be responable far tbeir peaoeable bdbanonr:
tbis I no«r pramise to beu"^

AiamoML, ** Tour Kirpflfnfr ^eaks of a re-
sporafailitj, perhaps modi greater than yam
imagine. Hitbato^ tfaor princes have paid no
reelect to the oUigation of an oath ; which Yob
been Tiolat^d as crfiten as it was made. How
manr bare engaged to be boond br the oath
now to be repeated ?^

'PosAft. '^Fifir: and of theee, the most pow-
erinl are the {ninces who have attended me
Hpuu this oocasHm."

Atammu ^ AH our Caaaci brethren^ whom
the Ciraumms hare made pnsonerE, most be
restored : in fiilore of this, the war will oer-
tainhr be renewed ; and in oomplianee with
demand, all our ]Hi£Ooers will be giTen mfS*

Some Other conTersalion past, v
were onable to orikcty finom tl
delireffy. As soon a» the |

30 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP, concluded, involving very little discussion, for
wv^ the Circassians seemed willing to accede to any
proposition made on the part of the Cossacks^
the Pasha took from his bosom a manuscript
written upon linen: the Cirtassian princes
severally laid their hands upon it, promising
to the Cossacks the imdisturbed possession of
all the country upon the northern side of the
Kuban. What the precise nature of the manu-
script was we could not learn : it was said to
contain certain passages of the Koran and other
sacred writings. The whole ceremony ended
by the Pacha's inscribing with a reed the names
of the parties concerned in this transaction.

Ctreiwriaii The extraordinary appearance of the Circassian
princes drew our attention entirely to them.
Their clothes were ragged : their necks and
legs quite bare. Only a few wore upon their
feet slippers of red leather. Their heads were
all shaven, and covered upon the crown with
small scull-caps, laced with silver\ In their

(1) The most antient covering of the head worn in Greece was
exactly of the same shape, resembling the scalps torn by Americam from
the prisoners they make in war. It is worn, beneath the turban, all
over the JEatt. The Cireasnant of rank wear it without any turban.
It is still worn, in the same manner, by many inhabitants of modem
Greece ; and its use in that country, long prior to its conquest by the
Turks, agrees with the opinion maintained by the author*8 Grand-
father, concerning the origin of the Oetic, Gothic, and Orecitm peo-
ple. See Connection of the Roman, Saxon, and JSnglith Coins, kc.

TO THE FRONTIER OF CIRCA8SIA.

belts they had large pistols. By their sides cha
were suspended a sabre and a knife. Ball
cartridges, sewed singly, were ranged in rows
upon their breasts. The sleeves of their
jackets being worn out at the elbows, there
appeared, through the holes, plates of silver or
of steel armour, inlaid. This armour was worn
next the skin, covering the arms, but concealed
by their clothes. A coat of mail protected also
the breast and the rest of the body. Some of
them wore a sort of iron shirt, made of twisted
mail, or rings so closely interwoven, and so
well adapted to the form, that every part of the
body, except the face, was covered. Pallas^ in
his " Travels through the South of Russta^'^ has
represented one of their princes on horseback,
covered by this kind of armour*. A bow and
quiver are fastened by straps around the hips.
We brought away one of their arrows : this
they said had actually traversed the body of
a Cosmck horse, and killed the animal upon the
spot. The Circassians use the bow with great
skill, never making random shots, but being
certain of their aim before they let the arrow
fly. The Mussian army very much dreaded
those destructive weapons ; as they are used

(2) See PaUa^s Travels iJtrough the Southern Prtmncet, &c. Vol. I.
p. 401. PI. 90.

32 THE KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP. 5y skilful marksmen, who, like riflemen,, station
themselves in trees, or among rocks, in the
passes of the mountains, to shoot the officers.

A circumstance not worth relating, if it did
not illustrate the manners and character of the
different people then assembled, afforded con-
siderable amusement to us, who were merely
spectators upon this occasion. When the
Pasha received the Ataman with his attendants,
he was evidently in a state of trepidation.
Seeing the high banks of the river covered with
armed men, and the lances of the Cossacks
ranged like a forest along the northern side of
the Kuban, he could not conceal his anxiety
and uneasiness. His own manners were re-
markably affable and polite ; but he viewed the
troops and officers of the Cossack army, by
whom he was surrounded, as a set of lawless
plunderers, for whose conduct there could be
no long security. Doubtless he had heard as
many tales of the barbarism of the Tchemomorski
as we had done before, and wished himself safe
again upon his own divan in Anapa. If we had
been filled with such idle fancies by the Russians
themselves, it is but reasonable to believe that
the Turks, who consider even the Russians as
barbarians, must necessarily esteem the Cossacks
as a set of ferocious banditti. The Reader may

TO THE FRONTIER OF CIRCA8SIA. 33

then imagine what the astonishment of the chap.
PcLsha was, when, heing induced hy curiosity
to ask the Ataman from what country we came,
he was informed we were English gentlemen,
travelling for amusement among the very people
whose appearance gave him so much uneasiness,
and whom nothing but the most urgent necessity
could have caused him to visit. He seemed to
regain all his composure by this intelligence,
speaking very highly of our countrymen, and
saying, that the obligations England had con-
fisrred upon Turkey would never be forgotten.
We took this opportunity to inquire respecting
the state of the countries bordering the south
coast of the Black Sea. He described them as
full of difficulty and danger for travellers;
that many districts were infested by merciless
robbers ; and that a journey to Constantinople by
land, from AnapHy would at least require three
months ; whereas by water, from the same
place, it might be accomplished in four or five
days. Indeed, the inhabitants of Taganrog
have performed the voyage within that period,
including the additional passage of the Sea of
Azof and the Straits of Toman.

As soon as the ceremony ended, the Pasha
embarked with his suite, in a canoe so narrow,
that two persons could not sit abreast. With

34 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP, more adventure than might have been expected
^^N^ in a Turky hampered as he was by his cumbrous
dress, he squatted upon some rushes in the
bottom of this vessel, and was soon paddled
into the middle of the rapid torrent. The
canoes upon the Kuban are all made of one
piece of wood, being merely the trunk of a
large tree scooped for the purpose. From the
numbers huddled with the PcLshaj we expected
every instant to see his canoe sink or upset, for
its edge was level with the water. It was out
of sight, however, in an instant, descending the
current with amazing velocity, and disappearing
b, the tun. of the river.

^^^^^ We then went to examine more minutely the
crowd of Circassians of a lower order, numbers
of whom were passing the Kuban in their canoes,
and assembling on the Russian side. They came
to exchange wood, honey, and weapons, for
salt, according to their usual practice in times
of peace. Here we saw some of the wildest
mountaineers of Caucasus, all of whom were
completely armed, and all robbers by profes-
sion. The descriptions given of the natives in
the South Seas do not represent human nature
in a more savage state than its condition ex-
hibits among the Circassians. Instructed from
their infancy to consider war and plunder not

TO THE FRONTIER OF CIRCA88IA. 55

coily as a necessary, but as an honourable occu-
pation, they bear in their countenances the most
striking expressions of ferocious valour, and of
duplicity. If, while a Circassian is standing
behind you, a sudden turn of your head betrays
to you his features, his brow appears menacing,
and he ^eems to meditate some desperate act;
but the instant he perceives that he is observed,
his countenance relaxes into a deceitful smile,
and he assumes the most obsequious and sub-
missive attitude imaginable. Their bodies,
especially their legs, feet, and arms, are almost
naked. They wear no shirt, and only a pair of
ooarse ragged drawers, reaching a little below
the knee ; but upon their shoulders, even during
the greatest heat of summer, they carry a thick
and heavy doak of felt, or the hide of a goat
with the hair on the outside, reaching below
the waist Beneath this coarse mantle appears
a sabre, a bow and quiver, a musket, and other
weapcms. Both the peasants and the princes
shave their heads, and cover them with the
sort of scull-cap which was before mentioned,
and which the Turks call Fez. Difference of
Tank, indeed, seems to cause little distinction
of dress among them, except that the peasant
ferther covers his head and shoulders with a
laige cowL Beauty of features and of form,
for which the Circassians have so long been

VOL* II. D

3g THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP, celebrated, is certainly prevalent among them.
Their noses are aquiline, their eye-brows arched
and regular, their mouth small, their teeth
remarkably white, and their ears not so large
nor so prominent as those of Tahtars ; although,
from wearing the head shaven, they appear to
disadvantage, according to our European notions
of beauty. They are well-shaped, and very
active ; being generally of the middle size,
seldom exceeding five feet eight or nine inches.
Their women are the most beautiful perhaps in
the world ; of enchanting perfection of features
and very delicate complexion. The females
that we saw were all of them the accidental
captives of war, who had been carried off,
together with their families; they were how*
ever remarkably handsome. Many of them,
although suffering from ill health, from privation
of .every kind, and from sorrow, and being
exhibited under every possible circumstance
of disadvantage, had yet a very interesting
appearance. Their hair was, generally dark or
light brown, in some instances approaching to
black. Their eyes had a singular degree of
animation, which is very characteristical of the
Circassian people ; this, in some of the men, gives
to them an expression of ferocity. The fimest
paintings of the best masters, representing a
Hector or a ffelen^ do not display greater beauty

TO THB FRONTIER OF CTRCA8S1A. 37

than we beheld even in the prison at Ekatenne- chap.
dara ; where the wounded Circassians, male and
female, loaded with fetters^ and huddled to-
gether, were pining in grief and sickness.

The Circassians being collected in much
greater number on the Caucasian side of the
Kuban, we applied to the Commander-in-chief
for permission to pass over into their territory.
This was obtained with great difficulty ; and the
Ataman, accompanied by several armed Cossacks,
was ordered to attend us. We crossed the river
in canoes ; and, arriving on the Circassian side,
beheld the: natives, who had been assembled
from all parts of the country, gathered into
groupes along the shore. Several of them,
having a most savage aspect, were collected
together about two hundred yards from the
spot where we landed. Perceiving that the
Ataman avoided going towards them, we begged
that he would allow us that privilege. ** If it
be your desire," said he, taking his sabre from
its scabbard, ^^ you shall not feel disappoint-
ment upon my account ; but you little know
what sort of people Circassians are: They pay
no respect to treaties, nor even to their own
princes, when they see an opportunity of
plunder ; and they are likely to do some of us
injury before we return." Our curiosity, however,

30 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTART,

CHAP, got the better of all fear, and we followed
the AtamarCs reluctant steps to the place where
they were assembled. Seemg us advance, they
hastily snatched up their arms (which they had
placed against the trees and upon the ground),
and received us with an air of evident defiance.
We endeavoured to convince them that our
views were pacific ; but matters grew more
and more menacing, as they began talking loud
and with great rapidity. No one of our party
understood what they said ; and the Ataman* s
uneasiness considerably increasing, we made
signs for the canoes to draw near the shore,
and effected our retreat. Thinking to shew
fhem some mark of our respect, and of our
friendly intentions, we took off our hats, and
bowed to them as we retired. The effect was
highly amusing : they all roared with loud and
savage laughter, and mocking our manner of
making obeisance, seemed to invite us to a
repetition of the ceremony ; and as often as we
renewed it, they set up fresh peals of laughter.
The Cossack officers, who accompanied us upon
this occasion, told us that the Circassians who
lurk in the immediate vicinity of the Kuban are
a tribe as wild and as lawless as any in the wbofe
district of Caucasus ; that their principal object
is, to seize upon men, and to carry them off,
for the purpose of selling them as slaves in

TO THB FROlfTIER OF CIKOISSU. 39

The cannon upon the heights of Ekate- ^^J-^^-
rinedara at this time conunanded the whole
marshy territory on the Grcasdan side ; yet it
was impossible to venture, even a few hundred
yards, in search of plants, owing to the danger
that -might be apprehended from numbers
skulking in ambush among the woods near
the river. The hasty survey we had made
disclosed to us a plain covered with wild
raspberry-trees, blackberry bushes, and a few
large willows by the water's edge. Farther,
towards the south, appeared woods of consi-
derable extent, fuD of the finest oaks. Beyond
these woods appeared the chain of Caucasian
mountains, and territories which had been the
theatre of war. The mountains rose like the
Alpine barrier. Some of them seemed to be
very lofty ; and their sides retained patches of
snow toward the middle of July ; but, upon the
whole, they seemed less lofty than the Alps.
The passes through Caucasus must be difficult
and intricate, as the mountains stand close to
each other, and their summits are rugged and ir-
regular. Those nearest to Ehaterinedara were not
less than twenty-six English miles distant, and
yet they appeared very visible to the naked eye.

When we returned to the Russian side, the
drcassians who had crossed the river were

40 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP, dancing and rejoicing on account of the peace.
One of their vagrant musicians, exercising a
profession much esteemed hj all nations in the
infancy of society, and particularly among the
tribes who inhabit Caucasus, performed upon a
silver flute called Candl. It was about two
feet in length, and had only three finger-holes
toward the lower extremity of the tube. The
mode of blowing this instrument is as remark-
able as the sound it produced. A small stick
is placed in the upper end of a flute open
at either extremity ; which, being drawn out to
the length of an inch, is pressed by the per-
former against the roof of his mouth. It is very
difficult to conceive how any tones can be pro-
duced in this manner, as the performer's mouth
is kept open the whole time, and he accom-
panies the notes with his own voice. By the
violent straining of every muscle in his counte-
nance, the performance seemed to be a work
of great difficulty and labour; the sounds all
the while resembling the droning noise of a
bagpipe. We wished to purchase the instru-
ment with a quantity of salt, the only money
they receive in payment ; but its owner, deriving
his livelihood, and consequence among his
countrymen, entirely from his flute, would not
consent to sell it. ' The Circassians know nothing
of the value of coins, using them only to adorn

TO THE FRONTIER OF CIRCASSIA. 4J

their persons ; and even for this purpose they chap.
did not seem desirous to possess the few silver s^-v-w
pieces we offered to them. It is evident that their
favourite musical instrument, the Camilj was not
always of metal ; for upon the silver tube which
I have described, the natural joints seen upon
canes and reeds in the rivers and marshes of
the country had been imitated by the maker.

Their dances do not resemble those of any Dances of

the CircaS'

other nation. Something perhaps nearly similar ^.
may have been described as practised by the
inhabitants of the South-Sea Islands. Ten, fifteen,
or 'twenty persons, all standing in a line, and
holding by each other's arms, begin lolling from
right to left, lifting up their feet as high as
possible, to the measure of the tune, and only
interrupting the uniformity of their motion by
sudden squeaks and exclamations. Nothing
could seem more uneasy than the situation of the
performers in the middle of the row ; but even
these, squeezed as they were from one side to
the other, testified their joy in the same manner.
After some time, there was a pause ; when a
single dancer, starting from the rest, pranced
about in the most ludicrous manner, exhibiting
only two steps that could be assimilated to the
movements of a dance. Each of these may be
noticed, not only in our English hornpipe, but in

4S THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP, all the dances of northern nations. The first

^^^^^^ consisted in hopping upon one foot, and in
touching the ground with the heel and toe of
the other alternately. The second, in hopping
on one foot, and thrusting the other before it,
so as to imitate the bounding of a stag : firom
this animal the motion was originally borrowed,
as it actually bears its name among the wild
Irish at this day. A due attention to national
dances firequently enables us to ascertain the
progress made by any people towards refine-
ment. The exercise itself is as antient as the
human race ; and, however variously modified,
the popular dances peculiar to ages the most
remote, and to countries the most widely separ
rated, may all be deduced from one common
origin, having reference to the intercourse of the
sexes ; and therefore more or less equivocal, in
proportion as the state of society has been more
or less affected by the progress of civilization\

In difierent parts of the great chain of

S^ mountains bearing the general appellation of

Caucasus, the languages are as various as the

(1) An inquiry into the anti<{ttity and origin of NatUmdl Jkmeeg,
as connected with the history of mankind, would form a very enrioiBS
subject of discussion. The author once collected materials tor that
purpose, but it would require more leisure than is now granted to
him to prepare them for the Public.

TO THB FRONTIER OF CIRCA8SIA. 4S

principalities. Few of the present inhabitants ^hap.
of Kuban Tahtary are able to converse with any
of the Circassian tribes. Those whom we saw
near the river spoke a dialect so harsh and
guttural, that it was by no means pleasing to
the ear. Pallas says it is probable - that the
Circassian bears no affinity to any other lan-
guage; and that, according to report, their
Princes and Usdens speak a peculiar dialect,
unknown to the common people, and chiefly
used in predatory excursions'. Their mode oi
life is that of professional robbers. It might
have been foretold of the Circassiany as of
Ishmael*j ** He will be a wild man ; his hand

WILL BE AGAINST EVERT HAN, AND EVERY MAN's

hand against him." Those who inhabit the
passes of the mountains, and are not occupied
in any agricultural employment, depend solely
upon plunder for their subsistence. The petty
princes are continually at war with each other :
every one plunders his neighbour. The inha-
bitants of the plains go completely armed to the
labours of the field. The crops are also guarded
by armed men. No Circassian poet can there-
fore celebrate the peaceful occupation of the

(S) Pattiu^§ "nrayeb. throngli the Soathern ProTinoes, &e. toI. I.
p. 408.
(9) Geo. zirL 12.

44 THROUGir KUBAN TAHTART,

CHAP, plough, since with them it is a warlike Bmploy-
v^^^v^^ ment The sower scattering seed, or the reaper
who gathers the sheaves, is constantly liahle to
an assault; and the implements of husbandry
are not more essential to the harvest, than the
carabine,' the pistol, and the sabred

lesoi. Of all the Circassian tribes, the Lesgi, inha-

biting the mountains of Daghestan^ ranging
nearly parallel to the Western coast of the
Caspian^ bear the worst reputation. Their y^y
name excites terror among the neighbouring
principaUties, and it is used as a term of reproach
by many of the natives of Caucasus. Different
reports are naturally propagated concerning
a people so little known as the Circassians in ge-
neral; and perhaps half the stories concerning
the Lesgi are without foundation in truth. All
the inhabitants of Caucasus are described by their
enemies as notorious for duplicity, and for their
frequent breach of faith ; and it is through the
medium of such representation alone that we
derive any notion of their character. But, placing
ourselves among them, and viewing, as they
must do, the more polished nations around th^si,
who seek only to enslave and to betray them.

(I) The same remark is applicable almoet all over the TurkUh
empire.

TO THB FRONTIBR OF CIRCASSIA.

we cannot wonder at their conduct towards a chap.
people whom they consider as tyrants and ^^^
infidfib. Examples of heroism may he observed
among them, which would have dignified the
character of the Romans in the most virtuous
periods of then- history. Among the prisoners
in the Cossaci army, we saw some of the Circas-
sians who had performed feats of valour, perhaps
unparalleled. The Commander-in-chief, General
Drctscovitz^ maintained, that in all the campaigns
he had served, whether against Turks or the
more disciplined armies of Europe, he had never
witnessed greater instances of bravery than he
had seen among the Circtusians. The troops
of other nations when surrounded by superior
numbers, readily yield themselves prisoners of
war : but the Cfircassian^ while a spark of life
remains, will continue to combat, even with a
multitude of enemies. We saw a Circassian Remark-
chief in the prison at JEkaterinedara^ about thirty- stance of
five years of age, who had received fifteen aCimif-
desperate wounds before he fell and was made '^^'
prisoner, haviog fainted from loss of blood. This
account was given to us by his bitterest enemies,
and may therefore surely be trusted. He was
first attacked by three of the Cossack cavalry.
It was their object to take him alive, if possible,
on account of his high rank, and the consideration
in which he was held by his own countrymen.

46 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTABT,

CHAP. Every endeavour was therefore used to attack
>^v^ him in such a manner as not to endanger his life.
This intention was soon perceived by the Grca^-
sian, who determined not to surrender. With
his single sabre, he shivered their three lances
at the first onset, and afterwards wounded two
of the three assailants. At length, surrounded by
others who came to their assistance, he fell,
covered with wounds in the midst of his enemies,
fighting to the last moment. We visited him in
his prison, where he lay stretched upon a plank,
bearing the anguish of his terrible wounds with-
out a groan. They had recently extracted the
iron point of a lance from his side. A young
Circassian girl was employed in driving flies fi:t>m
his face with a green bow. All our expressions
of concern and regard were lost upon him : we
offered him money, but he refiised to accept of
it, handing it to his fellow-prisoners as if totaUy
ignorant of its use.

oreoMiian ^ the samc place of confinement stood a Or-
^**™^* cassian female, about twenty years of age, with
fine light brown hair, extremely beautiful, bat
pale, and hardly able to support herself through
grief and weakness. The Cossack officers stated,
that when they captured this woman she was in
excellent health ; but that ever since, owing to
her separation from her husband, she had refused

TO THB FRONTIBR OF CIRCA8STA.

all ofier of food ; and, as she pined daily, they chap.
feared she would die. It may be supposed we
spared no entreaty with the Commander-in-chief
for the release of these prisoners. Before the
treaty of peace they had been offered to the
highest bidder, the women selling generally from
twenty-five to thirty roubles apiece ; somewhat
less than the price of a horse. But we were
told it was now too late, as they were included
in the list for exchange, and must therefore
remain until the Cossacks^ who were prisoners in
CtrcasdOf were deliyered up. The poor woman
in all probability did not live to see her husband
or her country again.

Another Circassian female, fourteen years of
age, who was also in confinement, hearing of the
intended exchange of prisoners, expressed her
wishes to remain where she was. Conscious of
her great beauty, she feared her parents would
sell her, . according to the custom of the country,
and that she might fell to the lot of masters less
humane than the Cossacks. The Circassians fre-
quently sell their children to strangers, parti-
cularly to Persians and Turks. Their princes
supply the TurUsh seraglios with the most
beantifrd of the prisoners of both sexes captured
in war.

48 THROUGH KUBAN TAHTARY,

CHAP. In their commerce with the Tckemomorski
s^^v^^w Cossacks^ the Circassians bring considerable quan-
withThT* tities of wood ; also the delicious honey of the
^^mT momitains, sewed up in goat-skins with the hair
on the outside. These articles they exchange
for salt, a commodity found in the neighbouring
lakes, and of a very excellent quality. Salt is
more precious than any other kind of wealth to
the Circassians : it constitutes the most acceptable
present it is possible to offer them. They weave
mats of very great beauty: these find a ready
market in Turkey and in Russia. They are also
ingenious in the art of working silver and other
metals, and in the fabrication of guns, pistols,
and sabres. We suspected that some weapons
offered for sale had been procured from SPurkej/^
^ in exchange for slaves. Their bows and arrows
are made with inimitable skill : the arrows being
tipped with iron, and otherwise exquisitely
wrought, are considered by Cossacks and by
Russians as inflicting deadly wounds.

skui in One of the most important accoomplishments

manship. the inhabitants of these countries can acquire, is
that of horsemanship \ and in this the CtrcasmoMs
are superior to the Cossacks^ who are.nevertheleas
justly esteemed the best riders known to JBura-
peon nations. A Cossack may be said to live but

TO THE FRONTIER OF CIRCASStA. 4g

upon his horse ; and the loss of a favourite stc^ chap.
is the greatest family misfortune he can sustain. v,xv^/
The poorer sort of Cossacks dwell beneath the
same roof with their horses, lie down with them
at night, and make them their constant com-
panions. The horses of Circassia are of a nobler
race than those of the Cossacks: they are of the
Arab kind, exceedingly high bred, light, and
smalL The Cossack generally acknowledges his
inability to overtake a Circassian in pursuit.

The brother of Mr. Kotxilensky of Taganrog j by sute of
cultivating the friendship of one of the Circassian \n cau-

CASUS

Princes, passed over the mountainous ridge of
Caucasus in perfect safety and protection.
According to his account, a stranger, who has
voluntarily confided in the honour of a Circassian,
is considered a sacred trust, even by the very
robbers who would cross the Kuban to carry him
off and sell him as a slave, if they chanced to find
him, in their predatory excursions, out of their
own dominions. Since this account was written,
one of our countrymen, Mr. Mackenzie^ passed
the defile of Caucasus, previous to a campaign
in which he served with the Russian army in
Perda. His escort consisted of an hundred
infiEmtry and fifty Cossacks, with a piece of artil-
lery. During thirteen days spent in the passage.

50 FRONTIER OP CIRCA88IA.

the troops were under the necessity of main-
taining a most vigilant watch, and their rear was
frequently harassed by hovering hordes of Circas-
sians. The result of his observations tends only to
dispute the accuracy of those of Mr* Kavalensky.
According to Mr. Mackenzie's opinion, no reliance
whatsoever can be placed upon the supposed
honour or the promises of a people so treacherous
and barbarous as are the tribes inhabiting this
chain of mountains.

>«4^g»-'*''*$? ■

CHAP. II.

Quarantine — Second Excursion into Circassia —
Departure from Ekaterinedara — Produce of the
Uand — IHvision of the River — Mosquitoes —
General Appearance o/" /Ac Circassian Territory
— Watch-Towers — Cimmerian Bosporus —
Temrook — Text of Strabo and Pliny reconciled
— Portress and Mmns— Sienna — Remarkable
Tomb — Antiquity of Arckes — MUeaan Gold
Bracelet — Origin of Temples — Ceope — Por-
tress of Tamaa — Taman — Rttins o/" Phanagoria
— Tmutaracan — AmpJutheatre — Other Remains
— Prekla Volcano — InacripUons at Taman.

1m the commerce carried on between the
Grcasnans and the TchemomorsH, a sort of qua- •.
rantine is observed, trivial in its nature, and ^
negligently guarded. The exchange of com,
htmej, mats, wood, and arms, for the salt of

52 FROM THE CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP, the Cossacks, is transacted without contract ;
II.

N^v^/ the wares of the Circassians being placed on the
ground where they find the salt ready stationed
for barter. But, owing to the very great prox-
imity of the parties during all this intercourse,
and to the danger of communicating infection
by handling the different articles for sale while
they are bartering, the plague, if it existed in
Circassian might very readily be communicated
to the Tchernomorsfd. It is true, that, except
at Ekaterinedara^ they seldom cross the river to
each other's territory, during the profoundest
peace; for so great is their mutual jealousy
and their hatred of each other, that quarrels
and skirmishes would be the inevitable conse-
quence of more general communication. Whe-
ther it be owing to their frequent hostilities,
to the great rapidity of the Kuban, or to the
domestic habits of the Cossacks, is uncertain ;
but fishing seemed to be entirely n^lected,
notwithstanding their favourable situation. The
only boats used upon the river are those
canoes before mentioned; each consisting of
one entire piece of wood, being scooped out of
a single tree.

^^j^^ On the evening of the last day of our red-
^^^ dence in Ekaterinedara, we again obtained per*
mission from the Commander-in-chief to make

cofffta.

TO THE CIMMBRIAN BOSPORUS. 53

an excursion into Circassia. The number of the chap.
natives upon the opposite shore was then much
diminished ; we could discern only a few strag-
glers ; and we hoped to collect some plants
for our herbary. General Drascovitz himself
attended us to the water's side, and, having sent
over a party of Cossacks^ retired with several of
his troops to the high grounds on the northern
bank of the river, in order to keep a look-out,
for our safety. The cannon stationed on these
heights had a very extensive range over the
oppoate country. We were ordered, if wc
heard a gun fired, to effect our retreat as
speedily as possible. We landed, and found,
near the river, the Glycyrrhiza glabra^ the
MubuM ciBiiutf and Commim Agrimony, Agrimonia
Eupataria. Hie appearance in the swampy
plain before us did not promise a better or
a more copious selection, and we therefore
entreated the Cossacks to venture with us to the
woods, apparently within a short walk to the
south. This our guard positively refused ; and,
continuing our search more immediately under
the cannon of Eiaterinedara^ we presently found
they had good reason for so doing, as upwards
of sixty Circassians made their appearance from
among some willows. At our approach, they
an collected together, making a great noise,
and asking us several questions in a loud tone,

£2

54 PROM THE CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

perhaps not otherwise menacing than that we
did not understand their language. Irritated as
they had heen by the events of the late war,
no confidence could have been placed in their
courtesy, even if any had been manifested ; for

althougUcpi^Uty «a»ng «v,g« -ti- •« .
sacred duty, revenge is not less an object of

their veneration*. We therefore reluctantly

retired, and, once more regainin^g our canoes,

for ever bade adieu to a country which seemed

to baffle every project that could be devised by

mere travellers for its investigation. Nothing

less than an army, at this time, ~ could have

enabled us to penetrate farther : and even with

such an escort, like Denon in Egyptj our obser-

vations might have been restricted to the limits

of the camp in which we must have lived.

(1) "Among the CireaaianMf the spirit of resentment is so grett
that all the relati?es of the marderer are considered as g^tj. This
customary in&tuation to avenge the blood of relatives geaerates most
of the feuds, and occasions great bloodshed, among all the tribes of
Caucasus; for unless pardon be purchased, or obtained by inter-
marriage between the two families, the principle of levenge Is props*
gated to all succeeding generations. The hatred which the momitaliioos
nations evince against the HmtianB in a great measure arises ftom flie
same source. If the thirst of vengeance is quenched .by a price psid to
the &mily of the deceased, this tribute is called TtdU- Uam, or Tktprkt
qf blood : but neither Princes nor Utdetu accept of such a compensmtiOB,
as it is an established law among them to demand (flood for biood.*'
Pcdleu^i Travels, vol. I. p. 405.

TO THB CIMMBRlAir BOSPORUS. 55

Leaving Mkaterinedara^ to pass along the <^hap.
JRuidan line, we crossed the steppes to Vydnia^ >^^v-w
a military station. Notwithstanding the nu- from js^-
jnerons videttes and garrisoned places guarding ^^'
the fircntiery we were desired to increase the
number of our escort A post route is esta-
blished throughout this boundary of the empire ;
and, in general, it is well conducted. The
Rusman line from the Black Sea towards the
east, continues along the. north side of the
Kuban, and from that riyer to the JTtima, which
is swallowed in mounds of drift-sand before it
can reach the Caspian; thence by the north
of the Caspian^ through the country of the
Kirgissian^f and by the river Urals on to the lake
Baikal, the river Amour, and, by the frontier of
China, to the Oriental Ocean. Afterwards it is
continued to the north, as feur as Kamtckatka.
Throughout this vast boundary, a regular post,
and military stations, may be found: but the
traveller, in the more northern part of it, instead
of horses for his conveyance, would be supplied
large dogs.

(3) Tbe eountrj of Kirgiit to divided into three parts ; Littk
JOrgiMtf Biiddle KirgiUf and the Grand Kirgiit, The two first only,
wifha §ew TlDages sooth of the BaOdl, are satject to JRuifia. But
the giMier part of the eountrj of the Kugiuiani is entirely inde-
peadent; and its inhabitants are Tagrants, living whoDy in waggons-
Tbe people oiJBoekMt, or J9iidWiria lead a better mode of life. Tliey
faava eevenl eooiidefahle towns. Their capital is Saemacahd.

56 FROM THE CIRCA8SIAnr FROlHlBfi,

Our journey conducted us, as usual, over
immense plains : these seemed to be inter-
minable, and they are destitute of the smallest
eleration. The soil between Ekaterimedara and
Produce of Vvdnia was very rich* We saw some good

the Land. ^ "^ . .

wheat, barley, oats, milletf rye, maize, and a
great quantity of large thistles anumg the grass,
a well-known proof that land is not poor. All
sorts of melons and grapes were thriving in the
open air. From Vydnia to MechastovBAatff and
to Kara Kuban \ we observed, principally, grass
land, with occasional patches of underwood,
containing young oaks: among these we found
red peas and vines, growing wild. The post'
master 9X MechaMac$kay refused to change a
note of five raubkSf because it was old, and had
been much in use. Hereabouts, we observed a
noble race of dogs, like those of the ilf oreo, and of
the province of Abruzzo in Italy ^ guarding the
numerous flocks. The villages were also filled
with these dogs, owing to their utility in giving
alarm during the nocturnal incursions of the
Circassians. We also saw several of a gigantic
breed, resembling the Irish Wolf-dog. From
Kara Kuban our route lay chiefly through fens
filled with reeds and other aquatic plants.

(1) Each of these latter places la nothing mora than a aingle Irat,
•cooped in an andcnt tomb.

TO THE CIMICBRIAN BOSPORUS. ffj

The air was excessively sultry, and unwhole- chap.
some. At length we reached a division of the v^^-v^
river which insulates the territory of Taman : ^*^!S?° ®'

^ the RiTer.

bere^ crossing by a ferry, we came to Kopil^
another military station. The branch of the
river where this ferry is stationed bears the
name of Protocka, and it falls into the Sea of
Azof. The other branch retains the original
appellation of Kuban, and falls into the Black
Sea. The Isle of Tanum, separating the two, is
the territory opposed to the Promontory of
Kertchy in the Crimea^ constituting those Straits
'Called, finom the earliest ages, the Cimmerian
Bosporus. At Kopil we found a General-officer,
who had married the daughter of one of the
Tehemomorsit. He shewed to us some of the
subaltems' tents, full of dirt and wretchedness.
In the Colonel's tent, who was absent, we saw
a table beautifully in-laid with mother-of-pearl
and ivory. Asking where it was made, we
were told it had been purchased of the C!r-
casgians^ who are very ingenious in such arts.
The General said, sign^cantly, he preferred
KopU to Petersburg ; — any place, we inferred,
rather than the residence of the Emperor Paul.

(9) ^ Boqporai CSnuDerios, nt Strabo pntat, nomen hoc k Cimlnis
tofftttof eft. Bed ego fidli enin arbitror: Cimmeriae enirn nomen
maltiV ftotiqiilBi et ab Homeri temporibos cognitum fuit.'* Deseript,
Twrtnt. p. 9S4. L. Bai. 1030.

5g FROM THB CIRCASSIAN FBONTIEB,

CHAP. Few situations could surpass Kopil in wretch-
edness. Bad air, bad water, swarms of mos-
quitoes, with various kinds oi locusts^ beetles^
innumerable flies, lizards, and spotted toads,
seemed to infest it with the plagues of Egypt.
Horses could not be hired; but the General
accommodated us with his own. As we left
KopiU we quitted also the river, and proceeded
through marshes to Kalauts. In our way, we
caught some small ducks, and saw also wild
geese. At Kalavs were two young elks, very
tame; and we were told that many wild ones
might be found in the steppes during the
spring*

In the course of this journey, as we ad-
vanced from Mkaterinedara^ frequent stands of
lances announced, at a distance, the comfort-
able assurance of the TcherTiomorski guard ; with-
out this, the herds of cattle in the steppes,
amounting to many thousands, would be con-
tinually plundered by the Circassians. Those
Cossacks pass the night upon the bare earth,
protected from the mosquitoes by creeping into
a kind of sack, sufficient only for the covering
of a single person : beneath this they lie upon
the thistles and other wild plants of the steppes.
At Kahms there was rather a strong body of
the military. From this place to Kourhy the

TO THB CIMMBBIAir BOSPOBUB. ^Q

distance is thirty-five versts^. Night came on ; chap.
bat we determined to proceed. No contrivance ^^^^
on our part could prevent millions of mosqni- ^^^
toes firom filling the inside of our carriage:
in spite of gloves, clothes, and handkerchiefa,
they rendered our bodies one entire wound.
The excessive irritation and painful swelling
caused by the stings of these furious insects,
together with a hot pestilential air, excited a
considerable d^ree of fever\ The Cossacks
light numerous fires to drive them firom the
cattle during the night ; but so insatiate is their
thirst of blood, that swarms will attack a person
attempting to shelter himself even in the midst
of smoke. The noise they make in fiying
cannot be conceived by persons who have
only been accustomed to the humming of such
insects in our country. It was indeed to all of
us a fearfid sound, accompanied by the clamour
of reptile myriads, toads and bull-firogs, whose

(1) Batharleit tliaatwenly-foiir Sngliah mOet.

(9) The mortalitj that occaskmcd in the RuMtiim army, both of men
end h(onet» WM Yery gmt. Ifany of those ttatkmed along the JTnteii
died fm entiqiiinM of mortifiefttkm prodneed by the bites of these
iaseeta. Others, who escaped the 'weDom of the mosquitoes, feU rictims
to the badness of the air. Sometimes the sc^diers scoop a hollow in
the antient tombs, to ser? e as a dwelling : at other times, a mere shed,
cuuatiucted of reeds, aflbids the only coTering ; and in either of these
places, during the greatest beat of sommer, they light large fires, in
offder to fin the area with smoke ; fiying to their snfibcating oTens, in
the most snltry weather, to escqw the mosqoitoes.

II.

go I^OM THE CmCASSUN FBOITTIBB,

CHAP, constant croaking, joined with the barking of
dog8 and the lowing of herds, mamtained in
the midst of darkness an unceasing uproar. It
was our intention to travel during all hours,
without haltmg for any repose; but various
accidents compelled us to stop at Kourhy about
midnight, a military station like the rest ; and no
subsequent seimation of ease or comfort has
ever obliterated the impression made by the
suffering of that night. It was near the middle
of July. ^The carriage had been dragged, for
many miles, through stagnant pools : in fording
one of these, it had been filled with water : the
dormeuse^ seat, floor, and well, became, in con-
sequence covered with stinking slime. We
stopped therefore to open and to inspect the
trunks. Our books and linen were wet The
Cossack and Russian troops were sleeping upon
the bare earth, covered with sacks : beneath
such a tester, a soldier permitted Mn Cripps to
lie down. The ground seemed entirely alive
with mnumerable toads, crawling everywhere.
Almost exhausted by fatigue, by pain, and by
heat, the author sought shelter within the
carriage, sittmg m water and mud. The air
was so sultry, that not a breath of wind could
be felt; nor could he venture to open the
windows, although almost suffocated, through
fear of the mosquitoes. Swarms, nevertheless,

fO THB CimBSIAN BOSPORra. gj

found their way to his hiding*plaee : when he chap.
opeDed his mouth, it was filled with them. «^^v^
His head was hound in handkerchief; yet
they forced their way into his ears and nostrils.
In the midst of this torment, he succeeded in
kindling a large lamp which was over the
sword^ciie; this was instantiiy extinguished by
sndi a prodigious number of mosquitoes, that
their dead bodies actually remained heaped in
a cone over the burner for several days after-
wards; and perhaps there is no method of
describing the nature of such an afflicting
visitation better than by the simple statement
of this fact To the truth of it, those who
travelled with him will bear indisputable
teatimoiiy.

Thenorihem bank of the Kvban^ being every- ^^S^^e
where devated, presents a very extensive view, ^^^^^^
across those marshy plains of CHrcdsda lying '^^"Hory.
towards the river, of the mountainous ridges of
Caucasus. As morning dawned, we had a
delightful jnnospect of a rich country upon the
CSrcoMsian side, something like South Wales^ or
the finest parts of Kent ; pleasing hills, covered
with wood; and fertile valleys, cultivated like
gardens. A rich Circassian Prince, the pro-
prietor of this beautiful territory, frequently
ventured across the Kuhan^ as we were

CHAP.
II.

Watch-
towers*

Cimme*

rian

Boaporutm

TBOU THE CIBCASSIAN FBONTISB,

informed, to converse with the guard. On the
Husdan side, the scenery is of a very different
description ; particularly in the journey from
Kalaus to Kapil, where it is a continual swamp.
In travelling through it, tall reeds, the never-
failing indication of unwholesome air, rose above
the roof of our carriage, to the height of sixteen
or twenty feet Sometimes, for many miles,
we could see no other objects ; nor were other
sounds heard excepting the noise of mosqui-
toes and the croaking (^ toads and frogs.
Upon the elevated land nearer to the river, and
in the midst of the military stations protecting
the line, observatories of a very singular
construction are raised, for the purpose of
containing each a single person. They resemble
so many eagles' nests. Each of these is placed
upon three upright tall poles, or trunks of trees.
Here a Cossack sentinel, standing with his fusil,
continually watches the motions of the Circassians
upon the opposite side of the Kuban.

As we left Kourky, the mosquitoes began to
diminish in number ; and, to our inexpressible
joy, in the approach towards the shores of the
CiiiMERiAN Bosporus, or Straits of Taman^
they suddenly disappeared altogether \

(1) The inhabitants oi Taman had neTer been tonnented bj Chcae
inflate ; but during the night after our arriTal, the wh<^ fiunily with

whom

II.

TO THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUB. 63

We were now approaching countries con- chap.
nected with the earliest history of Greeccy and
the most splendid periods of the Roman Empire.
Occasions to illustrate their interesting annals,
by reference to antient monuments, might
indeed be few ; but we resolved to note every
occurring observation, and did not anticipate
with indifference the gratification we should
experience in traversing regions once the
emporium of Athens ; whence she derived the
principle of her existence, as a maritime power,
until the commerce of the JEuxine passed, with
the liberties of Crreece^ into the hands of the
Romans. Her trade in the Euxine, not only
supported, but enriched her inhabitants. It
became the nursery for her seamen, and was
of the utmost importance in the demand it
occasioned for her own manufactures. A very

whmn we lodged were stung by a few, which came with iu in the
carriage. JSngUmd Is, for the mott part, free from this terrible scourge,
as wdl as from the locust ; but it Is Tery nncertain how long it may
contlniie so, as the progress of both one and the other, towards lati-
todes where they were formerly raiknown, has been sensibly felt in
many ooimtrles within the present century. Perhaps in no part of the
globe do they abound more than in Lapland, When Acerbi published his
Trareis in those regions, it was objected that he had too often mentioned
the mosquitoes; yet there is no circumstance which gives to his writings
more fntemal evidence of truth, than the cause of this objection. The
fiiet is, iha teal nature of their afflicting Tisitation, rendering even life
bodensome, cannot be ooneeiTed but by persons who haTC had the
mbfDrtane to wttness its effects.

II.

64 FROM THB CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP, principal part of this intercourse was confined
to the Cimmerian Bofsparusj whose kings and
princes received the highest marks of Athenian
regard. Many of them were made citizens of
Athens: an honour esteemed, in that age, one
of the most distinguished that could be con-
ferred*. From periods the most remote — from
those distant ages when Milesian settlements
were first established upon the coasts of the
JSuxine — a trade with the inhabitants of the
country, extending even to the Pains Mwotis
and to the mouths of the Tanais^ had been
carried on; and it is perhaps to those early
colonies of Greece that we may attribute most
of the surprising sepulchral monuments found
upon either side of the Cimmerian Bosporus.
The Milesians erected a number of cities upon
all the shores of the JStixine, and peopled them
with their own colonies\ Other states of
-Grreece, and especially the Athenianj followed
their example'. The difficulty of ascertaining
the locality of those ancient cities arises from
two causes ; first, from want of harmony among

(1) ** Leuco, king of Thrace, waiio jmueh pleated tberebyy tbat he
ordered the decree, makii^fhimaii Athenian Citizen* to beei^gravea ok
three marble columns. One of them was placed in the Pineua, another
on the side of the Thradan Bosponity and the third in the templexif
Jupiter Urius.*' Clarkt^i Ckmnexwn. cf Com, p. &d.

(2) Ibid. (3) Ibid.

TO THB CIlCMERIAlf BOSPORUS. g5

those authors whose nmtings we adopt as chap.
guides ; secondly, from our ignoranee of the \^-v^^
geography of the couiitry. Not a single map
has yet been published with any accurate
representation. Our only guide to conduct us
in our approach to the Bosporus^ was the large
Basil edition of Pliny^ a folio volume, presented
to us by Mr. Kovalensky of Taganrog ; a most
unexpected acquisition in the plains of TaJUary.
According to the text of that author, we had
every reason to believe we were not far from
the situation of the antient town of Cimnwrium ;
and in this conjecture we were probably right

At the £90t of a small mountain, near the Temnmk.
northern embouchure of the Kuban^ we came to
a station called TemrooL This place may be
observed in the Russian maps. It is now nothing

(4) Aeeordiag te every Greek text, p«rtieiilarly that of Strabo^ It

flhooM be written BOXnOPOS, Implying ^ a pa$mgefor Oxen;* but •Si

the Latfai Oeogrmphen write Bosphorus. It aeemf probable that the

original appellatioii was (leri?ed from «QS«OPO£, the moet antfent

Bune of Feaacfy whote fane waa npon these shores. Hie name of the

BotpmruB of TkrmoB^ aooordhtg to EusiatJdmt, in bis commentary on

IKofiyiiKft (See Ox. Ed. p. 188,) was a corruption of «QS«OPION ; bat

periiapa the term was first taken, rather from the Light-Tincertj or the

Volamde Pire», common to both the Straits, than from the origin lie has

asrigned. The change of 4 into B was common ; as BIAinilDS fbr

♦uinno2, BprrES for ^prrss, beponikh for «eponikh,

aad WflOM for «AAAINA.

66 PROM THE CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP, more, however, than a single hut, for the purpose
of supplying post-horses. Near it, the very
year before our arrival, a volcano rose from the
sea, forming an island which afterwards sunk
again\ Temrook is mentioned in the notes to
the Oxford edition of Straboj in more than one
instance, with allusion to the Travels of Motraye^
and written Temrotf. In Motraye^s time it was
a place of more consideration than we found it
He was there in the beginning of the last
century^, and describes it as *' considerable for
its commerce, in hides, caviare^ honey, C%rc(unim

(1) The following account of the rlting of thto island hai heen ex-
tracted from PalUu^i Travek. ** It was about sun-rise, on the fifth of
September (1790), when a subterraneoHS noise, and soon alter a dread-
ful thundering, were peroei? ed in the Sea qf Azqf, oppoaite to old
TemruMf about one hundred and fifty &thoms from the shore. This
intestine convulsion was speedily followed with a report not unlike that
of a cannon; while the astonished spectators, who had attentitely
watched the terrific scene, observed an island, of the form of a laige
ftorroio, rising from a cavity of the sea about five or six fkthoms deep,
and proceeding above the surfkce of the water, so that it occupied a
space of about one hundred fathoms in circumference. At first it
appeared to swell, and separate by fissures, throwing up mire with
stones, till an eruption of fire and smoke occupied the spot. . . • •
On the same day, abont seven o'clock P« M. two violent shoeka of an
earthquake, after a short Intenral, were perceived at Ekaterinodar, which
is two hundred vents (near 134 miles) distant from Temruk/* PaOat*§
TraoO* tit the South qfBuuiOf voL II. p. 316. The same author idatea,
that the island sunk again before he could visit it.

(2) Strab. Qeogr. lib. iL p. 722. edit. Oxon. 1807.

(3) Motraife was at TemrtxA in December 1711. See TraT. rcL n<
p. 40.

TO THB Cmif BBIAN BOSPORUS. ^

slaves, and horses/' He supposed its castle
stood where the Antients placed their PatrtBus ;
and *^two eminences/' says he, <* which are
named The point of the island^ may have heen
their AchiUeum Promontorium\** This seems
sufficient to prove that here was the situation of
Cmmerntm^ stationed, as Pliny mentions, ** ultimo
in ostioJ^ It had formerly, observes the same
geographer^ the name of Cerberion. Pallas re-
marks', that TemrooA may probably have been
the Gmbrieus of Straho. From this place Motrage
began his journey, when he discovered, in so
remarkable a manner, the ruins of a Greek city
in Circassian seeming, from an inscription he found
there, to have been Apaturus. All that we
can collect firom the obscurity involving this part
of his narrative, is, [ that, leaving Temrook^ he
turned to the right, and, crossing a river, called
by the Tahtars The Great Water (probably the
Kyban)^ arrived, after a journey of one hundred
and ten hoursl*, at those ruins : also, that they
were situate in a tMyuntainous country ; for he
observes, that the Tahtars of the mountains
were not so civil as those of the plains* It
follows, therefore, that Pliny is not speaking of

(4) Ibid.

(6) TniTels tliroiigh the Soathern ProTinees, &c. toI. IL p. 316.
(6) The editor of the Oxford Strabo makes it fiye days and six hours.
Hus is eridently a mlftakOy 88 will appear hy coofaltiDg the text.
VOL. II. F

63 PHOM THE CIRCASSIAN FBONTIEK,

CHAP, the Apaturus in Sindica mentioned by Strabo\

N^.^^ when he couples it with Phanaqoria% but of

a temple of Apaturian Ventis, belonging to that

stm^BDd ^^*y» ^^^ noticed also by Strabo^. Having thus

-P^yj^ removed one difficulty, in reconciling the placea

on the Bosporus with the text of these authors,

we may perhaps proceed with more facility and

precision.

Fortress After leaving Temrook^ we journeyed, prin-

and Ruins. cipaUy in water, through an extensive morass.
In the very midst of this are stationed the ruins
of a considerable fortress, looking like an old
Roman castle, and said to have belonged to the
Turks. At the taking of this place, the RusMms^
from their ignorance of the country, lost five
hundred men. In order to attack an out-post,
they had a small river to cross ; this they ex-
pected to pass on ice ; but the Turks had cut the
ice away, and the water was deep* During the
deliberation caused by this imexpected embar-
rassment, the TurkSf who were concealed behind
a small rampart, suddenly opened a brisk fire^
causing them to leap into the water, where they
were all shot or drowned. The fortress itself

(1) Strab. lib. ii. p. 722. cd. Oxon.

(2) " Mox Stratoclia et Pttanagoria^ ei poeni dcscrtum ApaturotJ^
Plin. lib, y\, c. 6.

(3) Strut, lib. ii. p. 723. cd. Oxon,

II.

TO THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS. Qq

18 a square building, having a tower at each chap.
angle, and is still almost entire. It is difficult
to conceive for what purpose it was erected ; as
it stands in the midst of a fen, without seeming
to protect any important point. Is it possible
that such a building can present the remains of
CiMMERiUM, or even the Tmutaracan of the
Humans, or any work of high antiquity ? On
account of its form, we should be inclined to
believe its origin of no remote date : and yet,
that little has been ascertained of the style of
architecture used in the earlier periods of
fortification, may be proved by reference to a
silver medal, now in the author's collection,
which he afterwards found in Macedonia. This
medal is of the highest antiquity, being rude
m form, and without any legend or monogram.
The subject of it exhibits in front, within an
indented square, the figure of a man. with a
crowned head, and a poignard in his hand,
combating a lion ; and the reverse, with very
little difference, may represent the fortress in
question^.

At the distance of two versts from this fortress
we saw other ruins, with a few antient and some
Turkish tombs, and subterraneous excavations.

(4) flee the Fi^ji^e« to this chapter

F 2

yO FROM THB CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP. Among these may be recognized the identical
n^nW antiquities described by Motrayej in his travels^
No trace of any antient work appeared after-
wards, excepting tumulij until we came to the
Bay of Taman. Then, upon the shore, imme-
diately above some high cli£&, we observed the
remains of a large fortress and town, entirely
surrounded with tombs and broken mounds of
earth, indicating evident traces of human labour.
The geography of these coasts is so exceedingly
obscure, that a little prolixity in noticing every
appearance of this kind, may perhaps be tolerated.
Sienna. We soon reached the post-house of Sienna^
actually scooped in the cavity of an antient tomb.
In the neighbourhood of this place we found
remains of much greater importance. Its en-
virons were entirely covered with tentufi, of a
size and shape that cannot fail to excite «
traveller's wonder, and stimulate his res^urclL
Remark- The cowmandant of engineers at TamaM^ General
Vanderweydcj had already employed the soldien
of the garrison in opening the largest It was
quite a mountain. They began the work, very
ignorantly, at the summit, and for a long time
laboured to no purpose. At last, by changing
the direction of their excavation, and openin|^
the eastern side, they discovered the entrance

able tomb.

(I) Motrayef torn. II. p. 40.

TO THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUe. i^|

to a large arclied rault, of the most admirable chap.
masonry. The author had the pleasure to v^Srw
descend into diis remarkable sepulchre. Its
month was half filled with earth ; yet, after
passing the entrance, there was sufficient space
for a person to stand upright Farther, towards
the interior, the area was clear, and the work
perfectly entire. The material of which the
masonry consisted was a white crumbling
tapkuSf of limestone, such as the country now
afibrdsy filled with fragments of minute shells.
Whether it be the work of MUesians^ or of any
ether colony of Greece^ the skill used in its
oonstraction is evident. The stones of the sides
are all square, perfect in their form, and put
together without cement. The roof exhibits AnUqaity
the finest turned arch imaginable, having the
whiteness of the purest marble. An interior
vaulted chamber is separated from the outer
by means of two pilasters, swelling out wide
towards their bases, and placed, one on each
side at the entrance ; the inner chamber being
tibe larger of the two.

Concerning every thing found in this tomb, it
is perhaps not possible to obtain information.
One article alone, that was shewn to us by
General Vanderweyde at TamaUy may give an
idea of the rank of the person originally there

rjc^ FBOM THE CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP, interred. This was an ancient cincture for the
ankle, or a bracelet for the wrist, made of the

Gold purest massive gold. The soldiers employed

Bracelet.

in the undertaking stole whatsoever they deemed
of value, or were able to conceal ; destroying
others things not seeming to them to merit pre-
servation. Among these was a number of vases*
of black terra-cottay adorned with white orna-
ments. The bracelet was reserved by General
Vanderweydef to be sent to Petersburg j for the
Emperor's cabinet} but enough having been
said of Mussia to induce at least a suspicion that
so valuable a relic may never reach its des-
tination, a n^ore particular description of it is
necessary. Its weight equalled three quarters
of a pound. It represented the body of a serpent,
curved into an elliptical form, with two heads :
these, meeting at opposite points, formed an
openmg for the wrist or ankle. The se^K^t
heads were studded with rubies, so as to imitate
eyes, and to ornament the back part of each
head by two distinct rows of gems. The rest
of the bracelet was also further adorned by rude

(1) A few of tbcfle Tases were however sent to Moscow (according to
the account given to us in the country) ; and they were there swallowed
by the whirlpool which engnlphed in that city all that it dear to
literature. Their local history is probably now lost ; for the fiuttiangf
in their astonishing ignorance, call all works of this kind JS^mieoii,
believing thereby to add to their value.

TO THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS. yS

graved work. It possessed no elasticity, but chap.

XL*

on account of the ductility of pure gold, might,
with sufficient force, be expanded so as to admit
the wrist or the ankle of the person who might
wear it; and probably, when once adapted to
the form, it remained during the life-time of the
owner. We regarded this relic as one of the
most antient specimens of art perhaps existing
in the world; shewing the progress made in
metallurgy, and in the art of setting precious
stcmes, at a very early period ; and exhibiting
a remarkable type of the mythology of the age
in which it was fabricated; the practice of
binding a serpent round the leg or arm, as an
amulet, being one of the earliest superstitions
common to almost- every nation, and which yet
exists in many countries. Immediately above
the stone-work constructed for the vault of the
sepulchre, we observed, first, a covering of earth,
and then a layer of sea- weed ^ compressed by
another superincumbent stratum of earth, to the
thickness of about two inches. This layer of
sea-weed was as white as snow, and, when taken
in the hand, separated into thin flakes, and fell
to pieces. What the use of this Vegetable
covering could be, is now uncertain : it is found
in all the tombs of this country. Pallas observed

(*2) Zottera marina^ according to Pallas,

1^^ FROM THE CIBCAS8IAN FRdfTIBR,

caAP. it in regular layers, with coarse terra-cotta Ta£ie8»
of rude workmanship, unglazed, and fiUed with
a mixture of earth and charcoal^ It is said that
a large marble soros or sarcophagus, the operct^
lum of which now serves for a cistern near the
fortress of YenikalS in the Crimea, was taken from
this tomb. The appearance of the entrance,
however, in its present state, contradicts the
story ; as the opening has never yet been made
sufficiently wide for the removal of such a
relic, even had it been so discovered. In the
Vignette to the next Chapter is a representation
of that part of the sarcaphc^fTis at YeniAaU to
which allusion is here made* That it was taken
from one of the antient tombs of the Bosporus^
is highly probable^ ; and its perfect coincidence,
in point of form, with an invariable model com-
mon among the sepulchres of Greece, sufficiently
denotes the people from whom it was derived.

Similar tombs appear upon all the shores of
the Bosporus. Close to this now described,
are many others, and some nearly of equal size.
Pallas, in his journey over this country, mentions
ihe frequency of such appearances around the

(1) TraTelfl through the Southern PrOTinces^ &c. toL II. p. 306.
(3) Motraye mentions haTing seen the lower half of one^ between
Taman and Temrook, Vol. II. p. 40.

TO THB CIMHBRIAK BOSPOBC78. y^

Bag of Taman\ Indeed, it would bo Yaia to ask chap»
where they are not observed : but the size, the

grandeur, and the riches, of those upon the
European and Asiatic sides of the Cimmerian
Straits excite astonishing ideas of the wealth and
power of the people by whom they were con-
gtmcted. In the view of labour so prodigious,
as well as of expenditure so enormous, for the
purpose of inhuming a single body, customs and
si^erstitions are manifested which serre to illus*
trate the origin of the pyramids of Egypt, of the
eavems ofEUphanta, and of the first temples of
die antient world. In memory of '^ the mighty oHgin of
dead,*' long before there were any such edifices ^^'''^'
as temples, the simple sepulchral heap was
raised, and this became the altar upon which
sacrifices were offered. Hence the most antient
Heathen structures for offerings to the Gods
were always erected upon tombs, or in their
immediate vicinity. The discussion which has
been founded upon a question '< Whether the
Egyptian pyramids were tombs or tem^es," seems
altogether nugatory : being one, they were ne-
cessarily the other. The Soros in the interior
chamber of the greater pyramid of DjizOf proving
its sepulchral origin, as decidedly establishes

(S) TraTeb through the Soathem ProTlnces, See. toL II. p. 906, &c.

yQ FROM THE CIRCASSIAK FRONTIBR,

CHAP, the certainty that it was also a place of religious
worship :

" Ettot templa Dttm Rom», quot in orbe Sepulehra
Heroum nomerare licet.*' i

The sanctity of the Acropolis of Athens owed
its origin to the sepulchre of Cecrops : and without
this leading cause of veneration, the numerous
temples by which it was afterwards adorned
would never have heen erected. The same may
be said of the Temple of Venus at Paphosj built
over the tomb of Cmyras, the father of Adonis ;
of Apollo ZHdt/nuBus, at Miletus, over the grave of
Cleomachus ; with many others, alluded to both
by JSusebius * and by Clemens Alexandrinus \ On
this account, antient authors make use of such
words for the temples of the Gods as, in their
original and proper signification, imply nothing
more than a tomb or a sepulchre. In this sense,
Lycophron\ who affects obsolete terms, uses
TYMB02 ; and VirgU ^ TVM VLVS. I thas been
deemed right to state these few observations,
because there is no part of antient history liable
to greater misrepresentation, than that which re-
lates to the origin of temples : neither is it possible

(1 ) Prudentius, lib. i* (2) Prsep. Evang. lib. ii. c &

(3) Cohortatio ad Qent. 3. (4) Lycophr. CastantL t. 619.

(5) '* TVmtiittfn antiqnse Cererif y sedemque sacratam,

Vcnimos." .Sn. lib. ii. v. 749.

TO THB CIMMBBIAN BOSPORUS. 77

to point out a passage in all Mr. Bryants learned c^p.
dissertations, so reprehensible, and so contrary ^-^^/*^
to the evident matter of fact, as that in which
this subject is introduced. Having afforded an
engraved representation^ of sepulchres^ exactly
similar to those excavated in the rocks of Asia
Mtnar, exhibiting inscriptions which decidedly
prove the purport of their construction, he
nevertheless exerted his extraordinary erudition
to establish au erroneous opinion of their real
history.

Sienna^ seems to correspond with the Cepvs cbpob*
of Strabo^j and Cepce Milesiorum of Pliny^. The
Milesian sepulchres found there in such abun-
dance may probably still further confirm this
position : but in order to elucidate the text of
either of these authors, reference should be
made to better maps than have hitherto been
published. No less than three antient bridges of

(S) Bryant* t Mythology, toI. I. p. 224. 4to. edit. London^ 1774.

(7) Sienna b the name of this place, as pronounced by the TchemO'
wionM Cos$adk$ ; but they are constantly changing the appellation of
the different places in the country, and we know not what name it had
among the Tdhian,

(8) lib. ii.p. 722. ed. Oxon. It is written Cepi in the Latin trans-
lation ; and in the Greek text, K^xoc ; but, accordiug to the Notes,
some MSS. read ol K^woi . We have written it as it is authorised by the
edition of Ptiny we chanced to have with us, as well as by P<niq)omut
Mda^ and by Dvodonu Sieului*

(9)Hl8t.Nat.Ub.Ti. c.6.

M FBOH THB CIRCA0SION FRONTIER,

CHAP. Stone lead to this plaoe from Tcanan ; and that
they were works as much of laxury as of neces-
sity, is evident, from the circmnstance of their
being erected over places containing little or no
water at any time. A shallow stream, it is true,
flows under one of them ; but this the people of
the country pass at pleasure, disregarding the
bridges, as being high, and dangerous on account
cf their antiquity. They consist each of a single
arch, formed with great skill, according to that
massive solidity whch characterizes works of
remoter ages. The usual bridges of the country
are nothing more than loose pieces of timber
covered with bulrushes.

Near to this spot, upon a neck of land
between the great marsh or lake of Temrook and
a long bay formed by the Euxine^ at the dis-
tance of eighteen versts from the Ruins of
Pharuigoriay stood a monument, composed of two
statues and a pedestal, with a most interesting
inscription, which has been preserved by the
ingenious Koehler. The monument was raised
by CamosaryOj a queen of the Bosporus, in con-
sequence of a vow she had made to the deities
Anerges and Astara^ The inscription has

{I) ** Audio A$t arte the Pbenkian God, alludes AeHar, or JBatiert
that Saxon Goddess to whom they sacrificed in the moneth of Aprfl^
which Bede, in his book De Temporibw, styles Easter mooetii.''
BoOiart Can. I i. c. 42. fol. 761. See Oah'$ Qmri of the OeMiUt,
l^. 124.

TO THB CIUMBRIAN BOSPORUS. 79

been communicated to me, with the learned chap.
Koehlers commentary, since the publication of wn^^
the first edition of this yolume^

lOMOSAPTHrOPrinnOYeYTATHPnAIPirAAOYrr.NflEYSAMENH
ANEeHKEI2XYPOieEIOI2ANEPr£IKAlA2TAPAIAPXONTO£nAlPI2AAOYS

BOZnOPOYKAieEYAOSIHSKAIBASIAEYONTOS ONKAIMAITONHA

KAieATEQN

History does not mention Comosarya ; but we
know, from the inscription, that she was daughter
of Gargipptis, and wife of Pcerisades, probably
Pcsrisades L who was son of Leucoiij and suc«
ceeded his brother Spartocus III. in the fourth
year of Olympiad cvii. According to J^iodortu?^
this PtBrisades reigned thirty-eight years. It
appears, from a learned dissertation of M. BozCf
that P<Brisade8, Satyrus^ and Gorgippis^ are the
tyrants of the Bosporus alluded to by the
orator Di7uirckus\ when he reproaches DemoS'
thenes with having caused bronze statues to be
erected in honour of those sovereigns, in the
public square at Athens. This, and the pre-
ceding marble, tend to confirm what we read in
Stralxff Z>iodorus% and JLtccian^y that from the

(9) Bf CharU$ Kdscdl, Esq. of Trinity CoUege, Cambridge^ who*
dmiDg his trarelB in this country, panned the author's route, with
vaabated ceal, «nd with enterprise which was only subdued hy the
stcrifiee of his health.

(3) Lib. xtL cap. 52.

(4) DgmoMen. Orat. p. 34. ed. Riiske.

(5) Lib. xi. p. 758.
(0) Lib. XX. cap. 82.

(7) In Maerob. cap. xrii. p. 123.

80 PBOM THB CIRCASSIAN FRONTIBB,

CHAP, time of Spartocus I. to Amnder, who was invested
v^->rw with the regal authority hy Augustus^ the go-
vernment of the Bosporus was partly republican ;
for Pcerisades is styled Archon of the Bosporus,
and the chief magistrate is termed Heghmon hy
Strqhoj and Ethnarchus hy Lucian.

The deities Anerges and Astara are Syro-
Chalddic. Anerges is prohahly the same as
the deity Nergel, or Nergal, mentioned in
Scripture*, the Moloch of the Ammonites^ the
Remphah of the Egyptians^ and Hyperion of the
Cheeks. Astara is the Chaldaic and Phcenidan
AsTAROTH, the Alilat of the Arabs^ the Isis of
the Egyptians, the Syrian deity mentioned hy
XiUciaHf and the Atergatis^ Astartb, sndSelkniot
the Oreehs.

It was, then, to the two great luminaries of
heaven that Comosarya dedicated her monument,
]^robahly to implore them to grant her firuitful-
ness in marriage^.

^^^^^ ®^ We passed the new fortress of Tamany in our

(1) 2 Kings, ZTii. so.

(2) It b obeerrable that 2XYPQI is in the singolar number, which
is an error in the engraver of thenoarble: and for OATEOK, KoMer
proposes OATEPON.

TO THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS. SI

way to the town, distant about two verst^*
Workmen were then employed upon the build-
ing. It is an absurd and useless undertaking,
calculated to become the sepulchre of the few
remaining inscribed marbles and Grecian has-
reliefs^ daily buried in its foundation. As a
military work, the most able engineers view it
with ridicule. An army may approach close to
its walls, protected from its artillery by a
natural fosse, and even unperceived by the
garrison. The Mussians begin to be convinced
of the bad policy which induced them to extend
their frontier into this part of Asia. The defence
of the line from Ekaterinedara to Taman^ not
half its extent, between the Caspian and the
Black Sea, required, at the time we passed, an
army of fifty thousand men^ whose troops,
from unwholesome climate and bad water, con-
sidered the station little better than a grave.
The country itself yields no profit ; for it consists,
principally, of swampy or barren land, and
serves only to drain Russia of soldiers, who

(3) ^ There !• a fortress with a Rassian garrison, of whom the Cossacks
eomplain heavily, as infinnoas thieves. Our carriage was guarded
everj night by a Cossack sentinel with his lance." Heber's MS*
JmtrnaL

(4) Tliat is to say, during a period of war. In ordinary times, the
Dumber Is by no means so considerable. Mr. Heber makes the whole
guard of the cordon only equal to 5000 men.

92 FBOM THE CIRCA8SIA9 FROimSR,

CHAP, might be better employed. The natural bom-
^-^^^ danes offered by the BUick Sea, the Sea of Azof ^
and the Dor^ with a cordon from that river to
Astrachan, would much better answer the pur-
poses of strength and dominion.

Toman. Arriving at Tamatij we were lodged in the
house of an officer who had been lately dismissed
the service; through whose attention, and that
of General Vajiderweydej the commander of
engineers, we were enabled to rescue from
destruction some of the antiquities condemned to
serve as materials in constructing the fortress^
HiiinB of The General conducted us to the ruins, whence
goria. they derive masses of marble for this purpose ;
and called them, as they really appeared to be,
"The Ruins of the City of Phanagoria/*
They extend over all the suburbs of Taman;
the ground being covered with foundations of
antient buildings; frequently containing blocks
of marble, fragments of sculpture, and antient
medals. Of the medals procured by lus upon
either side the Bosporus, few are common in
cabinets. One especially, foundL in or near

(1) As fhese have been already described in the account pnblifhed
of the Oreek Marblei, deposited, since our return, in the Vestibule of
the Public Library of the TJniyerrity of Cambridge, it is only neeessary
now to refer to that work ; and to say, that the articles described ini
Nos. I. IV. V. VI. XXIV. in pages 1, 4, 46, came from this place.

TO THB CIMMBRIAN BOSPORUS. 88

TamoHj deserves particular notice ; as it seems ohap.
to confirm what has heen said respecting the
dtoation of Phanagoria. It is a small silver
medal of that city, of great antiquity, and per-
liaps unique ; there heing nothing like it in the
Collection at Paris^ nor in any other celebrated
cabinet of Europe. In front, it exhibits the
head of a young man, with the kind of cap
described in a preceding page of this volume*:
upon the reverse appears a bull, butting, with
a grain of com in the space below the line upon
which the animal stands, and above it are the
ktters 4>ANA. When we consider the destruc-
tioii of antient works, so long carried on in
Toman and in its neighbourhood, we may rea-
sonably wonder that any thing should now
remain to illustrate its former history. So
long ago as the beginning of the last century,
it was observed by Motraye that the remains of
antiquity were daily diminishing'. Between

(S) Bee Note 1. p. 90.

(S) ^ We took op our lodging that night at Taman, and set out
the ttth, eeily in the morning ; and I observed nothing remarlLablp
betifewi this town and Temrook, bat some yet considerable ruins,
wkkkwtrtUkOifto beanM leu 9o every da^, by their continued dimmw
fisn, OBfMiniMd by the inhabitants of those two places carrying off,
time to time, part of tliem, to build magazines, or lay the
for some houses. By their situa^on, they seemed to
me to have been those of the Phanagoria of the AntientSyifitwas
not at Tnnan; bat I could not find either inscriptions or baaso-
rdlnee to give me any ftirther insight Into it. Hard by the highway,
VOL II. G n«ar

II.

8 1 FROM THB CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP. Tatnan and Temrook, he saw the lower part of a
Soros ; and perhaps the cistern at YenikaU was
the upper part of this, that is to say, its
operculum}. When a traveller has reason to
suspect that he is upon or near to the site of
antient cities, an inquiry after the cisterns
used hy the inhabitants may guide him to very
curious information : to this use the Soroi have
been universally applied; and upon those,
cisterns antient inscriptions may frequently be
discovered. Another cause of the loss of antient
monuments at Tamarij originated in tlie esta-
blishinent of a colony of Mussians at a very
early period, when the city bore the name (d
TamatarcaUj or Tmutaracav?. Near the gate of
the church-yard of Taman lies a marble slab,
with the curious inscription which ascertains
the situation of that antient principality of Russia^
once the residence of her princes. We had the
satisfaction to see this stone, and to copy the
inscription: it has already been illustrated by
the writings of Pallas^ and by a celebrated
Russian antiquary, who published, in his own

near a well, there is a sort oC a long and lai^ chest of hard ttoney if
▼aluable as marble, and without a corer, almost like the tomht at
Xom|Maeo." Matraye'a TraotU^ voL II. p. 40. .

(1) PaUoB says it was brought from the Ide of Tamaiu See toI. U.
p. 285.

(2) " The name in Theodosius's Itinerary is Ttmuxtarctu TmntamctB
means literally The Swarm of Beetles." H^ter'i MS. JoumaL

Tmutara'
can.

II.

TO THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS. S5

Umguagei a valuable dissertation upon the chap.
subject*. It would be therefore superfluous to
say more at present of this valuable relic,
than that it commemorates a mensuration made
upon the ice, by Prince Glebj son of Vladimir^
in the year 1065, of the distance across the
Bosporus from Tmutaracan to Kertchy ; that is
to say, firom Phanagoria to Panticapceum : this
is found to correspond with the actual distance
firom Taman to Kertchy. The words of the
inscription are to the following effect : ** In the
year 6576 (1065), Indict. 6. Prince Gleb measured
the sea on the ice ; and the distance from Tmutara-
can to Kertchy was 30^054 fathoms.** Pallas re-
lates that the freezing of the Bosporus^ so that it
may be measured upon the ice, is no imcommon
oocnrrence*} a circumstance which confirms the
observations made by antient historians, and
also proves that degrees of temperature do not
vary according to those of latitude ; both Taman
and Kertck^ being nearer to the equator than

(3) AUkgye Muihu PuehMin*, one of the members of the Privy
Coimea in Ru$siaf pnblished ad elacidation of the ioscriptioiii aod of
the pfinciiwlity of Tmmiaraeanf accompanied by a map explanatory of
^^ 9^og'^:pty of antient Smtria. Petrop. 1794, quarto. See alto
Paiku^s TnwOt inthe South qfRuuia, ^c. vol. II. p. 300.

(4) Ibid. Tol. II. p. 280, 300.

(5) Theie towns are situate in latitude 45. Venice u about half a
degree nearer to the North Pole Naples and Comtantinople are, with
lespeet to each other, neariy on the same line of latitude ; yet snow
falls freqaenUy, daring winter, in the latter city, 6ut is seldom seen
in thefinrmer.

G 2

86 FROM THB CIBCA8SIAN FRONTIER.

^^j^' ^^^^> where the freezing of the sea would

^^v^^ be considered as a prodigy. The cavalry of

Mithradates fought upon the ice, in the same

part of the Bosporus where a naval engagement

had taken place in the preceding summer^

^^' Amomg the other antiquities of Taman^ one

of the most remarkable is a NaunmckicPj or
amphitheatre for exhibitions of naval combats.
This is not less than a thousand paces in
diameter, and the whole of its area is paved*
Its circular form is everywhere surrounded by
ruins and by the foundations of buildings,
sloping towards the vast reservoir in the centre.
A wide opening upon one side seems to have
afforded the principal entrance. The pavement
of the area, consisting of broad flat stones, is
covered by earth and weeds. The subterra-
neous conduits, for conveying water, still
remaia; but they are now appropriated to
other uses. One of these, beneath the church,
is kept in order, for the use of the priests.
When the Cossacks of the BUick Sea first arrived
in their new settlement, they caused water to
flow into this immense reservoir, for their

(1) Strab. lib. yU. p. 444. ed. Oxen,

(2) NaumachAa was a name frequently oBcd by tbe Antienta to
signify this kind of theatre. " Semel triremi usqne ad praximos
NaumachUB hortos subyectos est'* Suetonius in VUQ THb.

TO THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUB. gy

catde ; but afterwards becoming stagnant, and chap.
proving extremely unwholesome, it was again JL
drained. Crossing the area, towards the ^^SdT
south, the remains of a temple appear, of con- ^a«w-
siderable size, built after the Grecian model.
Here the workmen employed in the fortress
discovered a considerable quantity of antient
materials ; such as marble columns, entabla-
tures (many with inscriptions), marble bas-
reliefey and other pieces of sculpture; these
they Thave buried in the foundation of that
edifice, or destroyed in making lime'. Near
the ruins of this temple are also those of some
other public edifice, which must have been of
prodigious size, for its remains cover a great
extent of ground. The marble, and other stone,
in the antient buildings of Phanagoria are
substances foreign to the country : the Isle of
Toman produces nothing similar. The materials
found here were brought either from the CfrimeOf
from Greece^ or, in later ages, by the Genoese
from Italy. Among fragments of those extra-
neous substances, we observed upon the shore
even the productions of the mountain Vesuvius ;
and could readily account for their appearance,
having often seen the Genoese provide ballast

(3) An tttabhUiiiiey broken for thif purpose, it described in p. 46 of
the Aocoont of the Cfreek Marbles at Cambridgey No. XXIV.

33 PROM THE CIRCASSIAN FRONTIBR,

CHAP, for their vessels in the Bay of Naples^ where the

M Am

beach is covered by volcanic remains. These
Prekia substauces, found upon the Bosporus^ may here-
after be confounded with the productions of a
volcano distant only twenty-seven miles from
Taman^ called, by the Tahtars, Coocoo Oho : the
Tchemomorski give it the name of Prehla}. The
eruptions of Prekloj although accompanied by
smoke and fire, have not yet been followed by
any appearance of lava. The result has been a
prodigious discharge of viscous mud. An ex-
plosion took place on the 27th of February
1794, at half past eight in the morning ; and
was followed by the appearance of a column of
fire, rising perpendicdarly, to the height of
fifty fathoms from the hill now mentioned. This
hill is situate in the middle of a broad angular
isthmus, upon the north-east side of the Bay of
Tamarif distant eight miles from that place, in
a direct line across the water, and only ten
from YenikaU on the Crimean side of the JSos-
poms. The particulars of this extraordinary
phsenomenon are given so much in detail by
Pallas^ that it would be useless to repeat them
here. Observations upon volcanic eruptions of

(1) A term used alflo by the Malo-Rtusiaru, to signify HelU It ii
remarkable, that the Icelanders call their volcano HeUa^ which
perhaps, in their lang^i]age» has the same signification.

(2)Vol. 2.p. 318.

II.

TO THB CIMMBRIAN B08POBUS. gg

mud have been published by Miiller^ and by chap.
K<Bmpfer, in Germany ; and different traveUers
have giyen an account' of similar phsenomena at
Makuba in Sicily. At present there is nothing
remarkable to be seen at Prekht excepting
boiling springs within the cavities whence the
eruptions of fire and mud proceed ; remaining,
although perfectly cool, in a constant state of
ebullition'.

Two marble columns were lying before the
church at Tamanf each consisting of one entire
block, about eighteen inches in diameter. Their
capitals were of white marble, (although the
sh afts were of Cipolino :^) beautifully sculptured.

(3) *^ We took a ride with our Cossack host, to see the mire fban-
tains mentioiied by Pallas. The first thing we were shewn, was a
drcnlar area, resembling the crater of a small volcano. In the centre
was a heap of stones, which, with the surrounding mud, appeared im-
pregnated witii sulphur. In one plaee wa^ a pool of water, without
any particular taste. About 600 yards distant was another circle, but
much smaller, all of soft mud ; and in the centre was a little hole,
whence slowly bubbled out a nauseous black fluid, like bilge-water.
By treading on any part of the mud, more matter oozed from the
wound ; for the whole had the appearance of one vast sore. We thrust
otir sticks into the mud, but found no bottom ; and on withdrawing
them, a similar kind of fluid rose through the apertures they had made.
'Hiere was another, precisely similar, at a small distance ; and very
near this last, a well of water, resembling that of Harrowgate, in
taste, smell, and ^Murlding." Heber's MS.JoumaU

(4) Cipolino is a name given by Italians to an impure marble, con-
taining veins oiaehitlu* : this decomposes, and then the mass exfoliates,
fiOUng off into flakes, like the eoatt of an onion.

90 ^O^ THE CIRCASSIAN FRONTIfiR,

CHAP, they represented a rain's bead at each comer,
v^v^ with curving horns, causing a resemblance to
Ionic capitals. Almost all the marble in Taman
is of the kind called Cipolino. Near to the
columns were two large marble lions, each
formed of one entire mass. Statues of lions,
sometimes of colossal size, are common upon
these shores, left by the Genoese. Two others
were stationed before the door of the General's
house. Upon the opposite side of the Bosporus
there are remains of the same kind, particularly
at Kertcky and at Yenikali. Near this latter
place is a colossal statue of this kind, lying in
the sea: it may be seen in calm weather,
although under water. In the wall of the
inBcrip- church at Taman we observed a marble slab
TamJL with an inscription: this we copied with diffi-
culty, as it was covered with plaster.

1 nOZEIAANOZ KA

2. . . EOYZBAZIAEABAZIAEXlNMErANr. . .

3. . . NTOZBOOZnOPOYTIBEPIONIOYAlO . .

4. ATHNYIONBAZlAEXlZPHZKOVnOPI . . • ,

5. KAIZAPAKAI^IAOPOMAIONPYZ

6. . . INTATAKAI . A'PEXANXl NO

7. ZXlTHPAEYSAMENOZKAOIEPn

8. AlO^ANTOYnANTIKAnAIT

It is unnecessary to offer a^mere conjectural
elucidation of an inscription which is evidently
so imperfect: yet, even in its present state, a

TO TBB CIMHEBIAN BOSPOVTS. 91

Talnable document is affi>rded by the remuning chap.
characters, which may lead to the illiutration «-v^
of other inscriptioiis fbond in this country, as
well as of the Bosporian history. This inscrip-
tion doubtless refers to the reign of Mhesaiporis
tie Firat ; because, in addition to his own name,
occurring in the fourth line, he bore also the
name of Tiberius Julius, which appears in the
line immediately preceding : this he had assumed
in honour of the Emperor to whom he was
indebted for the kingdom. His son, Stmromates
the Firstt did the same'. According to a prac-
tice among the Greekst of taking the name of a
Roman Emperor, RkeBmelalces the First, of Thrace,
assumed the prcenomina of Caius Juliu^. The
name of Diophantua, in the last Hue, had been
celebrated in the annals of Pontus and of Bosporus,
as the name of a General in the army of
Afiihradatet, who built the city of Eupatorium in
the Miaor Chersonesxi^. It may further gratify
curiosi^, to observe the singular mode of
spelling the word Bqospobus, in the third line.

(1) PiDfeMor KoM^i oopj of thli inaeripUon bdi^ more perfect
than that whieh mppoamd in the flnt edition of thla lolnme, the aathw
bM been enabled to eoiTect kn eiToi In the iMding. SawremaUi tli4
Krtt WMNW of iUocMporit; u sppean bf the legend In Iti preMnt

(3) Hirt. dee Boi» dn Boepliore, par Curj, p. 43. ParU, 1762.
(3) Stnb. lib. TiL p. 4fil. ed. Ozm.

Qg FROM THB CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP, and the mention made of the city oi PanticaptBum
>^^s^ in the eighth.

-' Seven other inscriptions, found near to this
church, and among the ruins of Phanagoria^
have since been communicated to the author,
by the liberality of a Traveller, whose name was
inserted in a former page'. Owing to their
importance in illustrating the obscure annals of
the BospoTxan history, they are placed here^
together with the observations made upon them
by the learned Professor Koehler^ whose remarks
upon the inscription discovered upon the bor-
ders of the Lake of Temrook have been already
introduced. The first of these inscriptions oc-
curred upon the pedestal of a stattie of Venus,
in the garden of the church at Taman.

AIMOY0YrATHPZ . . P . . KOYAEfYNHANE

POAITHIEYSAMENHAPXONTOZZnAPTOKOYTOYEYM
KAIBAZIAEYONTOZ

The first line is defective \ and cannot be
restored, unless, by further discovery, we can
ascertain the genealogy of the wife of Spartocusy
who here probably commemorates a statue she
caused to be erected to Venus. It should be

(1) See Note (2) in p. 79 of this Tolame.

TO THfi CUIMSRIAN BOSPORUS. Q3

observed, that Spartocus is the name of this chap.

king, and not 2nAPTAK02, as written by ^^^-^
I}iodorus.

The seccmd was also upon the pedestal of a
rtatue of Venus at Taman. We copied the same
inscription ; but it was not inserted in the first
edition of this work :

APIZTI12NAPIZ
TO*nNTOrA*POAITH I

This, and the two subsequent inscriptions, tend
to shew that Venus was held in great veneration
in the Bosparian territory.

A third was found upon the pedestal of
another statue of Venus at Tainan :

\N EGH KEBAZI AEYONTOZZn APTOKOYTOYEYM H AOY

A fourth was observed in the garden of the
church at Taman :

AEYZZAYPOMA
APXIEPEYZTllNrEP ... A
REPINAIOYZZTOA ... AM
OHPIMENAZEK0E . . . lONAIEPEIPAZ . . .
AEITH I AnATOYPIAAIKAeEIEPftZET.
TOYEniTfiNIEPAN . ENTO . B

94 PROM THB CIRCASSIAN FRONTIER,

CHAP. The above, which is very defective, relates to the
temple of Venus Apaturias. Sauromates had
caused this temple to be repaired. Strabo
alludes to it, when he saysS that, on entering
the Bay of Carocondamat there appears, to the
left, a temple dedicated to Venw Apaturitxs. He
adds, that in the city of Phanagoria there was
another temple to the same Deity.

Upon the pedestal of a statue at Taman was
also the following :

AYTOKPATOPAKAIZAPAE . OYAIO
ZEBAZT . . . NHAZHZrHZKAl . .
. • . eAAAZZHZA . . ONTA

TONEAYTHZZHTHP ETH.

BAZIAIZZAAVr . .

This inscription records the gratitude of a queen,
perhaps DyrgataOt which may be the same as
TirgataOj mentioned by TolycBnus. It appears
that she dedicated a statue to the Emperor
HebnusPertincLXj for having afforded assistance in
repelling the incursions of her enemies. KoehUr
believes that she was wife of Sauromates III.
or the widow of a prince of some neighbouring
state.

(1) Vid. Strabon. Qeog. lib. xi.

TO THB CIMMBRRIAll BOSPORUS. 9S

Sauramates, commemorated in the above in-
scription, was the first of the name, and suc-
cessor to Polemo I. In honour of Tiberius^ he
adopted the prtBnomina of Tiberius Julius; as
many medals, and two marbles discovered by
KoehleTj testify. Rhescuporis I. mentioned in
a former inscription% was also coeval with
that Emperor, and assumed the same prce-
wmxna. Koehler thinks that this Sauromates
was founder of a fourth dynasty in the Bospo-
rian empire. Anestratus^ in this marble^ gives
to his king the title of Qesar : hence we may
form some idea of the pomp of the Bosporian
Court ; for besides the title of King of KingSj
and the pruBnomna of a Rmnan Emperor, the
sovereign assumed the title of CcBsar.

(2) See p. 90, of thii ¥0111106.

A sixth was upon a pedestal, destined to chap
receive a statue of Sauromates I.

ArAOHl TYXHI
TONAnonPOrONllNBAZIA . Y
NTIBEPIONIOYAIONZAYPOMA
♦lAOKAIZAPAKAI^IAOPXlMAIONEYZ

BHIO ANETTPATOZXEIAIAPXOZ

TONI . . Z . . . KAIAEZnOTHNANEZTH

9Q OIBfXBRIAN BOSPORUS.

CHAP. A seventh came also from the same place :

^MHrrnpinnozGENEorvnEPTOYnATPOz

ANEGHKEAnOAAXlNIArnNOeETHZAZ
APXONTOZnAIPIZAAEOZBOZnOPOY
KAI0EOAOZIHZKAIBAZIAEYONTOZZINAX2N
KAIMAITHNnANTXlN

The above commemorates the dedication of a
stattie to ApollOf by Mestor the son of Hippos^
theneSf raised by him upon the tomb of his father,
in the reign of Paerisades. From this we may
collect the title of the Bosporian kings.

Many remains of a similar nature are buried
in the foundation of the fortress. Having con-
cluded our researches and our journey in this
part of Asia, we hired a boat, on the 12th of
July^ to conduct us to Yenikali in the Crimea^
upon the opposite side of the Straits ; resolving
to examine all that part of the Bosporus^ and
afterwards to explore the whole of Taurica
Chersonesus.

CHAP. III.

FBOH THE CIHHBBIAIT BOSPOBUS, TO CAPFA.

Ptutage across the Straits — YsNiKALfe — Modem
Greeks — Marble Soros — Singular antient Se-
pulckre — Pharos ofMithradates — Medals of the
Botponu — Ruins — Kertcht — Tomb of Mi-
ihradates — View of the Cimmerian Straits — An-
tiguUies of Kertchy — Account of a Stranger

, who died there — Fortress — Church — Havoc
made by the Rvasiam — Cause of the obscurity
involving the antient Topography of the Crimea
— Departure from Kertchy — Anti^t Vallum —
Locusts — Venomous Insects — Gipsies — Cattle
— Tahtars — Vallum of Asandeb — Arrival at
Caffa.

We saUedfroin Taman on the 12th oi July. chap.
The distance to Yeniiali, on the opposite shore, w.^

Qg FBOM THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, is only eighteen JRussian versts, or twelve English
^-^•^v^^ miles. Prosperous gales, and placid weather,
acrcMB the soon hrought US midwaj hetween the European
and Asiatic coasts. As the sea was tranquil,
we profited hy the opportunity to delineate the
view, both towards the McBotis and the Euxine.
Dolphins, in great numbers, played about our
vessel. These animals go in pairs; and it is
remarkable how accurately their appearance
corresponds with the description given of them
YeMdU. by Plintf\ Arriving opposite YeniAalSf or, as it
is frequently written, JenikaU^y we found a
fleet of Turkish ships waiting favourable winds,
both for Taganrog and for Constantinople. Soon
after we landed, we obtained lodgings in a
neat and comfortable Greek mansion, whose
owner, by birth a Spartan^ and native otMisitrOf
was a man of integrity, and considerable infor-

(1) PUn. Hist. Nat. lib. iz. c. 8.— Prom the Promontory of Takil-
muy$t at the entrance of the Boiponu, Professor Paiku obtained tome
Tery interesting Fpedmens of the bine phospkat qf irofi, or native inm
azure: these he afterwards presented to the author. This substance
lies deposited with animal remains, and generally occupies the caTities
of fossil shells ; the photphoric acid being communicated to the iron by
the decomposition of the animal matter. One of those specimens
exhibits a crystallization of the phoephat, in divei^ging tetrahedril
prisms with rhomboidal bases.

(3) Yenikali is compounded of two Turkish or Tahtar words, signi-
fying New Castle.

TO CAPFA. 99

Illation. His wife was a native of Paros. We chap.
found their dwelling so agreeable an asylum,
after our long Scythian penance, that we re-
mained there nearly a week« A wooden balcony,
or covered gallery, into which their principal
apartment opened, gave us a constant view of
the B^gparuif with all the opposite Asiatic coast,
and the numerous vessels at this season of the
year constantly passing to and fro. As the table
of our host was free to every comer, we dined
with people from almost all parts of Greece
and Asia Minor : their conversation, as they all
spoke the Italian language, was intelligible and
interesting. The natives of Cephaloniaj a sturdy
and athletic race, those of the Morea, of the
islands of the Archipelago f of Candidf the southern
coast of the Black Sea^ Trebisondf Amasarat and
Qmstantinoplef amused us by the singularity of
their dress, as well as by their conversation.
The house of Keridki, for such was the name
of our host, was a sort of rendezvous, where
they all met once in a year, in their voyage to
and from Taganrog*. His windows were full
of books printed at Venice^ in the modern Greek
language. His boys, during evening, read to
the popular poem of Erotocritus ; the I^ife

(S) Mr. Heber*s manner of writing this word has been uniformly
adopted throttgfaoat the present edition*

YOU I. H

IIL

IQQ FROM THE CMMBRIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, of Alexander J with the extraordinary aDeodotes
of his horse Bucephalus; and the History of
the Antient Kings of Byzantium. Their mode
of pronouncing Greek is much softer than ours^
rendering it more like the Italian; hut they
understand Englishmen^ who endeavour to read
the Greek after their manner. Among all the
Greeksy the letter fi is sounded like our V;
and it is doubtful whether this were not the
case in antient times\ The natives of the
Crimea still call the town of Kertchy Vaqwr^
and the straits Vosporj although they write the
word Bospar. It may be well to inquire into
the origin of the very popular poem of JEroUh
crittis; since, although in rhyme, and certainly
of no antient date, the traditions and the stoiieB
upon which it is founded are common among
all the inhabitants of Greece. They pretoid
that the palace of Erotocritus is still to be se^n,
at a place called Cava Colanna^ near Aihens;
alluding, evidently, to the promontory and tengpk
of Sunium. Upon the walls of Keridkts apart-
ments were rude drawings, representing subjects
taken from Grecian history: among others.

(1) The late Professor Ponon believed that the AmtiaU GrtOm
pronounced the /3 as we do ; and, in proof of his opinkm, wed to
cite this verse of Cratimu :

O a' ^Xi'eioc, *Mnrf p wp6fiaT0v, fin /3$ Uymv fiaiiZn.

TO CAFFA. 101

ihere was one of Hercules, in a helmet and chap.

All*

coat of mail, destroying the Hydra; but they \^w^^
knew nothing of the name of the hero, merely
saying that it was the picture of a warrior
once fiBunous in Greece, and they related many
extrayagant tales of his valour ; perhaps such
as once formed the foundation of those poetic
&bles which antient writers have handed down,
with higher authority, to modem times. The
heads of the young Greeks, both male and
female, are full of such stories. As they much
delight in long recitals, these relations consti-
tute the subject of their songs and discourses.
In the islands there are vagrant bards and
vrnpraiwisatarij who, like Homer of old^ enter
villages and towns to collect alms by sing-
ing or by reciting the traditions of the
ooontry.

If we may judge of the Greeks in general, Modem
from a view of them in this part of the Crimea,
ihey are remarkable for cleanliness, and for the
attention paid to decency and to order in their
dwellings. The women are, perhaps, the most
industrious housewives upon earth, and entirely
the slaves of the family. Their cookery is
simple and wholesome. We never saw the
Greek women idle. They have no desire to go

II 2

102 FROM THE CIMKBRIAN BOSPORUS.

CHAP, abroad : if the employments of the house admit
^-v--^ of their sitting down for a short time, they
begin to spin, or to wind cotton. YenikalS is
almost wholly inhabited by Greeks. The men
are for the most part absorbed in mercenary
speculations ; but the women are gentle,
humane, obliging, and deserving of the highest
praise.

The fortress of YenikaUf whence the place
has derived its present nameS stands upon
some high clifis above the town. In one of its
towers there is a fountain. The source of it
supplies a conduit on the outside, near the
base. The stream flows in aqueducts, from a
spring said by the inhabitants to be four miles
distant ; and it falls, at the bottom of the
tower, into the operculum of an antient marble
^^^ Soros alluded to in the preceding chapter*.
This Soros is of one entire mass of white marble,
weighing two or three tons : it is now used as
the public washing-trough of the town. They
relate a story, before mentioned, concerning
its discovery in one of the tombs of the Isle of
Taman : it is probably a part of the Saras
alluded to by Motraye^ in the account of his

(1) Se« a former Note, p. 98. (2) P. 74.

to CAFPA. ]03

Joarney from Taman to Temroot?. From its chap.
inverted positioni we were prevented noticing v^^v^
an inscription since discovered upon the top of
it» wbicb we have not yet been able to obtain.
Personsy residing there, assured us, that when
they began the excavations at Tamarif for
materials to build the fortress, the number
of terra-^^tta vases, and other antiquities,
discovered by the workmen, was truly asto-
nishing; that soldiers were seen with antique
vessels suspended by a string, twenty or
thirty at a time : all these have since been
broken or dispersed. Our host presented to
us one small earthen vase: this a slave had
brought home, who was employed with others
in dicing near the church at YenikaU. They Singular
found a pit containing a stone sepulchre, of one Sepulchre.
entire mass, but of a cylindrical form, shaped
like the mouth of a well, and covered by a
slab of marble. In this cylinder they disco-
vered an oval ball, the outside of which was
a luting of white cement resembUng mortar.
When they had removed this exterior crust,
there appeared, within the ball, the small
earthen vase now mentioned ; it was filled with
ashes, and closed by a representation of the
Meduuis head, wrought in a substance similar

(9) See tbe Extnct firom Motraye's Travels, in p. 83. of this Tolume.

lQ4f FROM THE CIMMBRIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, to the cement that covered the Tase\ In their
^-^'^^"^ core to cleanse the yessel, they had destroyed
ahnost every trace of some black figures upon
its surface. From the rude structure of this
relicp and the manner of its interment, so
difierent from the practice used by the Greets
at any known period of their history, or that
of any other nation, it is impossible to deter-
mine the degree of antiquity it may possess.

MuZf About four miles from YeniAaU, towards
'^^' the M(BOtiSf upon a rock which projects into
the sea, is the point where the antient Pharoi
formerly stood : this spot is still called by the
Greeks Phanari, and by the JRtissians Panar ;
in either language implying a Lantern or lAghU
house. The ruins of the old foundation are still
visible. Tradition ascribes it to the time of
MithradateSf and the modem Greeks generally
bestow upon it the name of Phanari MfTRi-
dati. It was a work of peculiar neceasify,
although long abandoned ; since vessels coming
through the Straits are obliged to keep close to
the Crimean coast, for want of water towards
the middle and Asiatic side of the passage.

(4) This dreiimstaiice is aotioed in the aeconnt of the CmMdjpt
MarbUif Appendix, p. 77 ; where the Reader may find the sabjeet
of this remarkable symbol, and its purport in the Heathen Mythology,
briefly discussed.

TO CAFFl. 105

AoGMfents fireqnentlT hsppen. A large TmrUsk
Bcrefaant-Teaael wis stnnded upon the shallows,
in the aoatliCTn extremity of the Bofparus^ while
we were here ; and one of the Busaan firisFates,
pawing np the Straits, was three times
agroond in Tiew of TemiAale.

The medals of the Bogpana are among the m»
most rare in the cahinets of Burape. We *^
odiected a few in YemkaU. Among these were
certain of the Batporian kings; riz. one of
P€Brisade$9 in rery sm^ hronze ; one of Sauro*
wkMie$ ike Firsts in hronze, of the middle size ;
two of Bkegemporis the Firsts in small bronze ;
one of MUkradates the Second^ rather larger;
and others whose real history it would have
been difficolt to determine, were it not for the
light thrown upon them by Sestini^. Of the
latter description is a small bronze medalt
having in front a bull, butting; and for the
reverse, a lamp, or light-tower, with the letters
IIAPL This is proved, by the Ainsley CoUec
tion, to be a medal of Parium^ although easily
mistaken for one of the island of Paros. We
obtained also other bronze medals: these had
evidently been derived from the same colony of
Myna ; viz. an imperial medal of Galboj two of

(1) Lettare e Dim. Nomis. loprm akane Medaglie nre dd). CdL
AImL TftT. I. torn. III. e Lett. 4. p. 18.

106 FROM THE CIKMERIAlf BOSPORUS.

^?ii^' «/tK5fmtan, and one of Lidnxus; also a Latin
Autanome^ of great rarity, with the head of a
Roman Empress in front ; having for the reyerse,
an amphora^ with the letters D«D. Deereto
Decurionunu This last would have heen wholly
inexplicable to as, but for the observations of
the learned Sestini upon one of a similar nature*.
Concerning the representation given from a fine
silver tetradrachm of Mithradates the Great, and
a small silver medal of Polemo the First, it should
be said, that the coins of these kings were not
struck in Bosporus, neither were they found
there. We procured them, after we left the
Crimea, in the bazars of Constantinople ; but, on
account of their beauty and extreme rarity, as
well as their intimate relationship to the series
of Bosporian kings, a notice of them may be con*
sidered an interesting addition to this work«
Our observations upon all of tiiem will be brief}
and even these must be reserved for a Note;
because Numismatic dissertations involve dis-
cussion, alone sufficient to require a volume.
The Reader wishing to see the subject treated
more at large, will find satisfactory information
in Cary^s History of the Kings of the Cimme-
rian Bosporus ; in the posthumous work of

(1) Lettere e Diit. Namis. soprm alcaiie Medaglie rare delL ColL
Aiml. TaT. I. torn. III. e Lett. 4. p. 22.

(2) Histoire det Rois da Beephore Qminerieii. PariM^ 1768, 4to.

TO CAFFA. 107

Vaillant^; the dissertation of Sauciet^; and, cbav.
above all, in the second volume of EckheV ;
writingB, if not compensating, yet in some
degree diminishing the loss which Literature
has sustained in the total annihilation of those
records of Tragus Pampeius^ which were calcu-
lated to dispel the obscurity of the Bosporian
d7nasties^

(3) Achcmieiudamm Imperium, dTe Begum PoDti, Boepori, &c.
Hislor. md fid. Numis. aecom. VaiUant.

(4) Hist. ChronoL det Boif du Bospliore Cimmerien, par StmeUt.
Pans, 1730, 4to.

(5) Doetrina Namomm Vetenimy k Joi. Eekhel, Pan I. yoI. II. p. 300.
Vimdobw. 1794, quarto edit

(0) AH the medals of the fkmfly of Mithradatei, whether kings of
Pomhu prior to the subjugation of the Bo8poru$, or successors of Jft-
thradates ik€ Greai, have their name written MIOPAAATtfS, and not
M lOPI AATHS. It is therefore extraordinary, that the learned writers,
to whose works we have so recently referred, with this fact before their
eyes, continue the corrupted orthography, and write Mithbidatbs,
which is certainly not only erroneous, but wholly inconsistent with the
tme Oriental e^rmology of the word, derived, according to Vouitu and
Seallger^ from the Persian. (See Gales Court of the Gentiles, p, 832.
Oxoiu itOO.) Neither are medals the only documents which aflford
authority for writing It MUhrtuiates : the inscriptions on Greek marbles
bear the same legend. It is an abuse, however, which began with the
Homaas themselves, and has continued ever since. The same people
who wrote If oiii/ia for MA££AAIA,and If oMonitfa for MASZANAZSA,
and deduced il^^iiihim from AKPAFAS, would of course write Aft^Ari-
daies for MiePAAATH£. Witli the exception of the portrait of Atex-
ander the Great, perhaps there is no countenance expressed upon medals
which we regard with such lively interest as that of Mithradatbs, —
*' Vtr," as it is sublimely expressed by Velleius, and cited by Eekhel/* neque
sUendus, neque dicendus, sine curd, bello acerrimus, virtute eximius,alv'
fuando/ortunA, semper animo maxirnvs, eonsilUs dux, miles manu, odio
in Romanes Hannibal^** With him the line of Bosporian kings be-
gins In regular order ; that is to say , it is freed from the uncertainty which

belongs

108

CHAP.
III.

Ruins.

FROM THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS.

In the short distance from Yenikal&toKertch/f
little more than eleven verstSy or seven EngUsh
miles, we observed, upon the Cliffs above the

belongs to the series of the first and second dynasty, in which the suceef«
sion — whether of the ArehmanaetidiB^ beginning with the year of RomkM
267,and ending 309, or with the more immediate predeeesson of Mitkrm^
dates, from Spartoeus (so written in inscriptions) to P«rtKul0t-4a not
to be determined. Ift^Ara^/ef began his reign in Boipona by the oessioa
to PiBritadegf in the year of Rome 039 ; viz. one hundred and fifteen
years before Christ The Batporian sera begins with the year of Borne
457 (viz. two hundred and ninety-seren years before Christ)* and ends
in the time of Conttantine the Oreat ; so that the monarchy continued at
least dght hundred years. It is proper to pay particular attention to this
circumstance, as many of the Botporian medals liaye their dates upon the
obverse side. Thraeian medals have the same peculiarity : but there is an
easy method of distinguishing a Thraeian from a Botporian medaL Upon
the Thraeian medals the Omega is written Q, and the Sigma £• Upon
the Batporian, the Omega is written m, and the Sigma c. By due atten-
tion to this very evident criterion, much confusion may be avoided.

Polemo the Fint succeeded to the throne of Bosponu thirteen or twelve
years before Christ. The medals of this king are extremely rare. l%e
bead of Mare Antony, or of Augustut, generally appears upon the
obverse side, to whom he was indebted for the kingdom. He was priest
of a temple in Rome consecrated to Augmtui, as appears by a ewrioas
inscription preserred by Cary. (Hist, dee Roie du Boephore, p. 41.)
Immediately alter Polemo, succeeded Sauromatet the First ; upon whose
medals we see the interesting representation of the regalia sent fWmi HoMe
for his coronation. The letters MH, in a wreath or crown of land
have not hitherto been explained. The medals of this king, whether ia
sflver or bronze, are so rare as to be considered almost unique. (See
Eekkei, Doct, Num. Vet, vol, II. p, 370.) Sauromatet, as well aa his
successor, Rheteuporit the First, took the names of Tiberius JuHue, to
which an inscription at Taman refers. PeUerin has preserved the
legend on this medal, entire.' T. lOYAIOY BAClAE«tfC CArPOMATOY.
Sauromatet and Rheteuporit were kings of Bosporus only. tRkeeempark
reigned in the time of TtbeHut, and had this legend on a medal de-
scribed by Cary, and by JBckhel {Doct. Num. Vet. voL II. p. 9tB)z
TIBERIOC lOYAIOC BACIAEYC PHCKOYnOPlC. Potemo the Se-
cond succeeded Rheteuporit, in the 38th year of our sera ; after whom,
A. D. 42, came Miithradatet the Second.

TO CAFFA.

109

Bosporus^ many remains of antient buildings: chap.
and the prodigious number of tumuli^ every- s-^v^
where in view, might be said to resemble the
appearance exhibited by the nodes upon the
outside of a pine-apple. About half way, upon
the right-hand side of the road, appeared a
stratum of limestone, hewn in a semicircular
manner, so as to present an area whose sides
were thirty feet perpendicular. In the middle of
this area we found a deep well, hewn in the
solid rock. The Tahtar peasants assured us
that its sides were those of a vast cylinder of
marble, buried in the soil ; but it was evidently
a channel bored through the rock. The work
most have required great labour, the depth to
the water being at least fifty feet, without
including the farther depth of the well; this
we were unable to ascertain. The Tahtars
draw water from it, by means of a leathern
bucket, for their sheep and goats.

The town of Kertchy, placed upon the site of Kertehy.
antient Pantvcapasurn^^ is reduced to extreme

(1) " Cbkcux an et oppidam Tartaricum Chanoram dlUonis
dbtennim et hamfle admodiim. In ostio (at Strabo vocat) Mseotidis,
at ad eaiii angnatiam, quam Bospomm Cimmeriam ille cognominat ac
twmihtm Pantieapeium et ciyitatem simul ab eo dlctam, situm est.
Sx adfeno oppidi ?el ards illius in rip^ alter^ angustitt illiiis, quse
ampUils unom milliare in latitadinem oontinetnr. TAkANUM arz

munitissima ;

III.

] JO mOU THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS,

cHA^p. wretchedness and insignificance. Not long ago
it was a place of considerable consequence.
The Russians^ according to the statement made
by several of its inhabitants, destroyed five
thousand houses. Even in its ruins, the regal
seat of the Bosporian Kings, once the residence
of MithradateSy will ever be considered an inter-
esting, if not an important, place for the re-
searches of the historian. Our first inquiry
among the few Greeks settled here was for
medals: several were brought, but for the most
part much injured, and scarcely worth notice.
We obtained one, however, in bronze, of a
different description: after bestowing a little
care in removing the hard crust upon it, the
word PANTIKAPAITSN, with every letter per-
fect, might be plainly discerned ^ It was said
to have been found in YenikaU. In front appears

manitUaiina ; quam fbrtaas^ Phanagoriam appeUatam ene, propinqnli-
ftimam AsisB civitatem; k Mile&iii quondam conditam ftuMCy et
emporium in ek nobile eztitisse Straboni placet. lUs arces & Gena-
endbus quondam excitata et munita fbiase Tidentur, et non ignobile
praesidium ibi illi semper habu^re. Cereum arz dlruta est; wm
Turcamm Imperator in universe Tauricft nullam arcem aliam pnecer
Perecopiam ipsam prsDsidio firmare Turtaro sen Chano permittit.
Tamanum arcem, quee in eztremitate TauridL sita est, et Petigoiendam
amplissimsB provincise, quam Colchidem Ptolemsent Strabo Yodtant,
jam contigua ezistit, seniacus sea praefectus ei imposito pmsidio flnno
perpetuoeam munivit." Deteript. Tartar. L. Bat. 1630, p. 276.

( 1 ) Bekha (toI. II. p. 3) notioei the same remarkable legend, as Ibond
on the medals of Panticapttwn.

TO CAFFAt HI

the head of one of the Bosporian kings, and for chap.
the reverse, a horse grazing, with the legend wvW
here given.

The traditions of Kertchv are in direct contra* Tomb of
diction of History : they relate, not only that dat9$.
Mitkradates died here, hut that he was huried
at a short distance from the town, where they
still pretend to show his tomh'. It is perhaps
a Milenan work ; hut its height and size are so
remarkahle, that it is scarcely possible to be-
lieve it to be the result of- human labour.
Among the Greek inhabitants oiKertchy^ it bears
the name of The tomb of Mitkradates. The
Btusians are not contented with shewing his
tomb ; they also point out his palace, and con-
duct strangers for that purpose to the top of a
natural hill or mountain above the town. They
deceived General Suvorof to such a degree, when
he visited the place, that being told it was the
sepulchre of so great a hero, the veteran
soldier knelt upon the ground and wept. We
visited the mound pointed out as the tomb by
the Greeks : it is distant four versts from Kertcht/j
near to the road leading to Caffa. The Tahtars
call it Altyn Oho : they have a tradition that it

(S) Uiikradatm^ according to Appkmt wu Imried by Pcmpey at
Skmepe, in the cemetery of hli ancettort.

\
\
\

] J2 ¥ROU THE CIKMBRIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, contains a treasure, guarded by a vir^n, who
here spends her nights in lamentations^ It
stands upon the most elevated spot in this part
of the Crimea^ and is visible for many miles
round. One thing concerning this tumulus is
very remarkable, and may confirm the notion
entertained of its artificial origin. It 1$ placed
exactly upon the vallum or inner barrier of the
Bosporian empire. This work still exists in an
entire state, having a fosse in front, and passing
across this part of the peninsula, in a northerly
direction, from the Altyn Obo to the Sea of Azof.
Several other similar heaps of astonishing size
are situate near this tumulus^ although it towers
above them all : the plains below are covered
with others of smaller dimensions. Another
circumstance is also worthy of notice : beyond
the vallum^ to the west, there are no twmuH ;
although they be so numerous upon its eastern
side, that is to say, within the Bosporian territory :
neither are they seen again, but very rarely, in
all the journey towards Caffa ; and before arriving
at that place, they altogether disappear. After-
wards, proceeding to the site of Stara Crim,

0) See PaUa£$ Travels, toI. II. p. 281. It is worthy of obsenratioii,
that PaUaSt being unable to reconcile this surprising tumultu wiUi any
reference to the real history of the interment of MUhradatet, or to hit
own notions of probability as all artificial heap, endetfouri to aceownt
for it by a natural process.

TO CAFFA. ]^J3

otlierB may be noticed. The shape of the AUyn chap.
Obo is not so conical as usual in antient tumuli ;
it is rather hemispherical. Its sides exhibit that
stupendous masonry seen in the walls of Tiryns^
near Argos^ in the Morea ; where immense un-
shapen masses of stone are placed together
without cement, according to their accidental
forms'. The western part is entire, although
the others have fallen. Looking through the
interstices and chasms of the tumulus^ and exa-
mining the excavations made upon its summit,
we found it, like the Cairns ofScotlandj to consist
wholly of stones confusedly heaped together : its
exterior betrayed a more artificial construction,
and exhibited materials of greater magnitude.
It seems to have been the custom of the age in
which these heaps were raised, to bring stones
or parcels of earth from all parts of the country,
to the tomb of a deceased sovereign, or of a
near relation'. To cast a stone upon a grave
was an act of loyalty or of piety ; and an ex-
pression of friendship or of afiection still remains
in the North of Scotland to this e£fect, ^^Iwill casta
stone upon thy cairn '^ The heap so raised consisted
of heterogeneous substances ; granite and lime-

(2) See tbe ezcdlent reprcsentatioD, in OeU*$ ArgoUt, of this CycUh
phn work : it is impotiible to obtain greater fidelity of delineation.

(3) Aaptiof IcIXf vc wdyra dvipa AIOON *£NA irapfKiovra nOivai
Ic t6 AwoMtyftivov rovro %Mp(ov ivravBa Kokavo^c fitySXovQ rStv
XMwy c«raXiir«v iir^Xavvi ri)v vrparUiv. Htrod. Milpom*

III.

114 FROM THE ClMMfiRlAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, stone, fragments of volcanic rocks, pebbles from
the sea-shore or from the beds of rivers, pro^
miscuously mixed, and frequently covered by
superincumbent earth. Stones were generally
used in preference to earth, perhaps because
they were more readily conveyed, and were
likely to render the heap more durable. In the
Isle of Tamarif where stones were not easily
procured, it is curious to observe the ingenuity
used to preserve the tombs from decay ; first by a
massive and gigantic style of architecture in the
vault; then by a careful covering of earth; further
by a layer of sea- weed or the bark of trees^ to ex«
elude moisture; and finally, by a stupendous heap
of such materials as the country afforded. The
stones whereof the Altyn Obo consists are all of
the same nature ; and perhaps they are all natural
to the soiL Near to its eastern side is a pitf
probably formed by some person wishing to
penetrate to the interior of this immense pile.
The TaMars have in vain attempted to effect a
passage : the stones fall in as they proceed.
Yet they entertain a notion, that an entrance
was once accomplished : and they describe the
interior as a magnificently vaulted stone chambeTi
formed by enormous slabs, seeming as if they
would crush the spectator. It is remarkable
that they should use an expression signifying
vaulted ; because it agrees with the style useid in
the interior of other tumuR upon the AstaHc side

TO CAFFA. 115

of the Bagporusj and thereby gives to their nor- chap.
rative some internal evidence of truth ; yet they v^v^
may have borrowed this description from similar
appearances observed in other tombs, which have
been opened and submitted to their inspection*

The view from the top of the Altyn Oho is one vicwoftiM
of the finest in the Crimea. A ransre of similar rian
heaps continues along the lofty ridge whereon
this tumulus stands, the whole way to Kertchy ; the
last object being the high mountain upon which
the Acropolis of Panticaptsum was placed, that
is to say, upon the precipice above the sea,
whence Mithradates threw the body of his son
Xiphanes into the waves ; as there is no other
spot so connected with the site of the city, as to
iUnstrate the text of Appiauj who says the deed
wss done in the view of the mother upon the
Asiatic side of the Strait. The palace of Mithra-
dates was in all probability a fortress ; and the
traces of its foundation are yet visible, near to a
small semicircular excavation in the rock ; and
this also is a work of great antiquity. One of the
tombs in the range I have mentioned, although
not so large as that ascribed to Mithradates^ is
equally remarkable. It is the nearest to the
spectator in the series ; the pretended tomb of
Mithradates^ or Altyn Obo, being the last towards
the west, and immediately upon the barrier or

VOL. II. I

j|g FROM THE CIMMBRIAIf BOSPORUS,

CHAP, valhmf beyond which, as before stated, those
monuments cease to appear. It is surrounded,
near to its summit, with a circular wall of stones,
placed regularly together, without any cement.
Beyond this ridge, and these tombs, the yiew
comprehends the whole of the Cimmerian Bosporus^
the harbour of Panticapceum^ the opposite coast
of PhanagoriOf Prekla volcano, and a great variety
of objects, among which, at the time we were
there, the passing fleets of European and Asiatic
merchants, from all the ports of the Black Sea,
the ArchipelagOf and the Mediterranean^ were not
the least interesting. Over all the distant pro-
montories towards the east; in all the plains
below ; and wheresoever the eye could roam,
excepting beyond the Bosporian vallum^ ap-
peared the antient tumuli so often described.
These tumuli, as well as the hills, were covered
with wild thyme, which swarms of locusts were
devouring. The earth seemed also to be alive
with the Bana variabilis, a species of toad^ de-
scribed by Pallas, crawling up to the very
summits of the highest hills^ This reptile has
a smoother skin than the common toad ; it is
smaller, and more active; and it is covered with
beautiful round spots, which lessen the horror

(1) The Rana ritaioria is also frequently foond in this put of fhs
Crimea.

TO CAFFA. 117

of beholding, in such abundancoi an animal chap.
agamst whom all mankind seem to entertain a
natural antipathy\

There is, perhaps, no part of the Crimea
where a traveller will find so many antiquities
as in Kertchi^. The peasants gladly exchange,

(8) Mflton maketit the abode of the inliBnua fpirit

" Him there they found

Squat like a toad.** Par. Lost, B. iy.

(9) ''Ob the Mod of April we found we had exhausted all the
enioiitiea of Tunan, and determhied to proceed directly to Kertch,
aad wait for our carriage at Kaffh. We were indaeed to take this
ftep bj nnderttanding that Tenikald offered nothing remarkable either
ia aatlqiilties or litaation, and by oar desire to give as mach time as
poirible to Kaflh. The regular ferry-boat was then at Tenikal6, and
tte wind direetly contrary. For this boat oar carriage was obliged
to wait : we oonehrea obtained a fishing-boat from the point nearest
Kartell. From Phanagoria to this point is reckoned twelve yersts :
itii a long narrow spit of sand, evidently of recent formation, and
■arkad in Gatlirie'i map as an island. Even where this terminates,
ii a range of sand, readiinglike a bar across almost half the Bosporus,
tmd bardly oo? ered with water, which Mds fair in time completely to
Uoek np tlie navigation. An immense quantity of sea-fowl are seen
on every part of the Straits. The prospect is perfectly nake<l and
teert; on one side the bare downs and long sand Kossas of Tuman,
ind OB tiie otlier a bleak and rocky coast, without verdure or inhabi-
Inta; and the miserable fishermen, who rowed us over, were a very
it groi^ hr fueh a teenc. From the Kossa, where we embarked, to
Kartell, la reckoned twelve versts. Immediately opposite is a roand

r bay, where was a hut in which the fishermen occasionally
Behind the northern point of this bay opens a much larger ;

a few miserable houses, a small church and a Jetty of pllep,
point ont Kertch. The most conspicuous otject is a conical green
UD, flitlier entirely or in part artificial, on the top of which is a seat
andnflng-etaC Hie Russian officer, who took us there, fancied it

I 2 ^"

11^ FROM THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, for a few copeeks^ the antient coins which they
have discovered in the soiL The walls of the
town are full of hroken and of some entire
marhlesy with bas-reliefs and inscriptions neg-
lected or ruined. Some of the latter are used
as steps before the doors of the houses ; or they
serve, as at YenikaUj among other materials for
building. Many of the inhabitants have placed
antient Greek marbles over their doors, by way

was erected in honour of Mithradatef , or fome of his UmSLj. Hie
ihore is very shelring and shallow ; and we had the greatest difllcQlty
to get our boat within a reasonable distance of the land. Hie Con-
mandant of Kertch, a Georgian by birth, told ns that many plans had
been giren for a harboor and quarantine at this place ; but the present
scheme of making Ka& the emporium would probably prerent theaii.
Immediately on landing, we were accosted by a Russian priest witk
the salutation Xpicrbt Avitfrrf. We had before obsenred^ that the
Cossacks used at this season to salute foreigners in Greek. The tamu
of Kertch is Tcry small and miserable; it is chiefly Inhabited by
Jews. There is one tolerable watchmaker, and two shops in the
Basar^ where we saw some English cotton stuffk. The country
around is all bare of trees, and their fire-wood is brouc^ firam the
neighbourhood of Eski-Krim, a distance of perhaps 120 Tersts. Iliert
is a spacious fortress, and a garrison of a LieutenantH!olonel« a Hater,
and four companies of light-infiintry. The men were distinguished
by not wearing swords, which most Russian soldiers do: the non-
commissioned officers carried rifles. I had made some drawings and
memoranda of the antiquities, which I hare lost, but whidi diflbred
in no material point from the account published by Pallas. The
most interesting are in the wall of the church. It is perhaps worth
mentioning, as tUtutrative qf national eharaeter, that the JSmtai
Mijor, who ag^ed to furnish us with horses, and an open fcq^Hip^ to
Kaffk, insisted on such usurious terms that the other offioan cried
out shame, and that the same man afterwards sqneeaed some ftirther
presents out of Tliomtou's senrant. A Couaek would hare 'Mffiffi*^**
such conduct.*' Heher*$ MS. Journal,

III.

TO CAFFA. 119

of omam^it, but without any knowledge of ^^j^^-
their real nature, or even common attention to
the position of the figures ; so that they are
seen in all directions, sometimes lying sideways
in a wall» or wholly inverted. A number of
interesting relics of this kind were in imminent
danger of disappearing for ever, when we
arrived: they were collected as substances for
the repairs of the church. We purchased three
very remarkable slabs of antique marble, with
the view of sending them to Cambridge ; but a
dkpute arising among the proprietors con-
cerning the division of the money, the bargain
was set aside, and the marbles were detained.
They have since been described in a work
published by Pallas, relating to his Travels in
the South of Russia, where the reader will also
find them accurately delineated^ Mr. TweddeU,
of Trinity College, Cambridge, had recently vi-
sited this country, and had left with Professor
PaUas his own beautiful transcripts of every

(1) Set ToL II. PL XVII, ZVIII. One of tfaeae it of feiy remole
date, iifcuiiig to the history of the Botponu prior to the time of
MUkndaim ike Cheat. It has the followmg inscription:
BAClABirOKTOCnAPPlCA^0YTOrCnAPTOK0rA6a)CTPAT0C
Jte. AaoOer inscription on a bes-rellef, written IIonAIYICKOC-
GAXAI, maj peihaps he read nonAIYlCKOCCAXAIPC; hat eren
tteaby, the reading, althoogh OTidently that of a Cippus or oomnion
^ ii Boi Bach ilhistrated.

III.

120 ¥R0^ THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, inscription found here: from these documents
they were published by the Professor, but
without any illustration ; the world having lost,
in Mr. TweddelVs untimely death, and the sub-
sequent disappearance of his journals at Can-
stantinople^ in 1799f as yet unexplained}^ all the
information his great acquirements enabled him
to afford. Upon the bas-reliefe of the Bosporus^
the remarkable representation of an equestrian
figure, attended by a youth, is so often re-
peated, that it ought not to pass without
observation : it has hitherto received no illus-
tration. Perhaps a passive in Herodotus may
throw some light upon the subject. He relates,
that the Scythians killed their slaves and finest
horses, and, after taking out their entrails,
stuffed them with straw, and set them up» as
equestrian figures, in honour of their kings*.

(1) Since this was written^ Mr. Tweddeirs brotheri la a woA
entitled *^ Remains of the late John TweddeU,** has succeeded in
completely defeloping the whole of this mysterioui transaction. To
the surprise and indignation of all literary men (excepting those who
were engaged in the transaction), it now appearM, that a cop^ of
Mr. Jn TioeddeWi Orecian Journal was purloined from the ongimtif
by persons to whose care and honour it had been confided ; bat that
neither the copy nor the oriffinal are likely to appear before the pnbUe,
with Mr. TtoeddeWt own name to his productions.

(2) A similar figure is preserved among the Can^rid(fe MarNm»
See the Account published at the UniversUy Press, I SOS. octaTO^ |y^ 4,6.

(3) Herodot. Melp. 72.

TO CAPFA. ]2]

It 18 from PanticajHBum that the imaginary chap.
Anaehariis of Barthelemy is said to have em- ^-^v^^
barked, for his travels in Greece. Here, in
antient times, stood a teniple of ^sculapius ; in
wbich was preserved the bronze vessel men-
tioned by Strabo as having burst in consequence
of a severe frost upon the BosporusK If any
fatnre traveller should look for the site of that
temple where the present church of Kertchy
stands^ he will not, perhaps, be far from the
fSjgoL Upon the introduction of Christianity,
and especially in countries where it wholly
superseded the antient superstitions, temples
were almost always made subservient to the
purposes of the new religion.

A Cheek merchant of Kertchy applied to us, Account of
to purchase the books and manuscripts of a who died
person, who had died there of a consumption
some years before, and who had been educated
in England. He describes the deceased as one
who had employed all the latter part of his life,
in writing an account of the antiquities of the
Crimea ; who seldom conversed, but spent all
his time in close application to his studies, and
ultimately died of want, although he would

(4) Strab. Geogr. lib.il. p. 100. Ed. Ox<m.

122 ViLOlS. THE CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, not acknowledge his distress. We visited the
wv^w cottage where his effects were preserved. Near
to a window lay an old volume of Ariosto : this
we found to he the only hook reserved for his
last hours, all the rest heing locked up hy himself,
a short time hefore his death. In a comer of
his miserable hed-room stood an English trunk,
with its lock towards the wall. The old woman
of the house said she was afraid to move it.
When we had turned it, we found it sealed, and
a paper fastened across the lock, with a long
inscription in modem Greeks purporting that the
trunk should he sent unopened to his hrother,
in Constantinople: this we immediately ordered
to he done. The inscription ended hy menacing
with the vengeance of every samt and devil the
wretch who should presume to hreak the seal,
and to inspect the contents of this trunk.

Fortre... Entering the fortress, which is now a ruin,
we observed hefore the gate a beautiful marhle
fountain, said to he the work of TurkSf hut
composed of antient materials ; exhibiting not
only Turkish characters, but also Greek inscrip.
tions of more remote date. Over the entrance
is one of the large marble lions mentioned in a
former page, the devices of Genoa. Marhle
columns, together with fragments of marble
entahlatures, lie scattered about, either upon

III.

Church.

TO CAFFA. 1^

the ground, or among the stones used in building chap.
the walls. Within this fortress stands the
churchy a small building of considerable anti-
quity. The pictures there suspended are
among the earliest productions of Grecian art
which came with the Christian religion into the
Russian empire, and they are probably coeval
with its introduction. Four marble pillars, of
the Corinthian order, support the roof of this
building. According to an inscription upon one
of them, the church was erected in the year
after Adam 6265, answering to 7^7 of our sera.
It is a building, therefore, of high antiquity in
the history of Christianity, and it proves the
extent of its propagation in that early period.
There are two smaller pillars of the same kind
placed above the others. The priests shewed
to us a copy of the Gospels, written in capital
letters, upon coarse parchment, quite black with
age and with use. It had been long excluded
firom the service of the church, and a printed
version had supplied its place. The priest
would gladly have sold it; and we should
with equal pleasure have purchased it; but,
as soon as the Russian police heard of
our intention, its removal was prohibited,
although its destruction was inevitable where
it lay ; and perhaps, at this time, it is no
longer in existence.

CBAP

'»"' "^ ia mU ^^ ^^'^ *»f **•«
i"*^^ jftc **"^ "^ rtrw"3 revolutioDs and
/^^' £>w«* ''"'^upp "^ ioliabitaiits which the
^^^^^ tbe A^fl"^" ^gigined, has ahnost annihilated
''*%m^ rtjiw''?' **la,t l/icly to illustrate its antient
'^'^ e**'?' Dy( among all the devastators who
^^l-AgTio ecofOg^ this devoted land, none
oro'ved so injurious to the interests of lite-
(„rt as tte Suss'umt. We dare not to mention
the iugb authority upon which these facts were
^joBHOunicated : it is sufficient to say, that an
iBdividaal, of all others the best qualified to
aflbrd the infonoaUon, repeatedly assured us,
that there is no characteristic of a Russian more
striking, than that of wantonly destroying
monuments which are the most prized by
enlightened nations. In Kertcky, after levelling
to the earth five hundred houses, they left
about thirty poor shops in the midst of ruins,
whose present owners it is their daily practice
to defraud. False in all their public engage-
ments, as well as in their private treaties, they
issued an ukases inviting Crreek merchants to
settle in the town; but no sooner had these
deluded people fixed there with their families,
than the soldiers pulled down the houses about
their ears, using, at the same time, other ind-
midating measures to compel them to higher
duties, than auv even of the Hassians themselves

TO CAFFA.

125

have paidy to whom no exemptions had been chap.
granted. Thus insulted and plundered^ the
Greek settlers demanded permission to leave
the Peninsula : this was positively refused. It
may be asked, why so little has been hitherto
made public concerning the real character of
this very profligate people? The answer is,
that there is no country where such pains
have been used to prevent it. There was no
instance of circumspection and of caution
in which the late Empress Catherine em-
ployed so much artifice, as in concealing
from external observation the true history
of her own people, and the wretched state
of her vaunted empire. This is evident in all
her correspondence with Voltaire; in all her
instructions to her ministers; in the glaring
falsehoods published by her hired writers j but
particularly in the work which she with her
agents composed, in answer to the writings of
the AbbS Chappe. A party of her Savans were
engaged to accompany her in a voyage down
the Volga : as they sailed along, she caused the
Abbi^s account of his Travels in Russia to be
read, every one present being enjoined to
contribute something, either of smart criticism,
or of contradictory remark: the notes, so
collected, were afterwards arranged by the

III.

126 ^^^^ '^^^ CIMMBRIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, celebrated Aleksye Musine Puchfune^; and it is
this pic-nic production which now bears the
title of ^^The Antidote.** We received this
information from one of the party who was
actually present with her upon that occasion;
and one who also added his own share to the
undertaking. Nothing could be more deceitful
than the false glitter of the Court of Petersburg
in the time of Catherine. Pompous plans of
improvement seemed to be the subject of daily
conversation, and were industriously propagated
in foreign countries ; but they existed only upon
paper; like the number of the troops which
liussia has so often affected to muster in the
service of her allies; or like the numerous
govemn-enu and garriaon,. wh^ .ner. .^
serve to occupy the void spaces upon the maps
of her desolate territories \

(1) The name is here given according to the AtMftoii mode of wriUag
it; snbfltitoting only Snglith letters ; as it appears in his own aecoont
of the Tanum Stone. Perhaps it may be pronoonced Alexii MumSn
Pushkin.

(2) Shnilar hc\» are also stated by CatUrOj by Segwr^ by tiie
Prineede lAgne, &c. See, The Reader is requested to attend to this
circnmstance;and to add to these aathoritiesy the numerous testimiH
nies adduced by the author, in the Notes to this worlL, as Tonehera tot
the veracity of liis own personal obeenrations. If it be oiged, tbalf
haTing ? iewed the Rusriant at an nn&TOurable period of their hlatfliyy
and under the galUng impression of a temporary tyranny, he baa dflB>
neated only the dark shades in their character ; in what manner will
the corresponding statement be refuted, which has proceeded firom so
many able writers, in different periods, and of so many diiSerent naUont ?

TO CAFFA. jgnr

Could there be found a native of Rumcu with chap.

III.

a passion for literature, who to a knowledge of wvO
the Tahtar language added also that of the theobMo-
modem Greekj (and many of the Russians speak preraUs
both these languages with fluency,) the antient ^Intieat
topography of the Crimea would not long pby^^
remain in obscurity. Unfortunately, all those
persons whom Catherine employed to travel
through her dominions for purposes of science,
were either solely occupied in the pursuits of
natural history, or they were employed, more
politically, in preparing splendid statistical
accounts of the most wretched provinces'.

(8) Profenor PaOoM was among the number of thofe who became
vietima to the conaeqacnceB of their own too fiiToarable representa-
tiooa. Hairlag poblithed his *' Tableau d€ la Tawride,** printed at
PCfterslrarg in 1796, In which he describes the Crimea as a terrestrial
paradise, (or, to use his own words in the dedication to Zoubif, as
^ Ceite beiU Tawride — eette province ei hewretuemeni diepoeSe peut
tamtee ke cmUurm q[td manquent encore Jt Pempire de BuetUt*') the &ii-
IH«ss sent him to reside there, upon an estate she gave to him ; where
we found him, as he himself confessed, in a pestilential air, the dupe of
asacrifiee he had made to gratify his sorereign.

" In the first stage towards Sudak, a building presents itself on
the left hand, in a beautiful situation among woods, on the side of a
ateep hill, which our Tahtar guide said had been an Armenian conTent.
We eonrersed with the Tahtars by an interpreter whom we hired at
Kaffit: he was a Polish Jew, but had resided several years at Constan-
tinople. Kothing could be more interesting, and to us norel, than the
prospect, and the appearance of every one we met. A MirzOf or
Boble, one of the few who still remain in the country, overtoolL us ;
and I was delighted at being addressed for the first time by the
Oriental safom, by which we were afterwards saluted by all the pas-
sengen. In this part of the country I only saw one camel, a she one,
aad kept for her milk : the roads are too steep and rocky for them.

Hie

Jjgg FROM THE CIMMERIAK BOSPORUS,

CHAP. Almost all of them were destitute of any clas-
ni.

sical information. Pallas^s first and £siyourite

The common cart had two wheeb, and was drawn by two oxen
abreast, like a carriole : it was light, but spacious. Tliis is only seen
as far as Sudak : afterwards, the hiUs are too steep for any wheel car-
riage. We passed a day with Dr. Pallas at Sadak, who asked much
about Messrs. Clarke and Cripps. The beauty of this celebrated
ralley rather disappointed us, except as fiur as the yineyards are
concerned, which are more extensiye and finer than any we saw besides.
Dr. Pallas said, that the wine made by the Tahtars was spoiled by the
oyer irrigation of their vineyards, which increased [the alie of the
grapes, but injured their flavour. The wine we tasted was all poor
and hungry. Sudak, or, as it was explained to me. The Hill of the
Fountain, is a small yillage, peopled by a few fiuniUes of Greeks,
with a very small and insecure harbour. The castle, which is minoos,
stands on a high insulated rock on the east of the town ; and at the
foot is a beautify spring, preserved in a large cistern, with a metal
cup chained to it. I suppose this is the harbour mentioned by Arrian
as possessed by Scythian pirates, between Theodosia and Lampat.
There is a small but handsome mosque still entire in the castle. I
saw nothing which could be referred to a higher antiquity than the
Genoese, nor any thing which I could rely on as even so old as their
erections: It is only after Sudak that the real mountaineer features
and habits appear to begin. In the Vale of Olua, or Sudak, very fcw
of the cottages are flat-roofed, and all the better sort of fiurm-honses are
tfled.

** At Kaya, the next stage, and firom thence to Baydar, the bufldings
have flat roofs, except the mosques, which are tiled ; generally with
gable-ends, and surrounded by a wooden' portico. This distinction
between the roofs of private and public buildings is mentioiied by
Aristophanes as existiBg in Athens :

&aTtp iv UpoXg oiK^otn
Tag ydp vfiAv oUeiag ipl^o/icv EPOS AETON. OpvtO. 1 109-10.
The houses are generally piled up one above another, half under groundy
along the sides of hills ; they are composed of clay, and the villagea
resemble rabbit warrens. Irrigation is practised univenally, and
with apparent skill, where the vineyards are planted. Very little
com is grown; but the valleys are literally woods of frnit-traes.
Water is abundant; and, near many of the best wells, seats of earth
are made, and bowls left for way-iluing men to drink. Tiiere are

wolves

TO CAFFA. jgg

study was zoology; afterwards he cultivated chap.
mineralogy, botany, and entomology. When \^^
resident in the Crimea^ he was too far advanced
in years, and too weak in health, to dedicate
his hours to other studies ; otherwise he might
have contributed largely to our stock of infor-
mation. Hitherto, all that has been published
concerning the geography and the antiquities of
the Crimea was written by persons who never
saw the country. Those who have visited it
were, unfortunately, neither geographers nor
antiquaries.

We left Kertchy, and proceeded towards i>eparturc
Caffd^. After the second station we passed Kertchy,

volrei and foxes, and, of conne, the other game is not very plenti-
fbl ; but there are hares, and a few partridges. Between Lambat and
Alinschta is the way to ascend Chatyr Dag, which we missed seeing,
by the blunder of onr Jewish interpreter.*' Heber's MS. Journai,

(I) ** We left Kertch on the twenty-tliird. From thence the road
winds among swampy uncaltivated sayannahs, having generally a
ffmnge of low hills to the south, and the Sea of Asoph at some distance
to the north, lliese plahis are covered with immense multitudes of
buetaids, cranes, and storks. I saw no i>elicans after landing in
Europe. I never saw an English bustard; but those of the Crimea
appeared to be a stouter bird than what is generally represented in
prints. There are many ruins in this part of the country, and other
Testiges of population. We passed two or three snail, but solid and
veil-bant, bridges over rivulets, which api>eared to be of Mohammedan
woAmanship ; and there were many tombs distinguished by the
tnban. Tlie number of barrows near Kertch is surprising. We
two villages still standing, and recognised at once the grotesque
of the If agay herdsmen represented by Pallas. At night we
rcMhed another village some time after dark, and, after a ftirious

batUe

130 ^^^ '^^^ CIMlfBRIAK BOSPORUS,

CHAP, another antient boundary or vallum; A&d here
we discerned the traces of turrets that were

bftttle with the dogf ^ obtained a lodging. I hare fofgotten its name.
The next day we found seTeral patches of cnltiTation, and the ewrntiy
improTiog, though still full of ruins. On our right hand lay the Sea
of Asoph ; and on our left the Black Sea was now visible. A roinou
mosque was before us. We found, on inquiry, that oar driver had
mistaken his way; that we had passed the turn to Kaffi^ and were ia
the road to Karasubaiar. Kaflh now lay on oar left hand ; and pr^
seats a most dismal prospect as it is approached on the side, llien
is a striking ruin on the north-east part of the bay, which was fiir-
merly a mint ; and the walls and towers, though dismantled, are Yoy
fine. The tower rises like a theatre from the water's edge, and it of
considerable extent, bat almost entirely ruinous. On the land sida it
is defended by a high wall, with loop-holes and battlements : the loop-
holes communicate with a sort of gallery, and are contrived in the
^hi«»irn^a« of the waU, with large internal arches, which give it the ap-
pearance ai an aqueduct. These arches support the upper walk and
parapet. The towers are semicircular. On one of them, in which k a
gateway, are many shields with annorial bearings, not much ^"^'^^
which ascertain the Genoese to have been its founders. Tliere aia
some noble Mohammedan baths entire, but now converted iato
warehouses; many ruined mosques; and one which is still In good
order, though little used. There are also the remains of aevcfal
buildings, which, by thdr form, and position east and west, appear to
have been churches. Turkish and Armenian inscriptions abound; bal
I could find, in several days' search, no vettige whieh IcouUnlp on as
having belonged to the antient Tkeodoiia. (See p. 160, and IfoCe.)
The north-west quarter of the town is peopled by Karaite JewB, •HI
the narrow basar nearest the water swarms with those of Europe. Theia
are the two most populous parts of the town. There are some Arma-
nians, but not exceeding thirty famHles, and hardly any Tahtaia. The
remainder of the population consists of the garrison, five or six ItaUaa
and German merchants, (no French when we w&e there,) and aoaae
miserable Rrench and Suabian emigrants. General Fisnshaw baa eoft-
structed a very good quay; and by pulling down some ruinous boOdi^piy
and a part of the wall, has made a good cut from the north, wfai^
he has planted with trees. They were building a veiy large and eoB*
veaient plaoe of quarantine. I could find no aqueduct ; nor dkl tfaefo
appear any need of one, as there are many beautilul springs bmtfag

out

TO GAFFA. 131

placed along the second barrier of the Bospa- cih^^-
rkms. In all this route we found no other

OBtof dttfinent parts of the higher town, which, excepting the north-

mA qnrler, where the Karaites live, is entirely waste and ndnons.

Ike f|vii|gs have all heen carefully preserved in cisterns, some of them

enHunented and arched orer, with Torkish inscriptions ; and one of

<4hMi in partiealar, which is near the south-west angle of the walls, is

,a M%htfil hath, tfaoogh smaU, ^ing surroonded hy picturesque

nint, and orerhung with iyy and brushwood. The ruins of Kaffii

are mostly of free-stone : the greater part of the houses were, I

■riarstood, of qiud and ill-baked bricks; but of these hardly any

traees are left. None of those still standing hare flat roofs, but are

an tiled, with very projecting eaves, and in the lame style of archi-

leatae aa the palace at Batchiserai. The best of these adjoin to the

, qpay, and are iahabited by the merchants. There are a few buildings

laldy ereetad ; one a tavern, by a French emigrant ; and another a

hfloaa jntirnrifd Ibr the governor, Fanshaw. AU these are of slight

.limhcr firamca, oovared with plaiater.

** Saflk waa eaBed by the Tahtars, in its better days. Kutchuk Stam-
(liitde Conataatinople). I often. aaked different persons what its
popnlaAion was ; particularly an old Italian, who had been inter-
to the Khans : but the answers I obtained were not such as I could
.caaiit. Tet he and the Tahtar peasants were in the same stoiy, that it
had ftfmerly consisted of sixteen thousand houses. All the Tahtars
attiflmtad its dest^tion to the calamities brought on it by the Rus»ian
ganlaon, who tore off the roofs of the houses, where they were quartered,
§K fire-wood. 1 was told by a Snabian settler, that wood^was chiefly
brao^it from Old Krim, and was very dear : the winters he complained
tit aa vaiy eold. Com is very dear, and comes chiefly from the Don.
Aftimml food is not so plentiful as I should have supposed. A young
■itti wlio was employed to buy stores for Mr. Eaton the contractor^
atatad the price of beef, in the market of Kaffa, to be ten or fifteen copeeks
iha ponnd, or sometimes more, and the supply irregular. About three
aailea from Ka& is a small village of German colonists, who were very
poor and deqioadlng : the number might be twelve families, who were
tiien on their furms, the rest having gone into service, or to sea* Qeneral
Banahawy to whom we had a letter, was at Petersburg ; so that I am
iinaWm to five so good an account of Kafi*a as if I had the means of
dcrlring infbrmatkmfrom him. His object was, to establish a Bank at

VOL. II. K ^^^^

III.

132 FBOM THE CIMMBRIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, dwellings than Tahtar huts, with earthen floors,
and an entrance so low that we could scarcely
gain admittance, unless hj creeping upon our
hands and knees. The post here is worse
regulated than in any other part of the empire ;
hut when we hired the horses of the peasants,
we found them to he strong, fleet, and beautiful
as Arabian coursers. Martens build their nests
in the little chambers of the Tahtars^ and

Ka£hy and finally to arrange the intercourse with the Don, by way of
Arabat. The merchants of KafiU were, as nsoal, excessively sanguine,
and confident of the success of their scheme ; and we heard a direct con-
trary story to the one we were taught at Taganrog. We could not leans
whether Arabat had a safe harbour : the road from Kai& thither is level,
and, if necessary, a rail-road might be put up at no great expense, as it
would come by water from Lugan. The bay of Kai& is rather ezpoaed to
the south-east, bat we were assured they had very sddom high winds from
that quarter, and that accidents had been never known to happen. A small
vessel, of the kind which Russia fitted out in numbers during the Turkish
war, with one mast and a vast lateen saU, was lying in the harbour, to
take a Scotchman, named Macmaster, to Immeretta, where, and at Trebi-
lond, he was to act as a sort of Consul to an association which had Just
opened a trade there. At KaflEk we obtained an order from the Qovem-
ment for horses from the Tahtar villages, at the rate of twooopeeks a vent,
per horse. The order was in Turkish : the date was explained to us,
' From our heaUkif city of Kaffli ;' which I conclude was its antient
distinction. The elder, or constable, of each village is named ' Ombaska ;'
but I write the Tahtar words from ear only. The road is not interesting
till after you have past Old Krim ; though there is a gradual impnive-
ment in the cultivation. Old Krim, we were told, is so called, because the
Tahtars believe it to have been the antient capital of the Peninsula* It is
now a village of fifty houses at most, inhabited entirely by Armenians ; bat
the Mohammedan ruins are extensive : there are three mosques, and what
appears to have been a bath. The neighbouring peasants are all Tnhtars."
Heber*t M8» JoumaL

TO OAFFA. 133

are encouraged to do so all over the Crimea^ chap.
even in the houses of the best families, because
these birds destroy flies. The roads, although
excellent in dry weather, now became, in con-
sequence of rain, almost impassable for our
carriage ; the turf upon the stapes peeling off
in lai^e flakes, and adhering to the wheels
with such weight, that they were often entirely
^^^'gg^ c^d we could not proceed without
frequently cleansing them. We passed several
mined mosques. A few Turkish and Tahtar
tombs appeared also occasionally near the
road : these were distinguished by small stone
pillars, with a turban sculptured upon the top,
and sometimes also by inscriptions in the
Turkiskf or in the Tahtariaih language.

We now began to perceive the truth of those i^ustf.
surprising relations we had often heard and
read concerning locusts. The steppes were
entirelv covered with the bodies of those
insects; their numbers, in falling, resembled
flakes of snow driven obliquely by the wind,
and spreading a thick mist over the sun. My-
riads fell upon the carriage, upon the horses,
and upon the drivers. The stories told us of
these animals, by the Tahtarsj were more
marvellous than any we had before heard.
They relate, that instances have occurred of

K 2

III.

134 FROM THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, persons being sufibcated by a fall of iMUsts iti
the steppes. It was now the season Wh'^
their numbers began to diminish. Oh tlvelr
first appearance, a thick dark cloud is se^
very high in the air ; by its passage, ob-
scuring the sun. We had always supposed
that the stories told of the locust exaggerated
its real appearan(!e ; but *^e found the swaMlis
to be so astonishijig in all the steppes^ during
this part of bur journey, that the whole fiice ^f
nature sMitied to be '%&hcealed, 'ie(s by a Ifvilig
veil. Thdy Consisted of 1fm> spteies ; the
Grylhs Tahtdrieusj and^the Ch*yltds MigratothH^t
or comibon migratory Loc'iist The fiHit,')d-
most twice tlie size of the second, becSause it
precedes the other, bears the liataie of 'Serald
or Messenger. The migratory locust has red
legs, and its inferior wings exhibit a lively red
colour, ^ving a bright fiery appearance 'to ihe
animal, when fluttering in the sun's rays. Hie
strength of their limbs is amazing ; when presiied
down by the hand upon a table, they fiave
almost power to raise the fingers : but tids
force resides wholly in the legs; for if one of
these be broken off, which happens by the
slightest accident, the power of action ceades.
There is yet a third kind of locust, the GryUks

(I) See the Viffn^e to Chap. V.

TO CAFF A. 135

mrUUsrinms of Liniudus, which is found near ^^^-
to the Dan and to the Kuban, which is entirely
of a green colour. This insect we have since
seen npon the hanks of the Cam, in our own
ooimtry; and we were apprehensive that such
a Messenger might he a forerunner of the
dreadfol scourge which is inflicted hy the locust
on all countries where it ahounds*. When those
animals arrive in swarms, the whole vegetable
produce disappears. Nothing escapes them,
firom the leaves of the forest to the herbs of
die plain. Fields, vineyards, gardens, pasture,
every thing is laid waste. Sometimes the only
i^ypearance left upon the naked soil is a revolt-
ing heap, caused by their putrifying bodies,
ibe stench ^ which is sufficient to breed a

(S) In the year fiOO,iiuuiy coantrief were afflicted by fiunine in confe-
of imTaget committed by locusts. In 677, Syria and Mesopotamia
I oremm by them. In 852, they migrated from the Ecutem countries,
I, after deTastatlng whole regions in the Wett, were driyen by winds
into tha Be^kOe^an. In 1871, all the com near Milan was destroyed
by tbem; and In the year 1839, all the fields of Lombardy were laid
In 1641, they penetrated to Poland and WaUaehia: in 1673,
tawarms settled in Wale»; and in 1748, some fell in sereral parts
af MMg^4Mnd, particiilarly In the neighbourhood of London, {Sho$&§
Zttiogy, voL Vl.part I* pp. 136, 137.) The best method of destroying
fton woold be to recommend them as an article of food. In the Crimea
ft^f ave often eaten by the inhabitants. Some French emigrants, who
kad baen that instmcted, assured us that they were palatable, and rery
wlioieaunn. Tlie Arab§, according to HauelquUiy eat them fried, and are
glad to get tbcm.

Sg FROM THB CIMMERIAN BOSPORUS,

^^|P' pestilence^ We collected almost all the insects of
^«#vw the Crimea ; among these are some of the locust
kind which are destitute of wings; and there
are others which differ only in trifling distinc-
tions, that are more interesting to the entomo-
logist than to the general reader. But other
i^&^^ insects, infesting the Perdnsulaj require more
particular notice, from the danger to which they
expose an unsuspecting traveller. These are of
three kinds : the two first, from their external
appearance, seem to he spiders ; but, according
to naturalists, one alone belongs to the genus
Aranea^ namely, the large black tarantutof
known in many parts of the South of Italy ^ and
long famous in giving its name to a dance which
is said to afford a remedy for its bite, otherwise
fatal. This animal attains a fearful size in the
Crimea. We calight one with a pair of tongs :
when it was extended in a natural posture,
upon a table, it embraced by its claws a cir-
cumference whose diameter equalled nearly
three inches'. The other, although smaller,
is much more formidable. Professor Pallas
named it Phalangium Aranedides. It is of a
yellowish colour; looking like a large spider,

(I) Those who hare not seen the locust, will find it fidthfiiQy
represented in the Vignette to the Fifth Chapter.
(-2) See also the Vignette to Chap. V.

, TO CAFFA. ignr

whose 1^ are covered with hair. In front it ^?,^^-
has a pair of claspers, bearing some resem- n^^tw
blance to lobster's claws. Pallas assured us,
that its bite had proved fatal, in cases where he
had himself attended the patient. Fortunately
this msect is very rare. We preserved one for
some time, in alcohol ; but the prepared speci-
men was destroyed in its passage to England.
The third kind of insect which is terrible on
account of its bite is the Centipede, or Scolo-
pendra marsUans^. This pernicious animal is
very common in dry timber, and beneath stones,
and in fissures of the earth, in warm situations.
Scorpions also are found in the mountains.

•

Strabo describes all the country between
Theodosia (Caff a) and Panticapceum (Kertchy)
as rich in com, and full of inhabitants^. In the
villages we found parties of the TzigankieSf or Cfipnes.
dipneSy encamped as we see them in England,
but having their tents stationed between their
waggons. Poultry, cats, dogs, and horses,
were feeding around them ; seeming like mem-
bers of the same family. Gipsies are much
encouraged by the Tahtars, who allow them to
encamp in the midst of their villages, where
they exercise the several functions of smiths,

(3) See the Vigwtte to Chap. V.

(4) StraJb. bl>. vii. p. 448. edit. Oxon. 1807.

J38 ^^^^ "^^^ CIMMEBIAN BOSPORUS,

musicians, and astrdbgerd. Many of dietn' are
wealthy, possessing fine horses, and plenty of
other cattle: but their way of life, whethei^
they be ricb or poor, is Always the same. O&e
of the waggons belonging to a party of Gf^psies
which we visited was filled with an eseiniiodif
drum : this mstrument they accompanied with a
pipe, when performing before village dancers.
The sound of the drum was the loudest #e had
ever heard ; and, although intimidating, it was
nevertheless musical. Strdbo mentions the drmn
as an instrument common to the ancient Oimbrif
and he notices its intimidatmg sounds In
their tents the men sat stark-naked among th^
women. They rose, however, as we entered,
and cast a sheep's skin over their bodies^ The
filth and stench of this people wcilte abominable :
almoBt all of them had the itch to such a degree,
that their Hinbs were covered with blotdlte
and scabs.

Cattle.

The pnncipal propei^y of the Taktar gmrtfe^
men consists in cattle. Thousands are seen is
the steppeSj and they are often the propoij of
a single man: among them we noticed many
hundred camels. The Tautidan camel is repre^
sented in Pallas's Travels, from a drawing by

(I) StrabMh. vU. pp. 425, 436. editJlOxon. 1807.

TO CAFPA. ISd

Giesler of Le^gic. It has a double hump upon
its back. Pallas affirms, tibat the camel grows
lai^r in the Crimea than among the Calmuck
TahtarSf a circumstance of no moment, but
directly contradicted by our own observations :
the camels in the territory of the Don CossackSf
and near to the camps of the Calmucksj appeared
to us to be much larger than those of the
OrimecL They are used by the Tahtars m
drawing covered waggons with four wheels,
called Madskariy in which they convey their
JBanilies. The price of a full-grown camel, in
the OrimMf seldom exceeds a sum equivalent
to twelve pounds of our money. Tahtar gentle- Tahtar$.
men appear armed when on horseback, and
they ride remarkably well. Their religion,
bvil^ MohammedaTij consists nearly of the same
ceremonies which are observed among the
Turks. At mid-day, the priest of every village,
itfiker washing his head, feet, and hands,
proceeds with his beads' slowly to the mosque,
where^ having performed his devotions, he
ascends io the top of the minaret, singing out

i«*»Mii*<ttAito

(S) A tOMoy 6f beads, called Tmpy^ borne in the hand for religtona
porpoaei, ezhibits oHe of the moat antient and mdrersal eotomB of
tlie hnman raoa The author found such roiaries buried among the
XdfM of the AnHemt SgypHaiu, in the cataeombt of Bffypt. They are
stni nied by all the Ea$tem nations, and may be observed among the
natirea of the Idandf In the Pat^ Ocean. Balls of chalcedony,
similarly arranged upon strings, are brought from India and China,

140 VROy[ THE CIMMBRIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, as loud as he can bawl, in a drawling tone, the
v^Y^ well-known invocation, " God is Godj and
Mohammed is his Prophet !" The dress of the
TahtarSf particularly among the higher ranks of
the men, is plain and simple : it preserves the
Oriental form, hut without that contrast and
variety of colour which gives such splendour to
the habits of the Turksy the PoleSy and the
Tcherwnnorsfd Cossacks. A Tahtar Prince usually
appears in a habit of light drab cloth, with a cap
of grey wool, and in yellow or drab-coloured
boots. Perhaps the costume was more magni-
ficent under the government of the Khans.

VaXfum of In the last stage from Kertchy to Cqffa^ we
passed the third, that is to say, the outer vallum
or boundary of the Bosporians: this separated
their peninsula from the country of the Tauru
Its remains, as well as those of the towers
placed upon it, were very visible. This wall
extends from the Sea of Azof beginning east-
ward of a place now called Arabaty to the
mountains behind Caffa: it is mentioned by
Strabo, who states, from ffypsicratesj that it
was constructed by Asander, three hundred
and sixty stadia in length, having at every
stadium a turret^ The description agrees with

(1) Sirab, Ub. vii. p. 450. edit. Ox<m. 1807.

TO CAFFA. 141

III.

its present appearance: the distance from the chap.
Sea of Azof is not so great, but the^^oblique
direction of the wall makes its length equal to
that which is given by Strabo^. Constantine
Parphyrogenetes has a£Porded a more explicit
account of the boundaries of the Bosporians\
According to the author, this Sarmatians^ being
in possession of the Bosporian territory, gave
war to the Chersonitesj respecting the limits of
the empire. The Chersonites were victorious
in a battle fought near Caffa ; and by the treaty
of peace made upon the spot, it was determined
that the limits of the Bosporian empire should
not extend beyond Caffa. Afterwards, the
SarmatianSf under another leader, protested
against this boundary ; and, giving battle to
the Chersonites, were again defeated. Pkar-
nacuSj king of the Chersonites, then contracted
the Bosporian limits still more, and placed their
boundary at Cybemicus, leaving them only forty
miles of territory*; "and these boundaries,"
he observes, "remain to this day/' From that
period the Bosporus was lost to the Sarmatians.
P/iarnacus retained some of them to cultivate
the land, and sent others to their own country.

(8) ADowing eight itoAta to the Englifih mile, its length would
cqiial forty-fire miles.

(3) CmuiatU.de Admin, Imp. p. 218. ed. Meun, X. Bat. 1611.

(4) The latter to the same which the Reader wUl flnd noticed in the
first part of oar Journey from Kertchy,

\^ CAFFA.

CHAP. The latter, for tlik kindness, inscribed a pillar
%drv^ to him, and this perhaps . still remains among
the antiquities of Kertchy.

ArriTai at We now arrived upoA the beautjiful Bay of
* CaffcL^ supposed, but without foundation, to
have been that of Thbooosia. The town
appeared covering the southenpi side, rising^^
like a vast theatre, with its numerous mosques
and minarets, over all the hills^ inclosing that
part of the bay. Many vessels were at anchor
near the place; and^ notwithstanding the de-
struction of buildings by the Jtumow^ it still
wore an aspect of some importance. In former
times it had the appellation of *' The Lemt
Constantinople f' containing thirty-six; thousand
houses within its walls ; and, including th^
suburbs, not less than forty-four tltousan^.

FBOH CAFPA, TO TUB CAPITAL OF THE CAIHBA.

Csffa in itspresent State — Barbarous conduct of the
Russians — Inscripiions — XHstributwn cj" the
'Town—Departure from Caffa — Stara drm —
Rmned-Baths — Vitiaofthe Empress — Anttent
Vallum — Remarkable Mountain — Karasubazar
— Aknietchet — Prof essor Pallas — Unwholesome
Situation of the Town — Mus Jaculus,(w ^CT-fioa
— Observations of'Bochart and others upon that
Antral — Baktc HESERAi — Novel appearanceof
the ct/y — FountaiTis — Destruction caused by the
Russian Troops — Causes which led to the Deposi-
tiifn and Death of the late'Khan — Consequences
* ofthBeOptureoftheCTivaaa^-PalaceoftheKhans
— Preparations made for the Recep&m of the
late Empress — Seraglio — Description of the

X44 CAFFA.

Charem — Visit to the. Fortress of Dschoufaut^
kale — Anecdote of an English Servant — Extras
ordinary Ring — Singular Excavation- Jewish
Cemetery — Account of the Sect of Karai.

CHAP.
IV.

JTiftt families are at present the whole po-
pulation of the once magnificent town of Caffa :
Cqffa, in jjj gome instanccs, a singfle house contains more

it! present ' ^

•***«• than one family. The melancholy devastation
committed by the Russians^ drawing tears down
the cheeks of the Tahtarsj and extorting many a
sigh from Anatolian Turks who resort to Caffa for
commercial purposes, cannot fail to excite the
indignation of every enlightened people. During
the time we remained, soldiers were allowed to
condnctof ovcrthrow the beautiful mosques, or to convert
^ui^^' them into magazines, to pull down the minarets^
tear up the public fountains, and to destroy all
the public aqueducts, for the sake of a small
quantity of lead they were thereby enabled to
obtain. Such is the true nature of Russian
protection ; such the sort of alliance which
Russians endeavour to form with every nation
weak enough to submit to their power, or to
become their dupe. While these works of
destruction were going on, the officers amused
themselves in beholding the mischief. Tall and
stately minarets, whose lofty spires added
grace and dignity to the town, were daily
levelled with the ground : these, besides their

CAFFA. J45

oonnection with the religious establishments for chap.
whose maintenance the honour of the Russian
empire had been pledged, were of no other
value to their destroyers than to supply a few
soldiers with bullets^ or their officers with a
dram. We were in a Turkish coffee-house at
Caffth when the principal minaret, one of the
antient and characteristic monuments of the
country, was thrown down with such violence,
that its fall shook every house in the place.
The Turksj seated on divdns, were smoking ; and
when this is the case, an earthquake will scarcely
rouse them ; nevertheless, at this flagrant act of
impiety and dishonour, they all rose, breathing
out deep and bitter curses against the enemies
of their Prophet. Even the Greeks^ who were
present, testified their anger by similar impre-
cations. One of them, turning to me, and
shrugging his shoulders, said, with a coun-
tenance of contempt and indignation, ^kvOou !
Scythians! This we afterwards found to be
a common term of reproach ; for although the
Greeks profess a religion which is common to
the Busnans^ yet the former detest the latter as
cordially as do the Turksj or Tahtar^. The

(1) The Buadan troops are compelled to proride themselTefl with

(9) The mOd and amiable Palloi, notwithitanding the awe In which
he waa kept by the Ruuian OorenuneDt, could not paM in sQence the

destniction

146 ^^^P^-

CHAP, most hMMDtable part, of the injury which the
town has sustained is owing to the destruction
of aqueducts and the * public fountains ; for
these conveyed, together with the purest water
from distant moutains, sources of health and
of comfort to the people. The MusMm soldiers
first carried off the *leaden pipes, in order to
make bullets ; then they took down all the
marble slabs and large stones for building-
materials ; these they employed in the construc-
tion of barracks : lastly, they destroyed the chan-
nels for conveying water, because they said the
water-porters cannot earn a livelihood where
there are public fountains. Some of iHsMse
fmmtiuns where of great antiquity ; and they
were ^beautifidly decorated with marble Teser-
voirs, elhibiting bas-reliefs and mscriptioiis.
In all 'Mohammedan countries, it is considefed
an act of piety to preserve and to adorn the pobUc

^T^^*— ■^^~^— ■ ■■■■ ■■■! ■■■■ ■■ ■■! I — i^—» ^yyy^i^

..detraction. of these beantifhl baildlngB. It is interesting to. leoMik
the caation with which he suppresses his indignation while he thos
commuidcates the fact. ** When I eansed," says he,- ^ the proqpoet
•of this toim (Ctiffa) to be dmwn from the side nest the JBaj, ,t^icfe
were two minarets, sixteen fiithoms high, and furnished with serpen-
tine stahrcases leading to the top, though both ttrueturei haoe slnee
been demoUBhed," Tray. vol. II. p. SS7. Had the Pwfessor. .nwteiwl
tufo syllables further, if he had merely added the word Alas! his grey
hairs would not have saved liim from what the archbishop of Mowow
(p. 198 of Vol. I.) so emphaticaUy styled "thsfrss air qf Sibnia.'*
Indeed few would have ventured even to mention the rirnimitanfc
Sueh oonsideratioos make a JBritcn feel sensibly the blessings of the
Constitation mderwhich he Uves«— O sua si bona norintt

CAPFA 1 47

aqoeducts. Works of this nature once ap- ^^^^•
peared in almost every street of Caff a: some v^v^^
of them were public lavatories ; others poured
out streams of limpid water for the conve-
nience and comfort of the inhabitants ; for
domestic use ; or for ablutions prior to going to
the mosques. They were nearly all demolished
when we arrived

The remains of ancient sculpture left by the
Chredans in Caffa^ had not shared a better fate.
All that even Mahommedans had spared of bas-
relie&y of inscriptions, or of architectural pillars,
were fi^ctured by the Mtissians, and sold as
materials to construct their miserable barracks.
We found the identical marbles, described by in««rip-
Oderico\ broken and exposed for sale in the
ruins of the old Genoese fortress. These ex-
cited a peculiar interest, because they related
to the history of the town. It was in vain that
we scdicited to become purchasers ; the request
waa immediately denied by the General-officer :
" Strangers,'' said he, '* are not permitted to
move any thing from the country." In a short
time, nothing will remain in Caffa but the traces
of desolation left by its Mussian conquerors.
The town has experienced such a variety of

• Lettan UgofUdM den' Oderieo. Bwo. Boimmo, 1192.
YOU II. L

148 CAPPA.

CHAP, revolutions, And bo many different masters, that
even in better times, when it was under the
Mokammedan dynasty, few monuments existed
of an earlier date than the establishment of the
Genoese colony in the fifteenth century. Upon
one of the colvmns bf the principal mosque we
found a Cheek, inscription to the memory of
HeleUj a nun, and a person of the name of
Tagman^ who died, as it is expressed, in the year
after Adam 08^, of the Byzantine reckoning,
answering to the year of Chri3t 819» in the
month of May.

ENOAAEKATAKH

TEHAOYAHTOYOEOY

EAENHMONAXHETE

AIQOOHMHNHMAIOY

lA-HMEPAA-ftPAA

ETEAIOOOHOAOYAOE

TOYOEOYTArMANMHNH

MAIOYirHMEPAnAPAi:

KEYHnPAZAnOAAAM

ETOYZZTKZ-

At the entrance of the city, near to an edifice
once a mint, are some ruins likely tb be con-
sidered as relics of antient Theodosia. They
appeared to be of remote date. For the re8t» it
may be observed, that there does not exist in

IV.

CAFFA. J 49

(Jaffa any evidence that such a city ever existed *. chap.
An inscription in the walls of the fortress proves
that edifice to have been completed so late as
1474, the very year of the capture of the city
by the Turks^ ym^Aesr Mohammed the Second; and the
earliest date of any other inscription does not
refer to a period anterior to the termination of
the fourteenth century. We obtained one in
the Armenian language y the letters of which
were 1)eautifully sculptured in relief upon a
slab of white marble. It is now preserved in
the VeMnde of the University Library of Cam-
bridge : and a translation of this inscription is
given in the account there published of the
Greek Marbles\ It commemorates work done
to one of the churches of CaffOf in the year
1400. Another inscription in the wall of the
fiortress is in the Latin language : this is re-
markable for an error in the word tempore,
noticed also by Oderico. It is placed beneath
three coats of arms, sculptured upon the same
stone^ as follows :

TENPORE-MAGNIFICI- DOMINI BATISTE
IVSTINIANI • CONSVLIS • MCCCCLXXIIII-

(1) a punge hi the *' JExeerpta e MiekalonU LUuani Fragmentit,"
priated at the Elzevir Prew hi 1680, proves that Stara Crim was
Wliatad ta oceopy the dte of Theodoma, as will hereafter appear.

(9) CkeMB Qraek Marbles, p. 8. No. VIII.

L 2

150 CAPPA.

^^y^' The distribution of the buildings in Caffla may

be accurately ascertained. Upon the southern
tion of the side stood the Genoese citadel : the walls still
remain, and the traces of its streets within the
inclosure are visible. There are also numerous
subterraneous chambers and spacious magazines,
of the most massive and gigantic style of archi-
tecture. Several inscriptions remain in the
walls : these, from their elevated situation, have
hitherto escaped injury. The rest of the in-
closure exhibits a promiscuous heap of ruins.
The opposite side of the city was the residence
of the Tahtars: this part is now inhabited.
Centrally situated between the two, and some-
what elevated upon the hills above them, stood
a portion of the city, once inhabited by Arme-
nians : it is a scene of ruins, like the quarter
possessed by the Genoese. If Theodosia ever
stood upon the site of the present town of
CaffcLj it must have covered the ground since
tenanted by Armenian and Tahtar establish-
ments, and have occupied all the shore towards
the north-eaist ; but from all that our subsequent
observations have enabled us to determine, we
have been convinced that Theodosia and Caffa
did not stand upon the same 8pot\

(1) Sinee the pablieatioii of the First Edition of this VoIum, Ikt
author has been iodaced to bdie? e, by a passage in the '' BwetrpUi
i Miehalanii Utuani FroffmentlideMonbui Tartarorum,*' giren In a

CAFFA. 151

Upon the elevated territory above the Tahtar ^^^'
city, close to the walls of the old Arfnenian
fiortress, is a circular building, very like certain
ruined edifices upon the coast of Baia, near to
Naples. It is now a ruin ; but, in taking down
a part of the stucco loosely adhering to the
wall, there appeared a beautiful inferior co-
vering of coloured plaster; resembling the
stucco discovered in Pampeiij and in Herculaneum.
The Armenians, who had probably converted

■jurqicinf Note, that the niiiif of Stara Crim are those of Thbodoma.
Arriam calle Theodtma the duerted city. The same ezprestioii is re-
peated in the aaonymons Periplus, taken from the writings of Seymnui
CkbUf Maniamu, and others. Fossucs (Annot* in Peripl. Anon.
f, 148,) says, ^ Th§odo$la Cqfflu voeari eredUuTf ied mdU ; dUlinguuiU
mdm n) V lL6fay Orwei potterhrei d TheodotiA.** Also another anthor,
** Cem$ti tamm (Lb Qwieny Orbis Christian, torn. III. p. 1108,) Do-
mkmiSammm Tksodo$iam fiUae oUm, qua mme Tusba appeUaiur ;
Ct^ffBBKiLVtro fidMM Ckavmn, ubi Tauro-SqftharumpartuSf et ereviase ex
Thmtdorim ndms, k quA triifinia mUUarihui dUtatJ* Strabo (lib, tU )
■Hitions Xavoy, as one of the three fortresses bnilt by SeUunu and
his foos against the generals of MUhradat«$, Oderieo, (Lett, Idffust.
^149,) who has adduced seToral authorities tending to prove a dlstinc-
tkm between the two places, leaves the question undetermined. He
tUnka the name BioioffM, or Oeovd69ia, was given by the MUetiatu,
sonifying " The Gift qf OoeL" Leucon^ Ung of the BoMporianSp
•est from T%eodoria to Athens two millions one hundred thousand
wmJSmHi of com ; and, according to Demoethenee, the imports from
ttet plaee were greater than from all the other countries put together.
After the taking of Cqffa by the Turkt, in the reign of Mohammed the
Setomd, 1474, the Genoese colonies in the Black Sea successively fell,
aad were annihilated. In 1673, the commerce was entirely lost, and
the Tkraeian Bosporus shut to foreign vessels. Tliis trade did not
revive, until the victories gained by Catherine the Second (Forma'
|«ysl,c.83») a century afterwards, opened it once more.

IV.

152 FROM CAFFA,

CHAP, this building into a place of worship, found it
necessary to conceal its Pagan ornaments. In
the centre of the old pavement of this building,
a very curious bas-relief was discovered, a few
days before our arrival. It was sculptured
upon a kind of Cippus, in a very rude manner ;
the subject being divided into two parts, the
one above and the other below. In ihe upper
part appeared two crowned heads ; and in the
lower, a staircase was represented, conducting to
the mouth of a stone sepulchre. We endeavoured
to prevail with the guides to follow the due
thus suggested, and to search for the staircase,
so represented, below the spot where the stone
itself was found ; but this they refused to do.

The remaining buildings of Caffa are within
the Tahtar city. They consist of very magni-
ficent public baths and mosques, in a ruined
state; a few minarets, which perhaps are now
prostrate; some shops; the Turkish coffee-
house ; an unfinished palace of the late Khan oi
the Crimea ; and a large stone edifice, before
noticed, which was once a mint. In closing
the account of this place, it is proper to notice
a prevailing error, into which Pallas has himself
fallen, in his account of the Crimea ^; namely.

(I) Bee Ttby. vol. IL p. 07.

TO THS CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. 153

that a species of fuUer^s-earth, dug in several ^^y^^'
ports of the Peninsula, as well as in Anatolia^ v^v^v»
and called KeffJkUj has been so denominated
firom Caffa; and that it signifies Caffa earth*.
Its real etyinol<^ may be illustrated by re-
finance to MemnsH's Oriental Dictionary : it is
derived firom two Turkisk words, implying
foam^ ovfrothj of the earth.

Our journey firom Caffa, as before we reached jP^PJ*/^^'i?
it, was continually over steppes. We beheld,
towards the south, a ridge of mountains upon
the coast j but unless a traveller follow the
sinuosities of the southern shore of the Crimea,
all the rest of the Peninsula is a level plain.
The whole district of YenikaU to Aktiar, ex-
cepting the situation of the town of Baktclieserai,
exhibited a campaign country, covered with
grass and locusts; capable, it is true, of the
highest cultivation, but entirely neglected. The
Tahtars and the Greeks refuse to till the land,
because they fear to be plundered by the
Russians ; and the Russians are too indolent to
speculate upon the advantages of industr}\

(S) According to Mr. Hawkuu, this sulMtanee is also found near
l%§bat in BtBoOa, An allusiou to the name of this celebrated traveller
caanot pasa wlthoat a hope being expressed that his valuable obser-
vations, daring a long residence in Oretct, will be communicated to
the Pablic.

154 ™01I CAFFA,

CHAP. After we had travelled for some time over
JX. flu. kind of t.rrito,7, the rorf gr.d«dlyd™w
nearer to the mountams. The appearance of
antient iumulif increasing as we advanced, de-
noted the vicinity of some antimit city. This
Q^ was Stara Crim : the approach to it is by a
bold valley, or defile, formed by a mountain
detached from the southern ridge. A variety
of beautiful shrubs and trees appeared among
the ruins: the mountains were covered with
brushwood. Passing a bridge, whose massive
masonry resembled the style of labour used by
antient JBtrurians in the walls of Crotana^ we
were surrounded by the remains of mosques,
^^ baths, and other mouldering edifices : some of
these still retained marks of great magnificence\
We entered * a building which yet remained
entire. It consisted of one large area, sur-
mounted by a beautiful dome, and surrounded
by eight smaller chambers: its walls were

(1) Aocordiog to an obeenration io the 17th book of StraJboU Qeo-
graphyfConeerning the moontainoot territory extending fit>m thehariNNor
of the SywiMi, or BdUndaoa^ to TheodotiOf hereabonts ooght to be the
■itnation of the latter; for here the monntahiouf district termlnatea.
And that there is good reason to beliere Stara Crim was aotientiy
Tkeodotia, will i^ypear bimk the following citation : '' Atqoe nuiG etiam
urbes ibi nonnollsD qnamTis peamndatSB, amplitndine tamen ambitvmii
soorom et minammy soperfon olim fuisse apparent, et prsMertim qam k
nobis SoihoUk, k Mosds Krtm, k Orsscis Thbodosia appeHabator qamt-
dam*' JBxeerj^aiMiGkaiamsLUuamFragmetUiM. JLBat.ieSO.

(3) Thiem obMrratloiis, made npon the ipot, were the leralt of a con-
▼ktioa upon the •atfaor's mind that the ruins at Stara Crim are thoee of
■a ancient Creeian city. He foond it impossible to reconcile the anti-
quities of that place with the ordinary style of Ttihtarian or of TSsrkish
areUteetnre; and has been indoced, by the extract cited in Note (1), to
fi*iTfff'*f those remains as denoting the situation of Theodotia ; a city
nfaed anterior to the age of Arrian. Hie Legate Bnmhviui does not
•etm to haTO entertained this opinion ; but has identified the situation of
Simrm Crim (a name implying the Old CHm) with that of Taphr^i
piTfd hj some Writers upon the isthmus of the Peninsula, where there
aie DO appearances answering to his description. It is evident, however,
that his obserratioiis apply to these ruins. The words of BraniovUit
an as lUllow : ^ Cbbmum, seu ut It Turtaris Crimum dicitur, dvitas et
an mmto aotiquissimo, maximo ac prtealto, magnitudine ac celebritate
idlqnis eiritatibus Tanrics, Chersonesi mediterranesB, (nam Ptolemaeus
lis Baninat) admodhm dissimllis est. PtoIem»o fortiis^ Taphros,

Plinio

TO THE CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA. 155

covered with antient stucco, coloured in dis-
temper. Such a style of architecture is seen
in those buildings which are vulgarly called
temples of Venus and Diana^ at Baia in Italy;
and which were originally public baths belonging
to that fashionable watering-place of the antient
Roman^. The ceremonies, the uses, and abuses
of the bath, were so generally adopted, and
preyailed with so little alteration among the
antient Heathens, that there is reason to believe
they were invariably practised by the inhabitants
of Crreecej Italy ^ and more Oriental countries^.

(S) Hie pipes and steam-channels existed In the year 1793. In the
bath caUed the Ttmple qf Vemu^ e? cry appearance corresponded with
the jmUie (olAs of the .EStijf«m empire. At the Conquest of Conttan-
HmopU by the Turkif Its conquerors preserred the sumptuous baths
figaiidiii the city, and these to this day offer a model of the^ediflces at

IV.

156 ™^^ CAFFA,

CHAP. The sculpture and the paintmg, visihle in those
edifices, were frequently employed in licentious
and detestable representations, such as were
consistent with the orgies whereby public
bagnios were degraded: and those who are at
a loss to reconcile the pictured abominaticms of
Baia with the solenmities of a temple^ may

Plinio veio Taphrse cam antiquiB nominatam ftiiBse placet. lUa pMtre-
mis Jam temporibus ante OenaenBimn in Tauricam adfentom iimaximo
popiilo Mahometico, qui ez AtUt ao torn migfaTerant, ouka et InliaUtata
fnisae videtur. Kam templa sea delubra antiqua Hahometica noa mIob^
in ciritate ips&y Teriim et ultra civitatum, plurima admodiim cum
characteribafl Chaldaicls in grandloribus saxia ezcisis conspicinntur.
TnzcfB seu TWtari non pauci admodiim inool», Gneci famen rariofea,lioc
referunt, quod majores sni ooaatanter meminerint, earn clntatem i^ Per-
earum olim gente inhabitatam, pnegtantem ac primariam ferft offidnam
meehanicarum artium quondam earn eztitisse. Liquet land ex ipait
TuioiB, et loci ampUtudinCy arbem eam quondam dailsaimam, et mazi-
mam gentium colonram extitisee. Tartari ab eo loco Crimenses Tulgd
nunc appellantur. Offieinam mOnetariam qoam Chanoa codit, in e&
civitate perpetuam habcnt. In arce, qun maxima ad civitatem aaty
uxores Chanorum perpetud aaieryantur et conaenetcunt." Martkii
BraniovU Tartaric. Z. Bat. 1630. The author of the anonymous Periplaa
of the Euxine statea the diatance firom the city of PantietgiHBum to Cfan-
merium as equal to 250 ttadia, or ihHrty-on^ mUea tuxtfiurUmffi : and
this coincides with the distance of ^erteky Arom Stara Crkn. *^ 'Aw^
Sk UavTueairalov x6\tkte Uiq Ki^cplov ffradia Vft\ Sic emm U$*
Vomui in Peripl. Ananifin. Pont. Buxin. p. 142. L, Bat. 1097."
Vossius adds, '* PtoUmmut Jume quoqwt mediterrtmeam faeit : iMvcja
quA rcUioM. Cave auiem Cfn^undas id oppidum cum Mero ^uidem
fiominisy quod Iv ry frtpaig, atque itidem in ore Boepori/* The fmet !•»
that Stara Crim is theplaoe alluded to by Ptolemy; answering, bj its
situation, to the distanoe assigned, both from Sudak, and from
p<Bumf by the author of the anonymovs Periplos.

TO THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. 15y

perhaps mwe easily account for their appear- c?_^p-
anoe as the ornaments of a Pagan hath. ^^-v^

In the midst of these very . picturesque rutns> viua of
sheltered hy mountains^ and shaded hy heaa* preas.
tifiil trees, stands one of those villas erected
for the Empress Catherine, when she visited
the Crimea. At every place where she halted
for repose, or was expected to pass a night,
she fonnd a palace prepared for her reception.
Many of these are still maintained : others, like
this at Siara Crwi^ are suffered to decay, lliey
usually consisted of a bed-chamber for the
Empress^ with a bath adjoining, a ball-room^ a
small chapel, and a few other apartments for
her guards and attendants. Nothing at present
interrupts the melancholy solitude of her villa
at Star a Crim.. Some of the chambers were
filled by heaps of the common Uquorice-robt,
collected, for the use of the military hospitails^
from the neighbouring woods, where it grows
wild, and attains great perfectioiL Upon the
iBountains to the south of this place, in one
of those wild and secluded situations where
zealous devotees delight to fix their habitation, -
is an Armenian monastery : we could obtain no
other information concerning it, than that it
was worth seeing, on account of the sur-
rounding scenery.

158 ra<»< caffa;

CHAP. As we leift Stara Orim to proceed towards
Karcuubazar, we passed another vallum^ still

IV.

r^tm. very entire : and judging of it from its length,
it must have been once a boundary of great
importance. Hence, crossing continual steppes^
and always over a flat country, with a view of
the mountains towards the south, we came to
Karasuhazaf^ . Before we reached this place, a
Remark- . vcrv remarkable mountain appeared upon our
tain. right hand, being quite flat at the summit, and
surrounded by precipices so perpendicular,
with such even surfaces, that it seemed like a
work of art, as if it were intended for a prodi-
gious fortress. Upon the top of this mountain
the Tahtars assembled in council during the
last rebellion agamst their Khan; this extra-
ordinary spot being considered by them as an
appointed place of rendezvous in every crisis^.
The situation is well suited for such a meeting ;
and a most sublime subject might have bera
afforded for the pencil of a Salvatar^ or a
Mortimer, when the rebel chiefs of Tahtary^

(1) The distinctions of Modk and wkUe water seem to eonstitote miay
of the appellations of riyen and lakes in all Mohdunmedan countries.
Kara 8u Bazar signifies nothing more than the Black-Water Mariei ;
the name of a river, called Kara 8u, or Blaeh Water, being J<rined to
bazar, the common word for market.

(3) Accordfaig to Pallat, it is called Akkaya, or the White Mount, bj
the Tahtari ; and Skirimkaya Oara by the Ruetiam, alluding to the
use made of it by the noUes of Shirituky. Travels, vol. II. p. 268.

TO THB CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. igg

nKmnted upon their fleet coursers, and attended chap.
by their chosen bands in the savage dresses of
the oountry, held their conference in this aerial
sditude.

Karagi^azar has not sufiered so much as ^^^ramr
other towns of the Crimea since its conquest
by the JRussiani ; yet it exhibits many ruins, as
the sad memorials of their dominion : these,
with a long street of shops, are perhaps all
that a traveller would notice. The Tahtar
conneteries have been divested of tomb-stones,
to constitute materials for building; although
the oountry affords most excellent limestone,
which might be removed from the quarries with
almost as little trouble as the destruction of the
grave-stones occasions to the Russians* Many
of the houses are built with unbaked bricks,
which, after being formed in a mould, have been
hardened merely by exposure to the sun and
air. In this maimer the antient Grecians some-
tunes fiekbricated earthen vessels, when they
wished to present offerings of the purest cli^
in the temples of their Gods\ The commo-
dities of the Crimea are said to be purchased at
a cheaper rate in Karasubazar than in any other

(3) Appendix to GrtA MwrbU$, p. 71.

162 FROM CAFFA.

^iy5' volent Host, he could not have lived to make
this grateful acknowledgment. Having pre-
scribed for him, the worthy Professor admini-
stered every medicine with his own hands;

him as his own son, at last restored him to
health. When he recovered, the same exemplary
friend, from his own collection, provided him
with drawings, charts, maps, books, antiquities,
minerals, and whatsoever else might serve to
gratify his curiosity, or to promote the object
of his travels; accompanying him upon the
most wearisome excursions, in search, not
only of the insects and plants of the country,
but also of every document likely to illustrate
either it^ antient or its modem history^ The
declining years of this celebrated man have
been embittered by a variety of unmerited
affliction: this he has borne even with Stoical
philosophy. Splendid as his residence appeared»

(1) If either he or hii flunily should erer eait their ^jres upon then
peget, they will here find the only testimony of gratitode we have been
ahle to render ibr snch nnezampled bene?olenee. His Mmhicss kH
indeed been HI requited; the political difibrenees between JOmgkmd mad
RtudOf together with other untoward cbcomstanoes, ba^epnt it ovt d
oor power to Iblfil even the few commissions with irtiich hahonoaradM^
when we parted. The profile of hfan, engraTed as a Vi^mgiU to tU
Chapter, was taken from the life by the anlhor: as it oAn a oMift
striking resemblance of his features, It is hoped its introdoetloa will aot
be deemed a superfluous addition to the number of engraTingi.

TO THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. l63

ihe idr of the place was bo bad, that the most ^^^•
rigid abstinence from every kind of animal food
was insuflScient to preserve his^ family from
fevers. We left him resolved to pass the
remaining portion of his life in cultivating vine-
yards, among the rocks of Sudak, upon the
south coast of the Peninsula. There was reason
to hope, that, upon the death of Paul, he would
have been called to honours and emoluments ;
but subsequent travellers in Mtissia do not
furnish intelligence so creditable to the admini-
stration of the new sovereign. When the late
Empress Catherine sent him to reside in the
Orimeaf with a grant of lands in the Peninsula^
it was intended for the re-establishment of his
health, and as a reward for his long services :
neither of these purposes had however been
accomplished. A magnificent establishment, in
the midst of an unwholesome air, was all the
reoompence he had obtained. Owing to these
circumstances, we find him, in the sixtieth
year of a life devoted to science, opening his
last publication with an allusion to *^ the
disquietude and hardships which oppress him in his
present resideticet and embitter his declining day^y
We used every endeavour to prevail upon him
to quit the country, and to accompany us to

(S) See Tr^ae^ to Voi. 11. ofhis Travels in the South o/BusHa,
VOL. II. M

IV.

1Q^ FROM CAFFA,

CHAP. England : which he often expreesed a wish {
do : hut the advanced period of his life, adde
to the certainty of having all his property i
Russia confiscated) prevented his acquiescence
The ceremony of his daughter's marriage wit
a German officer took place during our resi
dence with him in the Crimea, and was cek
braied according to the rites of the Gte^
Church ; so that, being absolved from alnuM
every tie that might require his presence 9
the country, there was reason to hope he wodi
have listened to our proposals. By acce£i^
to them, his life might have been prolonged
and his publications completed. Our entreatiM
however, were to no effect ; and, perhaps, bdbM
this meets the public eye, our friend and bell
factor will be no more^

-A

Owing to the influence of Professor .
much of the injury had been prevented
Ahmeichetj in common with other towns of
Crimea^ would have sustained. Many erf

(1) The liberality of Pallas, and an almost unpardUmiftlt
ference to the piracy of his writings, may be assigned as thei
certain of his compositions have appeared in this eountry
due acknowledgment being made of their author. The ^
Map of the Countries comprehended hettoeen the Slack 8m
Caspian." Land. 1788; was written entirely by ^t^km^
informed us.

TO THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. Jgj

^m buildings had been suffered to remaiq^ ^^y^-
the public fountains were still unimpaired. «^^v^
place owed all its importance to the cir-
tance of its being the residence of the
amor-general of the Cfrimea, a veteran
r of the name of Michelsonj formerly re-
ed for the service he rendered to Utissia,
B defeat of the rebel Pugatchef. In other
cts, it is one of the least eligible situ-
9 in the Crimea. Its inhabitants are subject
"equent fevers duringf the summer, and Unwhoie-

, _ - t • \ some Ditu-

rater is less salutary than in other parts ationof
e Peninsula. Fruit and vegetables, which
ommon in the southern villages, can only
iTocured at Akmetchet by purchase from
^ahtars. As a town, it has a mean and
isignificant appearance : the streets are
w, unpaved, and filthy, containing only a
ihops, which are maintained entirely by
b. The SalgiTy hardly deserving the name
river, flows in a valley near the town,
neighbourhood abounds with game; so
he officers of the garrison are enabled to
3 themselves with almost every kind of
3ean chace. They hunt the stag, the fox,
the hare. Hawking is also a favourite
De; the Tahtars being very skilful in
ng birds for that purpose. A few days
we took up our residence with Professor

164 ' ^^ cint

ritoM

CHA7
IV.

. rarietf oi "»"•«» » "»>' " " -" -«-• < ""«
^^^ fc»m* • ^fiican Jerhoa. We saw it after-

^^ \SJ'a. ^/®P^ ***^°''^^ ^* ^ "°* ^^^^^^^^

Vi^ ^ere or in the Crimea. It ay be called
Kangoroo in miniature^ as it has the same
^j^g . but it is smaller than a rabbit ; and it
^gjgts iKi^^ ^^^ ^^ Kangaroo^ with its tail
Ij, leaping. That which Professor Pallas received
i^gg a pregnant female, containing two young
ones. Its colour was a light grey, excepting
the belly : this was almost white. Its fore-feet
are attached to its breast without any legs ; so
that, in all its motions, it makes use only of its
binder quarters, bounding and making sur-
prising leaps on being disturbed. We after-
wards caught one in the steppes; this we'stufibd,
and brought to England. Professor Pallas him-
self did not seem to be aware that the Mus
Jcumlusj which was the name he gave it% is
the animal mentioned by Shaw, in his account
of Barharjf ; nor was it until we became enabled

(1) AlluBion has been already loade to the eonfiulon Introdoced
in zoologfy, by the different namee, and discordant accoimtSy which
traTcUen have gifen of this animal. See p. 925 qf former Volume.

(2) See TraveUy Yol. II. p. 457.

(3) Shaw'i Trafele, p. 177, 4to. ed. London^ 1757.

TO THB CAPITAL OF THE CRIMBA. I67

to make the coippariscHi ourselves, in Africa^ ^f^*

that we discovered the Jerboa to he the same ^^^^^^

kind of quadruped we had hefore known in

the Crimea. Bochart supposes this little animal obeenra-

to be the Saphan of the Scriptures^: ** The high chart upon

lulls are a refuge for the wild goats, and so

are the stony rocks for the Saphanrdm .-" this

our Translation renders <* Conies!* Shaw is

however undecided upon the subject; but

lie supposes the Jerboa, from the remarka-

Ue disproportion of its fore and hinder legs,

may be taken for one of the two-footed rats

mentioned by Herodotus and by other authors^

The whole merit of either of these observations,

if there be any, is due, first to the learned

Bachartf and afterwards to the labours of

Haym, in the illustration of a medal of Ch/rene^

where this animal is represented ; but Shaw^

after the introduction of those observations in

his work^ not only does not acknowledge whence

he derived the information, but even asserts

that the animal described by Haym was not

the Jerboa. It seems clear that it was ; although.

(4) See fioeloH, JTIfrozot'con. ^an II. cap. 33. Xofui. 1083. <' Pro-
tetar Smflktm non ene caniculaniy eed majorb miiriB geniii| in PaliBt-
tiaftt'' Ice. ace.

(5) Sbsw't TntYdf, p. 177. See also the Authon dted by him.
JIcrwM. Mdp. Theofph. apud JSHan. Hut. Anim. Jib, zt.c.96. PAo-
titu, ibid. Aritt. diMwrib. jBffn*.

IV.

168 FROM CAFFA,

CHAP, iu tiig engraving published by Haym^ the fore-
feet be represented rather too long. A century
ago they did not pay attention to minute accu-
racy in such representations; and nearly this
time has elapsed since the work of Haym
appeared^ His mode of expressing himself
is certainly somewhat equivocal, because he
saySy ^^when it ran^ it went happing like a
bird ;** but the words *' e sempre camina sopra
dttepiedi solamente^^^ as well as *^ salta molt* alto
guaTuT h spavuritOy*' when added to the engraved
representation, plainly prove what the animal
was. It is generally esteemed as an article of
foiDd, in all countries where it is found. It
burrows in the ground like a rabbit ; but seems
more to resemble the squirrel than either that
animal or the rat. Its fine dark eyes have all
the lustre of the antelope's. Haym says, the
smell of it is never offensive when kept domes-
tic ; and indeed it may be considered one of
the most pleasing harmless little quadrupeds
hitherto described. Gmelin observed it in
the neighbourhood of Woronetz in 1768 : Meg-
serschmiedj in Siberia; ond Hasselguist,iaJSgypt^.

(1) Ha3rin'B Tesoro Britannieo was published in 1720. He had the
animal alire; and a very curious account of it is given in the leeeod
Tolume of his work, p. 124.

(2) Journal des Savans Voyageure, p. 76.

TO THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. |gg

When our army was encamped near Alexandria^ chap.
during the late campaign in Egypt^ the soldiers
preserved some of these animals in boxes, and
fed them like rabbits.

erixi*

From Akmetcket the distance is only thirty •^«**-
ffersU^ to Baktcheserai, once the residence
of the Khanj and the Tahtar capital of the
Crimea. As it was our intention to make the
tour of all the south part of the Peninsula^ we
lost no time in setting out for this place. We
met several caravans, principally laden with
cucumbers, of such immense length and size,
diat the statement of their dimensions will per-
haps not be believed. We measured some that
were in length above two feet. There is no
article of food so grateful to a Mtissian as the
salted cucumber ; and all the inhabitants of the
Crimea cultivate the plant for the sake of the
pickle it affords. They have varieties of this
v^etable, which are unknown in England;
among others, one that is snow-white ; and it is
this singular variety which attains the astonishing
size -before mentioned, without either running
to seed or losing any of its crisp and refreshing
flavour. The country, as we advanced, be-
came more diversified with wood. . Near to the

(3) Twenty English miles.

1>^0 BAKTCHESERAI,

CHAP, villages we saw some good crops of com and
K^^>r^^ of hay. It was before observed, that a tra-
veller, unless he visit the southern coast, may
pass over all the rest of the Crimea^ and conclude^
from its appearance, that the whole country is
a flat and dreary steppe: Baktcheserai is the
first object, in the journey from YenikaU to
Sevastopolef which interrupts the dull uniformity
of at least two-thirds of the Peninsuld, to the
north of Tchetirdagh and of the other mountains
facing the Bhick Sea upon the southern side. It
^^^oi is one of the most remarkable towns in Europe :
9eraL fi^st, in the novelty of its manners and customs ;
these are strictly Oriental^ and betray nothing
of an European character : secondly, in the site
of the town itself ; occupying the craggy sides
of a prodigious natural fosse between two high
mountains, somewhat like the appearance exhi-
bited by Matlock in Derbyshire. The view
breaks all at once upon the traveller, exhibiting
a variety of objects in a most irregular and
scattered manner : while bubbling fountains,
ruiming waters, gardens, terraces, hanging vine-
yards, and groves of the black poplar, seem to
soften the horror of rocks and precipices, and
even to make them appear inviting. The reli-
gious veneration entertained by the Tahtars
Fountainff. ^^^ their foimtains induces them to spare no
expense in order to supply them with the

CAHTAL OF THE CRIMEA. I7I

purest water. These fountains are almost as ^^^'
necessary to the ceremonies of the mosque
as they are ornamental to the town; since
every true Moslem washes his head, his heard,
his hands, and his feet, hefore he proceeds to
prayen The numher of fountains is so great
in Baktcheserah that they are seen in all parts
of the city; water flowing from them day and
night, cold as ice and clear as crystal. One
of these fountains had not less than ten spouts,
whence the purest streams contmually fell upon
slahs of marble. Four times in every twenty-
four hours the Tahtars^ invoked by their Mullets
from the lofty minarets, are seen assembled,
performing their ablutions, and proceeding to
their mosques. If Pahtfs position be admitted,
that '^a man who is in earnest about religion
cannot be a bad man^*' the Mohammedans, being
more in earnest than any sect of worshippers
upon earth, are entitled to respect ; and it must
be confessed, we never beheld a Moslem at his
prayers without feeling a kindling awe, inspired
by the sincerity of his devotion. No utterance
escapes his Ups, exceptmg the name of God,
which is heard at intervals, accompanied by
low impressive sighs. His whole soul seems to
be absorbed in intellectual communion with the

(1) PaUu'i Sermons, Disci. Lond. 1808.

172 ' BAKTCHESERAI,

^^P- object of his worship ; nor can any thing diyert
y^^r^ his attention\

S^^iSled '^^ describe what Baktcheserai was, it would
f^w"' ^ necessary to convey ideas at least adequate
to the present appearance of its ruins : and this
is very difficult The savage and the wanton
barbarity of the Russiam found in the magnifi-
cence of this capital wherewith to exercise, in
its full scope, their favourite passion for destruc-
tion. The city was divided into several depart-
ments ; the Greek colony alone occupying one
entire and extensive valley. This they entirely
demolished ; not leaving one stone upon another.
The palace of the Khauy in the centre of the
town, was the edifice where he usually resided ;
but he had a favourite and more pleasing retire-
ment, in a magnificent mansion most delight-
fully situate, beneath a mountain upon the
sloping side of a beautiful vale. This they so

(1) The efficacy of inward devotion aa contrasted with external offer-
ings, is recommended with powerful simplicity in a specimen of early
English poetry, as old as the time of Queen Elizabeth^ presenred in
the Travels of " Certaine Englishmen into Jarre Countries,** printed in
1609. It is the end of a Latin inscription in the Church at Cologne (on
the offerings of the Three Kings), thus translated into Engtish metre.
'< For Gold present a perfect heart;
For Myrrh admit him tears ;
For FranUneenMe, powre from thy brest
A fume of humble praiers !*'

CAPITAL OJk THE CRIMEA.

completely erased, that without a guide to ^^
the spot, no one can discover even where it ^
stood. Of the rest of the city not ahove one
third now remains. If we were to detail half
the cruelties, the extortions, the rapine, and
the barbarity practised by the Hussians upon
the devoted inhabitants of the Crimea, and
their deluded Khan, the narrative would exceed
belief. We have the authority of one of their
commanders, whom we shall not name, for
the following statement. When the Mullas, or
Tdhtar priests, ascended the minarets at mid-
day, to proclaim the hour of noon, according
to their usual custom, the Russian soldiers
amused themselves by firing at them with
muskets ; and in one of these instances a priest
was killed. The repugnancy of every English
reader to credit such enormities may lead him
to doubt the veracity of the representation,
although it be given, as it was received, from
an eve'Witness of the fact.

The capture of the Crimea excited the atten* cau
tion of all Murope ; but the circumstances which to t

po8i

caused the deposition and death of the Khan are and
not so generally known. They have been art- Kh
fully concealed by the JRtissians ; and the bril-
liancy of the conquest of the Crimea^ dazzling
the imagination, has prevented a due enquiry

174 ' BiKTCHESERAI.

CHAP, into those dark and sinister manoeuvres whereby
the plot was perfected for the subjection of
the Peninsula. Potemkin^ arch-priest of intrigue
and wickedness^ planned and executed the
whole of it; to fulfil whose designs, it was
immaterial what laws were, violated, what prin-
ciples trampled, what murders committed, or
what faith broken. His principal favorites were
swindlers, adventurers, pimps, parasites : un-
principled men of every description, but espe-
cially unprincipled men of talent, found in him
a ready patron.

It is well known, that, by the last treaty of
peace with the Turks, prior to the conquest of
the Peninsula, Shakin Gkirei, of the family of
the Khans^ who had been a prisoner and a
hostage at Petersburg^ was placed upon the
throne of the Crimea. This was the first step
towards the overthrow of that kingdom. From
the moment of his accession, the Mussian minister
in the Crimea, an artful and designing foreigner,
well chosen, firom Potemkins list, to execute the
measures lie had in view, began to excite among
the Tahtars a hatred of their Sovereign ; raising
commotions among them, buying over the dis-
affected, and stimulatmg the people to frequent
insurrection. In the mean time he insinuated
himself into the good graces of the Khan,

IV.

CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. ijQ

teacbing him to do whatsoever might be most <^^p-
nnpopular in the eyes of his subjects. Among
other dangerous absurdities, he prevailed upon
him to place every thing in his establishment
upon a Russian footing ; to discipline his troops
after the Jitissian manner ; to build frigates upon
his coast; filling his head with preposterous
ideas of the navigation of the Black Sea. Thus
he incurred enormous expenses: these com-
pelled him to drain his subjects of their money,
and increased their murmurs. The Russian
minister, equally active on both sides, lost no
opportunity either to encourage the follies of
the Khan^ or to augment the disaffection of the
nobles. The work succeeded to his utmost
wishes ; a revolt took place, which soon be-
coming general, the terrified Sovereign was
persuaded to fly, first to Caffa^ and afterwards
to Toman.

Then it was that the last master-stroke of
political intrigue was effected. The Khan was
prevailed on to call in the assistance of Russian
troops, who were eagerly waiting the proposal,
and as*eagerly acceded to it. Thus a Russian
army was suffered to enter, unmolested, into the
heart of the Crimea. Under pretext of punish-
ing those who had rebelled against the Khan for
a revolt they had themselves excited, they

IJQ BAKTCHESERAI.

c^^P« put to death whomsoever they thought proper ;
took possession of the strong-holds, and prac-
tised their usual excesses. The Tahtars, some
hy compulsion, others hy entreaty, and a still
greater numher by terror, were driven from
their country, and compelled to seek elsewhere
a residence. The Khan returned to Karasubazavj
where the JRtissian army was encamped: and
there, in presence of the JRussian troops, was
persuaded to order his nobles to be stoned to
death; his pretended allies feasting their eyes
with the slaughter of men whom they had first
induced to rebel against their sovereign, and
afterwards caused to be butchered for having
complied with their desires. Thus the deluded
Prince, and his still more deluded subjects, alike
duped by designing miscreants whom they had
allowed to take possession of their country,
began at last to open their eyes, and en-
deavoured to rid themselves of an alliance so
fatal in its consequences. It was too late ; the
Khan was himself prisoner in the very centre
of the Mttssian army. The rest of their conduct
towards him exceeds in depravity all that had
preceded.

A proposal was made to him to resign ibfi
crown of the Crimea ; to quit the Peninftk^
and to attest, by his sign-manual, that iha ^

CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA. ym

Tidoals of bis &iiuly, in which the throne was chap.
hereditary, were for ever rightfully deposed. ,
He received the insolent proposal with the
astonishment and the indignation it merited ;
bat he was reminded, that, being indebted to the
Riunaju for his kingdom, he ought to resign it
whenever it might accord with their wishes.
The reasoning was arbitrary ; but very effectual,
when enforced at the mouth of a cannon ; and an
unfortunate Prince, to whom it is addressed,
remuns captive in the camp of his enemies. In
addition to this proposal, conditions were an-
nexed* that, instead of being deprived of his
dignities by compliance, he should have his
reudence in Petersburg; that be should hold
a conrt there, of much greater splendour and
magnificence than he had known in the Crimea ;
that he should be allowed an annual pension of
(me hundred thousand roubles, be enriched by all
manner of presents, enjoy the luxuries of that
great capital, and partake in those amusements
which the magnificence of Catherine constantly
afforded; that no restraint should be put upon
Mb person, bnt that he should be at full liberty
to act as he might think proper. The Khan saw
the snare into which he had fallen ; but there
was no method of liberating himself. He re-
tained, however, sufficient firmness to persist in
I a refusal : in consequence of this, force com-

lyg BAKTCHE8ERAI,

pleted what entreaty was unable to accomplish.
He was dragged, as a prisoneri to Kaluga\ a
wretched hamlet upon the river Oka^ yet rank-
ing as the capital of a government of the same
name, and a thousand versts distant from Peters-
burg. From this place he was not permitted to
move. In his miserable condition! finding that
neither his pension was paid, nor any single
engagement of the Russians fulfiUed, he insisted
upon going to Petersburg, but was told it could
not be permitted. At last, giving himself over
entirely to despondency, he exclaimed, '* Let
me be consigned as a victim to the Turks : they
mil not deny me, at least, the privilege of choos-
ing the manner of my death ; since my enemies
have resolved on my destruction I '' The un-
paralleled cruelty of the Hussions suggested the
propriety of acceding to this request j they
rejoiced indeed to hear it made, because it
offered an easy method of getting rid of one
whom they had pillaged, and whose presence
was no longer either necessary or desirable.
They consequently exposed the unfortunate
Prince upon the Turkish frontier, where he was

(1) Ur. Eton {Survey qf the Turkish EmpUre, p. 323,) sayi, he
** retired to Kaluga.** Was the liberty of retiring erer known in Ruiiiaf
A similar expression, howerer, oceors in p. 308. ^ He guiited Bmmia,
and retired to Comtantinople.*' It is hoped that Mr. Bton*9 entef^
taining work did not experience a reyisal in the hands of the Buetkoi
poUee,

CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA.

179

taken, and, being afterwards sent to Rhade$j chap.
was beheaded*.

tnrecMrthe

If it be now asked how the JRtisdans have ^onae-

qneneetof

conducted thenselves with regard to the Cfrimea. **>« cap-
after the depravity, the crueltji and the murders,
whereby it was obtained, the answer may be
given in a few words. They have laid waste
the country ; cut down the trees ; pulled down
the houses; overthrown the sacred edifices of
the natives, with all their public buildings;
destroyed the public aqueducts; robbed the
inhabitants ; insulted the Tahtars in their acts of
public worship ; torn up from the tombs the
bodies of their ancestors, casting their relics
upon dunghills, and feeding swine out of their
coflSns; annihilated all the monuments of an-
tiquity ; breaking up alike the sepulchres of
and Pagans^ and scattering their ashes in

(8) The Reader, having perused this narratiTe, will determine whe-
flier there be any thing on the part of the FrMch^ respecting Spain,
eqaal to the atrocity of the BtutianM in gettfaig possession of the Crimio.
Mr. Eton^ In his Survey qf ih» Turkuh Empire^ p. 904, says, their
right to the Pefdnmla was ioered, and that '' the mouth it unholy
wkieh daret to oaraiga {/," The representation Mr. £. has given, in
many parts contradicts itself: for example, in p. 327, he witnessed the
opolsion of 75,000 C%rtsHaiw {h>m the Crimea, by the Rustianef
almost all of whom perished, in consequence of their cmelty, in the
deserts of Nagay ; yet, in p. 888, he says, <' those who chose to remain*'
after the seizure of the Crimea, '' were l^ in the quiet possession of
their property and their reliyion,*

VOL. II. N

IgO BAKTCBBSBRAI.

CHAP, the air. « Avfbeeb, tevcidabis, uapbre falsis

NOMINIBYS, IMPERIVM J ATQYEy VBI 80UTVDIKBM
PACIVNT, PACEM ADPELLANT/'

There was somethii^ very emphatical in the
speech of a poor Tahtar^ who, one day lament-
ing in his garden the havoc made among his
fruit-tre^ by a severe frost> said, '* We never
used to experience such hard weather ; but
since the Rtuskms came> ihey seem to have
brought their winter along with themJ

Pdaeeof The principal palacc of the Kh(m» is still entirei
' and perhaps it may escape the general de^jruc-
tion ; because the late Empress ordered it to be
kept in repair, and always according to its
present Oriental form. When she came to JSSst^
teheaeraiy a set of S4>artments had been {Mrepared
for her, in the French taste : this gave her great
offence, and caused the order for its preserva-
tion, according to the original style observed in
the building. It is situate in the midst of
gardens ; from which circumstance the city de*
rives its name\ These gardens are filled with
fountains and fine fruit-trees. The interior pre-
sents the sort of scenery described in Eastern

(1) Baktcheterai tignifies <' A pahee m a garden.*' See IVItef'f
Travels f vol, II.p. 9G.

CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. Jgl

Tomanoes^ and which our theatres endeavour to ^^^-
vspreseDt; consisting of chambers, gallenes,
and passages, so intricate and irregular^ that it
is impossible to give any plan of them, or to
imagine the purposes for which they were con-
structed. Upon the whole, it is rather an
insignificant building for the resid^ce of a
flOYereign. A large hall, opening by means of
arches to the gardens of the seragUoj and to
different courts, receives several staircases,
winding from different parts of the palace.
From this hall a door conducted the Khan to a
small mosque, for his private devotion, when he
did not choose to appear in public. Ascending
to the apartments, we found no resemblance to
any thing European. The rooms are small, and
smrronnded by divdns; the windows concealed
by wooden lattices, or, as they are called by the
French, jahusies. Some of the windows look
only from one room into another ; but being
intended perhaps rather for ornament than for
utility, they consist of small casements placed
in little oblong rows ; and are at the same time
80 filled with frame and lattice- work, that no one
can see through them. In the windows of the
best apartments we observed some painted glass.
Several of the staircases, conducting from one
set of rooms to another, are open to the air ;
bat the persons ascending or descending were

189

BAKTCHBSBRAf.

CHAP, concealed from outward view by trellises. The

IV.

v^^/^ chief concern, both of Tahtars and Turks^ in their
dwellings^ seems to be, to avoid observation.
Their apartments are very cold, and, to the
generality of Europeans^ would be insu£ferable
in winter ; but the TaJUar^ having nothing to do
during that season of the year, but to sit smok-
ing, wrapped up in a huge pelisse, would find
the rooms equally insupportable if they were
wanner*

ti^mlde A very handsome bath, prepared in one part
Jp^o^i of the palace for the late Empress, is worthy of
^^. notice; because, remaming exactly as it was

fitted for her, it offers a proof of the
expenditure of Potemkin during her celebrated
journey to the Orimea. The same luxuries were
provided wheresoever she halted ; together with
all the elegancies and conveniences of palaces,
in buildings that were fiimished as if for her
continual residence. She had adopted the daily
practice of bathing her body with cold water,
and for that purpose the most sumptuous baths
were • everywhere constructed ; and although
many of them were used only once, they were
all lined throughout with white cotton quilts,
and were surrounded by carpets and by sofiu
Seraglio, of the samc materials. A part of the seraglio
particularly appropriated to the use of the

CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA. IgS

women, bears, as it is well known, the name of ^^^^*
Charem^. One feels a natural inclination to see v^v^
the inside of places secluded from observation
by the Moslems with such rigid caution. There
is nothing, however, to gratify the curiosity
which is excited by so much mystery. The
Charem of the Khan has been preserved in its
original state, without the slightest alteration.
Potemkin passed his nights there, during^the
visit of the Empress, and was much amused with
the idea of sleeping in a Charem. It consists neferip-
of a set of very indifferent apartments, of a square a!ar§m.
form, opemng one into another, havmg neither
magnificence nor convenience. These apart-
ments are detached from the palace, and they
are surrounded by a garden with high walls.
Owing to ihe lattices which cover the windows,
and to the trees planted before them, the
wretched [prisoners once doomed to reside
within them could hardly have obtained a view
even of the sky, the only object granted to their
contemplation. Destitute of literary resource,
the women there immured passed their time, as
ladies informed me who were in the habit of
visiting them, in embroidery, and in drinking
very bad coffee, sometimes with sorbet, and a
poor sort of lemonade. In the Turkish charems

(1) Fronovmeed Hanm, with a gattunl aspirate, as in tha Greek Z«

IV.

jg^ BAKTCHESERAI,

CHAP, the women are allowed the greater luxury of
smoking: this, to human beings so situated,
must become an important comfort of life. The
most remarkable part of the seraglio is the
entr^ance, by a winding passage, so narrow, that
OOP person alone could pass at the same time,
who lyas under the absolute necessity of
stepping close to the guard, so as to rouse him,
eyep if he were asleep. Into this piassage the
Khan descended by a private staircase, which
was appropriated solely to his use.

ThQ ^r^ienuin. merchants of Nakhtsbivan^y who,
with almost all the Christians of the Peransula^
epugrated from the Crimea, were originally in*
habitants of Baktchesera^: their loss has been
severely felt ever since the conquest of this
country by the Russians. The present popula-
tion, including male and female, amounts to near
six thousand souls^ In this number are in-
cluded above eleven hundred Jews : feur hundred
and twenty of these are registered as merchants.

(1). See p. 397 of the former Volume.

(2) The nomber of emigrants amounted to 75,000; all of whom,
excepting 7000, perished from cold, hmiger, .and other caoaea, in the
8teppe$, upon the western side of the Sea qfAzqf,

(3) Five thousand seven hundred and seventy-six, according to
Pallas, {Travels, vol. II. p, 29,) including OreekSf ArmemtmMyJews^uA
Tahtars.

CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA. |g5

The number of Tahtars does not exceed three chap.

IV»"

thousand : of this number, twenty belong to the n^v^/
class of nobles, two hundred and thirty-seven
are merchants, one hundred and seventy-three
priests, and seventy-eight students of divinity.

The morning after our arrival, Colonel vidttotiie
Richard DunanU a native of Smyrna^ and an 2>«eA<ni-
officer in the Russian service residing in
Bakteheseraif accompanied us on horseback to
climb the steep defile leading from the city to
the Jewish colony of DschoufoutkaW^ situate
upon a mountain, and distant about five versts.
These Jews are of the sect called Kardi : they
inhabit an antient fortress originally constructed
by the Genoese upon a very lofty precipice.
Fusing up the defile leading to this fortress,
we observed some Tahtar women among the
tombs and ruined mosques, in long snow-white
veils, seeming like so many ghosts : their veils
covered all the face, except the eyes ; and some
of them had the whole of the head and upper
part of the body concealed from observation.
Their beautiful flowing drapety, and the inter-
esting groupes they exhibited among the ruins,
would have furnished a pleasing subject for a

(4) Dieho^f(mt ii a name, originally, of reproach^ bestowed open the
/fw; aiidjKWtlgiilfieta Jbrfrecf.

186 BAKTCHBSBBAl,

CHAP, painter's pencil. As if their veils wete insuf-
^^\^ fident to protect them from ohsenration, they
no socmer behold a man, than they hang their
heads, and endeavour to escape notice by flight
Anec^te An English servant, brought by Admiral Mord-
KiASer- vinof into the Crimea^ observing this practice
among the Tahtar females, deemed it to be an act
of rudeness on his part to give them the trouble
of hiding their faces and of running away upon
his account; therefore, whenever he encoun-
tered them, he covered his face and took to his
heels, in order to hide himself in the first place
he could find. This passed unnoticed for some
time : at length, the Tahtar women, struck by
the singularity of seeing a man always avoiding
them and endeavouring to conceal himself from
their observation, let fall a portion of their veils
when they next met him ; this only caused him to
run faster than before. Such conduct excited
their curiosity more than ever, and at last *they
fairly hunted him : after following him in parties
to his hiding-place with their veils off, they
resolved to see a man who for the first time
concealed his face at the approach of a woman ;
and, having caught him, they actually demanded
an explanation of his unaccountable behaviour.

Advancing along the defile, and always
ascending, we passed above the remains of

CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA. X87

that quarter of the city, before mentioned, ^^^p-
which belonged to ihe Greeks. It is now a heap ^^v^^
of TvanSf wiih scarcely a stone in its original '
aitaatioiL As we proceeded, they shewed to
Qfl^inthe very highest part of the rocks, an sztraordi-
inm ring, pretending that the cables of ships
were formerly fastened to it, although many
hmdred feet above the present level of the
Black Sea. The tradition, however, is, or ought
to be, set aside, by a much more rational
account given of the same ring ; namely, that a
rope was here festened upon festival days ; and
flns being carried across the defile to a similar
ring upon the opposite side, the Khans amused
themselves by seeing a man pass over the valley
upon the rope, from one precipice to the other :
as formerly at Venice, during the Camivak a hired
rope-dancer was drawn to the top of the tower
cS St Mark, whence he descended by another
rope, with a bouquet of flowers in his hand, to
present to the Doge. This account is admitted
by the best-informed concerning the marvellous
ring near Baktcheserai ; but Baron de Tott very
credulously received the original tradition, with
all its absurdity. The only objection belonging
to the more rational story is suggested by the
difficulty of conceiving how any rope, so ex-
tended, could support a man's weight without
breaking.

188 BAKTCHESBRAL.

^^vf* Farther up the defile, a very remarkable

result of human labour is exhibited, in a Greek
^^^ numastery, or chapeU which has been hewn in
**°"' the very side of the precipice } and in such a
manner, that nothing of it is visible but the
small perforated cavities whereby light was
communicated to the interior. The Greeks of
the Crimea were forbidden by the Tahtars the
use of any public church ; nor were they allowed
to exercise publickly the functions of their reli-
gion : in consequence of this, like the persecuted
Arians^ they fled to rocks and precipices, secretly
excavating almost inaccessible caverns, and
ascending to their subterraneous shrines l^y
small winding staircases concealed from obser-
vation^ This example of their labour and their
piety remains among the few things the Mtissians
have not found it easy to destroy : it is one of
the most singular curiosities in the Crimea ; and
it seems to be suspended, like a marten's nest,
upon the face of a lofty precipice, beneath stu-
pendous rocks.

jewuh ^® ^^^ came ^ to the lower verge of some

coemeteiy. gj^^p ciiffg^ and beheld upon the summit the

walls of DscHouFouTKALE. In a recess upon
our right hand appeared the coBmetery, or
^^Jield of dead** belonging to the Karaite Jews.
Nothing can be imagined more calculated to

CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA. jgg

iiispire holy meditatiiin. It is a beautiful grove, chap.
filling a chasm of the mountains, which is ren-
dered gloomy by the shade of lofty trees and
overhanging rocks. A winding path conducts
thro^gh this solemn scene. Several tombs of
white marble present a fine contrast to the deep
green of the foliage; and female figures, in
white veils, are constantly seen ofiering their
pious lamentations over the graves. An evening
or a morning visit to the sepulchres of their
departed friends constitutes, perhaps, all the
exercise of the Jewish women, as they seldom
leave their houses: in this respect, their cus-
toms are similar to those of Tahtars and Turks^.
K the belief which these nations entertain, that
the souls of the dead hover about their earthly
tabernacles, and hold communion with the
living, were admitted by the followers of Christ,
it would be difficult to direct the human mind
to any duty more consolatory, or more sub-
limely affecting. It is not possible to. behold
either Moslems or Jews so circumstanced, without
feeling something very like a wish to share
with them, at least, this article of their fedtlu

(1)^^1118111116 valley of Jehoiapbat 1b so highly Talned by tfa« Jtws,
that, wheneTer the antient Khans wished to extort from them a present,
or to raise a voluntary contribntion« it was sufficient to threaten them
widi the extirpation of those sacred trees, under the plausible pratcy
of wantiag fad or timber." PtUUu^s Traoeb, vol. II. p. 35.

190 BAKGTHESERAl,

^^^' The ascent from the ccBiditery to the fortress,
although short, is so steep, that we were forced
to alight from our horses, and actually to climb
to the gateway. Several slaves, however,
busied in conveying water upon the backs of
asses, passed us in their way up. The spring
which supplies them is below, in the defile ; and
a very copious reservoir, cut in the rocks above,
is prepared for the use of the colony. <A8 *we
passed the gateway, and entered the town, we
were met by several of the inhabitants. Colonel
Dunant inquired for a Jew of his acquaintance,
one of the principal people in the place. We
were conducted to his house ; and found him,
at noon, sleeping on his divdn. He rose to
receive us, and presently regaled us with
various sorts of confectionary; among these
were conserved leaves of roses, and preserved
walnuts: we had also eggs, cheese, cold pies,
and brandy. A messenger was despatched for
the MabbU whom he invited to meet us, and who
soon after made his appearance. This venerable
man was held in very high consideration by
them all, and with good reason j for he was
exceedingly well-informed, and had passed a
public examination, with distinguished honour,
in Petersburg^ after being sent for expressly by
the Empress Catherine. We were highly in-
terested in their conversation, as well as in the

CAPITAL OF THB CRIMBA. igi

tmgn1iM> eircumstance of having found one chap.
Jewish settlement, perhaps the only one upon
earth, where that people exist secluded from
the rest of mankmd, in the free exercise of
their antient customs and peculiarities\ The
town contains about twelve hundred persons of
both sexes, and not more than two hundred
booses. The Tahtars left here a stately mauso-
leum, erected for the daughter of one of their
KhanSf now a ruin. The principal part of each
dwelling belongs to the women ; but every
master of a feunily has his own private apart-
ment, where he sleeps, smokes, and receives
his friends. The room wherein we were enter-
tained was of this description : it was filled
with manuscripts, many in the hand-writing of
oor host ; others by those of his children ; and
all in very beautiful Hebrew characters. The
^KarcttteM deem it to be an act of piety to copy
the Biblcj or copious commentaries upon its
text, once in their lives. AU their manuscript
coj^es of the Old Testament begin with the
Book of Joshua ; even the most antient did not
contain the Pentateuch. This is kept apart.

(1) * It feemi stngiikr that tuch foitroMot should haye been pos-
mnd bj Midi a people ; yet, in AbyMinia, the Fdlaska appear simflariy
ittaated ; and Jackaon mentions a Jews' rock in Morocco.*

Hebef^s MS. Jmamai,

IV.

192 BAKTCHBSBRAI,

CHAP, not in nuoraacript, but in a printed ^erskm, fior
the use of the schools^. In their sjnagqgoes^
with the exception of the Books of Mases^ every
thing was in manuscript. The Babbi asked
if we had any of their sect, Karai, in England ;
a question we could not answer. He said there
were few in Holland. The etymology of their
name is uncertain. The difference between their
creed and that of Jews in general, according to
the information we received from the Mabbi,
consists in a rejection of the Talmud ; a disregard
to every kind of tradition ; to all Rabbinical
writings or opinions; to all marginal interpo-
lations of the text of Scripture ; and, in a
measure of their rule of faith by the pure letter
of the Law. They pretend to have the text of
the Old Testament in its most genuine state.

Being desirous to possess one of their JBibleM,
the Habbij who seemed gratified by the circum-
stance, permitted us to purchase a beautiful
manuscript copy, written upon vellum, aboot
four hundred years old ; but having left this
volume in the Orimeoi to be forwarded by wi^
of Peter Aurg^ it was never afterwards recovered.

(1) Tlie reason given by the BxMi for the omission of the BocAcs of
Jfoiet in their mttUMoript oopiet, was, that the VetiMimuk^ beiaf in
eonatant use for the inatmetlott of their children, was reserved i^MBt,
that the wh<4e Tolanie migfat not be liable to the injuries ft inMlld
thereby SHstahi.

CAPITAL OF THE CRIMBA. 193

■

It begun, like all the others, with the Book of ^J^^-
Joshua. ^-^^-^

The character of the Karaite Jews is directly ;}^^;^* jj
oppotite to that generallj attributed to their ^^^^
brethren in other countries, being altogether
without reproach. Their honesty is proverbial
in tiie Crimea ; and the word of a Karaite is
considered equal to a bond. Almost all of them
are engaged in trade or manufacture. They
observe their fasts with the most scrupulous
rigonr, abstaimng even from snuff and from
moking for twenty-four hours together. In
the very earliest periods of Jewish histoiy, this
sect separated from the main stem: such, at
least, is their own account; and nothing
esnoeming them ought to be received from
BabbimstSy who hold them in detestation. For
tbis reason y the relations of Leo of Modena^ a
Rabbi of Vemeej are not to be admitted. Their
idusm is said to be as old as the return from
the Babylonish Captivity. They observe ex-
taraordinary care in the education of their
duldren^ who are publickly instructed in the
^nagogoes; and in this respect the Tahtars
ire not deficient We rarely entered any Tahtar
Tillage in the day-time without seeing children
aisembled in some public place, receiving their
instruction from persons appointed to super-

IV.

] g^f BAKTCHBSERAL

CHAP, intend the care of their education j reciting with
audible voices passages from the Kardn^ or
busied in copying manuscript lessons placed
before them. The dress of the Karaites differs
little from that worn by the Tahtars. All of
them, of whatsoever age, suffer their beards to
grow ; but among Tahtars the beard is a dis-
tinction of age, the young men wearing only
whiskers. The Karaites wear also a lofty thick
felt cap, faced with wool: this is heavy, and
keeps the head very hot The Turks and
Armenians often do the same; and in warm
climates this precaution seems a preservative
against the dangerous consequences resulting
from obstructed perspiration.

We were surprised to see vine-leaves sold in
the streets, particularly as they are abundant
in the country ; but this article is in very great
demand, for cookery. Their minced meat is
rolled up in vine-leaves, and sent to table in
the form of sausages.

From this interesting colony we returned, by
a different road, along the tops of the mountains,
to BaktcheseraiK Concerning this place, it is

(1) <<Batchi8erai is entirely inhabited by TiOitan, Jews, and
Armenianiy and is the moet popnlons place we saw in the Crimea.
It has leTeral moMjuet, besidei a very fine one in the seraglio, with

CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. 195

hoped nothing has been omitted which might ^"yi.*
be deemed worthy of the reader's attention.

two minarets, the mark of royalty. There are some decent sutlers*
•bopSy and some manufkctories of felt carpets, and one of red and
ycOow katfaer. The houses are almost unlTersally of wood and ill-
btkcd bricksy with wooden piazzas, and shelving roofli of red tile
There Is a new ehnrch, dedicated to 8t. Qeorge ; but the most striking
fetfore Is the Pah^e, which though neither large nor regular, yet, by
Hm pietnresqne style of its architecture, its carving and gUdIng, it,
Anfaie and Turkish inscriptions, and the fountains of beautiful water
la every court, Interested me more than I can express. The apart .
seats, eseept the Hall of Justice, are low and irregular. In one arc
aaamberof bad paintings, representing different views of Constan*
tlDople; and, to my surprise, birds were pictured, flying, in violation
ef flie Mohammedan prohibition to paint any animal. It is kept in
tolerable repair; and the div&ns in thelbest rooms are still furnished
wUh euAlooB. One apartment, which was occupied by the Empress
Cathbrike, is fitted up in a paltry ball-room manner, with chandc-
Beis, See. and forms an exception to the general style. The Harem is
a nean building, separated from the other apartments by a smali
willed garden, and containing a kitchen, with six or eight small and
■ean bed-rooms, each of which (as we were told by our guide, who
vasaJew» and remembered it in the time of the Khans) was usually
ocmpied by two ladies. In the garden is a large and delightful kiosk,
iimmnded by lattice-work, with a div&n round the inside, the centre
pBf9d with marble, and furnished with a fountain. The word Serai,
or Seraglio, which is given to this range of buildings, seems, in the
Vifatar and Turkish language, to answer to all the significations of our
Biiglish word Court; being applied indifferently to the yard of an
inortheiodesareof apalace." Heber^s MS. Journal.

VOL. II. O

CHAP. V.

FBOH THE CAPITAL OF THE CBIHEA^ TO THE
HERACLBOTIC CHBBSONESDS.

Tarantula Spider~~ Departure from Baktchettrtn
— Ctbnus of Strabo — Aktiar — Caverns of
InJurman — MephiticAir — CippusofTheagents
— AntiejU Geography, and Antiquities of the
Minor Peninsula — Eupatoriuh — Chersonbsos
— Parthenium of Formaleoni — Monastery of
St. George — Balaclava — Genoese Fortress —
Geology of the Crimea — Extraordinary Qeoh-

CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA. jQy

gical PhcsTumena — Form of an antient Greek chap.
Taum — Manners of the People. v^s^«^

Upon out arrival at the house where we had q^I^[
lodged, we found the servant endeavouring to
secure a very large tarantuhij which he had caught
b one of the out-houses. Some advantage
may be derived from our entomological re-
searches, imperfect as they are, if they only
cause future travellers to avoid the dangerous
consequences of an attack from such animals.
A slight attention to the representation
in the opposite page will enable any one
to recognise three of the four venomous in-
sects of the Crimea with tolerable precision,
IS the drawing was made from the ori-
ginal specimens. The fourth, the Phalangium
AraneoideSf was destroyed in its passage to
dds country : this may be regretted, because its
Ute is the most pernicious, and no very accu-
nte representation of the insect has hitherto
iqppeared. Observations more at large were
pven in a preceding Chapter^ : nor would the
Mbject have been again introduced, but with
t view to contradict notions propagated con-
coming the harmless nature of these animals.
Bothfirom our own experience, and the very

(1) See pp. 133—137, of this Volame.

198 FROM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

CHAP, extensive knowledge of Professor Pallasj we
^•^N-^ are authorised in affirming, that in warm j
countries, the wounds they occasion some-
times prove fatal. The amputation of the part
affected was the only method of saving our
soldiers in Egypty who had been bitten by the
scorpion; and PaZ^ informed us, that he had wit- !
nessed the most dangerous consequences from >
the attacks of the Scolopendra, the Phalangiam^ ^
and the Tarantula.

Departure The evening after we descended from the
cheierai. fortrcss belonging to the Jewish colony, we left
Baktcheseraif and reached the great bay of
Aktiak : upon this place the Rtissians^ in the
time of Catherine the Second, bestowed the
fanciful name of Sebastopole. We had to make
a passage of about two versts^ across the water,
to the town. Prince Viazemskoy, the Governor,
had stationed a sentinel with a boat, who told
us he had waited four days in expectation of
our coming. According to the orders he had
received, a gun was fired, to give notice to
the garrison of our arrival. The great bay
of Aktiar also bears the name of The Moods; and
here the Russian fleet is frequently at anchor*
stratw^^ It is the Ctenus of StraboK The harbour,

(1) Stfxtb. Geogr. lib. ?li.

TO THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSOJNESUS. 199

where the town of Aktiar was built about chap.
twenty years ago, has been appropriated to \^9^v^^
the reception of Russian ships of war*. The
Grimea does not afford timber for building
ships, although there is always a sufficient
supply for repairs. The fleets of the world
■ight ride secure, and have convenient ancho-
lage, in the great bay ; and in any of the ports,
Yessels find from twenty-one to seventy feet
depth of water, and good anchorage. To the
Russian navy it is one of their most important
possessions; yet such was the surprising igno-
nmce or the negligence of their Government,
fliat, for some time after the capture of the
Crimeaj the advantages of this place were not
discovered. The plan of the harbour somewhat
membles that of Malta.

Aktiar contains two churches : one of them AktUir.
k a handsome building. The principal street
ii broad, and the stairs of the quay are spacious
and magnificent. For the rest, with the ex-
ception of its magazines and barracks, it can
«ily boast of a few shops'. Other objects

(2) There are other ports, such as the " Careening Bay,'* the
'^ay qf Quarantine,** kc,

(9) ** Aktiar, so called from its wkUe roch. The old town stood, as
*s were told, on the north of the harbour, where there are no remains

200 FROM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

CHAP, demand the attention of the traveller, and <
for all his activity. Landing at Aktiar,
arrives in the very centre of some of the n
interesting antiquities of the Crimea. 1
country included within the isthmus formed
the principal harbour of Aktiar^ or Inkerm
that is to say, by the Ctentis of Strahoy and
port of Balaclava or Partus St/mbolorum^ is
Heracleotic Chersonesus, so accurately
scribed by that author as a portion of

of any coiiBeqiienoe. No vessels are built here ; as the timber nms
be floated down the Bog or Dnieper. A regolation had been a
prohibiting merchant-vessels the entrance into the harbour, oi
in positive distress; a strange way of proceeding, when eomp
with the general policy of European Qovemments. The reason asi^
was, the embezzUment qf the public stores, which were sold to the i
chaats by the Government qfficers, almost witJiaut shame. The c
has been to check entirely the prosperity of the town, and to :
every foreign commodity to a most extravagant price. Even provl
cannot be brought by sea without a special licence. This infbnn
I derived from the Port-Admiral, Bandakof, and from an Ei^
officer in the Russian service. The natural advantages of the bar
are truly surprising ; and the largest vessels lie within a cabled la
of the shore. The harbour is divided into three coves, aflbr
shelter in every wind, and favourable situations for repairs, bdk
&C. On a tongue of high land, between the two southern cm
stands the Admiralty and store-houses, and on the opposite side Is
town. The principal arm of the harbour runs east, and is tennin
by the valley and little river of Inkerman. There are some fbrmiii
batteries, and the mouth of the harbour is very easy of defence,
old and unserviceable cannon are broken into small pieces, by I
raised to a great height, and suffered to fell on a bed of masonry ;
then sent, as we are told, to Lugan, to be new cast. To build a dii
the Black Sea costs half as much again as to construct it at Cronst
the wood coming from so great a distance." Heber't MS, Journal*

TO THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSONESUS. ^1

Peninsula Majors or Taurica Chersonesus. chap.
Within this small district stood the cities of the
M and new Chersonesus ; JEupatorium ; the
Teaqfles of Diana^ and the Promontory Parthe-
man, celebrated in the story of Iphigenia ; the
fimnous Chersonesan Mole ; with numerous ram-
parts, tombs, canals, and other works, the memory
of which historians have preserved, but the last
traces of whose magnificence the Russians daily
labour to annihilate.

Prince Vtazemskoy had prepared apartments
far us in a palace belonging to the Crown,
nmilar to the edifice already noticed at Stara
Crhn; but there was at this time resident in
Aktiar a countryman of ours, in the Russian
soryice, an illiterate man, whose vanity we
famd would be piqued if we did not take up
our abode with him. He was originally em-
^yed as a servant to the astronomer who
accompanied Cook in his second voyage; and,
owing to the powerful interest made in his be-
half, by Professor Pallas^ and by other persons
of high respectability, he had obtained the
oommand of an expedition to the north-west
coast of America^ of which Scaier has since
published a narrative. He had the rank of
Conunodore ; and his claim as a countryman,
added to his other pretensions, induced us to

202 FBOM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

CHAP, accept his offisrs of accommodation. We ]
N^v^w reason afterwards to regret our imprudoU
for, in addition to the privations we endn
heneath his roof, we found ourselves thwM
in every undertaking, by his interference^,:!
very often by his actual misrepresentatiflMj
the Governor and police-officers. He would jj
allow the Prince to grant us permission
the removal of any article of antiquity w^^
purchased, although they were all condt
to serve as building materials ; and we
soon reason to apprehend, that we were
panied, wheresoever we went, by as dan|
a spy as the jealous police of that coofl
could possibly place over us. The roooi*]
allotted to our use was a kind of antcchaogl
destitute even of the meanest article of fumitfl
and here we slept upon the bare floor: i
should we have noticed the rigour of our fi
if it had not borne the respectable name
English hospitality.

Caverns of 'j^jjg Priucc prepared his shallop for us on
next day, with twelve oars, to visit the m
and caverns of Inkerman^ f at the extremiQ
the principal harbour. The Commodore and
metropolitan Bishop accompanied us. Be|

•w

(I) In'Kerman, according to Pallas^ means * The Town qfCom

ttJE

^■^ If * *

TO THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSONES.US. 203

we reached Inkermarij some very remarkable chap.
excavations appeared in the rocks by the side
of the bay, visible at a considerable distance.
Upon examination, they proved to be chambers,
with arched windows, cut in the solid stone
with marvellous art and labour. The Bishop
described them as the retreats of Christians in
the earliest ages of the Church. But to give an
idea of what we saw at Inkerman would baffle
every power of description. The rocks all
around the extremitv of the harbour are hewn
into chapels, monasteries, cells, sepulchres,
and a variety of works which, by their multi-
plicity and intricacy, astonish and confound the
beholder. A river flows here into the bay, after
leaving perhaps the most beautiful valley in
Europe. At the mouth of this river the most
remarkable antiquities are situate, the excava-
tions appearing on both sides. The first caverns
visible to persons approaching from Aktiar are
upon the south side: these have been con-
verted into magazines for gunpowder. It was
with great difficulty we could prevail upon the
sentinels to sufier us to enter the caves where
the ammunition is kept. They seem to have
constituted an entire subterraneous monastery :
the rock has been so wonderfully perforated,
that it now exhibits a church, with several
chambers, and long passages leading off in

204 raOM THE CAPITAL OP THE CRIMEA,

CHAP, various directions. From these caverns, a fine
prospect of the Valley of Inkermanj appears
through the wide open arches, together with
heaps of ruins upon the opposite side of the
river# The principal cave seems to have been
the church. We found several stone coffins
cut in the rock : these had all been opened.
We noticed some Greek inscriptions above them,
but the characters were too faint and too im-
perfectly engraven to be legible. The difficulty
of copying or deciphering them was increased
by the obscurity of the caverns. It was now
evening; and night coining on, the full moon
rose in great splendour over the long Valley of
InAerman, illuminating a landscape, which, as
it was seen through the arches of these gloomy
chambers, is not to be described. Upon the
opposite side of the river, excavations were
stiU more frequent, and somewhat farther from
the bay. Crossing an antient bridge^ whose
fair-proportioned arch, and massive super-
structure, indicated the masonry of some remote
age, we found the caverns to be so numerous,
that they occupied one entire side of a con-
siderable mountain : upon its summit were the
towers and battlements of a very large fortress,
supposed to have belonged to the Genoese^ but
perhaps originally part of the fortifications
erected by Diophanttts, one of the generals of

TO THB HBRACLEOTIC CHEBSONESUS. 205

Mithradates. From the appearance of staircases chap.
leading also to the very caverns hefore men- v^v^^
tioned, it is evident that a fortress must have
stood there ever since the excavations were
first made, whatsoever be the date of their
origin. Several chapels, together with the
remains of stone sepulchres, apparently con-
structed for the bodies of distinguished persons,
are among these chambers, which are now
tenanted by the Taktars and their goats. The
stone coffins serve as drinking-troughs for the
cattle : the altars, once smoking with incense,
are now filthy receptacles for dung and mud.
Pallas, who had paid considerable attention to
the subject, believed that all these remains,
whether of buildings or excavated chambers,
originated in a settlement of Avians ; who, when
Christianity met with general persecution, fled
to these rocks, and fortified themselves against
the barbarous inhabitants of the Peninsula.
Similar w'orks are found in other parts of the
Criinea, particularly at ScMlii and Mankoup; also
in Italy y and in other parts of Europe : and they
have generally been attributed to the labours
of those early Christians who fled fi"om persecu-
tion. The air of Inkerman is unwholesome Meputie*
during the months of summer and antumn ; and
this may be said, in some degree, of the whole
Peninsula. Even the natives are affiicted with

206 FROM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

ca^p. frequent 'fevers ; but strangers rarely escape.
The tertian fever is the most common. In
autumn it is very difficult to avoid this disorder,
particularly at Akmetchet, Aktiar, Koshfy Sudakj
and K^ardsubazar. Baktcheserai is the most
healthy situation, because a constant current
of air passes through the defile in which it is
situate ; and the water is excellent'.

After returning from our excursion to Inker-
man, we endeavoured to investigate the antient
topography of the Heracleotic Peninsula. This
was a work of some difficulty ; yet the materials
were ample. The ruins, as they still exist, with
the assistance of Strabo, and an acurate survey
of the country, might be deemed sufficient for
the purpose ; but the insurmountable difficulties

(I) In consequence either of the Tisit to Inkerman, or the air of
Aktiar, the author caught a violent tertian feTcr, which afflicted him
during the whole of his journey along the south coast : and he afterwards
observed at Akmetchet, that it was not possible to walk in the town without
meeting some persons labouring under a similar disorder. The pale
Pemvian bark has very little effect in removing the complaint ; bat the
red bark soon cures it : the last paroxysm is generally followed by a
scalding eruption upon the lips. Tliis symptom, as an index of returning
health, is always hailed by the inhabitants, who, when they perceive it,
congratulate the invalid upon the speedy prospect of his recovery. But
as the poor, and even many of the rich, are unable to procure the bark,
these fevers often generate dropsical habits, and become fataL There is
not a single apothecary in the Crimea, Medicine is therefore alvioft
unknown, excepting the few remedies to which the TaA/ar« have racoone :
and these, with the use of a few herbs, consbt chiefly, as in all barbarous
countries, in charms and 8ui>erstitious practices.

TO THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSONESUS. 207

created by the barbarism of the Russians were chap.

very intimidating. When they settled in the
comitry, the remains of the city of Chersonesus
were so considerable, that all its gates were
standing. These they soon demolished ; and,
proceeding in their favourite employment of lay-
ing waste, they pulled down, broke, buried, and
destroyed every monument calculated to illus-
trate its former history; blowing up its antient
foundations ; tearing open tombs ; overthrowing
temples ; and then, after removing the masses
of stone and marble to Aktiar, exposing them
for sale by cubic measure, to serve as materials
in building. If the Archipelago should ever fall
under the dominion of Utissia^ the fine remains of
Antient Greece will be destroyed; Athens will be
rased, and not a stone be left to mark where the
city stood. Turks are men of taste and pro-
found science in comparison with the Russians.
Among other interesting antiquities, removed by
the latter from the city of Chersonesus^ there was
a beautiful bas-relief, upon a Cippus of white cippus of
marble, exhibiting sculpture equal in perfection ^''*^'^''
to some of the most-admired productions of
antient artists. This Cippus had closed the
entrance to the tomb of a philosopher named
Theaoenes. Any of the inhabitants of Aktiar
might have purchased it, together with a ton
weight besides of other stones, for a single

QQg FBOM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRiMRAi

CHAP, rouble. To us the sale was prohibited, because
we were strangers ; and, worse than all, we were
Englishmen. Commodore Billings particularly
insisted, that the consequences would be ^ serious
to the inhabitants, if it were told to the Emperor
that Englishmen had been allowed to remove
any thing of this description : so the Cippus of
Theagenes was left to its fate. As a bas-relief
it represented the philosopher and his wife.
The drapery of these figures manifested the
degree of perfection which the art of sculpture
had attained in the Chersonesus^ and thereby
illustrated and confirmed the observations of
Plin7/\ The philosopher held in his left hand
a scroll, in form and size resembling the manu-
scripts found in Pompeiu His feet were bound
in sandals. His wife, in a Grecian habit, wore
a long robe, which seemed to fall negligently in
folds to the ground. They both appeared to be
in the prime of life : and beneath their feet was
the foUowing inscription :

GEArENHZXPHZTinNOZ . KAI
HrVNHAYTOY . OYARIA . MA
KAPIAEXnNZEK-'NBXAIPE

(1) " Prmeipui nUoris" (says the historian, speaking of Heradea
Chenonenu, which had fonnerly borne the name of Sf&OARiCB,) ** in
Mo 00 traetUf eutiodUia OrtKUB maribui/* Plin. Not, Higt. lib. iv.

TO THB HERACLEOTIC CHERSONSEUS. gQQ

From the style of the inscription, the late Pro- chap.
fessor Parson believed the date of it to have
been at least two hundred years prior to Chris-
tianity. We were afterwards conducted to the
sepulchre, from whose mouth they had removed
this Cippus. It was a family vault, hewn in
the rock on the outside of the walls of the
antient city of Chersonesu^. Within were recesses
for the bodies of the dead. When opened, the
soldiers found several bones in a state of pre-
servation'; and these they presently scattered
among the ruins. There were many other
sepulchres of the same kind, upon the side of
the rock where the Tomb of Theagenes was found,
all hewn in the same manner, and each closed
by a large stone. Thus, evidently, the custom
of the Chersotiesus was to bury, and not to
bum, the dead. With the single exception of
the vase found at YenikaU^ we observed no-
where in the Crimea either ashes, urns, or any

(2) A line from the Heeuba of Euripides, (Ediiio Porsoni,) with the
following Note of the Editor, is my authority for writing Chermmetus
instead of CherronetuSf although in opposition to the reeeited text of
almost every Greek and Latin author :

** **0c rj)y ApitTTfiv Xcp<royif<rlay irXara." t. 8.
^ Aldus et Codices X^ppoptiolav, sed alteram formam prsuntibus Beckio
et Brunckio reposui. Iteri^m, t. 3d. Fy ryit Xipcoviiciq.**

(3) This has heen the case in some Oredan sepulchres, of much more
antient date.

210 VnO^ THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

CHAP. Other proof that the bodies of the dead had
vJX/ antiently been consumed by fire.

Antient If the reader would follow us in the tour of

S^A^u/ the Heracleotic Peninsula^ it is necessary that he
^^M^ should have the maps, engraved for this Work,
Penuuuia. QQugtantiy j^ his hand. Leaving Aktiar, and

following the coast westward, we passed the
bay where the Mtissian artillery is stationed.
Then, arriving upon the bay for quarantine,
upon its western side we saw the ruins and
sepulchres of a town perfectly distinct from
that of Chersonestis, answering the situation
jBupata- assigned by Strabo to Eupatorium^ a town built
by Diophantus. His observations state, that
the promontory, upon which this town stood,
inclined towards the city, at the distance of
fifteen stadia^ and formed a considerable bay ;
beyond this was the Ctenus : and he also adds,
that the inhabitants built a mole across, uniting
the two towns\ Tlie remains of the mole are
yet visible ; and the distance, allowing for every
stadium an English furlong*, is precisely that

rtum*

(1) Strab. lib. ^U. p. 450. ed. Oxon.

(2) As this rule is generally admitted| and will be adopted througb-
ont this work, it may be proper to insert the following passage,
concerning the Stadium, from Casaubon's Commentary upon Strabo,
as g^ven in the Notes to the Oaford edition, p. 467. '' St€uUum,inquit
Plinius, lib. iL c. 23, centum viginti quinque nostros ^citpasius. Quod

Cherto^

TO THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSONESUS. gl 1

which he has mentioned. A place for quaran- chap.
tine is now built upon this bay, and it divides
JEupatorium from Chersonesus ; for immediately
after passing the Qiuirantine appears the pro-
montory whereon the city of Ckersonesus was
situate: it is now covered by its ruins\
Upon the eastern side, below the walls of the
town, are the antient sepulchres of the Cherso-
nesiansy in great number, ranged in very regular
order. The plain between Ckersonesus and
Eupatofium is also covered by ruined build-
ings; and to the south of the former city, at
the distance of a verst behind the Promontory,
upon an eminence, is a tumulus of a size so

A est, neceste est millare iinum stadia efficerc octo. Plutarchus in Qrac-
chif, p. 838. torn. I. edit. F. Fort, rb ii fiiXiov 6kt^ cralUtv 6\iyov
dxoSti: atqoc b&c dimensione nbi sunt Plinius, Livius, ut alibi docuimuS|
et Dionytias Halicarnasseusis, atque alii. Polybius quoqne, libro tertio,
ravrtff lnqait» PtfitifidriffTCU km fftfftifitiiiJTai icard craViovQ 6ktu iid
'Pti>/iaM#y InifiiX&Q,"

(1) The following ralaable document may account for tbe desolate
«ppe«rance of the city, and direct future travellers to some of its
remains* Teiy differently situated. I shall recur, hereafter, to the
Iket aHnded to, of the baptism of Vladimir. '' MetropcH%$ vetusta Kon^
swdi, qMB genti Ruthenorum princeps dedit baptitma et namen Christ'
timsumf poftea verd prtBdam gentibus nottrUy exciaa ab eis. Unde
Kkftia nat^ra in templorum suorum lUhostraHa^ amrotU, et incrusta-
metUii retinet hueugque eerta preeda iliiue insignia, h quUnu et Qnbs-
HBVSI BaeUioB vaivam largita e«t." Ezcerpta d Michalonis Lituani
Fngmentis de Moribos Tartarorum.

VOL. II. P

£]2 FROM THB CAPITAL OP THE CBIMBA,

CHAP, remarkable, that it cannot fail to attract notice.
Immediately after passing the Promontory of
Eupatoriwnh towards the east, begins the Ctenus^
or Harbour of Inketman : the entrance to this
constitutes The Roads of Atkiar^ exactly corre-
sponding with the account given by Strabo.
The old walls, both of the town of Chersonesus
and of its buildings, are extremely thick, being,
in fact, all double; that is to say, having a
ifthell on each side constructed with immense
masses of stone, and the interval between the
two filled with cement, containing fragments
of pottery and other coarse materials^ Earthen-
ware seemed to have been in great abundance ;
not only as it was employed among the ma-
terials for building, but because the ground
was covered with fragments of broken ves-
sels. Two strong towers, one being conti-
guous to the bay, were entire in 1794. Pallas
had seen them\ Attached to one of these
was a slab of white marble, with the fol-
lowing inscription: this we copied from the
original, now in the possession of the Profes*
sor's friend, Hahlitz.

(1) TraTels, toI. II. p. 74.

TO THB HBHACLBOnC CHERSONENSU9. ^13

AYTOKPATOPKECAPZHNfiNEYCEBHZNIKHTIC
.... OnEOYKOCMEnCTOCAEICEBACTOC . . .
♦lAOTIMHCAMENHHAYTANEYCEBIAIlCEl
nACAICTAICnOAECINKAIENTAYTHTHAYTOY
no Al EAllPH CATOXPH M ATIIN AOCI NT ACYN A
rOMENAEKTOYnPAKTIOY^HMITOYENTAYOA
Bl KAPATOYTfiN KAeOCIAM ENAN BAAAI C
TPAPIftNAIftNANANEOYNTETATIXHnPOC
ZXlTHPIANTHCAYTllNnOAEXlCKAIEYXAPIC
TOYNTECAN EO H KAM ENTOAETOTITAON
EICMNHMOCYNONAEIAIONTHCAYTAN

BACIAIAC
ANEN EnOHAEOnYPrOCOYTOCnPA
TTOhfTOCTOYM EFAAOn PS"KOM S
AlOrENOYIETOYCStlBlENINASlA

This inscription records a return of thanks for
a ffh of money, and repairs done to the walls
for the safety of the city, during the reign of
the Emperor Zeno, a name common to some of
the Roman Emperors, at Constantinoplet in the
fifth and sixth centuries. In the latter part is
mentioned the restoration of a tower, probahly
the same in which the inscription was found.
The learned Reader will ohserve the difficulty
caused hy the abhreviations ; and also notice
the mode of writing H for I, and I for the
diphthong El, as well as E for Al. The date
seems distinctly preserved, in the epocha of

gl4 ^^^ '^^^^ CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

CHAP. Cliersoncsiis dxii. and the fourteenth year of the
sixth Indiction ; answering to our a^ra, a. d. 402.

In the year 1794 was also found, ahout three
feet helow the surface of the soil, a large slah
• of white marble, containing an. inscription so
imperfectly preserved, that it was not possible
to copy it in a legible manner. It is in the
Doric dialect, and seems to commemorate the
gratitude of a people to a citizen or magistrate
for the introduction of vineyards. The original
stone is still in the possession of Admiral
Wilson, at Aktiar.

From the little harbour lying between the
cities of Chersonesus and Eupatoriunij an airtificial
canal, winding round towards the walls of the
former, and hewn in the rock, yet remains very
entire. It was calculated to admit small vessels
within the suburbs of the city. Towards the
extremity it is now dry, although the fishing-
boats of the inhabitants still enter its mouth.
" In the city," says Strabo\ " is the temple of
a virgin, a certain dcsmonj from whom also the
Promontory is named, one hundred stadia farther
on, and called Parthenium ; having the fane of
the dcenwn, and her image. Between the dtj

(1) Strab. Geogr. lib. yii. p. 446. ed. Oxon,

TO THE HERACLEOTIC OIIERSONESUS. gj^

and the Promontory are three ports." Being chap.
guided therefore by this clue, and following the w^^rw
coast, the three harbours mentioned by Strabo
will be found to occur very regularly : but it is
not so easy to determine the particular promon-
tory where the shrine and statue of the dcemon
virgin was said to stand. As the coast inclines
towards the south, a very remarkable black
rock advances from the cliff into the sea,
towards the west, perforated by a lofty natural
iarch: through this, boats may pass. The
singular appearance of such a scene might
furnish a basis for superstition ; and above this
rock were the remains of a building of an oblong
form, cx)nstructed with considerable masses of
stone, placed together without cement. Near
the place were also other ruins. Farther on Partke-
18 a promontory yet more strikmg: to this Forma-
Formaleon? gives the name of The Promontory oj
Parthemum: it terminates by a perpendicular
precipice of very great height. Then follows
the bay where the Monastery of St. George is Monastery
situate, in a picturesque and singular situation, owrge.
80 placed among sloping rocks as to seem
inaccessible. The few Monks who reside here
have formed their little gardens upon terraces,

(2) Hist. Phlloe. ot Polit. du Comm. Sec. dans le Mcr Noire. Vcn.
8to. 17W. •

316 ^^^^^ '^^^ CAPITAL OF THB CRIUBA,

CHAP, one above another. If there be any thing to
support Formaleonfs opinion, it is the circum-
stance of the foundation of a fnonastery and
chapel so near to the spot. The early ChristianSi
in the destruction of Pagan edifices, ahnost
always erected new buildings, sacred to their
own religion, upon the spot, and often with the
materials, of the old. The Monks of the
monastery, in the ground behind their chapel,
had recently found a small stone column, whose
shaft was seven feet eight indies and a half in
length, and thirteen inches in diameter. Hiis
column, together with a few hroken slahs of
marble, and other antiquities discovered therei
seem to prove, supposing i^ormafeemTj positicm
of Partkenium to be correct, that in this situatioii
stood the old Chersonems^ descrihed hy Strabo^
after speaking of the neWy as in ruins, and
occurring after the Promontory^. That there is
some reason, however, to dissent from the
opinion maintained by Formaleoni^ will appear
in the sequel ; as there is a promontory betwera
the Monastery of St. Oeorge and the barbomr of
Balaclava ; and this, independent of the tradition
concerning it, is perhaps more suited to tim
account Strabo has given of the fane of the dofnum

TToXatd Xipp6vri<Jog KaritrKafJifuvti, Slrab. lib, ?U. 446. §d. Oxan.

TO THB HBRACLEOTIC CH£RS0NESU8. QIJ

virgtnt as well as to the terrible nature of her chap.
rites\ It will be noticed in a subsequent account
of a journey we made along this coast, with
Professor Pallcu, from Balaclava to the extreme
south-western point of the Minor Peninsula of
Chersonesus.

The whole of this little peninsula is marked
by vestiges of antient buildings. The remains
of walls traverse it in so many directions, that
it is impossible to conceive the purposes for
which they were erected. If we were to
enumerate the curious relics at Inkerman, the
rains of the cities of Evpatarium and Chersanems^

(8) '^ On that InhMpitable ehore," says Qibbm, speaking of the
Tmsrica Ckersomenu, ** Enripidesy embellishkig with exquisite art the
of antiquity, lias placed the scene of one of liis affecting trage-
(IpMgen. in Tour,) The bloody sacrifices of Diana, the arrival
af OrmU§ and PyHadeM^ and the triumph of virtue and religion orer
Mvage fierceness, serre to represent an historical truth, that the
Tmariy the oriffuuU inhabitants qf the Pemnsula, voere in eome degree
reelaimedfrom their bruttd numnen, 6y a gradual interoowree with the
Qredan eoiame$f tehieh eettled along the maritime eoaet. This seems
to eoDoede more to allegory than is consistent with the antient history
of the Greek Drama; in which so much attention was paid to the
slri0t tmor either of record or tradition. It is uncertain to iHiich of
tihe Heathen Goddesses the demon virgin of Strabo may be referred,
the editor of the Osifard Straboijp, 446. in Not.) suspecU that she
WM of SeyUdan orij^n. Her image was beliered to have fallen from
iKATcn. Orette$ carried it into Greece ; but tbe base of the statue,
•eeording to Ovid, remained. In the language of the Tauriy her
eaiUeft Totaries, she was called Onihehe. Ovid calls her Oristka
Dbjl: Jjpiff. 1. «r F^snf . <i6. i.

■T.

218 VROU THE CAPITAL OF THB CRIMEA,

ciMP. of the fortresses, and other huildings aloDg the
coast, at Balaclavaj and other parts of this small
district, we shall not find more to interest a
literary traveller, in any equal extent of territory.
From the Monaster^/ of St. George we returned
to Aktiavy having promised to spend the re-
mainder of the day with Prince Viazemsioy.
As there were no post-horses, he had kindly
supplied us with his own ; and his attentions,
during the time we remained, demand our
grateful acknowledgment.

Afterwards, we set out again, hy the common
road, to Balaclava^ with a view to examine that
place, and then to traverse the whole coast, as
far as Alusta. This journey not only compre-
hends the finest scenery of the Crimea, hut also
completes our survey of its southern shore. So
Bala- much has heen said hy travellers of the famous
Valley of Baidar, that the Vale of Balaclava,
although hardly surpassed hy any scene in
the Crimea^ has hitherto escaped notice. The
wild gigantic landscape, towards its southern
extremity surroxmding the town ; its mountains,
ruins, and harhour; its houses covered hy
vines and flowers, or overshadowed hy thick
foliage of mulberry and walnut-trees j make it
altogether enchanting. The ruins at Balaclava

are those of the IIAAAKION of Straho ; whence

dava.

TO THB H£R.\CLEOTIC CHERSONESUS. QlQ

some believe the town to have derived its pre- ciiap.
sent name. Others, perhaps with more reason,
suppose the name to have had a Genoese origin }
and they derive it from Bella Ciava, the Beau*
tifal Port. Its harbour was the 2YMB0AQN
AIMHN, Partus Symholorum ; whose entrance
Strabo so characteristically describes'. Nothing
can exceed the fidelity with which he has
designated the coasts of the Crimea ; a circum-
stance perhaps owing to the vicinity of his
native country ; the situation of Amasia enabling
him to acquire a familiar knowledge of the shores
of the Muxine. In his account of the Archipelago
and of the Mediterranean^ although always an
accurate writer, he does not evince an equal
degree of precision. According to him, the
port of Balaclava, together with the Ctenus^ or
harbour of Inkerman, constituted by their ap-
proach an isthmus of forty stadia, or five miles :
this, with a wall, fenced-in the Minor Pen-
insula, having within it the city of Chersonesus^ .
The wall we afterwards found, in an excursion
with Professor Pallas; and its extent corre-
sponded with Strab(fs account.

(1) " Kai fUT air^v, Xifirfv arivocrofkOQ. £t post hanc, portas an-
gofto inlroitu." Strab. lib. vii. p. 446. cd. Oxon.
(Vi Ibid.

220 ¥BOU THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

CHAP. The port of Balachwa is certainly oae of the
most remarkable in the Crimea. From the town
it appears like one of the smallest of our northern
lakes, land-locked by high precipitous moun-
tains. Although its entrance is so narrow, that
ships can barely obtain a passage, yet it affords
excellent anchorage, and security in all weather
from the dreadful storms of the Black Sea.
Ships of war find sufficient deptii of water, and
a safe asylum here. The heights around it are
the first objects descried by vessels sailing
from Oonstantmaple. But if any ilL-fated ma-
riner, driyen by tempests, sought shelter in the
port of Balaclava during the reign of Paul, his
vessel was speedily repulsed, or sunk, by an
enemy as inhospitable as the wind or the waves.
The inhabitants had small pieces of artillery
stationed upon the heights, with the most po-
sitive orders, from that insensate tyrant, to fire
at any vessel presuming to take refuge there.
The town is colonized by Greeks from the Morea;
a set of daring pirates, to whom the place was
assigned by the late Empress, for the services
they rendered to Russia in her last war with the
Turks. We found the inhabitants of MisUra^
of Corinth^ of the isles Cephalonxa^ Zante, &c.
living, without any intermixture of Tahtars or
of Russians^ according to the manners and the
customs of their own country. We were treated

TO THB HERACLEOTIC CHER80NE8US.

221

by them, bs we had reason to expect would be chap.
the case, with every degree of politeness and
of hospitality. The evident symptoms of the
violent fever which the author had caught in
the bad air of Inkerman might have induced
many a worthy landlord to deny him admission
to his house, through fear of the plague ; but
the brave Spartan, Feodosia\ with whom he
lodged at Bakzclavaj not only received his whole
party, but attended the invalid with all the
solicitude of a kind friend. We arrived by
moonlight: Feodosia^s house was beautifully
situate upon a rock, near the harbour. The
variety of diffisrent nations found in the Crimeoj
each Uving as in its own country, practising its
peculiar customs, and preserving its religious
rites, is one of the remarkable circumstances
which render the Peninsula curious to a stranger :
at Baktcheserai, Tahtars and Turks; upon
the rocks above them, a colony of Karaite Jews ;
at Baxaclava, a horde of Greeks ; an army of
Russians at Akmetchet ; in other towns, Ana-
tolians and Armenians ; in the steppes, NagaySj
GipsieSj and Calmucks : so that, within a small
compass, as in a menagerie, contrasted sped-

(1) A corrupt mode of pronoanciDg Tkeodtmia; ms Theodore if often
pronoimoed JPkodore ; and Theodoriey Feodorie; Federie, and FMUrie:
tfaoa we ha?e the ttngiilar derimtlon of Frederic from Theodore.

222

CHAP.
V.

FROM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

mens of living rarities are singularly associated.
Nor is it only with a view to its modem statis-
tical history that the traveller finds so much
to interest him ; his attention is continually
diverted from mere statistical considerations by
the antiquities of^the country. At Balaclava
they offered for sale several Cheek coins, of
uncommon beauty and rarity: the most re-
markable were of silver. Of these we shall
briefly notice five, which are not generally
known*.

Oenoeie
Fortress.

Upon the heights above the mouth of the
port, are the ruins of a magnificent fortress,
built by the Genoese when they possessed this
harbour. The arms of Genoa are upon H;he

(1) They were as follow: A silver medal of Heradea^ prjbcipui
NiTOBiS) to use the words of Pliny concerning the city to which it
belonged. Heradea, according to that author, was the name of the
CherMonenan city ; and this medal exhibits upon one side a bearded
head of Hercules, covered by the lion's spoils ; and npon the other,
within an hidented square, the word HPAKAEIA, with the letters
A AM. A silver medal of Phocis, of similar size and workmanship,
haying on one side a buIPs foce ; and for reverse, the head of ApoUo,
with the letters 40RI. A third in sUver, and of the same siie, per-
haps of Elib : it has on one side an eagle's head, and for reverse a
thunderbolt. A fourth, of yet smaller size, and of the same metal, is
unknown : it has upon one side a scorpion ; and upon the other, within
an indented square, a dolphin. A Jifth, and last, was a bronze medal of
RhtBmetalces king of Bosporus, having in front the regalia sent from
Rome for his coronation, with the legend BA2IA EQS POIMHTAAKOY,
and for reverse, the lettcn» MH in a wreath of laurel.

TO THE HBRACLEOTIC CHERSONESITS. 223

walls. The mountain upon the north-east side y.

is covered with its mouldering towers ; and the
rock itself has been so excavated, as to contain
stately magazines and chambers, whose sides
are lined with coloured stucco. It is surprising
that the inhabitants of Balaclava do not make
use of these caves ; for they are very habitable,
and the stucco is still in the highest preservation.
We entered one of them: it was a spacious
oblong chamber, lined throughout with stucco,
resembling that of the famous Piscina mirabile\
near the supposed villa of Lucullust at Baia in
Italy. We could form no conjecture for what
purpose this place was designed, unless it were
intended for a granary or store-room: it bore
no marks of any aqueous deposit, therefore it
could not have been used as a reservoir for
water. The mountains, surrounding the port, oeoiogy
are of red and white marble, fidl of cracks and c^l^,
fissures; but calculated for ample quarries, if
worked beyond the surface. The shore is in
some parts covered by fine glittering sand,
whose particles entirely consist of gold-coloured
mca^ in a state of extreme division ; fitted for

(S) A cement containing arenaceous pumice, or puxzolana^ wo In*
(hnmted by age and the effect of water, that it Is sosceptible of a high
poliih. Speeiment of this substance, bearing the name of " poOsked
mortar,'' are sold a« curiosities by tlie lapidaries of Naples.

324

FROM THE CAPITAL OF THE CRIMEA,

the most beautiful writing-sand that can be
used : and as this may be here obtained in any
quantity, it might perhaps answer as an article
of commerce ; since nothing that has been sold
by stationers, for a similar purpose, can be
compared with this micaceous sand of Balaclava*
When scattered over fresh writing, it produces
an effect as if the ink had been covered with
minute scales of polished gold ; which it will
retain for any number of years. This is the
kind of gold dust alluded to by Trehellms Poll%o\
with which the Emperor Gallienus powdered his
hair. It is still used by the women of Armenia^
and some other parts of the East^ for the same
ornamental purpose.

Extroor- The appearance of so much mica might

Geological inducc au opiuion that a mbstratumy anterior in

mena. its formation to the rocks which surround the

port, cannot lie very deep : but there is no part

of the world where geological phcenomena are so

extraordinary. Pallas often confessed, that in

all his travels he had never met with anv

similar appearances^. It is impossible to con-

(1) TreheU. Pollio, Vit GaUien. ap. Hist. Aognst Script, torn. II.
p. 233. L, Bat. 1672.

(I) Tlie small treatise he extracted from the Journal of his T^aTels
m the Crimea in 1794, and published at Petenburg in 1706, has been
before noticed. It is so extremely rare, that the Reader may pertiaps be

gratiflad

TO THE HSRACLBOTIC CHERS0NBSU9. g^

jectnre the depth where the primitive foundation chap.
of granite lies : there are no traces of any such
suhstance, not even among the pebbles on the
coast. The strata of the Crimea have been
formed by a process so inexplicable, that no
attention to their position wiU afford matter for
any regular systematic arrangement. The tra-
veller advancing from the Isthmus of Perecop^
towards the chain of mountains extending along
the southern coast, finds the great northern
plain of the Peninsula consisting of a soft
calcareous deposit, by an alternate series of
depressed surfaces continually sinking towards
the soutlu Almost all the principal elevations

gimtified by the insertion of a short extract concerning the singuhir
phgnjinena displayed in the geology of the Penintnla. " Dans on
pays qui a d«s montagnes si ^levees, que quelqoe part la neige et la
glace s'y eonsenrent pendant toute Tet^, qui d'aiUeurs et Isold par la
met, on devroit, selon let loiz g^ndrales de la nature, s^ttendre k trou-
Ttf k$ frois crdrm de montagnes : les prunUivei granitiqaes poor centre
d'ti6mtion : ks schisteoses sSeondaires; et les iertiare* k cooohes ho-
liaontaleSy m^ldes de petrifactions; on bien, comme en Sicile, on noyau
oa MMlins v^ktadquSf et les coaches sdoondaires et tertiares tor les eon-
tourt. ICais en Tauride O n'exlste ni Ton ni Tantre de ces arrangements
obserr^ dans tons les antres pays de montagne. L'on ne volt, dans
Petearpement maritime de tonte la hante chaine des Alpes de la Tan-
ride rien que des coaches s6condaircs da dernier ordre, inclin6es sor
llwrison k an angle pins on moins approchant celui de 45 ddgrds, et
pnsqoe Urates plus on molns paralitica pos^ dans nne direction qui
▼arie eatre le sod-onest et le nord-oaest. Toutes ces coache%K)nt done
coopte par la direction de la c6te, et on le yoit toatcs k ddcoaTcrt sor
Tesearpement maritime des montagnes, eomme le$ feuUleU tCunUvre
on la f omef ifune bibHoihique.'' Tab, de la Tour, pp, 3, 4, 5.

ggg FROM THB CAPITAL OF THE CRIlfEA.

of the globe rise from the east^ and fall towards
the west. The declivities of the CrimeOy and the
precipitous sides of its mountains, are all
opposed to the south. Perhaps a more familiar
exposition of these geological phenomena may
be afforded, by saying, that the perceptible
elevations of the Peninsula, visible even in its
plains, resemble, by their alternate order, the
teeth of a saw.

Towards the south, its highest mountains are
all broken abruptly, as if by the sinking of the
main bed in the depths of the Black Sea. To-
wards the northj a tertiary deposit of calcareous
matter, filled with the remains of shells, extends
beyond the Isthmus of Perecop, even to the
Dnieper. Hence the exterior, or upper stratOf
of the Peninsula are proved to consist of calca-
reous matter, of very recent formation ; and in
this there is nothing otherwise remarkable, than
the evidence afforded, by the remains of marine
bodies, of the draining of a vast body of water
from the great Plain of Tahtary ; a subject we
shall not now further discuss. But the wonder
is, that where mountains have attained an eleva-
tion of above twelve hundred feet, no trace,
either o/ primitive granite, or, as a leader to it.
Gneiss, or any regular schistose deposit, should
appear. Beneath these enormous calcareous

TO THB HBHACLEOTIC CHERSteNESUS.

227

isses, pillars, if they may be so called, of chap.
rble, of trap^ of claj/^ of common limestone^ and
schisltiSf make their appearance, in parallel
1 almost vertical veins, propping up the
lerincumhent strata. Pallas forcibly illus-
tes their position, by observing, that they
nd like books upon the shelf of a library\
lese veins alternate with each other ; and
iiough they be somewhat inclined, leaning
m north-west towards the south-east, yet
ir position, in certain instances, is nearly
Heal. These extraordinary phaenomena may
discerned all along the south-western coast :
I that the depth to which they extend must
very great, is evident from the appearance
die marble mountains of Balaclava^ whose
idpitous elevation from the sea denotes a
responding depth below the .water. When
i veins of clay are washed away by the sea,
her vast chasms are left, or the neighbouring
ins &11 in; as it happened upon the south
1st at KutcMckot/f not long ago, where a whole
lage was buried. Sometimes veined slate
pears within the claj/f and often blocks of wood,
impregnated with bitumen that they burn Me
ai. The coast of Balaclava consists entirely
marble : more towards the north-west, as at

(I) See the Note to p. 225.
VOL. II. Q

ggg BALACLAVA.

CHAP, the Monastery of St. George^ it is formed of black,
v^pv^ slate ; farther on, the other substances occur^
according to the order and position ahready^
described. North of the coast, these veins ara
^ covered by calcareous matter, fiill of the remaiuB

of organized bodies. The extraneous fossils of
the Crimea are exceedingly curious ; many of
them relate to animals now unknown. Among
ihese may be mentioned the Lapis manmularmf
very common here, but elsewhere extremely
rare. It is found near to Chrand CmrOf and
at the base of the greater Pyramid in Egypt^
and in some parts oi France^.

^A^ui^^ '^^ streets of Balaclava perhaps resemble

Greek the appcarauce they exhibited in antient times.

The principal street is very like that of Pampeiij

(1) Strdbo noticed this foMll at the Pyramidt of Egffpt ; and ire
afterwards found it there, exactly as by him described. He snpposed^it
to have been formed of the lentils petrified^ which were given as food to
the workmen employed in building the Pyramids. PalUu has attempted
to account for its origin by an opinion entirely his own. " I cannot on
this occasion omit to express my opinion respecting a fossU, the origin ni
which has not hitherto been explored. As its external shells have no
orifice whatever, and may easily be separated from each other ; while
its internal cellnlar texture, consisting of annular difisions and thjnhtnal
scales, has not the least resemblance to the abode of a testaceoos animal,
but rather to the loner 8tni#ure of a cuttle-fish bone ; I am induced to
conjecture that the lenticular stones have originated in the shell or bone of
a peculiar gregarious species of DorUyOt Sepia, which formerly inhabited
the deep, has in process of time been mixed with the calcareous mire de-
posited by the sea, and thus at length become completely extinct j so
that we possess no account of its living state." 7\aveli, vol, II- jp. 81.

BALACLAVA. ^g

near NapUsy which has been laid open ; being chap.
quite as natrow, and being also paved after the
same manner; only the materials of the Balaclava
pavement consist of variegated red and white
marble, instead of lava. The appearance of the
stones proves that the marble of Balaclava is
susceptible of a very high polish. The shops
are also like those of Pompeii; and theinhabitants^
as in that city, are all of them Greeks. Their
uiiform adherence to the antient costume of
their country, although a little theatrical, autho-
rizes the allusion. They wear helmets ; but
these being made of green and of red morocco,
and not a little greasy with use, cause the Greeks
of Balaclava to exhibit rather a caricature, than
a correct portrait of their progenitors. The
fruit-market here is a very good one, particularly
for melons. We entered one of their melon
shops, containing about two thousand water-
melonsy heaped into a regular square mass : these
were selling for ten copecks the dozen ; less than
8 halfpenny each. The water-melon of the Crimea
does not grow to half the size it attains at Naples ;
bat its flavour is nearly the same. At Cherson^
&rther towards the north, it grows as large as in
Italy. Vines cover the porticoes of all the doors
in Balaclava : so rapid is the growth of that plant,
that, within two years, if they told us the truth,
a vine yielded two bushels of grapes. They

230 BALACLAVA.

CHAP, have no foreign commerce. The rest of their

w^rw shops were appropriated to the sale of the few

of^ePeo- necessaries required by the inhabitants; who

^^^' seemed to lead an idle life, smoking, taking

coffee, chewing tobacco or opium, lounging about

the streets, or playing at chess or at draughts,

in the coffee-houses, or before the doors of their

dwellings. We observed a game here which

was quite new to us ; the Cfreeks call it Mai^

gala. We saw it afterwards in Constantinaplt.

It is played with a board having two rows of

parallel partitions : into each of these was placed

a certain number of small shells, such as the

natives of Guinea use for moneys

We found it necessary to leave our carriage
at Balaclava^ in order to visit the celebrated
Valley of Baidar. The passage is performed on
horseback, over high mountains, covered with
wood to their summits, and having more of the
Apennine than of the Alpine character : the
mountains which border the coast of the Crimea
partdke of neither ; they cannot be said to re-
semble those of any other country.

(1) The Cyprca moneta of Idmuau,

Honey.

Vc^scb of Terra Cotia, preienring anti^ac formsi in uc among the Taklan.

CHAP. VI.

FROM THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSONEUS^ ALONG THE
SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

Valley ofBaidar — Domestic Habits and Manners
of the Tahtars — Passage of the Merdveen —
Kutchuchoy — Plants and Minerals — Transir
tians — CkiA-metopon — Ataupha — Other Fi7«
lageson the Coast — Country between Kutchuc-
hoy and Stidah — Tahtar School — Vestiges of
the Genoese Language — Ruins of a Greek
Monastery — Ai'vdagh Promontory — Par-
themt—Alusta-Tchetirdagh^ or Mons Tra-

ip.
1.

•y of

VALLEY OF BAIDAR,

PEZUS — Shuma — Position of ike Crimean
Mountains — Derykeiiy — Mahmoud Sultan —
Return to Akmetchet — Marriage Ceremony of
the Greek Ckurck — Jeunsk Wedding — Military
Force of tke Crimea — Suvorof.

XHERE is no part of the Crimea whicli has
been more extolled by preceding traveUers
'^'^^^ iban the Vall^ of Baidar. It has been de-
scribed under the pompous titles of the Tamric
AreadiOf and the Crimean Tempe^y with much
warmth of fancy, an^ as it might be expected)
with some fallacy ^ repreaentaticm. If any
attempt be now made to dispel the illusion thus
excited, it is in the hope that others coming
after may not meet with disappointment. '< Even
the vales of Caucasus^'* says Palku^f ** far surpass
this celebrated spot." It will not admit of a
comparison with many of the beautiful scenef
in Switzerland^ nor even with those in Norwai
and Sweden. A very extensive cultivated plaii
surrounded by high mountains, may be co
sidered as one of those pleasing prospects whi
call to mind the description given by John
oihia Abyssinian Vale; but, being destitute
wat^r as an ornament, it is deficient in a p
cipal object of picturesque scenery. The v;

(1) S<:c tlu} TravcU of Lady Craven, Mrs. Maria Guthrie, &c.
(3) Tra¥eli in the South of Russia, vol. II. p. 135.

(3) '"Hiifl fiumniB ralley belongs to Admiral Mordmqf; hat his
pQfion wmt contested when we were there, and the rents were
paid to GoTemmenty in deposit. Many of the Russian proprietors of
^ Crimea were in the same condition, owing to the following eircom-
•tances, as th^ were represented to me by a young man, named the
Count de Rochfoft, who was nephew to the Duke qf Richeliea.
Uoder tlie terrors of conquest, the Tahtar proprietors made little
oppoaitkm to the grants which were made of their lands; but now
that they are again in some measure restored to their rights, such as
did not come properly under the description of emigrants have com-
meaeed ptoceises to obtain a reversion of their forfeitures, which was
a very unexpected blow to their masters. The Russians, since the
conquest, have established their abominable code of slavery ; but not
on so rigid a footing as in their own country. Two da3rs a week, we
miderstood from Pallas, is all the work a Tahtar is obliged to do gratis
for his lord; and the Russians complain heavily of their idleness.
the mountaineers are almost all either entirely freeholders, or on the
footing of peasants of the crown. The number of Russian residents
in the Crimea is reduced greatly. Some have taken alarm at the
tenure of their lands ; others have sustained great losses by their
slaves running away, some of whom are received and concealed by
the Knban Cossacks ; which however is now prevented by the Duke
of Richdicu's government, which includes the whole country up to
Caucasus, and the Caspian." Heber^s MS. Journal.

IN THR CRIMEA. QgS

itseU, abstractmg all consideration of the moun-
taina around, may be compared to many parts
of Britain; particularly to the vales of Kent
and of Surrey. It is rather more than ten miles
in length, and six in breadth ; beautifully cul-
tivated, so that the eye roams over meadows,
woods, and rich com-iields, inclosed and inter-
sected by green hedges, and garden plantations'.
The villages are neat, and the mhabitants are
healthy. Their fields, protected firom violent

S34 VALLEY OF BAIDAR,

^^^- winds, and irrigated by clear streams failing
from the hills, seem to afford them a happy
retreat; and our ride through the valley was
very pleasing. The mode of inclosure, and the
manner of cultivation, resemble those of our
own country. The mountains, and the plain,
are thick set with oak, wild pear, crab, and
camelian cherry-trees, whose foliage shaded
the road, and protected us from the scorch-
ing rays of the sun; otherwise darting with
uncommon force into this valley. Our lodg-
ing at night, and our meals by day, were
entirely among Tahtars : this circumstance,
enabled us to witness the domestic habits of the
people. When a stranger arrives, they con-
duct him into an apartment appropriated solely
for men, and present to him a bason, water,
and a clean napkin, to wash his hands. Then
they place before him whatsoever their dwell-
ing affords, of curd, cream, honey in the
comb, poached eggs, roasted fowls, or fruit
After the meal is over, the bason and water are
brought in as before ; because the Tahtars, like
the Turks and other Oriental nations, eat with
their fingers; not using forks. Then, if the
visit be made in the house of a rich Tahtar, a
long pipe is presented, having a tube of cherry-
tree wood, tipped with amber or ivory. After
this, carpets and cushions are laid for the

IN THE CBIMBA. 2S5

guests, that they may repose. The houses of chap;
the TahtarSf even the cottages of the poor,
are extremely clean, hemg often white*washed.
The floor generally consists of earth ; but this is
smooth, firm, dry, and it is covered with mats
and carpets. The meanest Tahtar possesses a
doable dwellmg ; one for himself and his guests,
and another for his women. They do not allow
their most intimate friends to enter the place
allotted to the female part of the fsunily. We
were quite surprised to find, that, with so much
deanliness, the itch was a prevalent disorder.
It was also difficult to escape attacks from
venomous insects and vermin. The tarantula,
the scorpion, the cock-roach, different kinds of
lice, bugs, fleas, flies, and ants, more or less
incommoded us in the place where we rested \
and we found it necessary to reconcile our-
selves, occasionally, to the appearance of a
few large toads crawling near to our beds.
With all these inconveniences, we nevertheless
deemed the change, from a Russian palace to
a Tahtar cottage^ very desirable. In the houses
of Russian grandees, imwholesome filth is
ill concealed by external splendour: but the
floor and the walls of a Tahtar' $ residence, be
it but a cottage, are white and clean. Even the
place where his fire bums is unsoiled by smoke ;
and if the traveller be properly cautioned

236 VALLEY OF BAIDAR,

CHAP, to avoid the contact of woolen clothes and
"" carpets, he may consider himself secure.

Domestic A favouiite beverage of sour milk mixed
M^en^ with water, the yowrt of the Turks^ is found to
ToAtorf. ^ ^ request among the Tahtars^ as among the
Laplanders. They aU shave their heads, both
young and old ; and in their houses they wear
a sort of scull-cap; over this, in winter, is
placed a larger and loftier helmet in wool; cht
during summer, a turban. Their legs, in winter,
are swathed in cloth bandages, like those worn
throughout Russia^ and their feet are covered by
the kind of sandal before represented \ In sum-
mer, their legs and their feet are naked* Their
shirts, like those in Turkey ^ are wide and loose
at the sleeves, hanging down below the ends of
their fingers. If they have occasion to use their
hands, either to eat or to work, they cast back
the sleeve of the shirt upon the shoulder;
leaving the arm bare. The jacket or waistcoat
is generally of silk and cotton : the trowsers are
made very large, fiiU, and loose ; and, although
bound tight below the knee, they fall in thick folds
upon the calf of the leg. A small pocket, in the
waistcoat, below the breast, serves to keep the

(1) Seetho Vignette to the Tenth Chapter of the FInt Volame. J

15 THB CRIMEA. 297

Steel and flint for kindling their pipes. Some* chap.
times, in the summer, they cover their feet with
morocco slippers, hut these are always tajken
off when they enter their apartments. Upon
similar occasicms we took off our hoots ; thin
was a trouUesome ceremony : hut they were
evidently uneasy if we sat down without
attending to this piece of etiquette. They have
no chairs in their houses ; a single stool, ahout
three inches high, answers the purpose oi a
table, for supporting a tray during their meals.
This stool is often ornamented, either with
carved work, or it is inlaid* with mother-of-pearL
The use of a carpet and of matting for the floor
is universal: sometimes, as a substitute^ they
employ thick cloths of their own manufacture
from goat's hair: these are exported to Cim-
stantinaple. Of whatever material the covering
gI the floor may he, they are careful to keep it
dean) hut, after all, it is apt to swarm with
vermin. During the summer months, the men
make very little use of that part of the dwelling
which is peculiarly set apart for them. Their
chief delight consists in living exposed to the
open air ; sleeping at night heneath the portico
before their door, or under the shade of fine
spreading trees cultivated near their houses.
In the principal chamber of a Tahiar dwelling
is a place bearing the name of sofa ; this answers
to the Turkish dwdn; it is a platform raised

238 VALLBV OF BAIDAR,

CHAP, twelve inches from the floor, occupying one
entire side of the apartment ; not for the purpose
however, of a seat, hut as a receptacle for their
household chests : for the Dii domesticij and for
heaps of carpets, mats, cushions, and clothes.
The same custom may be observed in the tents
of the Calmucks. Simplicity generally . charac-
terizes the manners and dress of the Taktars;
yet some of their customs betray a taste for
finery. Their piUows are covered with coloured
linen ; and the napkins for their frequent ablu-
tions are embroidered and fringed. If one of
their guests chance to fall asleep, although but
for a few minutes during the day, they bring
him water to wash himself as soon as they
perceive he is awake. In their diet they make
great use of honey. Their mode of keeping and
taking bees accords with the usual simplicity
of their lives. They form cylinders, about six
inches in diameter, from the trunks of young
trees, scooping out almost all the wood, ex-
cepting the bark ; then, closing the extremities
of these cylinders with mortar or with mud,
they place them horizontally, piled upon one
another, in their gardens, for hives. They often
opened such cylinders, to give us fresh honey :
the bees were detached, merely by being held
over a piece of burning paper, without any aid
of sulphur. The honey of the Crimea is of a
very superior quality j the bees, as in Geeece,

VI.

IN THE CRIMEA. Q$g

feeding upon blossoms of the wild thyme of ^^^p.
the mountains, and the indigenous flowers of
the country. Every Tahtar cottage has its
garden, in the cultivation of which the owner
finds his principal amusement Vegetation is
so rapid, that within two years, as already
stated in the account of BalctdavOj young vines
not only form a shade before the doors, but
appear actually laden with fruit The TaJitars
delight to have their houses buried, as it were,
in foliage. These dwellings consist each only
of one story, with a low flat roof, beneath trees
spreading immense branches quite over the
whole building ; so that a village, at a distance,
is only known by the tufied grove wherein it
lies concealed. When the traveller arrives,
not a house is to be seen : it is only after
passing among the trees, and beneath their
branches, that he begins to perceive cottages,
overshadowed by the exuberant vegetation of
the walnut, the mulberry, the vine, the fig, the
dive, the pomegranate, the peach, the apricot,
the plum, the cherry, and the tall black poplar
tree : all of which, intermingling their clustering
produce, form the most beautiful and fragrant
canopies that can be imagined.

In every Tahtar house they preserve one or
more copies of the Kordn ; these are always in

VI.

2^ VALLBY OF BAIDAR.

CBNiP. manuscript, and they are generally written in
very beautiful characters. The children are
early taught, not only to read, but to copy
them. The size of the cap, or bonnet, is all
that distinguishes the priests of the different
villages from the test of the community ; being
made much larger for them, and rising to a
greater height from the head. The horses of
the country, although not equal to those of
CirMssia, are remarkable for their high breed,
as well as for their beauty and swiftness : they
are small and very sure footed, but rath^
stouter than Circassian horses, considered the
fleetest and most beautiful race of coursers in
the world. If travellers be provided with an
order from the Governor of the district, the
Tahtars are compelled to provide horses, lodging,
and even provisions, gratis. We bad this order \
but we took no advantage of the privilege
annexed to its possession ; a mode of conduct
consistent with English customs and English
opinions ; but diametrically opposite to those
of jRt^^sia, where it is considered degrading to
bestow a thought upon making any remxmera-
tion, unless it be a matter of compulsion.

To avoid the intense heat of the middle of the
day, we began our journey towards the coast
on Taesday the fifth of August j at five o'clock in

SOUTH COAST OF THE ORIMBA. ^l

the morning. Leaving the Valley ofBaidar^ we chap.
ascended the mountains inclosing it towards the v^v^/
south. By dint of actually climbing among
rocks and trees, through a very Alpine pass,
we at length attained the heights above the
sea. Here a descent began towards the shore,
and a vast and terrific prospect was opened.
Naked rocks rose perpendicularly, to such
amazing elevation, that even the wide and
misty sea, dashing its waves against their
bases, was unheard at the immense distance,
and appeared insignificant, when compared with
the vastness of the objects to which it was
opposed. Between their craggy summits, we
were conducted to the Merdveen^ a name signi- PaMage or
fying * stair f in the Tahtar language : these steps veen.
.were hewn in the natural rock in some remote
age. Here we alighted, and left our horses to
themselves ; beginning a laborious and a difficult
descent. A passage of this nature, less preci-
jntous, exists in the Island of Caprea^ near
Naples. It leads from the modem town of
Capri to Anacapri ; but horses are never seen
there. The only beasts of burden are asses,
generally laden with fagots. There are similar
scenes in the AlpSj but not of greater boldness ;
neither have they the addition of the sea in the
perspective. After we had completed the
passage of the Merdveeuj being still at a great

g4S SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

CHAP, elevation above the sea, we continued to skirt
vi«

the bases of rocks towards the east, until we

^te*Aj- reached a village called Kutchuchay^ hanging
upon a lofty declivity below the great southern
range of perpendicular precipices. The doubtful
path to this village is so narrow and dangerous,
that few would venture with any other than a
Tahtar horse ; and even so provided, it is often
necessary to alight and walk.

Plants and The plauts and minerals of the south of the
Crimea merit particular attention. A catalogue
of all the vegetable productions collected by
us, whether in this interesting tract, or in other
parts of our journey within the Peninsula^ wiU
be found in the Appendix^ being much too nu-
merous even for a marginal annotation. Appro-
priated solely to the botanical history of the
Crimea^ it may there serve as a compendious
Flora Taurica^ for the use of other travellers ;
and will not interrupt the perusal which persons
who are not interested in botanical subjects
may bestow upon the narrative of these Travels.
At the same time, when any opportunity ofiers
of noticing a plant not hitherto described, it
may be mentioned in the text without too much
intrusion. With a very superficial knowledge
of Botany, we possessed the advantage, not
only of guidance in our reseaches, but of every

SOUTH GOABT OF THE CRIMEA. g43

aid and contribution which the labour and libe- oiiap.

VI.

rality of our friend Pallas conid possibly afford.

The principal spontaneous vegetable production
of the rocks and mountains upon the south
coast, is the wild sage ; this, as in the islands
of the ArchtpelagOf attains very considerable
size ; becoming, in certain instances, tall enough
to rank as a shrub. Both the yellow and the
red centaury were also very common. The hlack
date-tree, the pomegranate, the olive, and the^^-
tree^ flourished along the coast, as in the South
of Italy. With regard to geological phsenomena, oeoiogy.
it may be added, that the rocks and strata near
the village of KutcMckoy are composed of trap
and schittus, highly impregnated with iron.
In proportion as this metal is combined with
ahtmmous rocks, a tendency to decomposition,
owing to the action of the atmosphere, may be
more or less observed. The prismatic configu-
ration and firacture of trap, of basalt, and of
some other rocks, although evidently the result
of a tendency towards crystallization^, may be

(1) Of this a more con?inciiig proof can hardly be adduced, than
thai the Sibtritm mnmrdUL, whose colouring principle it iron, and whoee
matrix abounds in iron oxide, not only preserves the hexagonal form
eommoa to the pillars of the QianVi CausetDoy, but, when fresh du^ir,
eiblbits also the same remarkable alternate convex and concave hori- *
sootal flssores. Sre Patrin. Hiit* Nat, da Min, torn. II. p. 2d. Par, An. P.

VOL. II. U

VI.

244 BOOTH COAST OF THB CRIMBA.

CHAP, perhaps ascribed to the iron in their composition.
Where the oxide of iron is found to be a predo-
minant feature in mineral stratHf veins, fissures,
and separations of the substance, may g^iwally
be noticed: and, vice versdf if the external
figure of the mass in aluminous rocks be evidently
prismatic^ there is reason to apprehend the pre-
sence of this metal, in a mofre than usual
propcxrtion. These observations merit the con-
sideration of more scientific geologists. In
addition to the fietcts necessary for their con-
firmaticmi it may be mentioned, that the
phsenomena of the GianCs Causeway^ upon the
north coast of Ireland ; of the pillars of trap at
HaUeherg and HtMmeherg in Sweden^ and at the
LaJte Bobenna in Italy j and many other places ;
are only regular in their prismatic forms where
they have been long exposed to the action of
the atmosphere. When the exterior surface has
been thrown down, the mterior of the mass
exhibits only an appearance of incipient de-
composition.

Trans. The supposcd transitions^ or the passages^ (as

they are termed by tiome French and by many
German mineralogists) firom one mineral species
to another, might meet with at least a semblance
of reality upon this coast : so insensible is the

itions.

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. 245

apparent boundary between aluminaus and sili- ^^f^-
eeatis bodies, in some examples; such, for in-
stance, as the transition from yellow indurated
day to jasper ; and from trap to homstane. In
the Museum at TVimy ent, in the north of Norway f
the Danes exhibit what they call a passage from
carbonated lime to sUex ; and in Copenhagen^ entire
collections have berai formed of similar ap-
pearances. The Norwegian specimen is howerer
nothing more than a flint, part whereof has
vndergoiie a very high degree of decomposition,
nmilar to the substance found in the neighbour-
hood of Paris, called Pierre legire, and Quartz
nedique. The French have exhibited such ap-
pearances in the same erroneous point of view.
The Abbi Haiiy\ and the celebrated Chenevix,
haye derided the vulgar notion of transi-
tions in the mineral kingdom; involving the
science in a labyrinth of ^^ passages, which lead to
moihmgJ*

So(m aflter the capture of the Orimea, precisely
at the time of terrible earthquakes in Hungary
and Transyhania, a large portion of the immense
diff above the village of KutchUchoy fell down,
and buried it The late Empress caused the
place to be restored at her own expense.

(I > Traits de Min^ralogie, torn. III. p. S4S. Par. 1801.

R 2

246 SOUTH COAST OF THB CRIMBA*

CHAP, indemmfying the inhabitants at the same time
for the losses they had sustained.

VI.

From this village to Ahupka^ still proceeding
by a narrow undulating and devious track among
rocks, at a considerable elevation above the sea,
we enjoyed a prospect of the boldest scenery
in the CrimecL Immediately before us we
iqwi!^/ ^^®ld the stupendous Caiii-METOPONy men-
tioned by Strabo^ and by other antient geogra*
phers: this, projecting into the bosom of the
deep, together with th^ opposite promontory of
Caramhej upon the coast of Paphlagania^ divides
the Black Sea into two parts ; so that mariners
sailing between the two capes may descry land
on either side. The antient anonymous geogra-
pher, whose writings were chiefly extracted
from Arrian and from Scymnus Chius^ relates that
IphigeniOj carried from AuliSf came to 'this
country*. Procopiu^j speaking of Taurica Cher*
sonemsy also mentions the Temple of DianOj
where Iphigenia, daughter of Agamemnon^ was
priestess: according to him, the TauA were
her votaries. It is worthy of note, as will here-
after appear, that a promontory and village,
bearing at this day the name of Parthenity evi-
dently corrupted from Partheniumj is found to

(1) Oeogr. Antiq. cd. Gronov. L. Bat, 1697. p. 144.

(2) Procop. de Bell. Goth. lib. iv. c. 6.

rOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

eastward of the CriHi'metaponf in the vicinity
llaiq)ka. Thus, while Straboond Ovid-place
Promontory of Parthenvum in the Heracleotic
rsanestiSf other circumstances seem to fix its
iition near the most southern point of the
nea : and should this be admitted, it woUld
assign, as in the history of other popular
^rstitions, a difierence of locality to the same
I. Leucatej in the Ionian Sea, is not the only
nontory celebrated for the story of the
ef^B Leap.

.8 we advanced, the wide prospect of the
cA Sea extended below upon our right. To-
Is our left, towering to the clouds, and
stimes capped by them, appeared lofty
3d precipices, here projecting in vast pro-
tories, there receding, and forming bays, sur-
ided by craggy rocks, whose sloping sides
mble those immense theatres of Aniient
ece, prepared more by Nature than by
art of man'. The upper strata of these
ntains, notwithstanding their prodigious
eition, are all of limestone. Not a single
ment of granite is any where to be seen.

Tb€ anttent theatres of Oreee€ sometimes consisted of an entire
tarn, to whose natural form seats were adjusted. Of this
pUon Is the theatre at the Hieron, in Epidauria ; at Telmeaui^
I Gulph qfOlautui ; and at Cfueronea, in Bceatia.

247

248

SOUTH COAST OF TUB CRIMSA.

CHAP. Beneath the precipices, and extending to the
w^ water's edge, appears a bold and broken de-
clivity, covered with villages, gardens, woods,
and cultivated spots. Laurels flourished in
several places ; and these were formerlj more
abundant, but the Tahtars have destroyed
many of them, believing that strangers came
only to see these trees, and dreading a visit
from the Russians.

Aiouphh ^^ *^^ evening we arrived at Aluuphou The
inhabitants flocked to visit us, and overwhelmed
us with their hospitality. Each person entering
our little chamber deposited his oflforing ; either
of fresh filberts, walnuts, mulberries, figs, pears,
or other fruit. '* Brandy,'* they said, '* they cenld
not offer us : abstaining from its use, they had
it not/* Less addicted to opium than the Twrks^
they are less slothful : yet they deem it their
greatest happiness to sit still, to smoke, or to
sleep ; having nothing to employ their thoughts,
and as little as possible to do. They sow cmlj
as much com as may be necessary for their
own ^consumption. Their pipes and their IhHrses
are, perhaps, objects of as great affecti<m as
their wives. We found them usually stretched
upon the flat roofs of their cottages, lying upon
thick mats, beneath the shade of their favourite
trees^ either asleep, or inhaling fumes of tobacco.

VI.

SOUTH COAST OF THB-CRIMEA. 249

rhe business, of the harvest had, however, ^^^'
aroosed some of them mto a state of activity.
U we continued our journey, we found them
occupied in collecting it. They beat out their
%xnk as soon as it is gathered. Their mode
nay rather be caUed trampling than thrashing.
Ifter selecting an even spot of ground, they fix
I pole or a stake into the earth, placing the com
n a circle around it, so as to form a circum-
Ssrence of about eight or nine yards in diameter :
hey then attach a horse by a long cord to the
pole^ and continue driving him round and round
vfOD, the com, until the cord is wound upon the
[ide ; after this, turning his head in an opposite
direction, he is again set going, until the cord
be untwisted. By this process they do not
Ul to obtain the whole of the com clean from
the sheaf; but the straw is destroyed. The
chaff is afterwards collected, and carefully
boosed for fodder. They carry their com upon
hones ; but their manner of reaping and mowing,
and of forming enclosures, resembles our own.

The approach to Aloupka^ a village beautifully
situate near the shore, is entirely concealed
from view, by groves of fruit-trees. The
scenery, everywhere along the coast, will
admit of no comparison with any other maritime
district. Such fertility and rural beauty are.

250

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMBA.

CHAP, perhaps, no-where else situate equally near
to the waters of any sea, nor so surrounded by
grand objects. The descent towards the shore
is so steep and rapid, that it seems as if the
villages^ with their groves and gardens, might
be swept by heavy rains, into the deep : at
the same time, cliffs, hanging over them, me-
nace fearful ruin, by the fall of rocks, which
every now and then break loose : their enor-
mous fragments have occasionally halted in sita-
ations where they appear at every instant ready
to rush forward. High above all are the lofty
and rugged summits of the mountains, giving
such a remarkable character to the southern
coast of the Crimea^ that no geographer has
neglected to notice them. Straho forcibly de-
scribes their situation and their nature' : <^ But
from this port of the Symbolic" says he, <* unto
the city of Theodosia, extends the maritime Tau*
rican district, about one thousand^^o^ia in length,
craggy and mountainous, and teeming with
storms/' If, in consequence of some tremen-
dous earthquake, or of a sudden thaw, a por-
tion of these cliffs has been separated from its
native bed, and, rushing into the Black Sea^ has

(1) Merd U rSiv Ivf.^oKiav \tfilva rovrov fiixP^ Otodoffiac TdXiug n
TavpiKi) TrapaXutf x^iui' wov araHiav rb fAiJKoc, Tpaxiia Kai Spuvrj,
Km KaraiyiZovaa rci^s fioplots "idpvrat. Strab, lib. vii. J9.440. ed, Oxan.

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. 251

formed a promontory, or towering bulwark in chap.
the midst of the waves, its summit has heen ^-^^"^
ahnost invariably covered by some antient
fortress; the ruins of which still remain, in
places almost inaccessible. These works are
principally attributed to the Genoese ; although
some of them be of Grrecian origin. The har-
dihood and the enterprise visible in their con-
struction cannot fail to astonish the traveller,
as there seems to be no precipice too lofty or
too dangerous for the .people by whom they
were erected.

On Wednesday^ Atigust the sixths we left other vu-
Aloupha. After journeying in groves, where the coast
mulberry-trees, shading our road, presented
the largest and most delicious fruit, we arrived
at the village of Musghor. Here we found a
few Cheeks^ established as part of a cordon
guarding the southern part of the Peninsula:
they were busied distilling brandy from mul-
berries, a weak but palatable spirit, clear
as water. The scenery, rather improved in
beauty, became yet bolder than before, as
we drew near to a place called Derykeiiy^
inhabited by a small Greek colony, close to
the shore. We found the people employed in
shipping timber of bad quality for Sttdak^ and
for other ports lying eastward. Upon the

VI.

52 SOUTH COAST OF THB CRIMBA.

CHAP, beach were some hulks of Turkish vessels^ quite
rotten ; yet in such frail barks do they venture
across the Black Seato Constantinople; although,
as our interpreter observed, "it would be
indiscreet to risk even a letter by such con-
veyance/' Their appearance convinced us that
the frequent shipwrecks in the Black Sea are
owing, in great measure, to the wretched con-
dition of the Turkish vessels.

Joantry If there exist upon earth a terrestrial para-

((UchHc disc, it is to be found in the district intervening
iwiak. between Kutchiickoy and Sudakf along the south
coast of the Crimea^. Protected by encirddng
Alps from every cold and blighting wind, and
only open to those breezes which are wafted frt>m
the south, the inhabitants enjoy every advantage
of climate and of situation. Continual streams of

(1) '* Kutehuh-koi is a Tillage on the most Bouthem point of the
Crimea; and Is bo called to diatingatah it from another JTot i>0fyMetf
which stands on the hill above Hialta, Near Deryk-koi is the fiofontain
represented in my drawing; it lies in the highway between NUdta
Biiriin and I>eryk-koi. Hialta, a miserable village of Gred», with a
small Greek chnrch, lies to the left; and beyond Deryk-kof, in tiie
way which branches off to Baktcheserai, is a village of Russians,
belonging, I believe, to Admiral Mordvinof.— Abeve Entchuk-koi,
the rocks become much more perpendicular and naked ; and if this
be the CnHL-^metopon^ the name may have been derived from their high
and bold forehead. It is evident from Strabo, that this ihmoos pro-
montory was eastward of the SvfijSoXwv Xifiip', which 1 suppose is Bala-
clava; and therefore vre have only Kutchok-koi and Ayondagh to
choose between.** Heber*$ MS, Journal,

SOUTH COAST OF THB CRIHSA. ^3

crystal water pour down from the mountains chap.
upon their gardens, where every species of .^^
fruit known in the rest of Mvrope^ and many
that are not, attain the highest perfection.
Neither unwholesome exhalations, nor chilling
winds, nor venomous insects, nor poisonous
reptiles, nor hostile neighbours, infest their
blissful territorj. The life of its inhabitants
resembles that of the Golden Age. The soil,
like a hot-bed, rapidly puts forth such variety
of spontaneous produce, that labour becomes
merely an amusing exercise. Peace and plenty
crown their board ; while the repose they so
much admire, is only interrupted by harmless
thunder reverberating in rocks above them, or
by the murmur of the waves upon the beach
below.

At Deryheiiy^ the Tahtar children were assem- ^^
bled in the school of the village, learning to
read* The eldest boy led the way, pronouncing
the lesscm distinctly in a loud tone, from a
manuscript copy of the Kardn. The rest, to
the number of twenty, were squatted, according
to the Tahtar custom, upon little low benches,
accompanying the leader with their voices,
and keeping time by nodding their heads. It
was amusing to observe the readiness of their
little president, to detect any of them in error,

254 SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

CHAP, in the midst of all the noise they made, although
v^p>^^ reading himself with the utmost effort of his
lungs. In the south of the Crimea^ the remains of
Vestiges of the Genoesc langiaage are not quite extinct. Now
ese Un. and then an expression escapes even the lips of
g«age« ^ TahtaVi evidently derived from that people.
During their long residence in the Crimea^ the
Genoese not only introduced many of their own
terms to the native language of the Peninsula^
hut they also incorporate many Tahtar and
Crreek expressions with the Italian; and these
are still used by the inhabitants of Genoa. We
collected several examples of this nature, and
Professor Pallas added to the list. As he has
already alluded to the subject in his late work\
it will be unnecessary to mention more than
two or three instances. In the Tahtar language,
kardasch signifies a ^ brother ' or a ' dear friend ;'
and the word cardascia is now used with
the same interpretation at Genoa ; nuicrami, a
* towel/ in Tahtar^ is macrami in Genoese;
harha^ * uncle,' in Tahtar ^ is exactly so pro-
nounced, and with the same signification, in
Genoa. Again; mangia^ *to eat,' among the
Genoese^ is also mangia with the Tahtars ; savun,
^ soap,' is sabun in the Crimea ; fortunna^ a ' sea-
storm,' fortunh ; with many other examples

(1) TraTels, toI. II. p. 367.

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. g^^

where the affinity is less striking. The most
remarkable instance is, that barij signifying a
* cask/ or * barrel,* in Genoa, is pronomiced by
the Tahtars, haril ; bringing it very near to our
English name for the same thing. The Tahtars^
moreover, call a barber, herher ; and this they
may have derived from the Genoese word
barbS^.

The unusual swarms of locusts which have
infested the Chimeaj of late years, has been
already noticed. They have destroyed all the
vineyards of the new settlers ; but the Tahtars
who cultivate the vine only for the pleasure of
eating its firuit, disregard their coming, although
it proves so mournful a scourge to the natives
of other countries having establishments upon
the coast. Soon after leaving Derykeiiy^ we ^^^^^

ft \JT0tM

arrived at the ruins of an old monastery, Monas-

tery*

(2) The llu:t is, that both the JEnglUh language and the lan-
ginage introduced by Genoese Colonies into the Crimea were deriTod
Brom the same source, the old Oemunu It came into England
A. D. 440. It was carried hito Italy by the Hendi, West Oothe,
VandaU, and Lombards, whence it found its way eyen to the
OrimeOj by means of Genoese colonists. (See Cambden's Remains,
Land. 1667.) Busbequius examined a Tahtar who arrived at Corutan-
tmopU fjrom the Crimea, and he discovered that the inhabitants of
that country had many words in their lang^uage which were common
to the FUndngs; as broe, bread; hus, house; bruder, brother;
HMr, silver; salt, salt; sune, the sun; apel, an apple; kommen, to
come ; smghen, to sing, dec. They also numbered in the following
manner : Ita, tua, iria,/yder,fyf^, sets, sevens, jrc

IV.

£^g SOUTH COAST OP THE CRIVBA.

CHAP, delightfiilly situate upon the side of mountains
sloping towards the sea, with a rapid rivulet d
the purest crystal water flowing close to its
walls. All that now remains of the original
building is a small chapel, containing images of
the Saints, painted upon stucco, although nearly
effaced. Here the author's unfortunate friend
and his predecessor in this journey, the late
Mr. John TweddelU of Trinity College^ Om-
bridge\ had left the tributary offering of his
Athenian Muse to the Genius of the place, in
some Greek verses which he had written with a
pencil upon a wall^ and subscribed with his
name. Mr. Reginald Heher^ in a subsecpMxit
visit, struck by the grandeur of the situatim,
delineated a view of the place\ Among the trees,
at t^e time we arrived, were the pomegranate
in full bloom, the spreading mulberry ^ the wUd
vinCy creeping over ooJb, mapUsy and cameliutti
cherry-trees^ and principally the tall hhick poplar,
everywhere towering among rocks, above all the
shrubs, and adding considerably to the dignity
and the graceful elegance of this fine scene'.

(1) Now burled in the Temple of Theiem at Atheiu.

(2) See elM the Note to IK S53.

(3) ** The forests in this trect are not of a Tery loltf growth: ilif,
however, and some oaks, are found, and magnificent walnot-trees.
The Tahtars in the sprhig, when the sap is rising, pieree the walaiit-
trees, and put in a spigot for some time. When this Is witfadrawo,

a deer

SOUTH COAST OF THB CRIHEA. 257

The tertian fever, caught among the caverns chap.
of Inkertnan, had rendered the author so weak
after leaving this heautiful spot, that it was
with the greatest difficulty he could sit upon
his horse. One of its violent paroxysms coming
on afterwards at Yourzuf^ he remained for
some time extended upon the hare earth, in the
principal street in the village. Its peaceful and
hospitahle inhahitants regarded him as a victim
of the plague, and of course, were prevented
from offering the succour they would otherwise
gladly have hestowed. His companions were
fiur advanced upon the journey; for they be-
lieved him to be employed collecting plants.
When, towards evening, they returned in search
of him, the interpreter persuaded an old woman
to allow him a hovel for the night's accommoda-
tion ; and having also begged a small piece of
opium in the village, he was soon rendered in-
sensible of the wretchedness of his situation.

Being unable to continue his journey on
horseback, a bargain was concluded the next

a clear sweet liquor flows out, which, when coagulated, they use as
sugar. In diffinent places we saw % few cypress-trees, growing in the
bnrial-groondi : they were pointed out to us as rarities, and brought
from Stambottl. On the plains above the sea-coast are some fine olive-
trees, Lombardy-poplars abound every-where, and are very beautiful."
H^tf'9 M8. Jmamal.

^g SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

CHAP, day with the master of a Turkish boat, laden
^^^v-^ with timber, and bound to Stidak^, for his passage
to Alusta. Mr. Cripps, with the rest of the party,
continued the tour of the coast as before.

Yourzufj called Yourzwa by the Russians,
is the Gorzubitai of Procopms. The fortress,
built by Justinian^ still remains, although in
ruins, upon the high rocks aboye the beautiful
little bay of the town. As soon as the vessel
Ai'vDAOH had cleared the bay of Yourzuf. an immense

Promon- •^ •*

tory. promontory appeared towards the east: this it
was necessary to double } and, haying done so^
we discerned the whole coast eastward as 6r
as Sudalf : our mariners pointed to the place,
as then within yiew, although barely visible.
The lofty promontory we had passed is called
by the Tahtars, AiVdagh or Holy Mountain*.
Mr. Cripps's route along the shore led him
directly over it : he observed upon the summit
the remains of an antient monastery : this may

(1) See the extnurt from Mr. Beber^$ MS. Journal, in p. 1S7 of thii
volume.

(2) The original name of this place seems presenred in the Periphu
of Seylax CaryandeniiSf in the word KYAAIA. Vid. p. 71. ed. Oronov.
L. Bat. 1007. Vossios reads KTTAIA.

(3) Mr. Heber, In Note (5), affords a different interpretation to this
name. The author is induced to consider the epithet A I, AIA, or
AION, as used to denote sanctity. Hence the appellation Al- or AGIA-
ByRVN ; as, among the Modem Greeks, AnON-OPOS Is a name
given to Mount Atkot,

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. qSQ

have stood upon the site of one .of those tern- chap
pies formerfy dedicated to the Taurican Diana ; v^v^
as the village, to which he descended imme-
diately afterwards, still retains, in the name
jRartejuzAf or Parthenitj an evident etymology of Partkenit,
Parthenium, a few years ago, four columns,
two of green and two others of white marble,
were found lying upon the site of that monastery,
and among its ruins*. Prince Potemkin re-
moved two of them, to decorate a church then
building in or near Ckerson. When Mr. Oripps
arrived, he found only one column remaining, of
wkUe marble^ near twelve feet in length, and
eighteen inches in diameter. Stretching out
somewhat farther from the shore, we obtained
a fine view, east and west, of the whole coast
of the Crimea^ from the Criu-metopon to SudaL
Mr. Crippst being then upon the heights, en-
joyed a prospect still more extensive, and beheld
our little bark, like a speck upon the waves.
He halted during the heat of the day, according
to the custom usually observed among the
Tahtars in travelling, at a place called Lambat^
the Lanipas^ of the Antients ; and in the evening,

(4) The monastery was dedicated to St. ConBtantine and St. Helen,
See PalUu^g TraoeU, vol, II. p. 179.

(5) '* LamtMit is situate amidst some of the grandest scenery in
the Crimea ; having Chatyr Dag on the right, and in front a beautiful
promontory called Ayoudagh, or Bear Hill : this is connected with the

VOL. II. S "^"K^

ggQ SOUTH COAST OF THB CRIMEA.

CHAP, a little before sun-set, he arrived at AlustOj as

VI.

our boatmen were anchoring near the shore.

Tehetir- From this place we had a fine view of the

dagh, or *^

Mons Tra- mountain called Tchetirdagh^ the Trapbzus of
Straboj whose lofty summit appeared above a
range of clouds, veiling all the lower part Its
perpendicular height does not exceed thirte^
hundred feet^ ; but it rises so rapidly from the
coast about Altistay that its seeming elevation is
much greater. Almost the whole of the Crimm
may be seen from its summit in clear weather.
The Tahtars affirm, that a great portion of the
stapes beyond the Isthmus of Perecap maybe

range of Chatyr Dag, by a rocky isthmos, covered with wood, and is
itself peninsular; resembling, though on a grander acale, Orme^
Head in Caernaryonshire. At the foot of the isthmus, in a beaotiAil
wood of walnut-trees, stands Partenak, a Tillage with a good hartwor
for small vessels, formed by a high rocky island. Here we found an old
Tahtar, who was in g^at practice as a boat-builder, and had, with bb
own hands, and the assistance of his two sons, just finished a beaatilU
schooner of thirty tons, for a merchant at Caffa. The usual vcsseU of
the country are like the Turkish, with lateen sails, and high prows and
poops, very much curved. I was so much struck with Ayoudagh, Aat
I could not help fancying that it was the CrUt'tnetopon of Strabo. A
steep and narrow path leads over the neck of the mountain fioo
Partenak. From the summit we saw, as we fancied, and as tlie
Tahtars assured us, the whole way from Kutchuk-koi to the Bosphoros.
The people of Lambat complained that they were not allowed to cot
down nor sell their timber. I never could learn the reason of this
restriction. In the neighbourhood of Aktiar not even a shrub had
been left for miles.'* Heber't MS, JoumcU,

(1) Pallat states it as about 1300. See TraneUy voi, II. p. 103.

SOUTH COAST OP THE CRIMEA. ggj

discerned from this mountaiii. There is cer- chap.
tainlj nothing to intercept the view, as far as
human sight can possibly extend ; because the
whole district to the north is as flat as the rest
df the great eastern plain. The village of
AhutcLj once a place of considerable importance,
)till exhibits some vestiges of its ancient dig-
nity. The ruins of the citadel — erected, toge-
ther with the fortress of Yourzuf^ by Justinian^
Gbocording to Procopius — are still seen upon pre-
cipices contiguous to the sea*. Three of its
towers remain, and a stone wall, twelve feet in
height, and near seven feet in thickness. At pre-
sent, the place consists only of a few Tahtar huts :
in one of these we passed the night ; having
observed nothing remarkable, excepting a very
small breed of bufPaloes ; the females being
little larger than our market calves.

At Altista we terminated our journey along the
coast; and on Friday morning, August tfie eight hy
we set out, by a route across the Tchetirdagh, for
Akmetchet. We rode for some time in the Dale
ot Ahutdt a delightful valley, full of apple, pear,
plum, and pomegranate trees, with vineyards

(9) *' Somewhere between Sudak and Lambat (LanqKu) is a rock,
belieredy from its fiincied resemblance to a sbip, to bore been a yessd
which, with its crew, was turned into stone." Heber't MS, Journal.

S 2

VI.

262 SOUTH COAST OP THE CRIMRA.

c^^ P- and olive grounds ; and, beginning to ascend the
mountain, arrived at the village of Shuma. Here
the Tahtars brought for our breakfast the enor-
mous kind of cucumber which was before men-
tioned : the seed of it, since brought to England,
has not thrived in our country. The fruit is as
white as snow, and, notwithstanding the pro-
digious size and length it attains, has all the
crispness and fresh flavour peculiar to a young
cucumber. It would become a valuable plant
for the poor, if it were possible to naturalize it
in other parts of Europe. This, and other va-
rieties of the same vegetable, together with
many difierent kinds of melonsy and the Cucurbita
pepOi or pumpkin^ cover the borders of a Tahtar
garden. The custom of boiling, for their meals,
the tendrils and young fruit of the pumpkin^
is common not only in the Crimea^ but over all
the Turkish empire. We were often treated with
this vegetable, and found it very palatable.

The weak state of the author's health would
not allow him to ascend the summit of the
Tchetirdagh ; but Mr. Cripps left him at Shunuif
for that purpose. The common road conducted
him along the western side of the mountain, and,
after all, at no great distance from its summit;
as his companion, having gained the highest
point, called to him, and was distinctly heard.

VI.

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. C^SS

Mr. Cripps coUected some rare plants^ ; and con- chap.
firmed, by his actual observation, what has been
before related concerning the mountains of the
Crimea ; that they skirt only the southern coast
of the Peninsulay beginning at Caffhy and ex-
tending as £eu* as Balaclava. The town otAkmet-
diet appeared to Mr. Cripps^ from the summit of
the mountain, as if it were immediately beneath
his view : towards the north, the whole territory
exhibited an uninterrupted plain. On the west,
the chain of mountains seemed to terminate at
Baktcheserai ; so that a geographical line may be
traced for a map of the Criviea^ from Caffa to
Stara Crim ; thence, south of Karasubazavy on
to Akmetchety and to Baktcheserai. To the north
of this line, the whole territory, not only of the
Orimeoy but beyond the Isthmus, over all the
Ukraincy is one vast campaign, consisting of a
calcareous deposit, containing the remains of
marine animals. All the higher parts of the
Tchetirdagh exhibit a mass of limestone, very
compact, and of a grey colour. Pallas says,
that upon friction, it is slightly fetid ; a character
that we neglected to notice. The mountain
probably received its antient name of Trapezus
from the table-form of its summit. Its lower
district is covered by groves, which are impene-

(1) See the Appendix, No. IV.

VI.

254 SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA.

CHAP, trable to the rays of the sun. The only blossom
seen decking the soil was the Colchicum Autum-
nahy or Common Meadow-saffron* Through these
groves the author continued to skirt the whole
of its western side, until he came out upon a spa-
cious table of naked limestone towards the north j
beneath a frightful precipice of the same nature,
upon whose summit he could plainly discern his
companion with the guides. He was however
sufficiently elevated to look down, from this spot,
upon the summits of almost all the neighbouring
mountains which appeared below hiin, covered
with wood. In the fertile valleys between these
mountains, were com and pasture lands. So
fertile are those valleys, that single ears of wild
barley, and wild rye, are seen growing in many
situations. After two hours of continual descent
from this spot, he arrived at the village of Day-
keiiy. Hither Professor Pallas had sent his
carriage, in order to conduct the party onoe
more to his comfortable and most hospitable
mansion in Akmetchet

Aftihinoud
Sultan.

About two miles from Derykeiiy^ a Turkish
nobleman, at a village called Makmoud Sultofh
sent to request that we would visit his house
upon the banks of the Salgir. fie came out to
meet us, attended by his dragoman and other
menials, as Turks always are, and invited us to

VI.

SOUTH COAST OP THE CRIMEA. 265

return with him, and drink coffee. Every thing ^^^^•
around his dwelling, placed in the midst of
gardens, had an air of peace and repose. A
marten had built its nest within his chamber;
and he had made holes in the window, for this
bird to passi in search of food for its young.
This practice is not uncommon in the cottages
of the Tahtars^ who regard a visit from the
marten as a favourable omen. The same super-
stition may also be observed in different parts
of Turk&jf ; and its prevalence among the lower
order of people in England is well known'.
Upon the tombs both of Turks and Armenians
are often seen two little cavities, scooped in the
stone by the relations of the deceased, and, by
them, continually supplied with water; consi-
dering it a good omen for the souls of deceased
persons, that birds should come and drink upon
their graves. Such Armenian tomb-stones,
beautifidly wrought in white marble^ and covered
with inscriptions, may now be considered ahnost
as antiquities of the Crimea. They bear very

(I) " This guest of summer,

The temple^haunting martlet, docs approve,

By his lot^d mandonry, that the heaven's breath

Smells wooiogly here : no jutty, frieze, buttress,

Nor coigne of vantage, buttliis bird hath made

His pendent bed, oiid procreant cradle. \thcr(' thcy

Most breed and haunt, I haveobscrvM, the uir

Is delicate." Shakesjyearey Macb. A. i.lS. (».

ciQ4, ^^^rt^BCRIMBA.

CHAP, tra' "* /ijti' others seen in Turkey ,

VI. .W

^ A/*'^' ""k*"^ symbols, the former

' it' ' < ^* J those whose memorials thev

^'-^ ^'.jjpMf^'" . /br a money-changer^ they exhibit,

-«t«'*'' ^ /Ao sort of shovel used by bankers ;

iii^ -Lff, a. pair of shears ; or for a gardener ^

jj/£. arrived at Ahvietchet as Professor Pallas
^^' ^^ preparing to celebrate the marriage of his
j^u^hter, according to the rites of the Greek
Church, with Baron Wimfeld^ an Htmgarmn
General in the Russian service. The wedding
took place on the following day, Saturday^
ftarriMg^ Atufust the niuth^ after a superb dinner. We
^v^ony accompanied the parties to church. At the
a^rch' door they were met by the priest. The General
was asked, whether he were already related to
the lady by any tie of blood: upon his an-
swering in the negative, a similar question was
put to the intended bride, and by her also
answered in the same way. They were then
asked, whether the engagement were voluntar)'
on their part ; and having replied in the affir-
mative, they entered a few paces within the
church. A Bible and a crucifix were then placed
before them, and large lighted wax-tapers,
decorated with riblx)ns, in their hands. After
certain i)rayers had l>eeii road, and the ring

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. 267

had been placed upon the bride's finger, the
floor was covered by a piece of scarlet satin,
and a table was placed before them, with the
communion vessels. The priest having bound
their hands together with ribbons of the same
coloured satin, and placed chaplets of flowers
upon their heads, administered the Sacrament :
afterwards he led them, thus united, three
times around the communion-table, followed by
the bride's father and the bride-maid. During
this ceremony the choristers chaunted a hymn.
After the hymn was concluded, the parties
returned to the house of the bride's father:
here tea, and other refreshments, were served
to all who came to congratulate the married
couple.

We remained a month at Akmetchet after
our return from the south of the Crimea ; and,
during this time, had an opportunity of wit-
nessing another ceremony much more remark-
able. It was at the marriage of a Jew^ which
took place in the following singular manner.

For two or three days prior to the wedding, jeteuh
all the neighbours and friends of the betrothed "^*

couple assembled together, to testify their joy
by the most tumultuous rioting, dancing, and
feasting. On the day of marriage, the intended

368

CHAP.
VI.

SOUTH COAST OP THE CRIMEA.

bride, a(X5ompamed by th6 priest and by her
own relations, was ledy^ blindfolded, to the river
Salgivj flowing at the bottom of a small valley
in the firwit of Professor Pallas' s house : here
she was undressed by women who were stark-
naked ; and being destitute of any other covering
than the handkerchief by which her eyes were
concealed, she was plunged three times in the
river. After this, being again clothed, she was
conducted, blindfolded as before, to the house
of her parents, accompanied by all her friends,
who were singing, dancing, and performing
music, before her. In the evening, the bridegroom
was brought to her ; but, as long as the feast
continued, she remained with, her eyes bound.

The garrison of Akmetchet paraded every
morning, from seVen o'clock until ten; but
troops in a worse state of discipline, or more
unfit for service, were perhaps never seen.
Military The wholc military force of the Crimea then
xh^CHinea amouutcd to fifteen thousand men : of this
number, fiifteen hundred were in garrison at
Akmetchet. There were seven complete regi-
ments in the Peninsuloy besides two companies
of invalids, and a Greek battalion at Balaclava.
At Perecop there was a garrison of invalids ;
and garrisons were also established at Yenikale,
Kertchtfj Cajfa^ Karasubazar, AkmetchetyBaktche-

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIlfBA.

sercdy Kosiof^ and Aktiar ; where there were two
regiments. Notwithstanding the routed rigour
of the Sovereign, his attention to the minutisB of
discipline, and his passion for military pursuits,
a degree of negligence and of stupidity chdCI^
terized all puUic affairs; so that the boasted
strength of the Jtuman empire, during the
reign of Paul, could only excite ridicule. Such
was the disposition of the guard along the coa3t,
and such the nature of the country, that an army
might hare been landed, and marched up to
the sentinels at Akmetchetf before they were
observed. Detested as the Russiana were by
every inhabitant of the Chimea, their expulsion
from the Penin^mUh if it had pleaded Chreat
Britain to restore it to the Turks^ would have
been a worl; of ease and amusemoqt The
harbour of NympJuBum was entirely open ; wA
it was unguarded, both by sea and land^ To
the west, at SudoA, AlustOf or Yaurzuf, invaders
would, have found the Tahtars greeting their
arrival with tears of joy. A small band of
Marean Greeks, upon the coast,, were iieady
either to join the invaders, or to fly at their
approfu^h^ In the garrisoned towns, a ^

(1) Though some yean have elapsed since this Journal was written,
the chaugct which have taken place in Russia rather tend to facilitate,
than to obatruct, the capture of the Crimea.

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMBA.

CHAP, snoring soldiers, hardly out of drill, or a party
^.^.v^ of bloated officers, labouring under indigestion
and ague, would not have offered even the
semblance of an opposition. Any experienced
General, belonging to the armies of England^
of FrancBj or of Germanyj might then have
pledged his reputation for the capture of the
Crimea with a thousand men^ Such an event,
throughout the Peninsula^ would have been cele-
brated as a signal delivery from the worst of
tyrants ; and every honest individual would
have participated in the transports of an injured
people thus honourably emancipated.

swjorof. TYns account may not seem to accord with
the descriptions published concerning the con-
duct of the Russian troops in Italy ^ under Field-
marshal Suvorof. But where will JRussia find
another Suvorof? He was created to be a
Russian General; possessing all the qualifica-
tions, and the only qualifications entitling a
Russian chieftain to the hope of victory. Among
his troops, he was generally their commander ;
individually J their comrade and their friend. To
the highest military rank in Russia, he joined

(1) We had the satisfiictioii to bring to England a Surrey of the
ports of AkiiaTf with all the aoundiiigs : it i» engraved for this Work

SOUTH COAST OF THE CRIMEA. 271

• the manners and the taste of a private soldier ; ^y^^*
one moment closeted with his Sovereign; the
next, drinking qvxiss with his troops, eating raw
turnips, divesting himself of vermin, or sleeping
upon straw. He partook every interest of the
privates ; entered into all their little histories ;
mediated in their disputes; shared in their
amusements ; was at once their counsellor and
their example ; the hero who taught and led
the way to victory. The Catechism (as they
strangely termed that extraordinary document
which was composed hy him for the instruction
of every soldier in the army) will shew more of
his real character than the most studied descrip-
tion : it possesses a portion of all his characte-
ristics ; of his buffoonery ; his inconsistency ;
his barbarity ; his military skill ; his knowledge
of the disposition of his countrymen; his
anxiety and precaution for the welfare of his
troops ; as well as of his remarkable talent for
directing even their vices to advantage : in a
word, it offers a key to those counsels which
guided all his military operations. This singular
document fell into our hands: it was sent by
order of the Crown, while we remained in the
country, to every regiment in the Russian service ;
to the end that each soldier might learn to repeat
it from memory ; and it is presented to the

2»7g SOUTH COAST OF THE CKIMBA.

c^p. Ewglish Reader in the Appendix ^^ as literally
translated, from the original Ittissianj as the
different idioms of the two languages will
admit.

. , . . • ■ • ■ ■•■

(1) See the Appendix, No. I.

THE BVXIKB

Ibclaifd by ttt
A n«k of Und,

, lh< Sail lAku

VMM at SeaSla

biiUiUii(,it>*aRkcd dnr nd
wiUb DfwyclL ut Bill nillR,
. SmilltrSdlldHiiitmoMdry.

two dlHlDCl U. RDlnsCrom Uk mil ■!

CHAP. VII.

EXCnRSION TO THB MINOR PENIH8DLA OP THE
HERACLBOTf.

w Pallas accompanies the Author — Man-
—Rmwofthe Fortress — Cape oftheWinds
Mil — Fuller' s-earth Pits — Mam^acture

274 SECOND EXCURSION TO THE

of Keff'kd— Isthmian Wall — Aia Bur An—
Coins of Vladimir — Alexiano^s Chovier — Point
and bay of Phanari — Ruins of the old Cher-
soncsus of Strabo — Valley of Tchorgona—
Danger of the Climate — Tahtar Nobles — Rus-
sian i?ecrw27— Salvia Hablitziana — Return to
Akmetchet.

^viL ^^ ^^ ^^ ^^* ^^^ *^^® ^ ascertain the situ-
'i^^"^ ation of the most antient of the two cities of
the Chersonesiansj described by Strabo as in ruins
within the Heracleotic Peninsula^ and as Pro-
fessor Pallas maintained that it must have stood
upon, or near to, the point of land fomoDg
the most western territory of the OrtmeOf now
called Point Phanari^ we determined to makie a
second excursion, and to traverse the Minor
Professor Peninsula in every direction. The Professor
compaDies himsclf rcsolvcd to accompany us : accordingly,
we left Akmetchet \ in a light, open carriage
belonging to him, on Saturday^ September the
seventh. Passing through a deep ravine, we
collected several specimens of the Salvia Hor
blitziana^ and the Centauina myriocephala : the
latter, a favourite food of the Crimean sheep^
is supposed to give a beautifiil grey cobor

(1) '' Akmetchet, or White Moique, now Simpheropoif altboogfa the
scat of Goyemment, is a wretched and minons place, finroieriy aln-
sive ; as appears from its three mosques, which stand at a oonidenUe
distance from each other. There is here a good view of the
tain Chatyr Dag." Heber's MS. Journal.

HBaAOLBOnC lOHOR PBNIHSULA. 275

die wool of the lambs, which is so highly chap.
ized both in Turkey and in Tahtary^ as aa
tiament of the calpacif or cap, worn by
iktar gentlemen, instead of the turban#
le Professor instructed us to search for the
rest plants, in deep sands, in salt marshes,
d upon chalky hills. We purposely avoided
tering again the town of Baktcheseraii that
I might not encounter the interruption of
remonial visits; and changed our horses at
itcha. Soon after leaving this last place, we
med towards the southern chain of moun-
ns, and passed Kara Ilaes^ the most pleasing
lage of the Crimea^ beautifully situate id
) entrance of a romantic defile, leading to
i&Uk. Upon the right hand, soon after
tering this defile, and upon the summits of the
(h mountains forming its southern side, are
n the remains of the antient fortress of
\herkesskerfnant once possessed by the GtmesCf
1 in remoter periods by the Tcherkesf^

SB we write, Circassians. When the former
de themselves masters of all the strong-
Ids in the Crimea^ they erected fortresses
on the most precipitous and inaccessi-
\ places, in the wildest retreats of the
utimf/a. Tcherkesskerman was one of the
adels thus constructed ; and the scattered
ins of its battlements yet cover the heights

VOL. II. T

276

CHAP;
VII.

SECOND EXCURSION TO THE

here mentioned. Its remains are less remark^
able than those of Mankoopj upon the other
side of the defile ; on this account we preferred
making a visit to the latter : turning off, there-
fore, to a village upon the left hand, we were
provided with beautiftil Tahtar horses and
guides for the undertaking.

Mankoop. The citadel of Mankoop is of very extraor*.
dinary magnitude ; and it may be truly described
as being in the clouds. It covers the summit
of a semicircular insulated mountain, whichj
owing to its frightful aspect, its altitude, and
its craggy perpendicular sides, independently (rf
every other consideration than as a surprising
work of nature, fills the mind with wonder, upon
entering the defile. In this singular situation
where there were no visible means of ascent
towards any of the heights, much less of con-
veying materials for the astonishing wor]^ they
completed, did the Greeks qonstruct a citadel \
without a parallel in JEurope, the result of their
wealth, address, and enterprise. History does

►

(1) Some curious memorials of this remarkable citadel (Mankoop)
are found in Bronioviut, who describes it as, '^ Arxtt doUas quondam
aniiquiitima.** He also says, *' Manoopia ciyitas ad montes et ^Ifai
magis porrecta, et mari non Jam propinqua est ; arces duas in wJUih
simo saxo et perampio cooditas, templa Grteca sumptnosa et ndei^ Ieo*

habuit Ac in eo monte saxoso, in quo sita est, in saxo wbo

admodon

HSRAGLBOnC MINOR PENINSULA. 277

mention for what purpose these works ^^^j^-
e carried on in the interior of the country,
such a distance from the coast; hut it is
aral to conjecture their use, in curhing the
die spirit of the natives towards the mari-
3 colonial possessions. The next possessors
Mankoop were the Genoese; afterwards, it
mged to a colony of Jews. Ruined tomhs of
*ble and stone were lying in the cemetery of

Jewish colony, beneath the trees which
passed in our ascent The whole of our
lage up the mountain was steep and diffi-
;; nor was it rendered more practicable by
amazing labours of its original possessors,
lee dilapidated works now rather impeded
a fisKdlitated our progress. The ascent had
a been paved the whole way, and sturs
e formed, like those of the Merdveen^ de-
bed in the last Chapter ; these still remain
ore in many places.

¥hen we reached the summit, we found it ^{o««

. the For

iiely covered with ruins of the citadel, tre«.

idm opere domns ezdsas habet, qua etsi IDe locoi none tyWotiM
lalignB tamen plnriauB reperiimtiir. Phanam mannoreif «t
■tiaii flohmmii ornatom faami Jam proitratom et eomptaniy
Mm at daium quondam earn locum extitiBse tettatnr.*'
Ear.fip. SOSy 964.

t 2

gf^g SECOND BZCUBSION TO TRB

CHAP. Caverns and gloomy passages hewn in the
solid rock, whose origmal nses are now un-
known, presented on every side their dark
mouths* Upon the most elevated part of this ex-
traordinary eminence there is a heautiful plain,
covered with a fine turf: here we found Uie
Itosa PignuBa of Pallas^ hlooming in great
heauty. This plain, partly fenced by the mould-
ering wall of the fortress, but otherwise open
to the surrounding precipices, appeared to
be as lofty as the summit of the difb upon
the Sussex coast, near Beachy Head. All
the other mountains, valleys^ hills, woods, and
villages, may be discerned from this spot
While with dismay and caution we crept upon
our hands and knees to look over the brink
of these fearful heights, a hal£<;lad Tahtafi
wild as the winds of the north, mounted upon
a colt equally unsubdued, without any saddle
or bridle, except the twisted stem of a wild
vine, galloped to the very edge of the pre-
cipice, and there, as his horse stood prancing
upon the borders of eternity, amused himsdf
in pointing out to us the different places, in
the vast district which the eye commanded.
We entered into one of the excavated cham-
bers \ a small square apartment, leading to
another upon our right hand. Upon our left,
a narrow passage conducted us to an open

HBRACLBOTIC MINOR P£NIN8ULA. 4^9

balcony, fonned in the rock, upon the very chap.
hce of one of the principal precipices, whence ^^vv
the depth below might be contemplated with
less danger. Vultures far beneath were sailing
over the yalleys, not seeming to be larger than
swallows. Below these appeared the tops
of undulating hills, covered by tufted woods,
with villages amidst rocks and defiles, but at
a depth so intunidating, that our blood became
chilled in beholding them. We afterwards found
the remains of churches, and of other public
buildings, among the ruins; and these were
more perfectly preserved than might have been
expected in the BiLssian empire : but the cause
is explained, in the difficulty of their access. At
kngth, being conducted to the north-eastern
point of a crescent (which is the natural form
of the summit whereon the citadel of Mankoap
was constructed), and descending a few stone
steps neatly hewn in the rock, we entered, by
a square door, into a cavern, called, by the
Tahtars^ The Cape of the Winds. It has Capeo/the
been hewn, like the rest, out of the solid stone ;
but it is open on four sides. Judging from the
amazing prospect which is here presented of all
the surrounding country, this cavern probably
served as a place of military observation. The
apertures, or windows, are large arched chasms
in the rock: through these a most extensive

vn.

ggO SECOND EXCURSION TO THE

CHAP, view, o^er distant mountains and rolling clouds,
forms a sublime spectacle. There is nothing,
in any part of Europe^ which can surpass the
tremendous grandeur of the scenery. Below
this cavern there is another chamber, leading to
some other cells on its several sides : these have
all been hewn in the same entire rock.

We pursued a different road in our descent
from this place ; passing beneath an old arched
gateway of the citadel, once its principal eir
trance\ This road flanks the northern side of
the mountain : and the fall into the valley is so
bold and profound, that it seems as if a single
false step would precipitate both horse and
rider. By alighting, the danjger is avoided ; and
the terror of the descent compensated, in tbe
noblest prospect the eye ever beheld. It wm
dark before we reached the bottom. We had
some difficulty to regain the principal road lead-
ing through the defile ; owing principally to
trees projecting over all the lanes in the vicinity
of Tahtar villages, and so effectually obstructing
the passage of persons on horseback, that

(1) Fatare trayelleTS, who may visit Mankoopt are adrised to ehoOR
this road for their ascent ; as it will affbrd them the tohlimest rksm
perhaps ever heheld. The Tahtars, for what reason cannot be ezpkinad,
cull it The Carriage-way f although wc were unable to sit even upon cor
horses, in going down.

HBRACLSOTIC MINOR PENINSULA. <ggl

we were in continual danger of being thrown. ^^^^'
One of our party nearly lost an eye by a blow
he received from a bough stretching entirely
over the path we pursued. The defile itself is
not without danger, in certain seasons of the year.
Immense masses of limestone detach themselves
from the rocks above, carrying all before them
in their passage : some, from the northern pre-
cipices, had crossed the river at the bottom,
and, by ^the prodigious velocity acquired in
their descent, had roUed nearly half way up the
opposite side. We noticed some of these frag-
ments in our way to Sh&lu, where we passed Shm.
the night This village belongs to Professor
PallaSf and consists of a forest of walnut-trees,
beneath which every dwelling is concealed.
One of those trees yields to him, as he informed
08 upon the spot, sixty thousand walnuts in a
single season. The ordinary price of the fruit,
throughout the rimech is from eighty to a hun-
dred copeeks for a thousand. The Professor
had built for himseif a very magnificent seat at
SMUi ; but owing to disputes with the Tahtars^
conceming the extent of his little territory, the
completion of the work had been delayed, when
we arrived. The building is placed upon the
northern side of the defile, commanding a fine
prospect of the valley; but, from the chalky
nature of the soil in the surrounding hills, every

23^ SECOND EXCUB8I0N TO THB

CHAP, thing bad a white glare, peinfal to llie eye, and
v,^grvv^ whoUy destructive of all picturesque appear*
ance. Near to this hill, upon one of the emi-
nences opposite to the Professor's house, is a
series of excavations similar to those of Inker-
man ; exhibiting the antient retreats of Chri$tiaM$
in cells and grottoes. One of these cavemous
chambers is not less than eighty paces in length,
with a proportionate breadth, and its roof is
supported by pillars hewn in the rock : the
stone, from the softness of its nature, did not
demand the labour which has been requisite in
similar works situate in other parts of {he
Oritnea*

SSTpite. From SMlii we proceeded once more to Bokr
clava. In our road we passed several pits, in
which the Tahtars dig that kind of fuller's day
called Keff'kil\ or * mineral froth ;' and, by the
Germans^ meerschaum. This substance, before
the capture of the Crimea, was a considerable
article of commerce with ConstantinopUf where
it is used in the public baths, to cleanse the
hair of the women. It is often sold to German
merchants for the manufacture of those beautifal

(1) Literally foam-earth ; bat often erroncGasly suppofed to derive
ito name from the town of Caffa, whence this Mineral was exported to
TuRKBT. See the obtervatUms in Chap. IV. of this Volume, p. 163.

HBIUCIJEOnC MINOR PEN INSULA. 2S3

tobacco-pipes that are called icume de mer by the ^y^^'
French^ and which sell for enormous prices, ^-^^v^^
even in our own country, after they have been
long used, and thereby stained by the oil of
tobacco. The process necessary to the perfec-
tion of one of these pipes, with all its attendant
eircumstances, is really a curious subject.
Since the interruption of commerce between
the Crimea and Turkey , the clay requisite in
their manu&u^ture has been du^r near Eski Shekhrt ManufSMs-
in Anatolia*. The first rude form is given to K^-kU.
the pipes upon the spot where the material is
found : here they are pressed withm a mould,
and laid in the sun to harden : afterwards, they
are baked in an oven, boiled in milk, and rubbed
with soft leather. In this state they are sent to
Canstantinople^ where there is a peculiar bazar,
or rather a khan^^ in which they are exposed for
sale : they are then bought up by merchants,
and conveyed^ by caravans, to Pest in Hungary.
Still the form of the pipe is large and rude.
At Pest, a manufacture begins, which is to
prepare them for the German markets. They
are there soaked for twenty-four hours in water,
and then turned by a lathe. In this process.

(8) The tale of it sapporto a monastery of Dervi$he». It conaists of
dUx, water, moffneiia, and earhonie aeicL
(3) Tbe place la called Ouzoun Tcharchy, in the FiUfjica^i Khan.

VII.

284 6BC0ND EXCURSION TO THB

CHAP, many of tbem, proving porous, are rejected.
Sometimes, only two or three, out of ten, are
deemed worthy of further labour. From Pest
they are conveyed to Vienna^ and frequently
mounted in silver. After this, they are carried
to the fairs of LeipsiCf Francfort, ManheitHf and
to other towns upon the Rhine ; where the
best sell from three to five, and even seven,
pounds sterling each. When the oil of tobacco^
after long smoking, has given to these pipes a
fine porcelain yellow, or, which is most prized,
a dark tortoiseshell hue, they have been known
to sell for forty or fifty pounds, of our money.
Their manner of digging keff-AU in the Crimea
is this : they open a shaft in the ground, and
continue to work in it until the sides begin to
fall in : this soon happens, from the nature of
the soil i when they open a new pit. A stratum
of marl generally covers the keff-kil : through this
they have to dig, sometimes to the depth of
from eight to twelve fathoms. The layer of
keffMl seldom ei^ceeds twenty-eight inches in
thickness, and the marl occurs beneath it as
before. At present, the annual exportation of
this mineral, from the whole Peninmla, does not
exceeds two tons, the consumption of it in .the
Crimea is inconsiderable, although it be sold, in
all the markets, at the low price of twenty
copeeks the poud.

Isthmian
Wall.

HERACLBOTIC MINOR PENINSULA. Qgg

At the distance of about two miles from Bala^ chap.

VII.

clava^ as we proceeded to that place, we disco-
vered the traces of an antient wall, extending
from the mountains eastward of the harbour
towards the west, and thus closing the approach
to Balaclava on the land side. As this wall
offered a due to the discovery of the other,
mentioned by Strabo, which extended across
the Isthmus, from the Ctenus to the Porttis Symho^
lorumj we determined to pursue it ; and we con-
tinued on horseback, guided by its remains ;
Professor Pallas choosing to follow more care-
fully on foot, with a mariner's compass in his
hand. Presently we encountered the identical
work we so much wished to find : it will serve
to throw considerable light upon the topography
of the Minor Peninsula. It meets the wall of
the Porttis Symhohrum at right angles, and
thence extends towards Inkerman, where it
joined the Ctenus. We traced it the whole way.
The distance between the two porta is very
erroneously stated, and it is exaggerated in all
our maps. It agrees precisely with Strabo's
admeasurement of forty stadia, or five miles, from
sea to sea. All that now remains of this wall,
is a bank or mound : upon this the marks and
vestiges of turrets are still visible. The stones
of which it consisted, have, for the most part,
been removed by the inhabitants : either to form

VII.

Hbi.

ggg SECOND EXCURSION TO THB

CHAP, inclosures for the shepherds, or to construct the
Tahtar dwellings. The parts which remain are
sufficient to prove the artificial nature of the
work } as the stones are not natural to the soil^
but foreign substances, evidently brought for the
purpose of fortifying the rampart. Having
determined the reality and the position of thb
wall, we resolved not to lose time in further
examination of the territory here ; but ascended
the steep mountains upon the coast towards
the west, to visit the stupendous cape, called, by

Aia B^ the Tahtar Si Ai a B vrvn, or the Holy Promontory^
lying between Balaclava and the Monastery of
St. Oeorge. The Parthbnium of Straho was
within the Heracleotic Chersonesus, as the plain
text of that author undoubtedly demonstrates:
and, if there be a spot well calculated for the
terrible rites said to have been celebrated in
honour of the Taurican Diana^ as well as for the
agreement of its position with the distance of
the Parthenium from the city of Chersonesus, it is
the Aia Bvrvn : indeed there is something in its
present appellation which coincides with the
antient sanctity of the Parthenian Promon-
tory. Pallas appears subsequently to have
admitted their identity^) but at the time of our
visit to this place, he was not decided in his

(1) See Paliat's Thivels, vo). II. p. 63.

VII.

HKRACLEOTIC MINOR PENINSULA. 387

opinion upon the subject. In fixing the position c^^^*
of objects, to which we have been guided solely
by the text of the Greek or the Roman historian,
in barbarous countries, there is always some
uncertainty ; but when barbarians themselves, by
their simple and uncouth traditions, confirm the
observations of the classic writer, and fix the
wavering feu^t, there seems little reason for
doubt. Upon this account, the Aia Bvrvn
has perhaps as good a title to be considered the
Parthenium of Strabc^, as the harbour of JBald'
clava his Portvs Symhohrum. At the same time
it must be confessed, that a similar epithet
occurs in the appellation Ai'vdagh, given to a
promontory mentioned in the preceding Chapter,
and probably, too, from some circumstances con-
nected with the antient worship to which Strabo
alludes ; because the word Parthenit is still
retained in the name of a contiguous village.
Hence it is evident that difierent promontories
of the TauridCf which antiently bore the name
of Partheniunh necessarily perplex an inquiry

(S) Tlie deeliioQ of diit point will be left for ftttore trarellen, who
may ta&e the pmins of meararing its exact distance from the rains of
the dty of the Chenaneriam, It has been here stated, merely from
eonjectore, to agree with Strabo*% accoont, who makes it equal to an
hundred ttadia^ or twelfe miles and a half. If the distance to the
AxA Btxyit should prove more than this, they will do well to direct
their attention, In the next instance, to that part of the coast men-
tioned In p. 815 of this Tolume, as having a natural arch.

288 SECOND EXCURSION TO THE

CHAP, tending to ascertain the exact position of any
v^i-v^ one in particular. In the language of the Taurij
who were the earliest votaries of the Diana of
the country, this goddess was called Orsilache ;
and perhaps in the Caticasian mountains,
whence the Tauri were derived, the significa-
tion of her most antient appellation might be
obtained. In the district of Caucasus, Pallas
discovered the interpretation of the word
Ardauda; which, in the dialect of the Tauri^
was a name of Theodosia; and he found it to
signify the Seven-fold Divinity ; answering to the
BnTAGEos of the anonymous Periplus of the
JEuxvn^.

AiaBMm. The AiA BvRVN has been by some authors
erroneously denominated the CriA^metopan. It
is a wild and fearful scene, such as Shakspeare
has described in Lear; a perpendicular and
tremendous precipice, one of the loftiest in the
Crimea ; consisting of a mountain of marble^
terminating abruptly in the sea. Towards the
west it borders upon a valley, where the village
of Karany is situate, now inhabited by Greeks.

After we had passed the Cape, and were within

(1) Nvv ik Xiytrai ^ OtovSo<rUi rf 'AXaviKy froi ry

Tavpucy ^laXirry *ApSaiia, rovriffriv EOTAOEOS.

Anonynd PeriphUf €d. Ortmov, p. 143. Lug. Bat.

VII.

HERACLEOTIC MINOR PENINSULA. £gQ

two versts of the Monastery of St. George, we chap.
fancied we had found the actual fane of the
dcemon virgin, descrihed by Strdbo as situate
upon the Parthenian Promontory. We came to
a ruined structure, with decisive marks of
remote antiquity : its materials, of the most
massive stone, were laid together without any
cement. Part of the pavement and walls were
still visible. From this spot our view of the
AiA BvRVN was taken; but the scale of the
representation did not allow the introduction of
the Ruin into the fore-ground*. The elevation
of the visible horizon towards the sea, which
has so singular an appearance in the Plate, is
not exaggerated^.

Soon afterwards, we arrived, for the second
time, at the Monastery of St. George : of this
place our firiend Pallas afterwards published an

(8) See the Quarto Edition.

(8) Onee, dcucending from the snmmit of Mount Vesuviua, (where a
■bnilar aoope of Tidoii ia preMnted,) as the atmosphere became more
tfian oaaallj clear, the author was to the highest degree astonished,
not being conadoas of his own elcTation, to behold the Islands of
VemioiiitM and Ponza actually appearing above the doads, and, as it
were, in the sky. Hsr above what seemed the line of the visible horizon.
Penons are now living who witnessed at the same time that remarkable
spectacle. He has since beheld similar phsenomena both in the Hebrides
and in the Archipelago ; but if such appearances were to be engraven,
they might be deemed unfkithful representations, by persons who have
never teen any thing of the same nature.

290

CHAP.
VII.

Coins of
Vladimir.

SECOND EXCURSION TO THB

engravixigy in the second volume of his ** Travels
through the Southern Provinces of the Russian
Empire.*' The anniversary, mentioned hy Bro-
niovitiSj is still celebrated here\ Some peasants
brought us a few copper coins of Vladimir the
Great. These are very interesting, because
they evidently refer to the aera of his baptism ;
an event which took place near the spot They
have in front a Sussian V, and for reverse a
crucifix; symbolical of his conversion to the
Christian religion. It has been already men-
tioned, that he was baptized in the Crimea;
and the ceremony took place, according to
Herberstein\ at the city of ChersonesuSf called
Cherson, or Corson^; a name easily now con-
founded with Cherson on the Dnieper; an
appellation bestowed by the Russians^ with
their usual ignorance of antient geography,
upon a modem town, near to the mouth of that

(1) " Est in eo loco nnde rivolos ille delabltar Pagns qoidftm noa
ignobilis, et non proctil in rip& maris, in monte saioso, Ormemm momuH
teriuniy SaneH OeorgH $olemne ; annlTennria devotio Onscii Cluistiaiiii^
qui none in Taarica sunt reliqoi, in magna fireqnentia iU fleri tolet.'*
Martini BnmiovH TartariOj Lug. Bat. 1690.

(3) Apod Pagi, tom. IV. p. 66.

(3) See the Addiiumai Notes at the end of this Volume, for a fci^
interesting document ooneeming Uiis once magnificent city, bf Mnh
nkmUu; an account nay little known, but preserring, perhaps the oolf
existing description of it. Braniavtui states, that Vladimir wwhttp'
tiled by the Oreek Patriarch, in the principal mamuterjf of the dtj of
Cher8one$us,

HERACLBOnC MINOR PENINSULA. ggj

river. About five versts from the monaatenfj chap.
following the coast, wo came to some extensive v^^v^w
ruins in a small wood, upon the right-hand side
of our road. In their present state, it is impos-
sible even to trace a plan of them : the Tahtar
shepherds, moving the stones to serve as the
materials of inclosure for their flocks, have
confused all that remains. Hence we continued
our journey towards the extreme south-western
point of the Crimea^ and arrived at a place
called Alexiano*8 Chouter, as it grew dark. The ^^^^*
barking of dogs announced the comfortable
assurance of human dwellings, and excited a
hope of some asylum for the night, after severe
&tigue. We found, however, that what we
supposed to be a village, consisted of four or
five wretched fishing-huts. A few Greeki quar-
tered there offered to lodge us all within a hole
recently dug in the earth, scarcely capable of con-
taining three persons, the smell of which place
we found to be abominable; it was, moreover,
filled with sheep-skins, swarming with vermin.
Having procured a little oil in a tin pan, we
made this serve us for a lamp ; and, searching
about, at last found a small thatched hovel, with
an earthen floor, and a place for kindling a fire.
Here, notwithstanding the extreme heat, we
burned some dried weeds, in order to counteract
the effects of miasmata from the marshes and

VOL. II. u

292 8BC0ND EXCURSION TO THE

CHAP, stagnant waters of the neighbourhood. By the
wv^^ light of our fire, a bed was prepared for
Professor Pallas, upon a sort of shelf : this, as it
supported only half his mattress, caused him
to glide off as often as he fell asleep, and at
last reconciled him to a quiet though more
revolting couch, upon the damp and dirty
floor. For ourselves, having procured two
long wooden benches, about eight inches
wide, we contrived to balance our bodies, in
a horizontal posture, between sleeping and
waking, until the morning. When day-light
appeared^ the Professor left us^ to examine
IS^of""^ '*« Poi^^ of Phamri, or the Light Tower ; and,
Phanari. returning before we were yet aroused from our
dozing, assured us that the whole of that neck
of land was covered with antient ruins* We
rose with great eagerness, to follow him ; and
as we approached the' water's edge, were im-
mediately struck by the appearance of a very
small peninsula, stretching into the Bay of
Phanarij entirely covered by the remains of an
antient fortress. The ground-plan of this struc-
ture has been published by the Professor, in his
own Work. It seemed to have been once an
island, connected with the main land by an
artificial mole, now constituting a small isthmus.
From this peninsula the shore rises, and all the
land towards its western extremity is elevated.

HBHACI.EOTIC MINOR PBMN9CLA.

993

Ascending this sloping eminence, as soon as we chap.
reached the summit, we found the walls, the v^v^
streets, the dilapidated buildings, and the other J"'"f/^
ruins of the old ChersonesusK The appearance of CkenKme-
oblong pavements, mouldering walls, scattered strabo.
fragments of terra cottar broken amphorse, tiles and
bricks, belonging to aqueducts, with other indi-
cations of an antient city, prevailed over the
whole territory, extending to the sea. The
Flan which is inserted as a Vignette to this
Chapter is very imperfect, but iT may better
convey a notion of the situation of those ruins
than any written description. We laboured
the whole day in tracing it, exposed to the rays
of a burning sun : the venerable Pallas, mean-
wlulet more active than either of us, toiled
incessantly; pacing all the distances, and
measuring, with his own hands, ever}- wall and
fimndation that remained. After ascertaining
the extent of those ruins the whole wav to the
Pamt of Phanari, we discovered, upon the
western side of the batf of that name, and close
to the water's edge, the remains of a building,
perhaps formerly a light-house. It may have
given the name of Phanari to the western point,
as well as to the bay. An arched entrance,
two of the walls, and a square opening for

(1) tSO If waXaiA Xtp^ovtitroQ Karitricafifiivti. Strab* lib. vii. 446.
M. OX9H»

u 2

294 VALLEY OF TCHOROONA.

CHAP, a window, of very massive and solid csonstruc-

VIL ^

tion» are yet visible.

Wearied by a laborious investigation of ruins,
without having discovered a single inscription,
medal, or bas-relief, we hastened to enjoy the
Tekar^ beautics of Nature in the delightful Valley of
^*"^ Tchorgona ; whither the Professor conducted us,
to pass the night in the mansion of his friend
HahlitZy whose name he has commemorated by
the Salvia Hablitzianaj and whose good offices
he so often and so pathetically mentions in his
writings\ Perhaps there is not a spot in the
Crimea more distinguished by its natural per-
fections. Although comprised within a smaller
scale, it far surpasses the boasted Valley of
Baidar. The seat of Mr. Hablitz was originally
the residence of a Turkish Pasha^ and it pre-
serves the irregular structure and the grotesque
magnificence of Turkish architecture. It is
shaded by vines, tall fruit-trees, and poplars;
standing among rocks and mountains covered
with woods, and gardens watered by numerous
fountains. Near to the house there is a large
antient tower, covered by a dome : this was a
place of refuge for the inhabitants, when the

(1) See particularly " TraoeU through the Southern Provmeet," fc.
vol, IL p. 09.

VALLEY OF TCHORGONA. ggg

Black Sea swarmed with corsairs, who invaded ^y^'
the coast, and ransacked the peaceful valleys
of the Crimea, We found in its upper chamhers
a few swivels, and some other small pieces of
artillery; yet the building itself appeared to
have been erected in an age anterior to the use
of ^gunpowder in Europe. The Tahtars in the
Valley of Tchorgona are reckoned among the
richest of the country. From their vicinity to
AAtiar they find a ready market for the produce
of their lands; carrying thither, honey, wax,
fruit, and com. Their sequestered valley seemed
to be the retreat of health and joy ; not a Russian
was to be seen ; the pipe and tabor sounded
merrily among mountains, thick set with groves,
which closed them in on every side. The
morning after our arrival, we were roused by a
wild concert from the hills, of such instruments
as perhaps enlivened the dances of uncivilized
nations in the earliest periods of society. The
performers were a party of Tzigankies, or gipsies,
who^ as mendicant artificers, musicians, and
astrologers, are very common over all the
South of Russia. They had a wind instrument,
something like a hautboy, made of the wood
of cherry-tree ; and carried the large Tahtar
drum, noticed before as being characteristic of
the Gmhri in the time of Strabo^.

(3) See p. 138 of this Volume.

mate.

^95 VALLEY OF TCHOBOONA.

CHAP. Early in the morning of this day. Professor
>«iP^/w Pallas rode with Mr. Galena^ who came by his
appointment, to Inkerman^^ to shew to him some
marine plants proper in the preparation of
kelp. The bad air of that place, added to the
fatigue he had encounted the preceding day,
threw him into a violent fever: from this
however, we had the happiness to see him
recover, before we left the Crimea. Fevers are
so general, during summer, throughout the
Peninsuloj that it is hardly possible to avoid
SJ^"^fi!°^ them. If you drink water after eating fridl^
a fever follows ; if you eat milk, eggs, or
butter — a fever; if, during the scorching heit
of the day, you indulge in the most trividl

neglect of clothing — a fever ; if you venture oot

I —— ~

(I) In the dearth of intelligence concerning InktirmoMf tbt W
account preserycd by Broniaviui is interesting and Taliiabl& ii •
author, he was not only cited, but transcribed by Tkuanut ; otiMrtH
his writings appear to have escaped observation. ** Inffermemm^
liarUfus xii vel amplius d CoslaviA dittat, Areem lop&iCeaaiy
speau sub areey et ex adverso arcit miro apere ex peirA
nam in monte maxitno et altUHmo rita est, ae inde d, tpeeubuii
coffuomen retinet* Oppidum quondam non ignobUsy opUnu \
berrimumy et natura loci maxima admirandum,copion»iimMwnqmi

Ingermeni areem satis et magn\ficamy d iVi

extruetamfuisse apparet : nam porta etisdlficia adhucnomniOti
GhrtBcis eharacteribus exomata, et cum insignibus earw
spiciuntur, Ac per univertum Ulum isthmum quondam ibi
urbis mcenia esdyieia sumptuosa extitisse, puteos excavaJoi h^fbdh% (
adhucfere plurimi sunt integri ; ad extremum veto duoB
grandes lapidibus stratas esse, certd apparet,'* Martini
taria. Lug, Bat, 1630.

VALLEY OP TCHORQOlf A. 297

to enjoy the delightful breezes of the evening — ^^p-
a fever ; in short, such is the dangerous nature v^v^
of the dimate to strangers, that interna must
consider the country as a ccemetery for the
troopB which are sent to maintain its possession.
This is not the case with regard to its native
inhabitants, the Tahtars : the precautions they
use, added to long experience, insure their
safety. Upon the slightest change of weather,
they are seen wrapped up in sheep-skins, and
covered by thick felts; while their heads are \

swathed in numerous bandages of linen, or
guarded by warm stuffed caps, fenced with
wooL

The Tahtar Nobles of the Crimea^ or MoarzOj Tahtar
as they are called, by a name answering to the ^^^^^
Persian word MirzOf so common in our Oriental
tales, amount in number to about two hundred
and fifty. Their dress is altogether CircassiaUj
excepting that the cap is larger than the sort of
S covering worn on the head by the princes of
m. Mcunt iCatisasus. Their figure on horseback is "
|^Bl the highest degree stately. Among all
^'i» Crimean Tahtars, of whatsoever rank, an
il^ance of manners may be remarked : this,
tthongh perhaps common to Oriental nations,
ffiards a striking opposition to the boorish
igure of a Russian. It is diverting to see them

298 VALLEY OP TCHORGOKA.

cnAP. converse together : the Tahtar has, in oommon
"^•^^^/^^ with the Russian^ an impetuosity and eagerness
in uttering his expressions ; hut it is zeal veiy
differently characterized. The Tahtar may be
said to exhibit the playful flexibility and varying
posture of the leopard ; while the Mussiath rather
resembUng the bear, is making an aukward
parade of his paws. The dress of a Tahtar
nobleman displays as much taste as can be
shewn by a habit which is necessarily decorated
with gold and silver lace : it is neither heavily
laden with ornament, nor are the colours tawdry.
The nobles sometimes delight in strong contrast,
by opposing silver lace to black velvet, for their
caps ; scarlet or rose-coloured silk to dark
cloth, for their vest or pelisse ; but, in general,
the dress of a Tahtar of distinction is remarkable
for its simple elegance, as well as for its clean-
liness. Their favourite colour in cloth is drab ;
and the grey or white wool, for their winter
caps, is, of all other ornaments, the most in
esteem. The Russian peasant, being of a dimi-
nutive race, and connected with the Laplander^
as the next link in the chain between him and
the pigmy, is naturally of a lively disposition;
he is never completely aukward, except when
RuMtum metamorphosed as a soldier. The moment he
^^"**** enters the ranks, all the brisk and cheerful
expression of his countenance is gone; he

VALLEY OF TCHOBOONA. 299

then apears a chopfinlleii, stapid, brow-beaten,
sullen clown. The Russian commanders may
class under the same description; with this
difference, that they are more profligate. A
Russian Prince and a Russian peasant exhibit
the same striking traits of national character ^

Upon the rocks behind the house of Mr. <Meki
Hablitz, we found the identical plant Pallas
distinguished by the name of his friend. Salvia
HabUtziana^ growing in great abundance. Mr.

(1) ButUr, with singular felidty of delineatioiiy has afforded, in hit
Hudibnu, so fidthfol a portrait of a Russian General, that no person
acquainted with the country will read it, without acknowledging the
representation to be as accurate as if Potemkm himself had sat for the
picture :

** He was by birth, as authors write,
A Russian, some a Moscovite,
And 'mong the Cossacks had been bred.
Of whom we in diumals read.
That senre to fill up pages here,
As with their bodies ditches theret,
Scrimansky was his cousin-german.
With whom he served, and fed on yermin :
And when these failed he'd suck his claws,
And quarter himself upon his paws.
And though his countrymen, the Huns,
Did stew their meat between their bums
And th' horses' backs, o'er which they straddle.
And every man eat up his saddle ;
He was not half so nice as they.
But eat it raw when 't came in his way."

Hudib. Part. I. Cant. 2.
(8) Potemkin died in a ditch near Yassy; and after his interment in
the church at Cherson, his body was taken up, by order of the Emperor
Paul, and cast into the fosse of the fortress.

300 VALLEY OF TCHOROOKA.

<^HAP. Hablitz first observed it upon the spot whence
>^N^^ we derived our specimens, and he sent the
seed to Pallas in Petersburg. The ptant is
however stiU uncommonly rare. As a perannial,
it may be sown in common garden soil in the
open air; and it increases annually in sixe^
until it becomes a fine tall shrub of very great
beauty. We afterwards brought it to the
Botanic Garden in Cambridge; where it abo
succeeded, but it has never equalled the wse it
attains in Russia. In the Crimea the blossom ss
larger, and the fiowers are more abundant, than
upon the English specimens.

From Tchorgofia we returned again to ShulAt
and from thence to Kara IlaeSy where we passed
the night in the palace of a Tahtar nobleman,
upon the sort of sofa called divafij which always
surrounds the principal apartment of a Tahtarian
or Turkish palace. Here we were covered
by bugs and by fieas of the most enormous
size ; they came upon us like ants from an
ant-hill. Tlie next day we drove pleasantly
Beturn to to Akmetchctj and once more shared the com-
forts of the Professor's hospitable mansion;
regretting only the fever with which he was
afflicted in consequence of an excursion, other-
wise considered by us the most agreeable we
had ever made.

Journey to Koslof — Result of the Expedition —
Return to Ahnetcket — Marshal Biberstein —
Departure from Akmetcket — Perecop — Salt
Harvest — Nagay Taktars — Rana variabilis —
General Survey of the Crimea — Country north
of the Isthmus — Facility of travelling in Russia
— Bandittiof the Ukraine-^- Anecdote of a despe-
rate Robber — Intrepid Conduct of a Courier —
Caravans — Biroslaf — Cherson — Burial ofPo-
teinkin — Recent di^sal of his body — Partica-

503 JOURNEY TO KOSLOF.

lars of the death of Howard — Order of his
Funeral — Tomb of Howard — Nicholaef

CHAP '^EX

viii/ W E left Akmetchet for Koslof on the twenty-
Journey to eighth of September^ in the hope of ohtauiing a
^^'^^ passage to Constantinople^ on board a TurMsh
brigantine, Captain Osman Mees. From what-
ever port of the Russian empire our escape
might be effected, we knew it would be attended
with considerable hazard. We had been denied
a passport from Government to that effect,
and we had every reason to be convinced none
would be speedily granted. After waiting many
months, in vain expectation of a release from the
oppressive tyranny then exercised over English-
men by every Russian they encountered, female in-
terest in Petersburg accomplished our delivery'.
A forged order from the Sovereign was exe-
cuted, and sent to us: by means of which, in
spite of the vigilance of the police, we contrived
to leave the country. It is proper to state this
circumstance, lest any of those, by whom we
were so hospitably entertained, should hereafter
be considered as having been accessary to our
flight. Koslof was fixed upon, as a place the

(1) Nothing but the dangerous consequences of a more exjdidt
acknowledgment prevents the author firom naming the Friend to whom
he was thus indebted.

VUI.

KOSLOF. 303

least liable to those researches, on the part of ^^^^f*
spies and custom-house officers, which were
likely to impede our departure. Having crossed
the steppes leading to this place, we arrived
there in the middle of the night. Such a tre-
mendous storm of thunder, lightning, wind, hail,
and rain, came on before we reached the town, that
our horses refused to proceed ; and we were
compelled to halt, opposing our backs to its
fiiry, until the violence of the tempest subsided^

As soon as morning dawned, we caused our
baggage to be sealed at the custom-house ; and
agreed for our passage, at the enormous rate of
two hundred and fifty roubles : this was deemed
by us a moderate sum, as the original demand
had been six hundred. The common rate of a
passenger from Koslof to Constantinople is not
more than ten; but it was evident that the
TurkSf suspecting the nature of our situation.

(8) Owing to sleeping in this situation, exiKMed to the misasniata of
■tit-marshes, causing a somnolency it is impossible to resist, a qnartan
fcTcr which the author had so long combated was again renewed.
Mr. Cripp$ was also attacked, but with different effect ; a sore throat,
attended by a cutaneous eruption covering his whole body, and fh>m
which he was soon relieyed, was all the consequence to him of the
Ti^Mrars to which he had been exposed. These otMenrations cannot be
leeonciled to the account Pallat afterwards published of the exha-
lations from the stagnant lakes near Koslof. He says, {vol, II. p. 4S9)
tfaej cootribote greatly to the salubrity of the town, and that inter-
mitlent fe? era are lest frequent here than at other places.

30^ K08L0F.

CHAP, wished to make of us a booty. When all was

VIII. , , , . n 1

settled, the inspector of the customs, to our
great dismay, accompanied by several officers,
came to assure us, that the town would not be
responsible for our safety, if we ventured to
embark in the brigantine : this they described
as being so deeply laden, that she was already
nine inches below her proper poise in the water.
The Captain had, moreover, two shallops of
merchandize to take on board, and sixty-four
passengers* Some Armenians had already
removed their property from the vessel ; and it
was said she was so old and rotten, that her
seama would open if exposed to any tempestuous
weather. The Captain, a bearded Turi^ like
aU the mariners of his country, was a stanch
predestinarian : this circumstance, added to his
avarice, rendered him perfectly indifferent to the
event. As commander of the only ship in the
harbour bound for Constantinoplej he had heea
induced to stow the cargoes of two ships within
his single vessel. This often happens with
Turkish merchantmen in the Black Sea^ and it is
one of the causes of their numerous disasters.
To prove the extent of the risk they will en-
counter, it may be added, that, after our return to
Akmetchetj the captain filled his cabin with four
hundred cantars of honey ; and Professor Pallas
was offered a thousand roubles to obtain the

(1) ^ At Koslof, or Eupatoria, I remember nothing interesting :
bot in the desert near it, we saw some parties of the Nagay Tahtan,
ind had an opportunity of examining their kibitkas, which are shaped
something like a bee-hive, consisting of a frame of wood covered with
ftity and placed upon wheels. They are smaller and more clomsy
than the tents of the Kalmacks, and do not, like them, take to pieces.
In the Crimea, they are more used for the occasional habitation of the
shepherd, than for regular dwelluigs. We saw a great many buffaloes
and camels : several of the latter we met drawing in the two-wheeled
earts described before, a service for which I should have thought them
not so well adapted as for bearing burthens -, and, although * a chariot
iftmuU is mentioned by Isaiah, I do not remember having heard of
such a practice elsewhere. The plain of Koslof is hardly elevated above
the sea, and fresh water is very scarce and bad." Heber*$ MS, Journal*

VIII.

KOSLOF. 305

Governor's acquiescence in an additional contra- chap.
band cargo of two thousand bulls' hides; the
exportation of this article beings at that time,
strictly prohibited.

Koslof^ derives its name from a Taktar com-
pound, Criis Cove ; the origin of which cannot be
distinctly ascertained. Giis signifies 'an eye,'
and Ove * a hut.' The Russians, with their
usual ignorance of antient geography, bestowed
upon it the name of Eupatorium. It has beeir
shewn already, that Eupatorium stood in the
Minor Peninsula of the Heracleotas, near the city
of Chersanesus* As to the present state of the
place itself, it is one of those wretched remnants
of the once flourishing commercial towns of the
Crimea^ which exemplify the effects of Mttssian

305 KOSLOF.

CHAP, dominion. Its trade is annihilated ; its houses
are in ruins ; its streets are desolate ; the
splendid mosques, with which it was adorned,
are unroofed ; the minarets have heen throvm
down ; its original inhabitants were either
banished or murdered; all that we found re-
maining, were a few sneaking Russian officers
of the police and customs, with here and there
a solitary Turk or Tahtar^ smoking among the
ruins, and sighing over the devastation he
beheld. Its commerce was once of very con-
siderable importance. Its port contained fifty
vessels at the same time ; a great number, con-
sidering that the other ports of the Crimea had
each their portion. We found them reduced to
one accidental rotten brigantine, the precarious
speculation of a few poor Turkish mariners;
who, although common sailors on board, shared
equally with the Captain the profit of the voyage.
In better times, Koslofj from her crowded shores,
exported wool, butter, hides, fur, and com.
The com has now risen to such a price, that it
is no longer an article of exportation : the wool,
fiir, and hides, are prohibited. In short, as a
commercial town, it no longer exists. The only
ship, which had left the port previous to our
arrival, sailed with a determination to return no
more ; not only on account of the length of time
required in procuring a cargo, but owing to the

RETURN TO AKMETOHET. 307

bribery and corruption it was necessary to ^^^f-
satisfy, in order to get away*. >^\^^

In retuminfif to AkmetcheU we halted to water Return to
our horses in the steppes^ where the dwelhngs
were entirely subterraneous. Not a house was
to be seen: but there were some holes, as
entrances, in the ground : through one of these
we descended into a cave, rendered almost
suffocating by the heat of a stove for dressing
the victuals of its poor owners. The walls, the
floor, and the roof, were all of the natural soil.
If such retreats were the original abodes of
mankind, the art of constructing habitations
was borrowed from badgers, foxes, and rabbits.
At present, such dwellings are principally, if
not solely, tenanted by shepherds of the Crimea ;
who dig these places for their residence during
winter.

Having failed in the object of our journey to
Koslof^ we prepared to leave the Peninsula by

(S) PaHat^s account of Koslof is only applicable to its former state.
''In the jear 1703y for instance, one hundred and seventy-six vessels
were freighted with com, salt, and leather; and the short route by
which goods are conveyed hither, by the Nagays^ and by the Tahtars
faihabiting the banks of the Dnieper, affords the greatest fiusiJity to the
com trade.'* T^raveUj vol, II. p. 401. Tliis town is thus men-

tioned by Brcniomui : '' Cotloma oppidum ad dextrum Perecopue ad mare
iUum milliaribuM ieptem distat. Empor io non ignobUi^pra^fectum arcis
ei oppUH Chanut praprium et perpetuum ibi habet" De»criptin Tarta-
rut, p. 860. Lug. Bat. 1630.

VOL. II. X

VIII.

Manhal
Biber-

30g BY THE ISTHMUS OP PERBCOP,

CHAP, another roate, and to attempt a journey by land
to Constantinople. For this purpose we dis-
patched letters to our Ambassador at the Porte^
requesting an escort of Janissaries to meet us
at Yassy. The evening before we took our final
leave of Akmetchet was enlivened by the company
and conversation of Marshal JUberstein^ a literary
•ictn. friend of the Professor's, who had been recently
travelling along the VolgcL^ the shores of the Ctu-
plan, and in Caticasus. He was two years an exile
in the Isle of Taman^ where he had amused him-
self with the study of Botany^ and the antiquities
of the country. He brought several new plants
to the Professor, and confirmed the observatiom
we had before made upon the Ctrnmerian Bos-
porus. We had, moreover, the satis&ction to
find, that the map we had prepared to illustrate
the antient geography of the Crimea agreed
with his own observations upon that subject
In answer to our inquiries concerning the
relative height of the Alps and the Caucastan
chain of mountains, he said, that the ^4^ are
no where so elevated ; and mentioned Mownt
ChaV as being higher than Mont Blanc. Being

(1) Now called JSlbonu by the dreastians, aocoiding to Hs
name, it has two points at its summit ; and is visible from the fatiwi
of StamropdU, on the Ckatcatian line, a distance of three hundred mni$»
Its iMise descends into a swampy impassable plain, and this plain eqaab
in elcTation the tops of the nei^liboaring mountains.

TO NICHOLABF. 3O9

questicmed about the tribe of the Turcomannij ^S^F*
now called Turkmeny and TrtwkmeTizif by the ^^/^
Taktarsy he described them as a race of very
rich nonmdeSf still numerous in the steppes near
Astrachan ; remarkable for great personal beauty,
as well as for their patient endurance of the
unjust taxes and heavy exactions required of
them by the neighbouring Governors.

The Equinox brought with it a series of ^^'m^
tempestuous weather, which continued until ^^^^
the tenth of October. Upon this day the violence
of the wind abated ; and a second summer
ensuing, we took a final leave of our friends,
quitting, for ever, their hospitable society.
Professor Pallas set out for his vineyards at
Smdak\ and we took our route across the
stqipes, towards Perecop. The late storms had
destroyed even the small produce of the vines,
upon the coast, which the locusts had spared.

(S) Antiently Xiidywe, Sogdaia, Sudagra, and Sugdaia. This city
vote to raeh eeldl>rity by its commerce, that all the Greek posseftsions
fm Hm Crhmm were called Sugdama. (Storeh, torn, I. p. 172.) It had
• trifle iartresi ; and it if noticed by Branioviui and by Tkuanus. (See
ik§ AdMimuU Nciet at theend qf tMs Vttlume,) A curions etymology of
lUf void, M it if now pronounced (Sudak), occors in OaUf9 Court of
tft flirtfaf, d. iL «. 7. p. 200. Oxon, 1609. It if founded upon an
;ftvm JBkmMim, Prmpar, Ub. i. 'Be Sk rov Zv^dc HUeKovpM 4
'^JP'ramSifdifk sprang the Dioseuri or CaUH.'—'' We find the
ttk%* eontlBMa tbe learned Gale, " mentioned by Damufduf in
Phottaa: ^oid^Kmydp iyi¥ovrowaiBtt,o^Q Auxrco^povc ipintvt^oitci ttal
Xt4Ulp9WQ Sadffk begat ekUdren^ wkidk they interpret Dioeeuri and

X 2 CaUri'

VIII.

310 ^ '^^ ISTHMUS OF PBRECOP,

CHAP. Some fruit-trees put forth a premature blossom :
and we found the plains covered with the gaudy
and beautiful flowers of the autumnal crocus.
Their bulbs were very deep in the soil : this
consists of a rich black vegetable earth. The
Taurican chain of mountains, with the summit
of Tchetirdagh towering above the rest, appeared
very conspicuous about the south. Towards
the north, the whole country exhibited a bound-
less flat plain, upon which caravans were passing,
laden with water-melons, cucumbers, cabbages,
and other vegetables : these, with the exception
ofantient tumuli^ were almost the only objects
we observed. Some of the vehicles were
drawn by camels, and were prindpaUy destined
for Koslof. We travelled all night : in the
morning, at sun-rise, we were roused by our
interpreter, a Greeks who begged we would
notice an animal, half flying and half running,
among the herbs. It was s^jerbooj the quadruped
already noticed in a former chapter '. We

CatirL** Pint Sydyk, or Sadyk, was a Phamieian God, ai
Grecian Japiter; and no other than a Satanic Ape, of the taered
p"^!^ (Saddik), attributed to the true God of Jsrad, as PRalm 119.
137, and elswehere. ThoB, in two Instances of Qrtdan. cities In tk*
Crimea^ we have appellations derived from the most antient naiMi d
the Beity among Eastern nations : Aaoauda, or EnTAOBOS, a nsas
of Tlieodona; and Stdyk, or Sadtk, presenred in the present appil-
lation, SvoAK. Hence we may alM> explain the meaning of tbe Pi
name Sadio, or Zaoio.

(1) See p. 166 of this Volume.

VIII.

TO NICHOLAEF. 31 1

caught it with some difficulty ; and should not ^"^p-
have succeeded, hut for the cracking of a large
whip ; this terrified it so much, that it lost all
recollection of its hurrow. Its leaps were
extraordinary for so small an animal; some-
time? to the distance of six or eight yards, hut
in no determinate direction : it bounded back-
wards and forwards, without ever quitting the
vicinity of the place where it was found. The
most singular circumstance in its nature is the
power it possesses of altering its course when
in the air. It first leaps perpendicularly from
the ground, to the height of four feet or more ;
and then, by a motion of its tail, with a clicking
noise, it bears off in whatsoever direction it
chooses.

From the appearance which Perecap^ makes Pereeap.

(S) ''At Perekop are only one or two houses, inhabited by the
poftBMWter and costom-house officers; and a little barrack. The
finnoiis wall is of earth, yery lofty, with an immense ditch. It stretches
in a straight line from sea to sea, without any remains of bastions or
iwikhig towers, that I could dkcover. The Golden Oate is narrow,
■ad too low finr an English waggon. Oolden, among the Tahtars, seems
^jnonymous with AoyaZ ; and thus we hear of the Oolden horde, the
GUdem tent, &c. Colonel Symes mentions the same manner of
ciynssion In Ava ; so that I suppose it is common all oyer the East.
Tkers is only one well at Perekop, the water of which is brackish and
■addy. A string of near two hundred kibitkas were passing, hulen
with salt, and drawn by oxen : tliey were driyen by Malo-Russians, who
had brought com into the Crimea, and were returning with their pre-
seot caigo. White or clariflM salt is unknown in the South of Russia ;

VIII.

312 BY THB ISTHMUS OF PBRECOP,

CHAP, in all the maps of this comitry, it might be
expected that a tolerable fortress would be

it appears^ eyea on the best tablet, with the greater part of its imiw-
rities adhering, and conseqaently qnite brown. KlbJtkaa, laden wtth
thia commodity, form a kind of caravan. They seldom go oM of thdr
way for a town or Tillage, bnt perform longjonmeys; the drivers 0Bi|y
sheltered at night on the lee-side of their carriages, and stretched oa
the grass. During the independence of the Crimea, (an old oAecr toU
me), these people were always armed, and trayelled withont fear of tht
Tahtars, drawing op their waggons erery night In a circle, and ksffptag
regular sentries. We here, with great regret, quitted the Crimea aad
its pleasing inhabitants : it wa^ really like being turned out of Paradiss^
when we abandoned those beautiful mountains, and again found oai^
selves in the vast green desert, which had before tired us so thoroogUy ;
where we changed olires and cypresses, clear water and fresh mflk, ftr
reeds, long grass, and the drainings of marshes, only mMde not polaoaoas
by being mixed with brandy ; and when, instead of a dean carpet at
night, and a supper of eggs, butter, honey, and sweetmeats, we retamed
to the seat of our carriage, and thp remainder of our old cheese.

*' PaUas has properly distinguished the two distinct races of Tabtafs,
the Nogays and the mountaineers. These last, however, ajqteared to
me to resemble in their persons the Turks and the Tahtars of Kostroma
and Yaroslaf. They are a fair and handsome people, like the Tahtais
in the north of Russia, g^ven to agriculture and commerce, and here, ts
well as there, decidedly different from the Nogays, or other Moogal
tribes. The Nogays, however, in the Crimea, appear to have greatly
improved their breed by intermarriages witii the original inhabhaalf,
being much handsomer and taller than those to the north of the GoMea
Qate. The mountaineers have large busby beards when old ; tbe
Tahtars of the Plain seldom possess more than a few thin hairs. TV
mountaineers are clumsy horsemen, in which they resemble the north-
em Tahtars. Their neighbours ride very boldly, and wdL I had sa
opportunity of seeing two Nogay shepherd-boys, who were gaOoptag
their horses near Koslof, and who showed an agility and dexterity
which were really surprising. While the horse was in ftdl speed, ttey
sprung from their seats, stood upright on the saddle, leapt oa ttt
ground, and agrain into the saddle ; and threw tlieir whips to ssbt
distance, and caught them up firom the ground. What was noft
remarkable, we ascertained that they were ma«ly shepherds, and Ait

tbeK

TO NICHOLAEF. 313

found here, to guard the passage of the Isthmus : ^y||f '
yet nothing can be imagined more wretched

then accompUflhmento were not extraordinary. Both mountaineers
ttBd fhepherds are amiable, gentle, and hospitable, except where they
have been eowred by their Ruuktn mattere* We ne?er approached a
village at night-fall, where we were not requested to lodge ; or In the
day-timey without being inyited to eat and drink: and, while they
were thus attentive, they uniformly seemed careless about payment,
eren fbr the horses they furnished; never counting the money, and
ufken oflSving to go away without it. They are steady in refusing
Buffian money ; and it is necessary to procure a sufficient stock of
vtliiks, paras, and sequins. This is not their only way of shewing
tbeir dislike to their new masters : at one village we were surprised at
o«r acanty &re, and the reluctance with which every thing was fur-
aidied, till we learnt they had mutaken uefor Rtiseian qfficers. On
finding that we were foreigners, the eggs, melted butter, nardek, and
bdunesa, came in profusion. General Bardakof told us they were
tod of talking politics : when we addressed them on this subject, they
were reserved, and affected an ignorance greater than I thought likely
or natural. Pallas complained of them as disaffected, and spoke much
of tbeir idleness. Yet their vineyards are very neatly kept, and
earefolly watered; and, what is hardly a sign of indolence, their
hooses, clothes, and persons, are uniformly clean. But his account
seemed to me by no means sufficiently favourable. They are, I appre-
hcndy a healthy race ; but we met one instance where a slight wound
hady by neglect, became very painful and dangerous. On asking what
ramedles they had for diseases, they returned a remarkable answer :
' Welay down the eidt man on a bed; and, {fit please Ood, he recovers.
AOsUk Keriml* Their women are concealed, even more (the l>uke of
Biehelien said) than the wives of Turkish peasants ; and are greatly
iglti^ti^ and distressed if seen, for a moment, without a veil. Like
the men* they have very fidr and clear complexions, with dark eyee and
hairy and aquiline noses. Among the men were some figures which
aright have served for models of a Hercules; and the mountaineers
have a very strong and nimble step in walking. An Imaum, who
wears a green turban, and who is also generally the schoolmaster, is
hi every village. Not many, however, of the peasants could read or
write ; and they seemed to pay but little attention to the regular hours
of prayer." Heber*s MS. Journal.

VIII.

314 ^^ "^^ ISTHMUS OF PERECQP,

^^AP. than the hamlet which supplies, with quarters,
a few worn-out invalids. A very inccmsid^rable
rampart extends from sea to sea : the distance
across the Istknms^ in the narrowest part,
scarcely exceeds five miles ; the water being
visible firom the middle of the passage on either
side. Upon the north side of this rampart is a
fosscj twelve fathoms wide, and twenty-five feet
deep ; but this is now dry ; and the difficulty rf
filling it with water is insuperable, in its present
state. The rest of the fortification, originally
a Turkish work, is in a state of neglect and ruin.
The air of the place is very bad ; consequently,
the inhabitants of the neighbouring hamlets, who
are chieflv disbanded soldiers, sufier much from
intermittent fevers*. Strahoj with a degree of
accuracy which characterizes every page of his
writings relative to the CrimecLj states the
breadth of the Isthmus as being equal to forty
stadia\ or five miles. The waters of the Black
Sea and of the Sea of Azof BxmnaJly sustain a

(1) The author cannot account for the remarks made hj PmOm
(ro/. II. p. 460.) concerning the air of this place, and of Kosiqf. He aayty
the saline effluvia from the Sivash correct the otherwise nnwholcaoaie
nature of the atmosphere; yet the had health of the inhabitants is
directly in contradiction of that statement. And again, in p. 9, of tbe
same volume, ^ During the prevalence of east winds, a dissgreeaUa
smell from the Swash or Putrid Sea^ is strongly perceived at Perwetp*
It is nevertheless believed, that these vapours preserve the inhabitanls
from those intermittent fevers, formerly very frequent in the

(*2) Strab. Geogr. lib. vii. p. 445. ed. Oxon,

VIII.

TO NICHOLAEF. 315

certain diminutioii, which may be proved by 9^^^^-
observations upon all the north-western shores :
it is therefore natural to conclude that the
shallows upon either side of the Isthmus have
increased in their extent since the time when
Straho wrote. The following passage of Pliny
seems also to prove that the Peninsula was once
an island* : ** From Carcinites begins Taurica,
once surrounded hy the seoy which covered all the
campaign part of it.'* The constant draining of
the great Eastern flood at length left bare the
vast calcareous deposit which had been accu-
mulated beneath the waters : and this deposit
is now visible over all those extensive plains,
in the South of Russia^ which by the Isthmus of
Perecop are connected with the steppes of the
Crimea. If the waters of the Black Sea were to
be once more restored only to the level of those
strata of marine shells which may be observed
in all the district from the Mouths of the Dnieper
to the JDon^ the Crimea would become again an
island ; visible only, amidst an expanse of ocean,
by the loftier masses of calcareous rocks upon
its southern coast.

Throughout the summer, Perecop^ is a, scene 8aU bbt-

(8) Plin. Nat. Hist. Ub. iv. c. 12.

(3) Perecop is a Riusian word, signifying An Entrenchment of the
ItikmuM, The Tahiar name of this place is Or^Kapy, denoting The

Gate

316 ^Y '^^^ ISTHMUS OF PBRBCOP,

^ym' ^^ ^^^1^ ^^d ^i^^^^^r^* The shores, the ZiMiitiM,
and all the neighhouring steppes^ are covered
with caravans coming for salt ; consisting of wag-
gons, drawn sometimes by camels, but generally
by white oxen, from two to six in each vehicle.
Their freight is so easily obtained^ that they
have only to drive the waggons axle-deep into
the shallow water upon the eastern side of the
Isthmus, and then they may load them as ^t as
they please ; the salt lying like sand. The sight
of so many hundred waggons, by fifties at a
time in the water, is very striking ; they appear
like fleets of small boats floating upon the
surface of the waves. The driver of each
waggon pays a tax of ten roubles to the Crown.
There are various . reservoirs of salt in the
Crimea ; but those of Perecap, used from imme-
morial time, are the most abundant, and they
are considered as inexhaustible. Taurica Cher-
sonesus was an emporium of this commodity
in the earliest periods of history : it was then
sent, as it is now, by the Black Sea, to Canstan-
tinople, and to the Archipelago; by land, to
Poland, and over all Russia, to Moscow, to

Gate of the Fortification." PaUat's Travels, vol. II. p. 5. Upon this
subject Branioviua is also very explicit. " Nomen Pr^BCopemet i
fossA habent : nam Prbzbcop quorum linguA fos»am ngK^fieai"
DucHpt. Tartar, p, 224. ed. Lug. Bat.'lQQO. See also his farther
observations; in the Additional Notes at the end of this volume.

TO NICHOLAEF. 3jy

Petersburg^ and even to Riga. The oxen, after chap.
their long journey, are occasionally sold with
the cargoes they have brought ; and sometimes
they return agam, the whole of that immense
distance, with other merchandize. The cara-
vans halt every evening at sun-set ; when their
drivers turn their oxen loose to graze, and lie
down themselves, in the open air, to pass the
night upon the steppe. We noticed one, among
many groups of this kind, remarkably inter-
esting; because it possessed the novelty of a
female S whose features were not concealed
by a veil. She was preparing to pass the
night, with her child, upon the grass of the
steppe ; preferring the canopy of heaven to that
of the madjar\ Her companions were of a
wild but equivocal race, among whom the
Tahtar features appeared to predominate : they
were clothed in goat-skins. Nothing is more
striking than the spectacle afforded by these
immense caravans, slowly advancing, each in
one direct line, by hundreds at a time : they
exhibit a convincing proof of a very con-
siderable internal commerce carried on by

(1) '* Tartari $ua$ mulieres in abditU temper tenent loeii,** Michal.
litiiaD. Fragment, de Morib. Tartarorom. Lug. Bat. 1680.

(8) Tlie Tahtar waggon, called Ma^far or Maggiar, is always of
the same form and materials; a long, narrow yehicley supported by
four wooden wheels, without any iron attire.

318 ^Y '^"^ ISTHMUS OF PBRBCOP,

CHAP. Russioj with the remotest provinces of her vast
empire.

VIII.

Jjgy^ Another singular appearance at Perecop is
afforded by the concourse oi 'Nagay Tahtars
frequenting the market for water-melons, a
species of fruit seen here of extraordinary
size and perfection. These Tahtars are a very
different people from the Tahtars of the Crimeai
they are distinguished by a more dimi*
nutive form, and by the dark copper colour of
their complexion, which is sometimes almost
black. Thev bear a remarkable resemblance
to the Laplanders^ although their dress and
manner have a more savage character. It is
probable that the Nagay Tahtar and the
Laplander were originally of the same family,
difficult as it now is to deduce the circumstances
of their origin '. The following fact may serve

(1) The tabject of their relationship might bowe?er have reoelTed
coDBiderable illaBtration, had the writings of the learned Partkan
Professor of History at the Uniyersity of ^60 in Finland^ found their
way to the rest of Eurcpe, Excluded by his situation from all inter-
course with more enlightened seminaries, his labours and his name
have hardly reached the ears of any literary society; yet should bis
lucubrations sunrive the present desolating scourge by which the
Ruitkau afflict those remote provinces of Sweden^ a brighter light may
irradiate the pages of History ; and the annals of mankind may derive
additional records from a native of Finlandt skilled in the language,
the traditions, and the mythology of his countrymen.

TO MCHOLABF. 319

.to point out an original connection between the ^^ff'
Laplanders and Tahtars ; as it is now generally
admitted that America was peopled by colonies
from Asioj passing the Aleoutan Isles. When
the Moravians ipade their settlement upon the
coast of Labrador^ they employed a Greenland
Interpreter^ in order to converse with the
natives, who are distinguished by the coppar-
coloured complexion and the features of the
Nagay Tahtars and Laplanders. The Crimean
Tahtar is a person of much more stately
demeanour than the Nagay ; he is farther
advanced in civilization ; he possesses a better
figure; and he is often distinguished by very
engaging manners. Many of the Crimean
Tahtars annually leave the Crimea^ upon a pilgri-
mage to Mecca and Medina ; so that a continual
intercourse with other nations has contributed
to their superior station in the general scale
of society. A Crimean Tahtar must either make
this pilgrimage himself, once in his life; or
he must send a representative, and defray the
expenses of the journey. Those pilgrims
proceed first to Constantinople: here the main
body divides ; a part choosing the shortest
route by Alexandria^ where they join the
Egyptian caravan, and the rest advancing by
the way of Syria^ to Damascus, &c. The first
route is liable to the greater inconvenience.

320 ^Y '^^^ ISTHMUS OF PERBCOP,

CHAP, as they sometimes suffer two or three days

VIII. "^ , i. i!

^^v^^ upon their march, from want of water: the
Syrian route is therefore generally preferred.
In their march, they visit Jerusalem^ the river
Jordan^ the Dead Sea^ and other parts of the
Holy liand : the Mohammedans entertaining great
veneration for the memory of Christ, whom
they r^ard as a Prophet, although not as the
Son of God. Persons who have completed
this pilgrimage are dignified, after their return,
with the title of Hadji.

Rana Upon the Isthmus we a^ain ohserved the

I « III * o

revolting appearance of the sort of toad {Rana
variabilis) before noticed. This reptile swarms
in all the territory bordering the Sivashy or
Putrid Sea, to the east of the Peninsula. It
crawls even to the tops of the hills, near the
Straits of Taman, and may generally be con-
sidered as an indication of unwholesome air ;
for, where the air is better than usual in. the
Crimea^ this animal is proportionally rare. It
burrows in tlie earth, like the jerboa^ or the
rabbit.

To a person leaving Perecop, as in approaching
it, the sea is visible upon both sides of the
Isthmus. A canal might therefore be formed, so
as to insulate the Crimea, and to render it very

TO NICHOLABF. 3^1

difficult of approach upon the Russian side. We chap.

proceeded towards the Dnieper ; and journeyed, v^^v^

as before, over plains upon which there is not

a trace of any thing that can properly be called

a road. Different excursions in Taurica had General

. • • Survey of

made the whole Peninsula familiar to our recol- the CHr
lection; and we were amused by considering
the probable surprise a traveller would expe-
rience, who, after reading the inflated and
fidladous descriptions that have been published
of the Crimean scenery, should pass the Isthmus
ofPerecop, and journey, during a day and a
half^ without beholding any other proo& of a
habitable country, or any other object through-
out a flat and boundless desert, than a few
miserable peasants, stationed at the different
relays to supply horses for the post. So
narrow is the tract of cultivated land upon the
southern coast, that it may be compared to an
edging of lace upon the lower hem of a large
apron. Beyond the Isthmus^ towards the north,
the plains were covered by caravans of salty
and every route was filled with them. For the
rest, the appearance of the country was pre-
cisely the same as in the north of the Crimea.
Our journey, therefore, resembled that of JDe country
Mubruquis^ in the thirteenth century ; and it might theitth-
be fully described in seven of his own words : —

NULLA EST SYLVA, NULLUS MONS, NULLUS

323 BY I^B ISTHMUS OF PERBCOP,

CHAP. LAPIS.** The later flowers of autumn occa-

VIII.

sionally drew our attention from an endeaTour

to proceed as fast as possible, and we collected
several^: among others, an Arabis, and an
Muphorbia : the latter, Marshal Biherstein had
exhibited at Akmetchet^ from his own collection,
as a new species, found by him in Caticasus, and
in the neighbourhood of Sarepta. The roads
Faciutyof wcrc, as usual, excellent. Throughout all the
2[*i^51 South ofRussiay excepting after heavy rain, the
traveller may proceed with a degree of speed
and facility unknown in any other country. A
journey from Moscow to Zaritzin^ to Astrachan^
and thence, along the whole Caucasian line, to
the Straits of Taman, might be considered as a
mere summer excursion, for the most part
easier and pleasanter than an expedition through
any part of Germany. The horses, of a superior
quality, are always ready : the turf, over which
the roads extend, is excellent, excepting during
the rainy season. Much greater expedition
may be used in the same country, during
winter, by travelling upon sledges, as it is well
known.

(1) The Woolly MUfoil, AckUleapubaeens ; Siberian Bell-flower,
Canqxmula SUrirka; Downy Goldilocks, Chrytoeoma vUloaa; Rfd
Eyebrigbt, Euphrasia Odontites ; &c.

TO NICHOLAEF. 323

The roads leading from the Crimea towards ^^^j'*-
the north of Mtissia are supposed to be infested Ji^^Y?^
with bands of desperate robbers, who inhabit ofthe

• "1 1 i» 1- Ukraine*

the extensive deserts lying to the north of the
Peninsula. Stories of this kind rarely amount
.to more than idle reports. If credit be given
to all that is related concerning the danger of
this route, it would be madness to risk
the journey ; but few well-attested instances
have occurred, of any interruption or hazard
whatsoever. Perhaps before the Crimea be-
came subject to Mussia^ there was more real
foundation for alarm ; because the country,
where the banditti are said to dwell, then
constituted the frontier of Little Tahtary; and
in all parts of the globe, frontiers are most liable
to evils of this description, from the facility of
escape thereby offered to the plunderer or to
the assassin. From the author's own experience
in almost every part of Europe, after all the
tales he has heard of the danger of traversing
this or that country, he can mention no place
so full of peril as the environs of London ; where
there are many persons passing at all hours of
the day and night with perfect indifference, who
would shrink from the thoughts of an expedition
across the deserts of Najgay, or the territory
of the Don Cossacks. The Nagay Tahtars, from
their nomade life, are a wilder and more savage

VOL. II. Y

VIII.

324 ^^ '^^^ ISTHMUS OF PEBECOP,

CHAP, people than those of the Crimea^ because they
are altogether unsettled, and therefore are as
barbarous as the Calmucks : but their occupations
are pastoral ; and a pastoral condition of society
is rarely characterized by cruelty, or by acts of
open violence. Yet, while their whole attention
seems to be given to the care of their flocks and
herds, it must be acknowledged that soma facts
are related, respecting the road firom Moscow to
Perecop, which are too well authenticated to
admit of any dispute. About four years before
we visited the Crimea, the lady of Admiral
Mordvinof, travelling this way, attended by an
especial escort to secure her from danger, and
a very numerous suite of servants, was stopped
by a very formidable party of banditti^ who
plundered her equipage of every thing worth
bearing away. General Mickelson, Governor-
general of the OrimeOf shewed us, at Akmetchetj
a dreadful weapon, taken from the hands of a
robber who was discovered lurking in that
neighbourhood. It consisted of a cannon-ball,
a two-pounder, slung at the extremity of a
leathern thong, having a handle like that of
a whip, whereby it might be hurled with
prodigious force. But, after all, it may be
proved, that none of these deeds are the work
of Tahtars. The particular district said to be
the most dangerous, in all the road from Moscow

VIII.

TO NICHOLAEF. 3^5

to Perecopi occurs between KremencMk and ^^^^p.
Ekaterinoslafj upon the frontier of Po/and. The
robbers hitherto taken have been invariably
from that neighbourhood ; they were inhabitants
of the Tchemo Lc£s^ or Black Forest^ and ge-
nerally from the village of Zimkoia ; whose
inhabitants are the remnant of the Zaparoffztsi\
originally deserters and vagabonds from all
nations. It was from this tribe that Potemkin
selected those brave Cossacks who are now
known under the appellation of Tckemomorski^
and who inhabit Kuban Tahtary. Many of the
robbers, when taken, proved to be Polish Jews ;
and among the party which had robbed Admiral
Mwdvinofs lady, some, who were afterwards
apprehended, were Jews of this description.
The house of Admiral MordtAnofy situate among
the mountains of the Crimea^ near Sudaky was
also attacked during the time we resided at
Akmetchet ; but, as the Admiral himself assured
OS, the attack was made with no other view
than to carry off some of his poultry. The
Admiral had been engaged in frequent acts of
litigation with the Tahtars concerning the limits
of his estate ; and, as this conduct rendered
him unpopular among them, it perhaps exposed
him to depredations that he would not otherwise

(1) See p. 4, of this Volume.

32(5 BY THE ISTHMUS OF PERECOP,

CHAP, have encountered. Haying thus related a few

VIII.

N^v*^/ facts which came to our knowledge, affecting
the character of the Tahtars^ and the danger
of their country, it may he amusing to add
some examples of the stories current in
the country: these, although perhaps less
authentic, are implicitly believed by Russians^
and by other strangers; and they constitute
a common topic of conversation. The first
was related to us by a general-officer in the
Russian service ; the second we heard upon
the road.

^T&^^ The Chief of a very desperate gang of banditti^
rate Rob- ^Jjq Jj^j amasscd considerable wealth, was
taken by a soldier, and conducted to the Go-
vernor of the province at Ekatermoslaf. Great
rewards had been offered for the person of this
man ; and it was supposed he would, of course,
be immediately knouted. To the astonishment
of the soldier who had been the means of his
apprehension, a few days only had elapsed,
when he received a visit from the robber, who
had been able to bribe the Governor sufficiently
to procure his release, and, in consequence of
the bribe, had been liberated from confinement.
** You have caught me,'* said he, addressing the
soldier, " this time ; but before you set out
upon another expedition in search of me, I will

bcr.

TO NICHOLAEP. 32^

accommodate you with a pair of red boots^ for the y^.^^'
journey." With this terrible threat, he made
his escape; and no further inquiry was made
after him, on the part of the Russian police*
The undaunted soldier, finding the little confi-
dence that could be placed in his commander,
determined to take the administration of justice
mto his own hands, and once more adventured
in pursuit of the robber, whose flight had spread
terror through the country. After an under-
taking full of danger, he found him in one of the
little subterraneous huts, in the midst of the
steppes : entering this place, with loaded pistols
in his hand, ** You promised me," said he^ *^ a
pair of red boots ; I am here to be measured for
them I" With these words he discharged one
of his pistols, and, killing the robber on the
spot, returned to his quarters. The picture
this offers of the corruption prevailing among
Crovemors, and magistrates^ in Mussia, is correct.
As for the story itself, it may also be true : it
is given, as it was received, from those who
considered its veracity to be indisputable.

(1) Boots made of red leather are commonly worn in the Ukraine :
bat to give a man a pair of red boots, according to the saying of the
Tahiartf is, to cut the skin round the upper part of his legs, and then
csme St to be torn off by the feet. This species of torture the banditti
are said to practise, as an act of revenge : in the same manner, Ameri-
eaw lealp the heads of their enemies.

^g BY THB ISTHMUS OF PERECOP,

CHAP. The next anecdote relates to a circumstance
\^-s^^*0^ which happened in the road between Krc
Conduct of menchAk and JSkaterinoslqf : it affords an instance
of remarkable intrepidity in one of the FeldUgers^
or couriers of the Crown. A person of this
description was journeying from Chersan to
KremencMk, by a route much infested with
banditti. He was cautioned i^ainst taking a
particular road, on account of the numerous
robberies and murders which had lately taken
place ; and the more so, in consequence
of a report, that some robbers were actually
there encamped, plundering all who attempted
to pass. Orders had been given, that, where*
soever these banditti were found, they should
be shot without trial. The courier proceeded en
his journey in a pavoshy\ and presently he
observed four men hastily entering a tent near
to the road. Almost at the same instant, the
driver of the pavosky declared that there was
a fifth concealed in a ditch by which they
passed; but, as it was dusky, and the object
not clearly discerned, they both left the pavaskif
to examine it. To their surprise and horror,
they found the body of a man, who had been
murdered, still warm. A light appeared within

(1) A small foor-wheeled waggon; used, during summer, as a sub-
stitute for the khabitka.

VIII.

TO NICHOLASF. 329

the tent ; and the courier, desiring the postillion ^^^^^^
to remain qniet with the vehicle, walked holdly
towards it« As soon as he entered, he asked
some men whom he saw there if he might be
allowed a glass of brandy. Being answered in
the affirmative, he added, ** Stay a little : I will
just step to the pavosky, and bring something
for us to eat : you shall find the drink.'* It was
now quite dark ; and the courier y who had well
observed the number and disposition of the
men within the tent, returned to the pavosky ;
when, having armed the postillion and himself
by m^ans of a blunderbuss, two pistols, and a
sabre, he took the bleeding carcase upon his
shoulders, and advanced once more towards
the tent. The unsuspecting robbers had now
seated themselves around a fire, smoking
tobacco; their weapons being suspended above
their heads. The courier, in the very instant
that he entered, cast the dead body into the
midst of them ; exclaiming, *' There's the sort
of food for your palates I'' and, before a moment
was allowed them to recover from the surprise
into which this had thrown them, a discharge
from the blunderbuss killed two of the four;
a third received a pistol shot, with a cut from a
sabre, but survived his wounds, and was taken,
bound, to Kremenchiik, where he suffered the
burnt. The fourth made his escape. Of such

330 ®Y THE ISTHMUS OF PERECOP,

CHAP, a nature are the tales which a traveller, in this

VIII.

^s-v-*-' country, may expect to hear continually related
hy new settlers in the Crimea and in the Ukraine.
We did not give much credit to any of them ;
and must confess we should not be surprised to
hear the same stories r^)eated in other coun-
tries, as having happened where banditti are
supposed to infest the public roads.

Being unacquainted with the topography of
Bh'oslafj and having no map in which it is traced,
it is not possible to give an accurate description
of the different streams and lakes of water we
passed, in order to reach that place. The
inhabitants were even more ignorant than our-
selves of the country. Before we arrived, we
traversed an extensive tract of sand, apparently
insulated: this, we were told, was often inun-
dated ; and boats were then stationed to
conduct travellers. Having crossed this sandy
district, we passed the Dnieper by a ferry, and
ascended its steep banks on the western side
Caravans, to the town. The conveyance of caravans,
upon the sands, was effected with great diffi-
culty ; each waggon requiring no less a number
of oxen than eight or twelve; and even these
seemed hardly adequate to the immense labour
of the draft All the way from Perecap to
Biroslaf, the line of caravans continued almost

TO NICHOLAEP. 331

without intermission. The immense concourse chap.

VIU,

of waggons ; the bellowing of the oxen ; the ..^^y^
bawling and grotesque appearance of the drivers ;
the crowd of persons in the habits of many dif-
ferent nations, waiting a passage across the
water ; offered altogether one of those singular
scenes, to which, in other countries, there is
nothing similar.

Biroslafi upon the western side of the Dnieper^ mrotUtf.
is a miserable looking place, owing its support
entirely in the passage of salt caravans from
the Orimea\ It situation, upon so considerable
a river, affording it an intercourse with Kiof^ and

(1 ) " BerisIaT is a small town, founded, on a regular plan, by the
Empress Catherine, on a fine sloping bank near the Dnieper, with a
floating bridge, which is removed every winter. The river, like the Don,
is navigated in double canoes, {See the Vignette to Chap, Xlll. of the
former wjiume^ composed of two very narrow ones, often hollowed oat
of trees and tmited by a stage. The town has wide streets, at right
angles to each other ; but the houses are, mostly, miserable wooden
hats. The country around is all good land, but destitute of water : there
are, however, many rillages, and many acres of cultivated land along tho
banks of the river ; and wherever there is a well, is generally a small *
cluster of houses, attracted by such a treasure. On this side of the
Dnieper begins the regular series of Jews' houses, which are the only
tafems or inns from hence all the way into Austria. Jews, in every
part of Little and New Russia, abound. In Muscovy they are very
VMommon." Heber'e MS. Journal.

(9) The author will take this opportunity of introducing the notice
of a very curious discovery made between Kiofvjk^ KremenefUik, as it
WM communicated to him by Mons. 7Vvnara,the Russian Ambassador
at Constantinople ; adding only, that the arrow-headi mentioned by
Mons. Tanuara, many of which are now in the author's possession, have
been analyzed by \V. H. Wollatton, Esq. M.D. Secretary of the Royal

Society^

VIII.

389 BY THB ISTHMUS OP PBRECOP,

^vnf ' ChenoUf might entitle it to higher consideration.
We observed the PoHsk Costume verj prevalent
here ; the men, in every respect, resembling
Cossacks of the Dan. To describe die journey
between Biraslaf^ and Chersan^ would put the
Reader's patience to a very unnecessary trial,
by the repetition of observations, already, per-
haps, too often made; and it would give to these
pages the monophanous character of the steppes^
over which the journey was made. Before we
reached the last post, we passed a considerable

8oei€tp, and found bj that celebrated ehemitt to ooatain the nsoal
eonttitaents otaniUnt branzs; namely, in the analysis of one handled
parts of this bronze, 88 parts of copPBB, and 12 parts of tin. These
are Mods. Tanuart^s words : ** Entre les yilles de Kiow et Kremenehuk^
aupr^dela petite ville nomm^e^^ovmn, situ6esarlesbordsdei>iiis|Mr,
dans une plaine tr^s-^tendne et sablonense, on trouve en assec grand*
quantity des pointes de fldcheS| dont la mati^re est de cuiTre eztrftme-
ment rafln6, et les formes varices. II n'y en a pas dans le nomhrede
celles qui ressemble aux pointes de fleches anciennes ou modemet. La
quantity de ces pointes est si grande sur cette plaine, que lea hahitans
qui ont la fabrication des eaox-de-vie libre, les remassent poor racoom-
moder leur alemtiiqaes, et qui, poor quelque petite monoies, des petits
gar^oDs en ramassent toujours poar des voyageors. Les pointes devraient
6tre de la plus grande antiquity, et le m6tal est si rafln6 qa*il n'y a pas
de I'oxide. Cbaque fois que le vent a balay4 cette plaine, ces pointes
se montrent et c'est le terns de les ramasser.'*

(1) At Birotlc^f we collected the following plants :— Common Cha-
momile, AchUlea nobilis ; Hoary Wormwood, Artemina pontica ; Loog-
fiowered Squinancy-wort (Waldstein), Atperuia long^flora; Whlte-
flowcred Scabious, Scabiota leueantha ; Scull-cap, Scutellaria ^erjcv-
lata; Italian Hedge-mustard, Sitymbrium Columnm; Hair-like Feather-
gi-ass. Stipa capUlata ; Silvery Goose-grass, Fotentilla argeniea ; Com-
mon Bugloss, AncAuM qffidnalU; Branching Knapweed, CentoMrta
pankuUUa.

TO NICHOLAEF. 333

surface of stagnant water ; but whether derived chap.
fipom the Ihneper or not, we could not then s^v^^
learn ; neither could any of our maps inform us.
The very sight of such a pool was sufficient to
convince us of the dangerous nature of our
situation; and our servant was attacked by a
violent fever, in consequence of the unwhole-
some air. We were, perhaps, protected by
smoking : but even this practice will ;iot always
act as a preventive.

Chersofiy founded in 1778, was formerly a ^^*«>'*^-
town of much more importance than it is now^.

(3) '' Chenon is gradaally sinking into decay, fWmithe unhealthiness
oflts situation, and still more from the preference given to Odessa. Yet
timber, com, hemp, and other articles of exportation, are so much cheaper
and more plentiful here, that many foreign vessels PtQl prefer this port>
though they are obliged by Government first to perform quarantine, and
onkMd thair cargoes at Odessa. Com is cheap and plentiful, but timber
much dearer than in the north, as the cataracts of the Dnieper generally
jmpede its being floated down. There is a noble forest which wc saw in
Podolia, not £Eur firom the Bog, a beautiful river, unincumbered by cataracts ;
bat as some land-carriage would be necessary, it is as yet almost '* intaeta
jeeKri." The Arsenal at Cherson is extensive and interesting : it contains
a monument to Potemkin,it8 founder. Two firigates and a seventy-four
were building : on account of the Bar, they are floated down to the Liman
on camels, as at Petersburg. Nothing can be more dreary than the pro-
•peet of the river; which forms many streams, flowing through marshy
isUnds, where the masts of vessels are seen rising from amid brush-wood
and tall reeds. In these blands are numy wild-boars, which are often
seen swimming from one to the other. No forei^ merchants of any con-
sequence remain here: those who transact business at this i»ort, do it by
clerks and supercargoes. My information respecting Clierson was chiefly

from

334

CHERSON.

VIII.

CHAP. Potemkin bestowed upon it many instances of
patronage, and was partial to the place. Its
fortress and arsenal were erected by bim. We
found its commerce to be so completely anni-
hilated, that its merchants were either bankrupt,
or they were preparing to leave the town, and
to establish themselves elsewere. They com-
plained of being abandoned by the Emperor,
who refused to grant them any support or pri-
vilege. But it cannot be admitted that Cherson^
by any grant of the Crown, would ever become
a great commercial establishment ; and it is
strange that such a notion was ever adopted'.

from a Scotchman named Geddcs. The Tomb of Howard is in the
desert, about a mile from the town : it was built by Admiral MordTin«ify
and is a small brickpyramid, white-washed, but without any inscription.
{See ike Vignette to this Chnpter). He himself fixed on the spot of his
interment. He had built a small hut on this part of the tteppe, wliere
ho passed much of his time, as the most healthy spot in the neighbooriiood.
The English burial-service was read over him by Admiral Priestman,
from whom I had these particulars. Two small villas have been built at
no great distance ; I suppose also from the healthiness of the aitnation,
as it had nothing else to recommend it. Howard was spoken of with
exceeding respect and affection, by all who remembered or knew him ;
and they were many." Heber't MS, Journal.

(1) Sc^^er'tf promising view of its importance might hare led to other
hopes ; but this author's prognostication of the advantages Sauria m%ht
derive from the possession of the Crimea has proved fiiUibie. BpeaUflf
however, of the commerce of Cherton in 1786, he aayty " JkPtM U wri Jr
Vannke 1786, ta namgati4)n oeeupoU cent irmU0-^m biHmtmj
quatre-vingt-douze Ottomam, iremie-deux Suit$$f§i 9^
Uitnportation contiitoit enJruUij viiis, eahdJkmf WiwWw, fOm
portation,enfromeni, savon, ehanvrtjfarimtffgr^
fabaCf bois,** &c. Histoire Ralsonn^ du Conuii. dftlijp
torn. 11. p. 33. Pam, 1788.

CHERSOX. jg^

The mouth of the Dnieper is extremely difficult ^ chap.
to navigate: sometimes, the north-east wind
leaves it full of shallows ; and, where there
happens at any time to be a channel for vessels,
it has not a greater depth of water than five
feet ; the entrance being at the same time
excessively narrow. The sands are continually
shifting : this renders the place so dangerous,
that ships are rarely seen in the harbour. But
the last blow to the commerce of Cherson was
given by the war of Russia with France. Before
this event took place, the exportation of com, of
hemp, and of canvas, had placed the town upon
a scale of some consideration. All the ports of
Russia in the Black Sea were more or less
afiected by the same cause; and particularly
Taganrog J which place received a serious check
in consequence of the state of affairs with
France^.

The style of architecture visible in the build-
ings of the fortress displayed a good taste :

(9) Upon and near the bankB of the Dnieper were the followiug plants :
Moantain Aljwton, Alyaum montanum; Common BogloM, Anehitsa
qgieimaHe; Beard- gran, Andrqpogon lecheemum; Broom-leaved Snap-
dngon, itii#irriUfiicM» Oetdttifoiium; Dotted St^rwrarif Aster punctalu*
(HeWIDdaiiow); Bnmcbing Campkm, Cueubalue Caiholieue ; Branching
Iagka|im, DeJphMum cotuMda; Field Spuiige, Euphorbia eegetalit;
Wbamry BHptai, PAyfcmnacanMesiM, with lufgt poiple flowers ; it was

tfaivodaBnrfherim(Me VUdiMi); Beny-bearing

MHCyVra*

S36 CHERSoir.

CHAP, the stone used for their constmction resembled

vui. ,

"-^vw that porou8» though durable limestone, which
the first Grecian colonies ' in Italy employed in
erecting the temples of Pcdstum : but the RmssiaM
had white- washed every things and by that
means had given to their works the meanness of
plaster. One of the first things we asked to
see, was the tomb of Potemkin. All . £urope
has heard that he was buried in Chenon ; and a
magnificent sepulchre might naturally be ex-
pected for a person so renowned. The reader
will imagine our surprise^ when, in answer to
our inquiries concerning his remains, we were
told that no one knew what was become t)f them.
Potemkin^ the illustrious,, the powerful, of all the
princes that ever lived the most princely ; of all
Imperial favourites, the most favoured ; had not
a spot which might be called his grave. He,
who not only governed all Russia^ but even made
the haughty Catherine his suppliant, had not
the distinction possessed by the humblest of the
human race. The particulars respecting the
ultimate disposal of his body, as they were com-
municated to us upon the spot, on the most cre-
dible testimony, merit a cursory detaiL

Burial of The corpsc, soon after his deaths was brought

Potemkin, ^

(1) Potemkm died October 15, 1791, aged 52, daring ajoimay
firom YoMty to Kieholaqff and actually expired tti a dUekf near to

the

CHERSON.

SS7

to Chenouj and placed beneath the dome of a chap.
small church belonging to the fortress, opposite
to the altar. After the usual ceremony of inter-
ment, the Tault was coTered, merely by restoring
to their former situation the planks of wood
belonging to the floor of the building. Many
inhabitants of CffiersoUf as well as English officers
in the Hussion service, who resided in the neigh-
bourhood, had seen the coffin : this was extremely
ordinary, but the practice of shewing it to
strangers prevailed for some years after Potem-
Un^s decease. TEe Empress Catherine either
had, or pretended to have, an intention of erecting
a superb monument to his memory: whether
at Chersan or elsewhere, is unknown. Her
sadden death is believed to have prevented the
completion of this design. The most extra-
ordinary part of the story remains now to be
related: the coffin itself has disappeared.
Instead of any answer to the various inquiries
we made concerning it, we were cautioned to
be silent. ^' No (me^^ said an English Gentleman
residing in the place, '* dares to mention the name
of Potemhm.'' At length we received intelligence
that the Verger could satisfy our curiosity, if we
would venture to ask him. We soon found the

the fiormer pitce, in which the attendants liad placed hfan, that
he ml^it recline against its sloping side; being taken from the
cafflage for air.

338 CHERSON.

^^iil' means of encouraging a little communication on
^■^^^^^ his part; and were then told, that the body,
by the Emperor Paul's command, had been
taken up, and thrown into the ditch of the
Recent di»- fortrcss. The orders received were, "to take
body. up the body of Potemfdrty and to cast it into the
first hole that might be found." These orders
were implicitly obeyed. A hole was dug in the
fosse, into which his remains were thrown, with
as little ceremony as if they had been those of
a dead dog ; but this procedure taking place
during the night, very few were informed of the
disposal of the body. An eye-witness of the
fact assured me that the coffin no longer existed
in the vault where it was originally placed ; and
the Verger was actually proceeding to point out
the place where the body was abandoned, when
the Bishop himself happening to arrive, took
away my guide, and, with menaces but too
likely to be fulfilled, prevented our being more
fully informed concemmg the obloquy now
involving the relics of Potemkin.

Let us therefore direct the Reader's attention
to a more interesting subject — to a narrative of
the last days, the death, and burial, of the
benevolent Howard ; who, with a character
forcibly opposed to that of PotemAin, also termi-
nated a glorious career at Cherson. Mysterious

KBLSi CHBR80N. 339

Providence, by events always remote from chap.
human foresight, had wonderfully destined that v^v^^
these two men, celebrated in their lives hy the
most opposite qualifications, should be interred
nearly upon the same spot. It is not within the
reach of possibility to bring together, side by
side, two individuals more remarkably distin-
guished in their deeds ; as if the hand of Destiny
had directed two persons, in whom were exem-
plified the extremes of Vice and Virtue, to one
common spot, in order that the contrast might
remain as a lesson for mankind: PotemAirij
bloated and pampered hy every vice, after a
path through life stained with hlood and crimes,
at last the victim of his own selfish excesses:
ffowardf a voluntary exile, enduring the severest
privations for the benefit of his fellow-creatures,
and labouring, even to his latest breath, in the
exercise of every social virtue.

The particulars of Mr. HawarcPB death were Particn-
oommunicated to us by his two friends. Admiral Death of
Mordvinoft then Chiefi Admiral of the Black Sea ^*"*^*
fleet, and Admiral Priestman, an Mnglish officer
in the Russian service } both of whom had borne
testimony to his last moments. He had been
entreated to visit a lady about twenty-four miles
from Cherson^. who was danfirerouslv iU. Mr.

(1) Thirty-flTe MTfte.
▼OL. II. Z

VIll.

340 CHERSON.

CHAP. Howard objected, alleging that he acted only as
physician to the poor ; but, hearing of her immi-
nent danger, he afterwards yielded to the
persuasion of Admiral Mordvinofj and went to
see her. After having prescribed for this lady,
he returned ; leaving directions with her family, to
send for him agsdn if she got better ; but adding,
that if, as he much feared, she should prove worse,
it would be to no purpose. Sometime after his
return to Chersouj a letter arrived, stating that the
lady was better, and begging that he would cmne
without loss of time. When he examined the
date, he perceived that the letter, by some
unaccountable delay, had been eight days in
getting to his hands. Upon this, he resolved to
go with all possible expedition. The weaiher
was extremely tempestuous, and very cold, it
being late in the year j and the rain fell in torrentB.
In his impatience to set out, a conveyance not
being immediately ready, he mounted an old
dray-horse, used in Admiral Mordmnops family
to convey water, and thus proceeded to visit his
patient. Upon his arrival, he found the lady
dying : this, added to the fatigue of the journey,
affected hin so much, that it brought on a fever :
his clothes, at the same time, had been wet
through. But he attributed his fever entirely to
another cause. Having administered something
to his patient to excite perspiration, as soon

CHERSON. 341

as the symptoms of it appeared, he put his chap.
hand beneath the bed-clothes, to feel her
pulse, that she might not be chilled by his re-
moYing them ; and he believed that her fever was
thus communicated to him. After this painful
journey, Mr. Howard returned to Cherson^ and
the lady died.

It had been ahnost his daily custom, at a
certain hour, to visit Admiral Priestman ; when,
with his usual attention to regularity, he would
place his watch upon the table, and pass
exactly an hour with him in conversation. The
Admiral, observing that he failed in his usual
visits, went to see him, and found him weak
and illy sitting before a stove in his bed-room.
Having inquired after his health, Mr. Howard
rqiliedy that his end was approaching very fast ;
that he had several things to say to his friend ;
and ihanked him for having called. The
Admiral, finding him in such a melancholy mood,
endeavoured to turn the conversation, imagining
the whole might be the effect of his low spirits ;
hot Mr. Howard soon assured him it was other-
wise ; and added, ** Priestman^ you style this a
very dull conversation, and endeavour to divert
my mind from dwelling upon death : but I en-
tertain very different sentiments. Death has
no terrors for me : it is an event I always look

VIII.

342 CHBRSON.

^^n^' to with cheerfulness, if not with pleasure ; and
be assured, the subject of it is to me more
grateful than any other. I am well aware that
I have but a short time to live; my mode of
life has rendered it impossible that I should
recover from this fever. If I had lived as you
do, eating heartily of animal food, and drinking
wine, I might, perhaps, by altering my diet, be
able to subdue it But how can such an invalid
as I am lower his diet ? I have been accustomed,
for years, to exist upon vegetables and water ;
a little bread, and a little tea. I have no method
of lowering my nourishment, and consequently
I must die. It is such jolly fellows as ymi,
Priestmafif who get over these fevers I*' Then,
turning the subject, he spoke of his funeral;
and cheerfully gave directions concerning the
manner of his buriaL " There is a spot,** said
he, " near the village of JDaupMgny : this would
suit me nicely : you know it well, for I have
often said that I should like to be buried there ;
and let me beg of you, as you value your old
friend, not to suffer any pomp to be used at my
funeral ; nor any monument, nor monumental
inscription whatsoever, to mark where I am
laid : but lay me quietly in the earth, place a
sun-dial over my grave, and let me be forgotten."
Having given these directions, he was very
earnest in soliciting that Admiral Priestman

VIII.

CHBRSON. 343

would lose no time in securing the object of chap.
his wishes; but go immediately, and settle
with the owner of the land for the place of his
interment, and prepare every thing for his burial.

The Admiral left him upon his melancholy
errand ; fearing at the same time, as he himself
informed us, that the people would believe him
to be crazy, in soliciting a burying-ground for a
man then Uving, and whom no person yet knew
to be indisposed. However, he accomplished
Mr. Hoioard^s wishes, and returned to him with
the intelligence : at this, his countenance bright-
ened, a gleam of evident satisfaction came over
his face, and he prepared to go to bed. Soon after-
wards he made his will ; leaving as his executor
a trusty follower, who had lived with him more
in the capacity of a friend than of a servant, and
whom he charged with the commission of bearing
his will to England. It was not until after he
had finished this will, that any symptoms of
delirium appearedi Admiral Priestman, who had
left him for a short time, returned and found
him sitting up in his bed, adding what he
believed to be a codicil to his will ; but it
consisted of several unconnected words, the
chief part being illegible, and the whole
without any meaning. This strange composi-
tion he desired Admiral Priestnian to witness

VIII.

344 CHBB80N.

CHAP, and to sign ; and, in order to please him, the
Admiral consented ; but wrote his name, as he
bluntly said, in Russian characters, lest any of
his friends in England^ reading his signatiiro
to such a codicil, should think he was also
delirious. After Mr. Howard had made what
he conceived to be an addition, to his will, he
became more composed. A letter was brought
to him from JEngland^ oontaining intelligenoe <tf
the improved state of his son's health : . stating
the nature of his occupations in the coimtiry,
and giving reason to hope that he would Kcovor
from the disorder with which he was afflicted^
His servant read this letter aloud: and, when
he had concluded, Mr. Hovmrd turned his head
towards him, saying, '^ Is not this comfort for a
dying father ?" He expressed great repugnance
against being buried according to the rites of
the Chreek Church ; and begging Admiral Priest-
man to prevent any interference on the part of
the JRussian priests, made him also promise,
that he would read the Service of the Churdi
of England over his grave, and bury him in all
respects according to the forms of his country.
Soon after this last request, he ceased to speaL
Admiral Mordvinofcsme in, and found him dying

( 1) Mr. JIowartCB sod laboured under an aHack of insanitj.

CHERSON.

345

VIII.

very £sbBt. They had in vain besought him to CHfP-
allow a physician to be sent for; but Admiral
Mtn'tiomof renemng this solicitation with great
earnestness, Mr. Howard assented, by nodding
his head. The physician came, but was too late
to be of any service. A rattling in the throat
had commenced: the physician administered
what is called the musk draught, a medicine
used only in Mussiay in the last extremity. It
was given to the patient by Admiral Mordmnof^
who prevailed with him to swallow a little;
but he endeavoured to avoid the rest, and gave
evident signs of disapprobation. He was then
entirely given over ; and shortly after breathed
his last.

Mr. Howard had always refused to allow any
portrait of himself to be made ; but after
his death. Admiral Mordoinof caused a plaster
mould to be formed upon his face : this was
sent to Mr. Whitbread. A cast from the same
mould was in the Admiral's possession when we
were in Chersorij presenting a very striking
resemblance of his features.

He was buried near the village of Dauphigny^
about five versts from Cherson^ by the road to
Nicholaef, in the spot he had himself chosen ;
and his friend. Admiral Priestman, read the

S^ cfiBssoir.

CHAP. English Burial-service, according to his desire.
"^^^t^^ The rest of his wishes were not exactly fulfilled :
the concourse of spectators was immense, and
the order of his funeral was more magnificent
than would have met with his approbation. It
was as follows :

1.
Order of * The Bodvp

his Fane- ^^

ral. on a Bier, drawn by Six Hofms with trappings.

8.
The Prxitcb of Holdatia,
in a tomptuons Carriage, drawn by Six HorseSy covered with

ecarietdoth.

8.
Admiral! Hordtinop and FBinmuxVp in a Ctorkge diswn by

Six Horses.

The Gbvbrals and Stavv-Ovpxcbxs of the Gairisoo,

in their respecti?e Carriages.

&
The MAGI8TRATB8 and Mbbchantb •fCHBB80V,in their vespecttfe

Carriages.

6.
A large Party of Ca?aky.

7.
other Perlons on Horseback.

An immense Concourse of Spectators on Foot, amounting

to Two or Three Thousand.

'^mb of A monument was afterwards erected over him :
this, instead of the sun-dial he had requested.

CHEB80N. 547

consisted of a brick pyramid or obelisk, sur* chap.
rounded by stone posts with chains. The
posts and chains began to disappear before
our arrival; and when Mr. Heher made the
sketch from which the Vignette to this Chapter
was engraven, not a vestige of them was to be
seen ; the obelisk alone remained, in the midst
of a bleak and desolate plain, where dogs
were gnawing the bones of a dead horse,
whose putrifying carcase added to the revolting
horror of the scene. A circumstance came
to our knowledge before we left Mussia^ con-
cerning HawartTs remains, which it is painful
to relate ; namely, that Count Vincent Potochi\
a Polish nobleman of the highest taste and
talents, whose magnificent library and museum
would do honour to any country, through a
ndstaken design of testifying his respect for the
memory of Howard^ had signified his intention of
taking up the body, that it might be conveyed
to his country-seat, where a sumptuous monu-
ment has been prepared for its reception, upon
a small island in the midst of a lake. His
Countess, being a romantic lady, wishes to have
an annual y^fe, consecrated to Benevolence; at
this the nymphs of the country are to attend.

(1) Pi-oiiounced Polatky.

348 CHERSON.

CHAP, and to strew the place with flowers. This
design is so contrary to the earnest request of
Mr. Howard^ and at the same time such a
violation of the dignity due to his remains^ that
every friend to Wb memory wffl join in wishing
it may never he fulfilled. Count Potocfd was
absent during the time we remained in that
part of the worlds or we should have ventured
to remonstrate : we could only therefore entrust
our petitions to a third person, who promised
to convey them to him after our departure.

The distance from Ckersonto Nicholaefis only
sixty-two versts, or rather more than fortyndne
miles. At the distance of five versts from the
former place, the road passes close to the
Tomb of Howard. It may be supposed we did
not halt with indifference to view the hallowed
spot. '<To abstract the mind from all local
emotion, would be impossible if it were endea-
voured, and it would be foolish if it were
possible. Whatever withdraws us from the
power of our senses ; whatever makes the past,
the distant, or the future, predominate over the
present ; advances us in the dignity of thinking
beings. Far be from ine, and from my friends,
that frigid philosophy which might conduct us
indifferent or unmoved over any ground that
has been dignified by wisdom^ bravery, or

KICHOLABF. 3^9

virtue.'* So spake the Sage, in words never to chap.
be forgotten : unenvied be the man who has not
felt their force ; lamented he who does not
know their author !

The town of Nickolaeff covering a great Niooiatf.
extent of territory, with numerous buildings,
intersected by wide streets, makes a splendid
and very considerable appearance^ The whole
of it is of recent date. The river Bog flows
quite round the place, in a broad and ample
channel. Ships of the line cannot approach the
buildings, owing to a sand-bank ; but brigs and
other smaU vessels are carried over by means
of the floating machines called camels, in use at
Petersburg and many other parts of Russia. The
arsenals, store-houses, and other works, are so
extensive, that it is evident great efforts have
been made to render this a place of high
importance to the Russian navy. The Admiral-*
in*chief of the Black Sea, as well as the Vice*

(1) '* Nicholaeffy on the Bog, is a riting town, veiy advantageoiiBly
situated : being without the Bar of the Dnieper, it is the station for
▼essels when bnilt ; and here they are laid up to be repaired, Nothing
I should think, but the expense of new dock-yards inducer Government
to persevere in their system of building vessels at Chcrson, when this
neighbouring town has so many superior advantages. It has a fine
river, without either bar or cataract ; deep, still water, and an
healthy situation. Vessels, however, are said to decay sooner than at
Sebastopole." Heber't MS. Jourmd.

VIII.

350 IriCHOLAB^

^SJiF' Admirals, reside here; and an office is esta-
blished for regulating all marilie affiedfii belonging
to the three ports, Chersan, Odessa, BXid Nicholaef.
The public buildings and palaces of the Admirals
are very stately ; and* considering the short
time that has elapsed since Nicholaef was a
miserable village, the progress made in the
place is surprising. There is no town to
compare with it in all the South of Mussia;
nor any in the empire, excepting Moscow and
Petersburg. Its elevated situation; the magni-
ficence of its river ; the regularity that has been
observed in laying out the streets, and their
extraordinary breadth; the number of the
public works, and the flourishing state of its
population ; place it very high in the small
catalogue of JRussian towns. English officers,
and English engineers, with other foreigners in
the Mtissian service, residing here, have intro-
duced habits of urbanity and cleanliness ; and
have served to correct, by the force of example,
the barbarism of the native inhabitants.

FBOX niCaOLAEF TO ODSSBA.

I of Olbiopolis — IitscriptioTis— Medals —
Admiral Priestman — Mineralized Sfiells — Ob-
serBotiona upon the Odessa Limestone — CoTise-
^L quences which resulted from the Opening of the
^K Thracian Bosporus — Conduct of the Emperor
" respecting Odessa — Number of discarded Offi-
cers— Usurious Practices of the Sovereign — Fur-
I tber Account of Odessa — Account of the passage
^B btf Land to Constantinople — Prepara^on
^^for sailing from Odessa.

OOME interesting antiquities have been found

in the neighbourhood of Nicholaef To the south '

f the town, near to the fall of the Bog into the

IX.

QgQ FROM NICHOLAEF,

CHAP. Dnieper^ there stood, not long ago, a fortress,
which the traditions of the country ascribed to
AkxoMder the Cheat. The Emperor Paul gave
orders for its destruction; and the joyful
JRussianSf prompt for works of this kind, speedily
removed every trace of its existence. Not bi
from the same place,- exactly at the junction of
the two riverSy about twelve miles from Nicholaef^
are the remains of OWiopolis, the only Greek city
belonging to European Sarmatia of which there
are antient medals extant\ The Russians have
there discovered not only medals, but also bas-
reliefs, inscriptions, amphorsB, tombs, and other
indications of the site of that city. A view of
those Ruins might have afforded us the highest
gratification, but the circumstances of our situa-
tion would not admit the necessary delay ; our
liberty, if not our lives, depended upon making
the best use of the time allowed for effecting
our escape. We were well aware, that if
any intelligence of our intention should reach
Petersburg, all hope of quitting Russia would be
annihilated. In the church of Ntcholaeff a stone
is preserved, brought from Olbiopolis, with the
following inscription*; recording the dedication

(1) See the Vignette to this Chapter.

(2) The length of the stone is two feet; its breadth at the top,
where the inscription begins, nine inches, and twdfe incbei aft the
bottom.

TO ODESSA.

359

of a golden image of Victory to Apollo the Pro- chap.
tector, offered by the officers whose names are v^v^
specified, in behalf, of the city and of their own
safety*:

APAGHITYXHI ,^p«o„.

AnOAAllNI

nPOZTATHIOI

nEPinAniAN

HPASIANAKTOZ

ZTPATHrOlnPO

SENOZZnMA

XOYAN0OZKAA

AIZGENOYZABPA

TOZAHMHTPIOY

EYHAOYZZfiMA

XOYA^ATOZniAEI . .

ANE0HKANNEIKHN

XPYZEONYnEPTHXnOAE

nZKAITHZEAYTXlNYrEIAZEni

TOIZAYTOIZERE

AYTOYNAOY

OPOY

(3) The meaning of t2ie word frpomdrfi^, and irpoirraaiap in the fol-
lowing inicriptiont, will be obvious from these passages of Philo, (De
Prcan, ei Pom.) Moses is called, *0 roS iOvov^ liri/ifX^n); ca2 wpo-
vr^rqct Of Joseph it is said, T^c idyinrrov ri}y iirifuXc^v Kal «rpo-
^ToaUuf Xo/Si^. 2>« Jotefho. The word is also applied to the Deity,
aa Boler and Director of the Uniferse, in this passage: 'Zkn-fip^ iitOv'
v^vra rb ohuiov ipyov, kwiitkXuav re coi wpwrraaiav Kai rwv iv airif
litpAv, tffawip Stlat iwaX%a fpovrUog wowitfitpoy.

IX.

j)54 ™^^ NICHOLABF,

CHAP. Other inscriptions have been found at Olbicpotis:
some of these remarkably correspond with the
preceding. The kindness of the Rev. Robert
Walpolct M.A. of Trinity College^ Cambridge^
who lately returned from his travels in Greece\
has enabled the author to make an interesting
addition to those which he copied at Nicholaef.
During Mn Walpol^s residence at AthenSf he
obtained four Olbiopolitan inscriptions^ that were
preserved by M. Fauvelt a celebrated French
artist and antiquary : these he has liberally con-
tributed, together with the illustration which the
Reader will here find accompanying them.

In the first, a similar dedication of a statue of
Victory is recorded ; with this difference, that
the imoffe was of silver.

ArAGHITYXHI

AnOAAIlNinPOZ

TATHIOinEPIAHMH

TPIONRPASIANAKTOZ

ZTPATHrOIAAOYGATOZ

ANTEPnXOZAIAIOZ

NAYTEIAAOYAPIZTO

NIKOZAIONYZIOYO

KAIBAZIAEYZ

(1) Mr. WalpoU is already known to the PnbUc, as the leaned
Editor of Comicorum Orieeorum, Fragmenta, and as the anther of the
Essays bearing his name in the Hereulanentia, which were pablishcd
jointly with those of Sir W, Drummand, &c. Ltmd. 4to. 1610.

TO ODESSA. ^g

CHAP.

IX.

ANEOH

KANNEIKHNAPrYPAN
VnEPTHZnOAEnZKAITHZE
AYTIlNYrElAX
AOYKIOZAOYKfOY

In the next, the mage was of gold, as in the
scription found in the church of Nicholaef,

AFAGHITYXHI .

AnOAAHNinPOZ

TATHIOIREPI

n PAZI ANAKTOZZTPA

TH rOIAZKAHniAAHZ

nOZIAHOY

0PAZIAAHOZ0PA

ZIBOYAOY

MOYAIOYPrOZ
nOZIAHOYANE
0HKANNEIKHNXPY
ZEONZYNBAZI . . .

YREP

THZnOAEfiZKAl
THZEAYTilN
YFEIAZ

VOL. II. S2 A

IX.

356 FROM NICHOLABF,

CHAP, The three foregoing inscriptions record the
consecration of golden or silver images of Victory^
in the Temple of Apollo^ at OUnopolis^ dedicated
to that God. A fourth, still more interesting^,
serves to render conspicuous the prodigious
importance annexed to the commerce of the
£luxine hy the citizens of ByzantiuvL; the
senate^ people,, and m^igistrates decree^ that
a golden statue of Orontes, the son c^ Ahahut^
should he placed in the Curiaf and that a copy
of the decree should be sent hy letter to the
magistrates of OlbiopoUsf to shew them in what
estimation he is held hy the Byzantines. He is
also made a citizen of Byzantium; and this
privilege is granted to his descendants. OronteSf
as well as his father, who was Grovemor of
some part of the co^t of the JEvjcine, had
received hospitably, and encouraged, and
bestowed many benefits upon, the Byzantines^
who frequented that sea for commercial pur-
poses.

(1) During the printing of these pageo, the author discorered that
this inscription had been already published by Dr. Chandler, in the
Appendix to his IrueripiumeM AntiqtuB, p. 9. But as the copy afforded
by the learned Editor differs in aone material pointa fiom that pro-
cured by Mr. Walpole, a republication haa been deemed expedient,
wherein the various readings are noticed.

TO ODESSA. 35y

OAAMOZOBYZANTinN

EAOSETABOYAAKAITnAAMnTOIZTPATArOIEI

nANEHEIOPdNTAZOABIOnOAEITAZABABOY

YIOZANAPOZOYMONONTAinATPIAOZAAAAKAl

ZYNnANTOZTOYnONTIKOYnPATIZTEYZANTOZ

EG N EOZKAI MEXPITAZmNZEBArrfiN rNH

ZEnznPO ANTOZnOAAAAEKAIBYZAN

TlftNnOAEIKATATETAZAAMOZIAZXPHAZKAl

TON EIZTOEN n OPION n AEONTON n POZTA

ZIAZrENOMENOYft*EAIMOYKAIAYTOZnZ

nEPTAAOIAnTOYnATPOZAYTOYTANnOTITON

AAMONEYNOlANKAinPOSENIANAIAAESA

MENOZYnonANTONMENMAPTYPEITAITON

ElZn AEONTON EIZTON nONTONnOAEITAN

EnitlAANOPAniAIKAIEYNOIAIKAinAPA

rENOMENOZAEEIZTANPOAINZEMNnZMEN

PPOEZTATAZEPIAAMIAZnPOZTPES'ATO

AEEIZnAHONAZEAPIAAZTONTEAAMONKAl

NOTES.

UoeS. SrfNirqyoi signifles sometimes Archons; very often Piwton.
SpamMm 4e P. et Uu Num. Antiq.

L 9. tlfoaToaia, In the Inserip. Berenlc. we hare Eixpi'^'"' "'P'^
vraviay wotoifuvot, benecoUtm euram imprndeni. — In Oruter,
p> 140, 'AfKipae irpoarartic is Anegree prtBiei.

L 10. In this line Dr. Chandler't Copy gives OYTOS for AYTOS.

L 14. TOnON is inserted for nONTON in Chandler's Copy.

1. IS. Uapaytvifuvoc. The word occors very freqaeatly in inscrlp-
ttoas. In the Inserip. Berenic. we read llapayiviiOtis (I'c r^v
iirapx(^>'> provineiam ingre$su$. In tlie Laccdasmonian decree
concerning Timothcns, it is Ilapyt/tevop.

2 A 2 I^c24.

QKQ FROM NICHOLAEP,

TOYZIAinTAZAAEnOAIZAIATETAZEIZEAY

TAN EYEPFEZIAZKAI AIATOTOYAN APOZKAI

TXlNnPOrONnNAZinMAEniTAAHONHrHZA

TOM HAZAM HnTON AYTOYTANnAPOYZIANAtE

M EN OTEA AMOZEN EKE A EYZATOTOIZZTPA

TArOIZTEIMAZAITONANAPAAIAAHAEAO

XSAIEnAINHZOAIMENOPONTANABABOY .

OABIOnOAEITANEniTAIAIANEKEinOTITON

AAMONKAIAIAnPOrONANnPONOIANEIMENAE

AYTONKAinOAEITANKAITOYZEKrONOYZAY

TOYKAinOTirPA<t>HMENnO0ANKAOEAHTAN

ekatoztyhnteo h m en aeaytoykai ei ko

NAEniXPYZONENTniBOYAEYTHPiniEN

TOnmnMHAAAOZEXEIKAIEnirPA^ANEni

rPAi'AITANnPO^EZ.HAnMENANAIAnEM^AA

Z0AIAEKAIT04'A*IZMAT0YT0^IEniZT0

AAZTOIZOABIOnOAEITANAPXOYZININAKAIA

nATPIZAYTOYTAZBYZANTIflNEYNOIAZHPOZ

TONANAPAKAITEIMAZAIZ0HTAI

NOTES.

Line 24. AiSox^ai. The common formula : as Ac^^x^at SavHiMv rote
xStrfioiQ Kai rf ttoXci liraiviaai rot); irpciycvr^C* ChinhnlK
Ant. As. 116. The imperaiiye is sometimes used, when it
begins a sentence ; as in Lacian, In Dearum Come. At66x^
ry fiovXy Kai rif Sfifiif : and in Demosthenes, J>e Car, c S7.
when the infinitive is used, it depends on tWtv, as in this
inscription,

1. 27. nPONOlA, in Chandler's Copy, for DPONOIAN.

1. 29. nOTirPA*HNAI, in Chandler, for nOTIFPA^HMBK.

1. 30. TEOHNAI, in Chandler, for TEOHMEN.

TO ODESSA. 359

A fifth inscription mentions the erection of a ^^^^•
portico hy Ababiis, at his own expense ; it is of
the time of Tiberius : the preceding one, there-
fore, may he of the same age.

AYTOKPATOPIKAIZAPieEnieZOYYiniXE
BArmiAPXIEPEIMEriZTfllPATPIPATPIAOZ

KAIAYTOKPATOPIZEBAZTniOEOYYiniTI
BEPiniKAIZAPIKAITniAHMniABABOZ
KAAAIZ0ENOY£EKTnMIAinNANEOH
KETHNZTOAN

The sixth, as well as the first, is still remaining
in the Church of Nicholaef, upon a has-relief,
helieved to have heen also found at Olhiopolis :
the words of that inscription are of very little
moment.

ZTPATXINPIITOMAXOZ
XPHZTEXAIPE

The bas-relief is divided into two separate
parts, placed one over the other, each afibrd-
ing a different subject*. The lower division
represents either the ceremony of Leciistemium,
or the feunily of some person confined to his
couch by sickness. A female figure is sitting
by him in a chair; and a child upon her left

(1) The stone is biz feet nine inches in length ; its breadth, two feet
•ixinchef.

360 FROM NICHOLAEP,

,CHAp. knee presents to him a small vessel^ like a
wine-gla3^. A similar vessel is represented
upon a table by the couch : there are two
other children, one on either side^ iii tibe fore-
ground of the scene. In the upper division
is a figure on horseback, holding an arrow, or
lance, as if in the act of casting it ; and before
the horse is a boy with a dog, leaping at the
horse : from all this it is probable that the
upper part represents one of those stufied
equestrian figures, mentioned in p. 120, as
being found near to the Borjfsthenes. Above
the equestrian figure is the inscription ali:eady
given.

Since the publication of the first editioD
of this volume, Charles KelsalU Esq. M. A. of
Trinity College, Cambridge, has enriched the
Collection of Olbiopolitan Inscriptions by the
addition of three others, found in the ruins of
the place, and by him brought from that coun-
try\ The original marbles are now preserved

(1) Mr. Keltall is the author of "A Letter from Athens," He has
also published a very spirited translation of Cicero's ** Two last PUai"
ingt against VerreSf* illustrated with many valuable notes, containiiig
an account of the Minor Sicilian Cities, Inscriptions, &c. To this last
work, a Postscript is subjoined by the same author, with his inters
csting remarks on the state of Modem Sicily'

TO ODESSA. g^l

in the Museum at Tulazyn : they have also been chap.
recorded by Count John Potocki.

APxnoYAninnANO

OKAEITilKAIMAZTO
NXlPOZnOIANnAI

ozznzipinoKAiAi

OTHNZTHAANOAAOZ
THZENMNHMHNKAI

The above commemorates the gratitude of the
inhabitants of OUnopoUs to the Emperor
Trofan*.

AITIOZnOAAOIZKAl .
AYOAI PETOZnOAAA .
THZEnAPXEIOZYHA .
ZAPMATIAZBAZIAEIZ
♦ ElZAMEINOZMOEn .
AYNATAITHEn ....
AAZYM^EPO ....
eElHBYAENZ ....
KYPIOYZ ....
TOYAN ABA. . . .
TOIME ....

This inscription probably records the gratitude

(3) iMcriptioiii become doubly raloable when they aenre to Ulot-

tnte Hbtoiy. Brotier, In his Supplement to the Historie* of Taeitutf,

ha* theae wordi : " B*tUUti SarmatU Jazygibui agri quo$ Deeebalus

ceatpoMrat." tliia Veeebaltu was a king of Dado, who, in his war

with
f BrM. Tacit. VoL V. p. 171.

IX.

gfilj^ FROM NICHOLABF,

CHAP, of a malefactor, who had obtained remission (tf
•pmiishment.

AXIAAEinONTAPXH

OinEPINEIKHPATON

NEIKHPATOYNEil

TEPONAPXONTE2

rnKPATHZANTI^XlN T02

EYPHSH BIOlXTPATnNOr

nEAAIOZYPANEOZ

XAPI2THPION
lEPATEYONTOZ
MOYKOYNAKYPOYTOA

The rest of this valuable inscription is not legible.
It records the dedication, probably, of a statue
to Achillesj whose name appears with a new
epithet. It tends to confirm what antient authors
have asserted, of the importance attached to
the worship of that hero by various tribes on
the borders of the JEuxine. From the foregoing
inscriptions, we may form some idea of the
peculiarities of the Scythian dialect, proving
what JDio has said relative to the ignorance of

with the Bomaru, g^t poescssion of some lands that belong^ to the
Sarmatian Jazygei: when he had conchid6d peace with Romtf he
resigned these Uinds to Tr<yan, who restored them to their former
possetsors. This mscription, therefore, is probably upon the fragment
of a pedestal which supported a statue of Tr<yan in the Forum of
OlhiopolU.

TO ODBSSA. 363

the Sarmatian Greets. May we not infer, that ^f^^'
these games in honour of Achilles werig cele- v^^r^^^
hrated on the AXIAAEQ2 AP0M02, a tongue
of knd not very far from Olbia ?

The diflFerent medals of Olbiopolis, repre- Madaii.
senting the head of Ceres ; that of a bull ; an
eagle standing on a dolphin ; a bow and quiver ;
or an ear of corn; have for their legend the
word OABIOnOAITEQN. They are all of them
exceedingly rare. We obtained one of bronze^ in
high preservation, at Nkholaef diflFering from
any we have yet seen described^ In front it
has a bearded head of Pan^ with horns; and
for reverse, a bow and quiver, with an axe, the
letters OABIO, and the monogram hP. Eckhel
describes a medal of the same city less per-
fectly preserved, the horns of the figure being
unnoticed : and the same legend is not found
in his valuable work*. Scymnus Chius ascer-
tains with great precision the situation of the
city*. " At the confluence,** says he, " of the
two rivers, Hypanis and Borysthenes, is a city,
formerly called Olbia, and since Borysthenes, by
the Greeks. ' The Milesians built it, during the

(!) See the Vignette to thb Chapter.

(2) Doctrina Num. Vet Par. I. vol. II. Vindob. 1704.

(3) Seffmnut Chius, rol. II. p. 40. Oxon, 1703.

364 FROM NICHOLAEF,

empire of the Medes^ Strabo mentions it imder
the same name, and describes it as a great
emporium, founded by the MUesians^. PUmy
says that it had formerly borne the name of
Miletopolis, as well as Olbiopolif. Casavban
derives the former appellation from the cir-
cumstance of its origin' : the latter is however
the name extant upon medals of the city.
According to Plimfs account, it stood at the
distance of fifteen miles from the sea*^ but
Casaubon suggesting a difierent reading, as
reconcileable to Strabo^ and confirmed by the
authority of Dio Chrysostom^ makes the distance
equal to twenty-five miles, which is nearer to
truth^ Some have supposed the site of it
to have been that of Oczahof; but the appear-
ance of its ruins proves the contrary. As for
Oczahof J lately so well known, not a stone now
remains, to tell where it stood. Without a
guide, it would be impossible to ascertain its
former position ; every trace of it having dis-
appeared.

Admiral Vondazen invited us to dinner:

(1) Sirab.Mh. vii. p. 442. ed. Oxon,

(2) Plin. lib. !▼. c. 12.

(3) Commeiitk in Strab, Oeogr. ed. Oxon, p. 442.

(4) Plin, Vid. supra.

(5) CoMoubon, Comment, in Strah, Gcogr. ed. Oxon, p. 442.

man.

TO ODESSA. * 3Q5

hearing of our intention to undertake a journey chap.
by land to Qmstantinoplef he offered us permission v^^^^
to sail in a packet belonging to the Crown,
firom Odessa. This we readily accepted; but
.the plan did not suit the views of the Vice-
Admiral, Count VoiTumc^ a Sclavanian^ who had
other intentions with regard to that vessel,
and by whose subsequent intrigues we were
prevented from using it. Admiral Priestman^ Admiral
who was then at Nicholaef^ acted towards us ^''*^"
with imbounded hospitality and friendship. It
YfBS principally to this worthy officer that we
were indebted for the particulars of Mr. Howard^ s
death, as they have been already related.
In the short acquaintance we formed with
him, the blunt sincerity of his character, his
openness and benevolence of heart, so greatly
endeared him to us, that we deeply lam^ited
the loss of his society. That so distinguished
a naval officer should be in the service of our
enemies, merely from want of employment at
hcMue, cannot be too much regretted. Great
Britain has not, perhaps, a better or a braver
seaman. When we left Nicholaeft he conveyed
us over the Bog^ in his barge with twelve oars :
this river is here nearly three miles wide.
We were also accompanied by Mr. Young, an
engineer, another Englishman of talent in
the service of Mussiuy from whom wo also

366 FROM IflCROLAEP,

CHAP, experienced all possible attention and civility.
The Baron de Bar, and Count Heiden, adminis-
tered to us every kindness it was in their power
to bestow ; and we quitted Nicholaef full of gra-
titude for acts of benignity, to which, if we
except the hospitality of Professor Pallas, we
had long been strangers.

Our journey £rom Nicholaef to Odessa will be
best seen by reference to any good map of
the South ofMussia ; geographical features being
the only objects that occurred. The whole is
a flat steppe, intersected by streams and by
inlets of sea water^ where we were con-
veyed sometimes in boats, and sometimes over
shallows, sitting in the carriage*. We noticed
several remarkable salt lakes, and, by the last
post-house before arriving at Oeessa, on aggre-

(1) See the interettiDg commimication upon the 8at;{ect of
watery dittriet, in No. II. of the Appendix to the former Vohime.

(2) It was in this tteppe that the anther diicovered a new epecifli of
Anehuia, which has been named 71u Rough Brigtly Buglatt, Ahchxtba
BX A8PBBATA. " Anchuia exoiperata^ eaUU ramotissimo, Mspido ;/oiUt
Unearibut integerrimis, verruoato-'Utigens; raeemu terminaHbm§, eo^T-
cibuM ciliatitf pedieeUii breviaimit.** Some other plants were also added
to his collection from these plains; yis. Siberian Barberry^ Berberii
SibirieOf this also grows near Cherson; Homed Poppy, Cheiidomkim
comieukUum; Moldavian Balm, Draeoeephalum Moldameum; Sea
Holly, E/yngiwn maritimum; Flea-wort, or Clammy Plantain,
Plantago ptyUium ; and Prostrate Meadow-grass, Poa Eragrmtit,
The Lcontice Odestena is cbmmon to the neighbourhood of Odsssm.

TO 0DB8SA. 3gf^

gation of mineralized sea-shells, used for a chap.
material in building the cottages, of such v^w
extraordinary beauty and perfection, as to iized
merit more particular description. The author
has since annually exhibited a specimen of this
singular deposit, in the Mineralogical Lectures
given to the University of Cambridge; and,
since it seems to offer some evidence of a
remarkable change sustained by animal matter
in its decomposition, as well as a striking
proof of the draining of the Great Oriental
Plain by means of the Canal of Constantinople^
he begs leave to state here, as briefly as pos*
sible, his own observation upon this subject.

It is an opinion of the celebrated BoumoUf obsma-

^ tions upon

that, whenever the abode of a testaceous animal ^}? ode$m

Limestone.

ceases to conduce to purposes of life, and is
abandoned by its inhabitant, it becomes pro-
perly a mineraP; that, for example, as a
specimen of carbonated limey it possesses, in an
eminent degree, the characters and fracture of
that substance, when indurated or crystallized.
In proof of this, he once exhibited to the author,
in the casual fracture of a common oyster-shell,
the same relative position of surfaces which is

(9) Traits complet de la Chaux carbonate, &c. par Btmmon,
pp. 910» 814.

968 VRCm KICHOLAEF,

^?x ^* found in the Iceland spar^ and as accurately
corresponding with the obtuse angle of that
mineral as if they had been regulated by the
gamameter. Before Saussure discovered strata
of limestone lying beneath rocks of the ifiost
antient formation, the French endeayoured to
establish a theory^ that all the carbonated lime
upon the surface of the globe resulted from
the decomposition of animal matter, deposited
during a series of ages. Whosoever has at-
tended to the appearances left by t&taceous
animals, particularly in the cavities of the Cbrmi
Ammonisy must have been struck with the
remarkable circumstance, that where an eteape
of the fleshy part of the animal has been pre-
cluded by the surrounding shell, pure and
perfect crystals of carbonated lime have been
formed ; and must also frequently have retnarked,
that shells alone, independent of the admission
of any extraneous substance, have, by their
deposit, constituted immense strata of limesUme^
For the truth of this, it is unnecessary to ad-
duce a more striking example than the instance
afforded of the limestone in the neighbourhood of
Odessa. It is in a semi-indurated state ; but,
like the Ketton^stone^ ^ and almost every other

(I) This stone, by a very recent analysis of the Re?. J. Holme^ of
St, Peter*t CoUege, Cambridge^ is found to be one of the purest
combinations of lime and carbonic add.

TO ODESSA. 309

variety of limestone used for architectural pur- ^^2^*
poaes, it hardens by exposure to the atmosphere.
Owing to this, and also to its remarkable light-
ness, it has become a fstvourite material for
building. When examined closely, it displays,
ibronghout the entire mass, no other appear-
anoe than an aggregate of small cockleshells^ all
exactly of the same size, and perfect in their
forms, but crumbling in the hand, and bemg
coloured by the yellow or the red oxide of iron.
The chemical analysis of this mineral is nearly
that of the Ketton-stone ; yielding no other ingre-
dieiits than lime and carbonic aeidj excepting a
very small proportion of the oxide of iron. The
stratum whence it is dug is of considerable
thickness, and lies several yards above the pre-
sent- level of the Black Sea. It may be noticed
in every part of the coast, and especially within
the port of* Odessa. Similar appearances may
be also traced the whole way from the Black Seaf
towards the north, as £Eur as the fcnrty-eighth
line of latitude, and perUaps over all Asiatic
Taktary ; whence it follows, that the level of
the waters appearing at intervals between the
parallels of French longitude 40 and 80, was not
always what it is now : and^ that the period of
its incipient fall may be traced to an sera subse-
quent to that of the Scriptural Deluge, seems
evident, not only from history, but also by

3^0 P^^M NICHOLAEF,

CHAP, reference to existing natural phsenomena* At
s^-y^ the bursting of the Thradan Bosporus^ whether
qnraoM ^ cousequeuce of a volcano, whose vestiges are
sStedSmi y®' visible, or of immense pressure caused by
i^ofue* ^^ accumulated ocean against the mound there
nraeUm presented, the whole of Greece experienced an

Botportu, f ^ *^

inundation : the memory of this was preserved
by the inhabitants of Samothracey so late as the
time of Diodortis Sicultis^ ; and its effects are
still discernible in the form of all the islands
in the south of the Archipelago^ which slope
towards the north, and are precipitous upon
their southern shores. Not therefore to rely
upon those equivocal legends of antient days,
which pretend that Orpheus with the Argonauts
passed into the Baltic over the vast expanse of
water then uniting it with the Buxine, we may
reasonably conclude, as it has been asserted
by Toumefort^ by Pallas^ and by other celebrated
men, that the Aral^ the Caspian^ and the Black
Sea, were once combined ; and that the whole
of the Great Eastern Plain of Taktary was one
prodigious bed of water. The draining, per-
petually taking place, by the two channels of
Taman and Constantinople^ is by some deemed
to be greater at this time than the produce of
all the rivers flowing into the Sea of Azof and

(\) Diodor. Sie, Ub. 6. BibUoth. Hist

TO ODESSA. 3'71

into the Black Sea. The former has become so ^?^^-
shallow, that durmg certain winds, as before
related, a passage may be effected by land from
Taganrog to Azof, through the bed of the sea.
Ships, formerly sailing to Taganrog and to the
Mouths of the Don^ are now unable to approach
either to the one or to the other : from all this^
it may not be unreasonable to conclude, that
both the Black Sea and the Sea of Azof by the
diminution their waters hourly sustain, will at
some future period become a series of marsh
lands, intersected only by the course and
junction of the rivers flowing into them. An
iipposite opinion was however maintained by
the learned Toumefort^ as to the quantity of
water flowing through the Canal of Constan-
tinople : he believed that less water is discharged
by that Canal than by any one of the great rivers
which fall into those seas*. The same author
expresses therefore his surprise that the Black
Sea does not increase, and observes that it
receives more rivers than the Mediterranean ; as
if unmindful that the Mediterranean contains the
body of all the rivers that flow into the Mceotis
and the BUick Sea, Other writers also, believing
that more water flows into, than out of, the

(2) TcwmfortfVoy. du Levant, torn. II. Lett. XV. p. 404. Lyarif 1717.
VOL. II. 2 B

3»72 ODESSA.

CHAP. BUick Sea, endeavour to account for its present
level, either by imagining a subterraneous cban-
neP, or an eflFect of evaporation*. The Rumans
entertain notions of a subterraneous channel, in
order to account for the loss of water in the
Caspian ; the Volga being as considerable a river
as any other Mling into the Black Sea. ' The truth
perhaps is, that the rivers which fsdl into the Black
Sea and into the Sea of Azof ^o not contribute
a greater body of water than that which escapes
by the Canal of Constantinople ; and therefore
admitting an effect of evaporation, the level of
the Black Sea insensibly falls. The JDon^ the
Kuban, the Phase^ the Dniepery the Dniester, the
Danube, and many other rivers making a great
figure in geography, have a less important ap-
pearance when surveyed at their embouchures.
The greatest of them all, the Danube, is very
shallow at its mouth ; its waters, extended over
an immense surface, lie stagnating in shallow
marshes, among an infinity of reeds and other
aquatic plants, subject to very considerable
evaporation, besides the loss sustained during
its passage to the sea.

Condnct of
the Em*

The building of the present town of Odessa,
P^j^- and the construction of the pier for its port,

(1) Voyage ^^Ana^ane, torn. I. c. I.

(2) Ibid.

ODESSA. 31^3

were works earried on entirely under the direc- chap.
tion of Admiral Rihas^ who captured the place ..^^v^
from the Turks. The late Empress entrusted
every thing concerning it into his hands, as a
mark of her approbation of his conduct : the
Emperor Paul, with a view of thwarting bis mo-
ther's benevolent design, dismissed the Admiral
aHogether, leaving his large family destitute of
any means of support. This was exactly the
sort of system pursued by that monarch, when
we were in Russia^ towards every veteran in his
service. Never was the remark of Frederick of
Phussia more completely verified, " Officers are
Hie lemons : we squeeze out the juice, and cast away
the rind /" We had an opportunity to examine a Camber of
catalogue of officers who had resigned, or who officers.
had been dismissed the service, since Paul's
accession. Including the civil list, the persons
exclnded amounted to the astonishing number
of thirty thousand } eighteen thousand dismissed
by order; and twelve thousand who had
voluntarily resigned. In the list of these, ap-
peared the names of some individuals who had
only been in office three days ; others a week :
thus the whole body of officers in the Emperor's
service had been changed with such surprising
rapidity, t&at there was hardly a family in all
Russia unaffected by his caprice. The bad
policy of this was even then evident; for as

2 B 2

374

0DBS8A.

CHAP, every one knew that the numher of the disaffected
persons by far exceeded the list of those whom
fear or mercenary consideration kept in sub.
ordination, it was apprehended that the whole
empire, in consequence of the slightest emotion,
would be thrown into disorder. The first con-
sequence of any such disturbance would have
been the massacre of all the nobles : a regard
for their own safety was the only bond, on the
part of the nobility, which held them from
betraying their disaffection. Still it was evident
that the life of the Sovereign would soon atone
for his disgraceful tyranny ; and the result has
proved that his death was even nearer than we
then apprehended.

During the tune that Admiral Sibas held the
direction of affairs at Odessa^ a plan was pro-
jected for the construction of a pier, calculated
to render the port alike an object of utility and
of grandeur. This project was submitted to the
Emperor's consideration, who ordered it to be
put in execution. It was therefore naturally
expected, that the Sovereign, who was to reap
every advantage from the proposed undertaking,
would so far patronize it, as to advance the
money for its completion. Paul however hesi-
tated, and the work ceased. In the mean time,
the commerce of Odessa languished ; the rising

ODESSA. 375

prosperity of the town was checked ; the build- ^ j^^-
ings were not completed ; the merchants began ^-^v^^
to leave the place; and the necessity of the
undertaking became daily more and more'
alarmingly visible. At last, petition after
petition having been offered in vain, the matter
came to a sincnilar issue. The Emperor resolved vtmun*

-111 pnujtioetof

to turn usurer. He proposed to lend them a theSo?e-
sum of money, at enormous mterest, and upon
the strongest security ; yet left the inhabitants
no option, but compelled them to accept the
loan upon his own terms, and ordered the work
to be carried on. The inhabitants, finding they
could offer no security equal to the whole charge,
which was estimated at five hundred thousand
roubles^ began to bargain with their Sovereign
as with a Jew ; begging his permission to
borrow of him only half the sum proposed,
and to construct a pier upon a smaller scale.
To this Paul consented ; and the work,
so planned, was nearly finished when we
arrived ; but, to those who have seen the
original design, the meanness, and insuffi-
ciency of the undertaking is lamentably con-
spicuous.

The town of Odessa is situate close to the ^rt***'^ ^

Accoantof

coast, which is here very lofty, and much Odessa.

IZ.

gnQ ODBS8A.

CHAP, exposed to winds \ The air is reckoned pure,
and remarkably wholesome. Com is the prin-
cipal article of exportation. The imjports are,
dried and conserved fruits from Constantinople,

Greek wines, tobacco, and other TurAisk

(1) " Odessa isa very interetting plaoe ; and being Ihe Mat of ga-
veminenty and the only quarantine aUowed, except Cafit and Tuganvog^
is, though of very late erection, already weaMiy and flourishing.
Too much fnalie cannot be given to the Duke of RlehcUeny to nAoK
administnition, not to any natural advantages, this town owes its
prosperity. The Bay is good and secure, but all round is desert; and
it labours under the want of a navigable river, and a great scarcity of
fresh water. There are two wells in the town, both brackish ; and a
third, a very fine one, on the opporite side of the bay : a Ibarth had
been just discovered when I was there, In the garden of an Italian
merchant, and was talked of like a silver mine. All eommoditiBB aic
either brou^t in bariu from Cberson, or drawn over the Mtfpe by onn,
who were seen lying in the streets and on the new qnay, great^ ex-
hausted with thirst, and almost furious in their struggles to get at tlw
water, when it was poured into the troughs, llie aUnatioii of tlie
town, however, is healthy and pleasant in other respects. The qua-
rantine is large, and well constructed.

** As far as I could learn, (and I made many inquiries,) it wna very
bad policy to fix their quaranUne at Odessa, instead of Otdiakof,
where was a city and fortress ready built, in a situation perfectly
secure from the Turks, and which, lying at the junctiona of the Bog
and Dniq>er, is the natural emporium of the seas. The bailMw;
I understand, is perfectly secure ', and, even if the Liman were unMfe,
the Bog affords a constant shelter. The [observation genenJly made
was, the necessity of a secure quarantine ; to which it was answered,
tliat the Pohit of Kinbum afforded a situation even more seeore tlMB
Odessa. If these fiicts are true, a wise Qovemment vrould probably,
without discouraging Odessa, restore the quarantine to Otchakof, and
allow them both to take their chance in a feir CQnq[iatition. This
however seems litUe understood in Russia : Potemkin had no idea of
encouraging Cherson, but by ruining Taganrog : and at present Cherson
is to be sacrificed to the new favourite, Odessa."- Ileber's MS, JourmL

ODE88A.

a??

merchandize. The villages in the neighbourhood chap.
produce butter and cheese ; these are rarities
at table in the South of Russia. Potatoes, seldom
seen in other towns, are sold in the market, and
they are even carried as presents to Constar^
Hnaple. The melons of the neighbourhood are
.remarkably fine. They have received from
Turkey one species superior in flavour to any
perhaps known in the world. The inside of
this melon is of a green colour ; and the seed,
after it is opened, is found in a cavity in the
centre, quite detached from the sides of the
fruit, in a dry mealy case, or bag, in shape
resembling the seed vessel of Indian com.
This remarkable character will serve to dis-
tinguish it at any time. The inhabitants, to
preserve the seed, pierce those bags with
skewers, and hang them up in their houses*.
The water-melons of Odessa are sometimes
superior to the finest that are sold in the markets
of Naplesy and they are nearly equal to those
found upon the coast of Syria. The whole
country is destitute of wood: for fuel they
bum weeds gathered in the steppes^ as weU as
bundles of reeds and cow-dung: this last they
collect, and stick upon the sides of their houses ;

{i) We brought lome seeds to England-, but no plants were
produced from them.

378 ODESSA.

CHAP, a custom practised in the Isle of Portland, and
throughout the whole county of Cornwall.

Odessa is remarkahle for the superior flavour
of its mutton ; which, however, does not equal
that of the Crimea. The sheep are slaughtered
at a very early age, and brought to table the
day they are killed ; the mutton cannot there-
fore be eaten, unless it be boiled until it falls
to pieces. The same custom prevails with
regard to poultry : the fowls are neither killed
nor picked until the water for cooking boils.
Of all the dishes known in Russia, there is
nothing in such general esteem, from the prince
to the peasant, as a kind oipdUs, csWeA piroghL
In the streets of Moscow and Petersburg, these
are sold upon stalls. They are well- tasted ; but
extremely greasy, and often fiill of oil; cou-
sisting of minced meat, or brains, rolled up in
pancakes, which are afterwards fried in butter
or in oil, and served hot. The rolls described
by Bruce, with which women in a certain
partW ^^A(>pia feed their husbands, are nearly
similar; only the meat is raw, and the roll is
of dough: yet the mouth of a Russian prince
might perhaps water at the sight of the
Ethiopian piroghi^ . Pigeons are rarely seen at

( I ) See BtUler'9 description of a Muscovite, in Note to p. 299. of thin
Volume,

ODESSA. ^Q

the tables of the Russians : they entertain a super- chap.
stitious veneration for these birds, because the >^v^
Holy Ghost assumed the form of a dove. They
are therefore kept more for amusement than
for food, and are often maintained with great
care, at an enormous expense. The nobles
employ servants to look after them, and to teach
them a number of tricks*.

It has been ahready stated, that we left the Account of
Crimea with an intention to undertake a journey ^y ^»d to
by land to Constantinople. The route is usually nopu.
practicable from Odessa, by the way of Ihihosavj
upon the frontier, to Yassy, Silistriaj and Adria-
nople. On account of the rumoured dangers
that might be apprehended from the rebel
adherents of Pasvan d^Oglou, we had solicited
from our ambassador at the PartCy an escort of
Janissaries to meet us at Yassy. The road is
calculated for the cpnveyance of any kind of
wheeled vehicle. Prince Nassau, during his
legation to the Parte, had been accompanied
by nearly an hundred carriages ; and the
Turkish guard, stationed at short intervals
the whole way, renders the journey secure.
This route is also interesting, on account of

(I) See p. 141, of the former Volume.

IX.

380 .ODESSA.

CHAP, the mountainous district through which it leads,
in parts where snow is said to remain during
the whole year; and also from the circum-
stance of crossing the Danube so near to its
emhouchure. Almost immediately after leaving
SilUtriOf that ridge of mountains mtervenes,
which was antiently called HiEMUs ; hence the
descent is seldom interrupted the whole way to
Adrianoplej from which place there is an excellent
road to Camtantinaple. A shorter route, but
less frequented, and less convenient, conducts
the traveller, along the coast of the Bhck Sea^
to the Thracian Bosporus, These considerations
strongly instigated us to pursue our intended
expedition by land. Circumstances however
occurred to induce a different determination;
and, although we narrowly escaped the pas-
sage of the Black Sea with our lives, we had
ultimately reason to rejoice ; for we were after-
wards informed, that an order from the Hussion
Government was actually expedited to Bubosar^
with instructions for our apprehension, and a
more particular examination of our papers and
baggage than the nature of them would have
rendered desirable ^ By one of those fortunate
accidents which sometimes befal adventurers.

(I) Among these were the surf eye of the Bunian Ports and ifrsenalf,
which are dow safely deposited in the Admiralty*

ODESSA. ggl^

we found in the port of Odessa^ a Venetian bri- chap.
gantine, laden with com, bound for the Adriatic ;
whose master, // Capitano Francesco Bergamini^
not only eagerly embraced the opportunity of
conveying us to Constantinople^ but promised
also to assist in faciUtating our escape, by
enforcing the validity of the passport we had
brought with us. He waited only the arrival
of his own order for sailing, from the office of
Nicholaef: in the mean time we made every
thing ready for our embarkation.

i i

CHAP. X.

VOYAGE FROM ODESSA, TO THti HARBQOtt OF INBADA
IN TURKEY.

Contrast between a Russian and a Greek — Tow-
nefort's erroneous Account of the Black Sea —
Extraordinary Temperature of the Climate —
English Commerce in the Black Sea — Fortress
of Odessa — Departure for Turkey — Island of
Leuce — Accounts of it by Antient Writers —
Mouths of the Danube — White Dolphins — Ob-
servatioTis on board the Moderato — Dreadful
Tempest — Harbour of Ineada — Plants — Ap-
pearance of the Turks — Mountaineers — Bcual-
tic Pillars — Theory of their Origin.

X. ' J- HE contrast between a Russian and a Cossack,
^^"""^ or between a Rusnan and a Tahtar, has perhaps

ODESSA. 383

already been sufficiently delineated; but there chap.
is a third point of opposition, in which a Sussian ^^"v^^
may be viewed, more amusmg than either of between a
these ; namely, when he is contrasted with a and^a^
Cfreek. The situation of Odessa is not very
remote from the spot where, eighteen centuries
ago, similar comparisons served to amuse Ovid^
during his melancholy exile. He found upon
either side of the Danube a different race of men.
Towards the south were the OeUSf whose origin
was the same as that of the Greeks^ and whose
mode of speech he describes as still retaining
corrupted traces of the Greek language. Upon
the north were the SarmatianSf the progenitors
of the litissians. According to his account,
however, both to the Oetce and Sarmatce belonged
the same

** Vox fera, tmx Tultus, Teriflsima MartiB imago :
ICoD coma, non vXHl barba resecta manu." i

Perhaps we are not authorized in considering
the modem Greeks as legitimate descendants of
the GetcB. Be that as it may, the former are
found at this day, negotiating with as ferocious
a people upon the JEuxine coast as Ovid himself
selected for the originals of his picture of the
Barbarians upon the Ister ; and the two people

(1) Ovid. Trigt. Ub. y. Bleg. VII.

334 ODBSSA.

CHAP, are instantly distingoished from each other by
their striking peculiarity of feature. In order
to render the contrast as forcible as possible,
let us select a Greek from any of the islands or
shores of the Archipelago^ and place him by the
side of a Russian. The latter, particularly if he
be in imiform, and of a rank above the peasant,
resembles one of those figures which children
cut out^in wood ; requiring considerable address
in pobing, to be sustained up(m its legs. The
Chreek^ on the other hand, active and Uthy as a
serpent, twists himself into every variety <rf
posture, and stands in almost every attitude,
firm upon his feet, and generally exhibiting a
graceful waving line of figure, he seems as i^
like a cat, he would fall upon his legs, although
tossed in any direction. The features of the
Greek may be said to combine those of the
Portuguese and of the French ; having the dark
hair and eyes of the former, with the fixed
grimace of the latter. Generally speaking, the
men among the Greeks are not handsome ; their
stature is small, although well proportioned.
The Russian^ too, has a diminutive person ; but
his fece is in every thing the reverse of that of
the Greek ; offering, in profile, a very remarkable
concavity. This concavity is increased in the line
of a Russian peasant's countenance, by the
projection of the beard from the chin, and

ODESSA. 385

a quantity of bushy hair upon the forehead chap.
— " Oraque sunt longis horrida tecta camis.'^ —
A line traced to express the profile of a Greeks is,
on the contrary, convex^ A remarkable distance
may be observed between the nose and the
mouth ; this is never a pleasing character in
physiognomy, as it gives to the countenance a
knavish hypocritical expression. The JRtissian
countenance is not thus characterized. The
Cfreek has, moreover, frequently a wide mouth,
ihick lips, and very large teeth. His forehead
is low, and his chin small. His nose partakes
of the general convexity of his face, rather than
of that partial aquiline which is considered as a
characteristic of the Roman countenance ; and,
when this convexity is too prominent, the
features resemble those of the Fawns and
Satyrs exhibited by antient sculpture. Of
course, a description of this kind, calculated
merely for amusement, must be liable to many
remarkable exceptions. The inhabitants of
Greece often differ from each other; those of
Laced(Bmoni ' -^^--sll the western coast of the
Moreot togethv^ Jnth the natives of Zante
and Cephalonic^ are a much finer race of men,
having nobler features and more athletic

(1) See the Vignette to this Chapterp in which an endeavour has
been made to exhibit the profiles of the Rustian and the Oreek,

386 ODESSA.

CHAP, figures than any of the inhahitants of the
Arcldpelago.

Our anxiety for the return of Captain Ber-
gaminVs messenger from Nicholaef raay be easily
imagined. We had nearly terminated our
career in Mtissia ; yet prisoners, under confine-
ment in a dungeon, never prayed more earnestly
for a jail delivery, than we did to escape firom
that country. So surrounded with danger was
every Englishman at this time, from the Baltic
to the Black Sea^ and so little certain of being
able to put any plan in execution, that we
considered it more than an even chance in
favour of our being again detained, and perhaps
sent back the whole way to Petersburg. During
this interval of suspense and apprehension, a
number of little Turkish boats were daily sailing
in or out of the port of Odessa. Although they
were so small that few would venture in such
craft, even upon the Thames in rough weather,
yet we sometimes fancied they might facilitate
our escape, if our scheme of sailing in the
Venetian vessel should fail of success. They
were laden with merchandize to the water's
edge, and carried such enormous sails, that
they seemed likely to upset in every gust of
wind ; yet we were told, their owners ventured
in these vessels, not only to ConstantinopUy but

ODESSA. 387

almost to every port of the Black Sea. It must chap.
be confessed, we did not anticipate with much

pleasure the necessity of a voyage in one of
those bean-cods; for, although Toumefart^ in -_,^
refutation of all history and tradition, crave a y^'« •^
fevourable account of the navigation of the Accoontof
Black Seoj nothing can be more erroneous than Sea.
his representation *. The darkness which covers
it, especially during winter, owing to thick
fogs and falling snow, is so great, that mariners
are unable to discern objects a cable's length
from their vessels. The entrance to the Canal
of Constantinople^ always difficult, becomes in
such cases impracticable. There is, in fact, no
part of the globe where navigation is more

(1) The account is very characteristic of a Frenchnianf sailing on a
fine day from the Canal of Corutantinople. " Quoiqu'en aient dii U$
AneienSf I«A Mbb Noirb n*a ribn db noir, pour ainsi dire, que le
nom; Us vents n*y »ot{fflent pas avecplus defuriey st les orages n*y soni
gutrts plus friquens que sur les autres mers, II faut pardonner ces
exagh'ations aux Poetes anciens, et surtout au chagrin d'Ovide : en
effei Xe sabie de la Mer Noire est de mcme eouleur qtie celui de la Mer
BUmehe, et ses eaux en sont aussi claires ; en un mot, si les c6tes de
eette mer, qui passent pour si dangireuses, paroissent sombres de loin,
ee sont les bois qui les eouvrent, ou le grand Hoignement qui les font pa"
roUre eomme noirAires. Le del yfut si beau, et si serein pendant tout
noire voyage, que nous ne ptimes nous einp£cher de donner une espice de
dhnenti d Valerius Flaccusfumeux poete Latin, qui a dierit la route
des Argonautes, lesquels passoient pour les plus nelibrks voyageurs de
VanOquUi, mass qui ne sont eependant que db fort pbtits OABfoirs
en eomparaison des Vincent le Blanc, TavemUnr, Sfc. Ce Poete assure
que le del de la Mer Noire est to^ours embrouilU" Voyage du Le*
ptmt, Lett. XVI. torn. III. p. 1. ed. Lyon,nM.

VOL. II. 2 C

^gg ODESSA.

CHAP, dangerous \ Shallows, hitherto unnoticed in
any chart, occur frequently when vessels are
out of sight of land ; dreadful storms take place
so suddenly, and with such fury, that every
mast is carried overboard almost as soon as the
first symptom of a change of weather is noticed
Perhaps more skilful sailors might guard against
danger from the winds : it has more than once
happened, when the Russian fleet put to sea,
that the ships commanded by Admirals Priestnuui
and Wilson were the only vesssels that escaped
being dismasted: yet even those experienced
officers described the Black Sea as being some-
times agitated by tempests more fearful than
any thing they had encountered in the Ocean.
Many vessels were lost during the year when

(1) This troth, fbanded on the experience of ages, and admitted bj
the ablest writers of antiqnity, might seem sufficiently well established.
But modern authors, instigated by the example of Towmrfortf are
determined to set aside testimony so respectable. That a Tery coosi-
deiBble part of the danger encountered in navigating the Black Sea is
owing to the want of proper charts and able mariners^ cannot be
disputed; yet, from its very nature, and the heights around, it is
necessarily liable to dark fogs and Tiolent squalls ; consequently, the
proximity of a lee shore and shallows cannot be destitute of peril. Tet
we are told, '' It is a notion received from the Thirki, that the Blad^
Sea is dangerous. To them, indeed, it is truly black ; and it would
even be so to British sailors, in such vessels as the Turks iisa, and
which are peculiar to that sea : they cannot lie to, and are conaequently
obliged to run before the wind, and, if they miss a port, go on shore. It
is not more stormy than other seas." Survey qfthe TWHiA Emphrtf
Fourth edit. Introd. Chap. LotuL 1809.

ODESSA, 389

we visited Odessa^ by the storms preceding and. caip.
following the Equinox. The hulk of a vessel
driven on shore at Varna was all the intelli-
gence received of the fate of a merchant ship
that sailed out of Odessa when we were there :
not a soul on board escaped. Another was
wrecked attempting to enter the Canal of
Constantinople: eight sailors, with two officers,
were drowned; the rest of the crew were Sjaved
by remaining a whole day upon the ship's yards,
until the storm abated, when they swam to the
shore. These storms were so. great, that an
alarm prevailed on shore for the safety of the
houses : during one day and night, the stoutest
stone walls seemed unequal to resist the violence
of the gale. The vineyards at Sudakf as Professor
Pallas by a letter informed us, and along the south
coast of the Crimea^ were destroyed ; houses were
unroofed; and all those with casements had
their windows forced in by the tempest.

Odessa will ever be a port of great impor-
tance to Russia^ while she is prevented from
laying her hands upon the Turkish empire;
because, from its proximity to the Porte^ a
constant eye is kept upon the operations of the
Turks. It has also the advantage of being so
rarely obstructed by ice, that a vessel may
generally escape ; whereas, in other ports of

2 c 2

Black Sea.

390 ODESSA.

CHAP, the Bkxk Sea, an enemy upon the ice may
v^pv^ attack the ships as well as the works : this
happened when the Russians took Oczdkof. The
fctraordi- extraordinary degrees of temperature, in these
peratare of latitudes, are altogether unaccountahle. Captain
mate. Bergamim informed us, that his ship was once
detained five months in the mouth of the Danube,
hy the freezing of the sea. Omd, during his
residence near the same place, had witnessed a
Bngiuh similar event ^ Upon the subject of English
In the ^ commerce and navigation in the Black Sea, we
have avoided going into much detail, from the
consciousness that our personal observations
were of limited extent, and because the theme
is amply discussed in some interesting remarks
addressed to a respectable periodical work*:
these remarks, notwithstanding their unas-
suming form, bear such internal evidence of
authenticity, that we shall adopt them as au-
thority in the Appendix. In fact, the official

(1) The description possesses admirable force and beauty :
" Vidimus ingentem glade consistere pontum,

Lubricaque immotas testa premebat aquas.
M'ec Tidisse sat est. Durum calcavimus sequor;
Undaque non ndo sub pede summa foit.**

OviiL lib. ill. Tri$t. EUg. X.
Those who have experienced a RuMtUm winter will also know how to
estimate the truth and elegance of the following lines :
'' Ssepe sonant moti glacie pendente capilli,

Et nitet inducto Candida barba gelu." Ibid.

(2) Nawd Chronicle, vol. XXI. p. 216.

ODESSA. ^j

documents therein comprised we know to be

• CHAP*

derived from records kept in the Chancery x. '
Office of the British Legation at Constantinople ; '-^^v"^^
and to these the writer, as a memher of the
Levant Company, could of course command
access. We may venture indeed to pledge
ourselves for the authenticity of the papers in
question ; and we are glad to be instrumental
in bringing under the public eye such valuable
materials for history, in a way more calculated
to perpetuate the recollection of them, than the
fugitive manner in which they were originally
published^.

The fortress of Odessa is small, but kept y^^^^^^f
in good order : it has, like that of Cherson, a odegta.
double fosse. We paid one visit to the Com-
mandant, a genuine Russian^ living in a little
hole, among bundles of official writings, sur-
rounded by an atmosphere powerfully affecting
our ol&ctory nerves. In answer to a very rude
interrogation concerning our business, we said,
with palpitating hearts, that we begged to have
our passports signed. After keeping us in a state
of most painful suspense for about half-an-hour,
the expected rouble being paid, and the hums
and haws, and difficulties of office, thereby

(3) See the Appendim to thii Volume, No. II.

3gS VOYAGE FROM ODESSA,

CHAP, done away, we heard the cheerful word,
^^"y^^ ** Cardsholj^* which never sounded so agreeahly
in our ears. With the important paper close
folded and concealed, we cautiously withdrew
from the inquisitive observation of several spies
of the police, who with outstretched necks
and eager eyes, seemed awiu*e that it contained
wherewithal to gratify their curiosity.

On the morning of the last day of October , at
day-break. Captain BergaminU of the Moderator
came with the joyful intelligence that all was
ready for his departure ; and desired us to
hasten on board, as the wind was fevourable,
and he wished to get under weigh with all
possible expedition. The delays of the custom-
house kept the vessel in port until ten o'clock.
We embarked a little before nine. At ten pre-
cisely, we began to heave the anchor ; but, from
the foulness of the harbour, it was with difficulty
raised. The crew of the custom-house boat,
who had left us, returned for another dram of
brandy, offeriog at the same time their assist-
Departure g^^^^ ^j half-aftcr-tcn the vessel was in
motion ; but we lay-to for the Captain's nephew,
who commanded another merchant-ship, called
// Piccolo AronettOj which had not yet cleared.
Soon after eleven she came along-side ; and
with hearts elate, although still beating with

TO INBADA IN TURKEY. 393

anxiety, through dread of being again detained, chap.
we bade a last adieu to Russia ; steering along
the coast towards Aiermafij in the mouth of the
Dniester^ : this we passed in the evening. For
the rest of our voyage, the extracts from the
author's Journal will be accompanied by a literal

(1) Akerman and KUiOf in Lotoer MoldaviOf or BeiMtrabia, were two
eelebrated towns. The first is the 'O^la of Herodatut, called by the
J^diROiw Julia Alba, and by the Moldadant of the present day, Czetate
AWq, or the White Citt. Kilia, in the Months of the Danube, was
perhaps the antient AvK6<rT0fMv, In the HUtoire de la Moldame et
Valaekie, (printed at Neuehaiel in 1781,) whence this Note is derired,
dreomstances are mentioned concerning the celebrity of Akerman, as
the place of Ovut$ exile, which hare all the air of a &ble. It is
imposaiUe to examine OvkTi writings withoat being convinced, from
his own langaage, that the place of his residence was Tomit, which
was ranch nearer to the sitaation of Kilia ; yet, says the author of the
work now alluded to, speaking of Akerman, ** It Is fiunoos in having
been the exile of (hnd. There is a lake still called by the peasants
Land Oviduhti, Ovid's Lake. Ovid left Czetate Alba, and retired to a
Tillage three leagues distant, of which the ruins are stQl visible.
Hear the cottage in which he lived, there is a small spring whieh bears
his name, as well as the lake on the banks of which he used to walk.
The peasants pretend that he composed poems in the Moldavian
language; but none have ever been found. They have still various
traditions concerning him." Similar absurdities exist about his tomb,
which they pretend to shew to travellers somewhere near Odesea, It
seems that those who would thus move him from the marshes of the
leter, to the Tyrat, or Dniester, have never read these lines of
the poet:

« Quam legis, ex lUk tibi venit epistola terrAj
Latus ubi aequoreis additur liter aquis.'*

Lib.T. Triet. Eleg. Vll.
Nor can they surely have considered the force of these words :
•' Medio defendimur Jstro*^

Lib. iii. Eleg. X.

394

CHAP.
X.

VOYAGE PROM ODESSA,

translation in the Appendix^ of the log-book
of the Moderate ; in order to afford as faithful
an account as possible of our navigation in the
Black Sea.

Island of
Lew'e.

At four o'clock in the morning of the next
day, 'We were called upon deck by the Captain,
to see the Isle of Serpents^ antiently Leuce,
lying off the mouths of the Z)antd)e, celebrated
in history for the tomb and temple of Achilles^
It is so small, that, as we passed, we could view
its whole extent : this continued in sight until
nine. Judging by the eye, it appeared to be
near a mile in length, and less than half-a-mile
in breadth. It is quite bare, being covered only
with a little grass, and very low herbage. When
carefully examined with a telescope, there did
not appear to be the smallest remains of
antiquity. The author made a sketch of it from
the south-east. On the south side are cliffs,
seeming to be about fifty feet high. Many absurd
stories of Turkish and Russian mariners are
founded upon a notion that the island is itself
covered with serpents. An opportunity rarely
occurs in which ships can remain, in order to
visit it ; and if this were to happen, not a man
of any of their crews would venture on shore ;

(1) See Appendix to this Volume, No. III.

TO INEADA IN TURKBY. ggg

although there be twenty fathoms of water chap.

within a cable's length of the [island, and any
vessel may sail close to it. The Russians relate,
that four persons, belonging to the crew of a
ship wrecked there, no sooner landed than
they encountered a worse enemy than the sea,
and were all devoured by serpents. Ammianus
Marcellinu^ records a similar superstition as ofk'^
prevailing in his time, concerning the dangers writ^.
of the place. After a description so remarkable
and so recent as that of Arrian^ who ' wrote
about the second century, there is great reason
to believe some interesting remains of antiquity
might be here discovered. This secluded spot
escaped the ravages to which almost every other
portion of classical territory has been exposed ;
neither is it known that any traveller ever
ventured to the island. Antiently it had
various appellations ; among these, the most
received was that of Leuce, or * The White
Island.' It was so called in consequence of the
white appearance caused by the swarm of sea-
fowl, covering it in certain seasons of the year,
and thereby rendering it more visible. The
author has seen similar sights among the

("Z). Ammi(in. Mated, lib. xxii. r. 8. -" AimU mim non iine dUeri'
mine vita: Ulic qttenquam pemoctare.'*

396 VOYAGE PROM 0DBS8A,

^^^- Hebrides ; where the number of Solan geese, and
of other birds, cause the rocks and islands to
appear as if they were capped with snow. All
the superstitions respecting Leucb i»em to
have had their origin in its importance as a
land-mark ; the coast near the Mouths of the
Danube being so low, that the mariners are
unable to discern it, even when close in with
the shore ; and the island itself being often
obscured by the hazy atmosphere of the Black
SeOf renders navigation dangerous, excepting
when it is made conspicuous by its white birds.
Owing to this circumstance, Pindar called it
l^Tjaov ^a€ppay, * The Conspicuous Island /^ his
commentators add, that it was '' called The
White Shore in the JEuxine ; where many white
birds appearing, shew the island to those who
sail that way." And again, ''It is called
Leuce on account of the number of white
bird^ which make their nests there/^ Euripide^^
describes it as the White Shore of Achilles^ and
calls it nOAYOPNieON, from the number of its
birds. Scymnus Chiu^ also affirms that it was
sacred to Achilles, and remarkable for its white

(1) Pindar, Ncm. A,

(2) *E(H0iiol, Pelieani,
(8) Iphigen. in Tanr.

(4) Scymnus Chiut. Frag. 1. 46.

TO INEADA IN TURKEY. 397

birds. Arriavf says it had the name of Leuce, ^^J'
or • Th^ White Islands A part of its history,
ooBsidered by Scymnus C/dus as being the most
marvellous, was, that the main land could not
thence be discerned, although distant only forty
stadia^ or five miles. This is literally true ;
the land is invisible to a person much
nearer the coast, as will appear by the sub-
sequent description, made from notes written
while we were lying oS the mouth of the
Danube. Arrian thus introduces his very inter-
esting description : " Sailing out of that mouth
of the Ister which is called ^lAON, with
the wind AnAPKTIA2,« the Island of Achilles
appears ; by some called the Course of Achilles^
and by others, from its colour, the White
Island. It is related that Thetis gave this isle
to Achilles f and that he still inhabits it : his
temple and statue, both of very antient work-
manship, are there seen. No human being
dwells there ; only a few goats, which mariners
convey as votive offerings. Other offerings,
or sacred gifts, are suspended in honour of

(6) Arrian, Peripl. Ponl. Eui. p. SI . Ed. HueU. Ox. 1098.

(6) Apardiaa was a name given by the Greeks to the North Wind,
as appears by this passage fVom Pliny : '* From the North blows the
wind Sbftbntrio ; and between that, and the rising of the solstitial
siUi Aquilo : these are respectively named {by the Oreekt) Aparetias
and Borea$:* PUn. HUt. Nat. lib. ii.

398

VOYAGB FROM ODBSSA,

CHAP. Achilles ; such as vases,, rings, and costly stones.
Inscriptions are also read there, in the Greek
and Latin language, in different metres, in
honour of Achilles and Patroclus ; for Patradus
is there worshipped as well as Achilles. A
number also of aquatic birds are seen ; such as
the larus^ the diver, and the sea-quail. These
birds alone have the care of the temple. Every
morning they repair to the sea, wet their
wings, and sprinkle the temple ; afterwards
sweeping with their plumage its sacred pave-
ment." A further account of the superstitions
respecting the island is then added by the
author, who relates, that Achilles and Patroclus
appear in dreams to those who approach it
and tell them where to land j " all of which,"
says Arriaut ** appears to me to be veryjworthy
of credit.'' Many other authors, although of
less note, contribute by their descriptions
to the celebrity of this remarkable island.
Philostratus^ affords its dimensions, stating that
it is thirty stadia^ or three miles and three-
quarters, in length; and four stadia^ or half
a mile, wide : this account corresponds with
its appearance, from the distance at which it
was visible to us. It is further mentioned
by Pausanias^j and by Ammianus MarceUinu^.

(1) PhUottratus ill UeroiciB, (2) PoiMon. in Xaconicif.

(3^ Ammian, MarcelL bil. zxii/c. 8.

(4) The Turhs also believe the souls of men, after death, reside in
the bodies of birds.

(5) Fettui Avienus. Orbis Descriptione.

(6) Strab. lib. fiti.

TO INBADA IN TURKEY. 899

According to antient Poets, the souls of departed ^^^^^
Heroes enjoyed there perpetual repose and
felicitjr*. Festus Avienti^^ although erroneous
in his account of its situation, alludes to this
part of its history in the following lines :

** Ora Borysthenii qua flaminis in mare vergunt,
B regione procnl spectabit culmina Leaces ;
Lence cana jagum, Leuce sedes anlmamm."

In the number of antient writers by whom this
island is mentioned, several, as might he
expected, had confused and even false notions
of its position in the Euxine. Some of them
describe it as being opposite either to the
mouth of the Borysthenes or to that of the
TyrcLs; others, as lying between those rivers.
A few have confounded it with the neck of
land lying between the mouth of the Borys-
thenes and the Sinus Cardnites^ formerly called
the Bramtis Achillis, and now Kilbumu. Arrian
is the only author whose text may be recon-
ciled vnth the true situation of the island :
and next to his description, in point of accu-
racy, is that given by his predecessor, Strabo^.
Its modem names are, Ilan Adase^ and

400 VOYAQB FROM 0DBS8A,

Phidanw}. It is placed wroi^ in all the charts : in
some it is altogiether omitted ; indeed its exist-
ence has been doubted by modem geographers.
The best, and almost the only charts of the
Black SeOj are those printed in Paris; yet
even in these the Isle of Serpents lies 15 minutes,
or geographical miles, too far towards the
north. A greater error preyails respecting
the port of Odessa^ calculated to lead ships into
danger: this is placed at least 27' out of
its position towards the north. The great
obscurity which often prevails over the Bhck
Seaj during winter, renders it a fortunate event
to make the Isle of Serpents; not only, as was
said before, from the impossibility of descrying
the coast near the Danube, but because ships
are liable to run upon it during the night. The
principal cause of danger, however, must be

(1 ) It is laid down in the manuscript chart of Predutka of Antoona^
presenred in the Library otWd{fenb\ddf near Vienna^ under the nane
of Fidonixit and delineated as having a port. This chart bears date
A. D. 1497. Connt John PotocH, in its illustration, states that FidO'
Nixi signifies Ulede la Faff. The Count sailed from the Jhueptr te
Constantinople in 1784, and gives this account of the island, which he
passed during the voyage : '' •Tot fait moi'mSme ee trq/et en Pammit
1784, et n*ai pat manqui de demander t^il ne se trotaxni pa$ dans Vide
dee rettee de temple ou de quelque autre idifice. Von me rSpandoit aion,
qu'il itoU difficile d*y aborder ; tant pareeque la (Ate 6toit dangireuee que
pareeque la terre y itoU eouverte de serpents v6mmeuiXJ* Mteoire sur
un Kouveau Peryple du pont Euxin, par le Comte Jean Potcdd.
Vien. 1796.

TO INBADA IN TURKEY. ^401

attributed to the ignorance of pilots, and to c^^-
a deficiency of proper charts. We had on
board two excellent sextants, and observations
were daily made at noon : by these we found
our latitude to be 44^ 44'; the ship lying at the
time five leagues and a half to the south of
the island. A third sextant, on board the vessel
commanded by the Captain's nephew, was also
employed by him : this enabled us, by compa-
rison, to detect with greater certainty the errors
in the French charts.

Having passed the Isle of Serpents, we fell in
with the current from the Danube. So great is
the extent over which its waters difiiise them-
selves, owing to the shallowness of this part
of the Euxine^ that, although the discharge be
scarcely adequate to our notions of so con-
siderable a river, the efiect is visible for several
leagues, in a white colour thereby communicated
to the sea. Dipping buckets in the waves, we
observed that the water was almost sweet, at
the distance of three leagues from the mouth
of the river, and within one league it was fit
for use on board. The shore is flat all the way
from Odessa to the Danube ; and it is so low near ^^^®^

' Danube.

to the river's mouth, that no other object appears,
to those who approach the shore, than tall reeds
rising out of the water, or the masts of vessels

Mouths

402

CHAP.
X.

White
Dolphins.

VOYAGE FROM ODBSSA,

lying in the river. A singular appearance may
be observed in the Mouths of the Danube^ which
we are unable to explain. The Dolphins^ j
everywhere else exhibiting a dark colour, are
here perfectly white. This may wear so much the
air of a fable, that, in proof of the fact, we may
state a practice among Greek mariners, during
mists and dark weather, of ascertaining their
position by such phaenomena. As soon as they
descry the white dolphins^ they become assured
that they are within the , current of the Danube^
although in thirty fathoms water, and many
leagues distant from its mouth. It has been
already stated, that the water is itself of a white
colour; and probably irom this circumstance
arises the supposed colour of the dolphin^.

Obsenra-
tions on
board the
Moderator

After passing the Mouths of the Danube^ but
still being conveyed by its current, we observed
four mountains, with such regular conical forms,
and so singular as to their situation, in a horizon
otherwise perfectly flat, that we at first supposed
them to be immense tumuli. The Captain

(1) Dolphin is the name given to this fish in these seas ; and it is the
Delphinui of Pliny ; perhaps nothing more than our porpoise. It is
seen sporting in great abundance, and generally proceeding in pain,
through the Straits of Taman and of Constantinople,

(5) The notion of tokite dolphins in this part of the Black Sea
connected with the notions entertained by the Antienta of the
ness of the Island ofAchUles, and of the birds there seen.

TO INBADA IN TURKEY. 403

however assured us, that these mountains were at chap.
least twenty-three leagues distant, in Wallachia ;
our situation heing then about three leagues
from the shore. Soon after, another mountain
appeared in view; making the old groupe to
consist of five. Other elevations of less magni-
tude were afterwards visible ; but the coast is
generally low and flat.

November 2. — Our observation, by sextant

this day, proved our latitude to be 44**. 25' ; the
ship's distance from the Mouths of the Danube

being, at the time of the observation, five leagues

and a half. The water even here tasted very

little brackish. After heaving the lead, we found

a depth of one hundred and fifty English feet.

We had calm weather during this and the

preceding day.

Nofoember S. — The atmosphere was someiirhat
overcast. We discovered the coast indis-
tinctly from the mast head ; being then in thirty
fiithoms water. Our latitude at noon was
4y 3(y.

November 4^ — The atmosphere was this day
turbid. We had but little wind from the east,
but a great sea rose. From mid-day, until
five o'clock p. M. our course was s. s. w. ; at this

VOL. II. 2 D

404 VOYAOE FROM ODESSA,

CHAP, hour we descried Cape Kekgryj at the distance
of somewhat less than seven leagues. We were
unable to make any observation of the ship's
latitude. Cloudy weather, and a heavy sea.

Novembers. — The weather was still hazy: a
light wind prevailed from the east, and a tur-
bulent sea. Our crew observed, during the
day, that the vessel leaked, and made about an
inch of water in four hours, owing to the heavy
sea. At six in the evening there fell a calm,
when we discovered the coast j and at day-
break the next morning (Nov. 6th) observed
distinctly the land at the mouth of the Canal of
Constantinople^ distant about six leagues and a
half. All this morning we were animated by
the Captain with such hopes of entering the
Canal, that we expected to breakfast in Constant
tinople. During our short voyage from Odessa^
the Captain, by slackening sail continually for
his nephew's ship, which proved to be an indif-
ferent sailer, had regularly lost one league in
three ; and it happened, most unfortunately, that
we had to wait again, at the very mouth of the
Canal : by this delay we not only lost the
opportunity of getting in at that time, but
nearly sacrificed the crews and cargoes of both
ships. The copy from our log-book, which is
given in the Appendix^ will best tell what our

TO INEADA IN TURKEY. jQ5

situation was, in the dreadful storm that sue- chap.

Deeded. Landsmen are very apt to magnify the ^/^
dangers they encounter hy sea; but it will
appear that in this instance there was little room
for amplification. At mid-day we stood opposite
to the light-house of the Canal } this bore only
ten miles distant, towards the west: a calm,
accompanied by a heavy sea, prevented our
approach. During the evening, the crew wore
employed working the pumps.

November 7- — At sun-rise, the wind had p^eadfui

' ' Tempest.

gained considerable force, and the sails were
reefed. We still discerned the mouth of the

Canal, and even the light-house on the Asiatic
side. About ten, we took in all the reefs in
the main-topsail; and at noon, the wind still
increasing, struck the topsail-yards. A tre-
mendous sea rolled over the deck, from one side
to the other ; and the water in the hold increasing
&st, all hands were called to the pumps, which
were kept working continually. At four in the
afternoon we had our last view of the Canal,
distant about eight leagues. Within half an
hour afterwards, the Black Sea afforded a spec-
tacle which can never be forgotten by those who
saw it. We were steering with a hard gale and
heavy sea from s. s. w. when there appeared, in
the opposite horizon, clouds, in the form of

2 D ^2

406 VOYAGE FROM ODESSA, :

CHAP, pillars, dark and terrible j these were whirled
upon their bases, and advanced with astonishing
rapidity along the horizon, on either side, against
the wind. Our Captain, who had retired for a
short repose, being called by the boatswain to
notice this appearance, instantly ordered all
the yards to be struck ; and we remained under
bare poles, while an awful silence prevailed on
board. It was not of long duration. Suddenly
such a hurricane came upon the vessel from the
north-west, that we thought she would have
foundered, in the mere attempt to take it, as
the mode of expression is, in poop^. During
one entire hour, the ship was suffered to drive
before the storm, encountering all the fury of
the wind and sea, without being able to bear
away from the land. At every plunge our
vessel made, her bowsprit and forecastle were
earned under water : a few sailors at the helm
were lashed to the steerage, but almost every
thing upon the deck was washed away. If the
tempest had continued half an hour longer, no
one of the crew would have survived, to tell the
story. About five o'clock its force had some-
what abated ; and the Captain laid the vessel.

(1 ) Taking a gale in j9<}pa, if done by opposing Uie ship*! tl«m to
tlie wind, and letting her drive before it| under bare poles.

TO INEADA IN TURKEY.

407

as he termed it, a /a capa^^ hoisting the jib and chap.
a portion of the mainsail, to get clear of the
shore. Still the vehement agitation of the waves
continued, the deck being continually under
water. At isix o'clock a tempest began again
from the s. w. ; so that, owing to a swell from
two opposite points of the compass at the same
time, such a sea was raised as none of our
crew had ever beheld before. All this time
the leak was gaining fast upon us, and we
passed a fearful night. Two Turkish vessels
were seen towards sun-set, under the lee of
the Aronetto ; but both had foundered before
morning, and every soul on board had perished.
To increase the horror of our situation, scarcely
any one of the crew could be made to do his
duty : the sailors crept to their hammocks,
leaving the ship at the mercy of the sea.

The next day, ( Saturday ^ November 8<A,) at
noon, we made the high land to the south of
the Canal ; bearing s. w., and being distant
about ten leagues. The tempest continued as
before, during the whole of the day and of the
following night ; but we were able to work the

pumps, and thereby gained considerably upon

— - -

(S) ** A la capok' is pUciiig the ship in a diugonal ixMition, witii her
mdder to leeward, so that lier heud is kept to the sea^ but the Tessel
lies stationary upon the water.

4,Qg VOYAGE FROM ODESSA,

CHAP, the leak. Three hours after midsight, on the
morning of November Qth^ we made the coast of
Anatolia^ near to the mouth of the CanaL At
noon, this day, a calm succeeded, which was,
if possible, more terrible than the hurricane we
had experienced ; the ship continuing to labour
incessantly, with her deck continually under
water, the sails and rigging flying to pieces, and
all things being at the mercy of the waves.
The whole of Sunday^ November 9th, was passed
in the same manner, until about six o'clock p. m.,
when a light wind springing up from the south,
we were enabled to put the ship's prow to the
westward ; and about eight on the following
morning, November lOth, we again made the
land at the mouth of the Canal. The whole of
this day we continued steering, with a heavy
sea, towards the s. s. w.; but from midnight
until seven a. m. November Mth. a stormy wind
prevailing from the s. w., we kept the ship's
head w. and by n., when we discovered the
coast on the European side, and a mountain,
which the sailors called Gabbiam, to the n. w.
of the harbour of Ineada in Turkey. This
place is the Tiiynias of the Antients, a port
frequented by the Argonauts^. Towards noon,

(1) Sefi Stephanas f and Luc. Hohtenius upon Stepkanus. It should,
perhaps, hv written Tineada. See D'Auvillc, p. 244.

TO INEADA IN TURKEY. 4Qg

the weather, fortunately for us, became more cjhap.
calm ; as we discovered that the ship's cargo, s^%^^^
which was of com, had shifted ; the pumps be-
coming choked with her lading, and the vessel at
the same time preponderating towards her star-
board side. We therefore opened all her larboard
port-holes, and moved as much of her cargo as
possible ; but finding it impossible to right her,
and being to windward of the harbour of Ineada^
we put the ship^s head to the west, and, to our
great joy, at four o'clock p. m. came to an anchor
within the port, in six fathoms water.

The harbour of Ineada lies in 41** 52' of north Harbour of
latitude^ A few scattered houses upon its
shore carry on a small trade, in the occasional
supply of coffee, tobacco, dried beef, cheese,
curd, fruit, and fresh water, to -Turkish mari-
ners, and other navigators of the Black Sea.
Charcoal is also there made for exportation :
several fabrics, busy in its preparation, were
seen smoking near the beach, and upon the
hills above, when we arrived. The principal
part of it is sent to Constantinople^ where it is
almost the only article of fuel. Turkish boats
were continually lading with it, while we
remained. There is no village, nor any in-
habited spot, within three hours' distance of

(t2) Sec the Vignette ti) the next Chapter.

410 HARBOUR OF INBADA,

CHAP, this port*. The interior of the country was
described as being in a very dangerous state,
especiaUy the road leading to Adrianaple;
owing, not altogether to the adherents of the
rebel chief, Pasvan Ogloti, but to the number
of Turkish troops passing under various pre-
tences, and to the banditti which more or less
always infest this part of the country. Vessels
frequenting this harbour, generally prefer the
northern side of it ; where they find good
anchorage, among gravel mixed with black
sand^. It is only exposed to winds fi:*om the
east, and south-east ; and is sufficiently spacious
to contain a fleet. Like the port of Odessa^
however, it rather merits the appellation of a
road for shipping, than of a harbour; as a
heavy sea enters, when those winds blow to
which it lies open. At the time of our arrival,
there was hardly a single boat in the port : but,
before we left it, we noticed five large merchant
ships, besides upwards of thirty smaller Turkish
vessels, all riding at anchor. The latter were
stationed close to the shore on the north side :

(1) Distances in Turkey, and almost all over the Bast, are measured
by time; that is to suy, by the number of hoars usually employed bj
a caravan upon its march ', and these are estimated aceording to the
pace of a camel, which generally proceeds at the rate of three miles
an hour.

(S) See the VigiutU to the next Chapter.

IN TURKEY. * 411

here there were two coffee-houses ; which, in a chap.
Turkish harbour, answer to the brandy -shops, wn-%^
or ale-houses, frequented by English sailors in
their own ports ; coflfee being the substitute for
spirits or beer. In these coffee-houses may be
seen groupes of Turkish mariners, each party
being squatted in a circle around a pan of
burning charcoal, smoking, sipping coffee,
chewing opium, or eating a sort of , sweetmeat,
in shape like a sausage, made of walnuts or
almonds, strung upon a piece of twine, and
dipped in the inspissated syrup of new wine,
which has been boiled until it has acquired the
consistence of a stiff jelly, and bends in the
hand like a piece of the Indian-rubber. The
windows of these coffee-houses are like those
of a common English jail, being grated, and
without any glass casement ; and, as the inha-
bitants use no other stove to heat their chambers
than the little brasiers before mentioned, it is
probable that the climate is never rigorous.

When we landed, we found the earth, at this p^»"*»-
advanced season of the year, still covered with
flowers, many of which were imknown to us.
We collected five new species among the shrubs
upon the northern side of the harbour, towards
the point of the promontory ; a new species of
Senccioj ofFigwort, of Convolvulus^ of Hu^cusy and

412 HARBOUR OF INEADA,

of Hubus. A particular description of all of
them is subjoined in a Note ; together with the
list of others, whether common or rare, that
were here added to our herbary\ It is

(1 ) LA fine species of Sbnecio, hitherto undescribed, with the general
habit of an Aster, excepting the foliage; the flowers solitary,
about an inch broad, in long scaly pedanclet; the leaves un-
equally pinnatified, with the terminal lobe lanceolate. We have
called it Senecio flexuosa. Sbnecio corolla radiis plurimis,
paten HlnUf mqjusculis ; sqiuimis calycinia adpressis ; folUt lyraio^
pinimt\fidu laciniis integerrimis glabriuBCuliSf planis , caulibu*
striatis pilosis; pedunculis elongntitj multibracteaiia, flexuorit,
unifloris,
II. A new species of Fiowort, having much of the general habit of
Scrophulnria appetidiculata ; but differing, by the exhibition of
leaves sharply toothed at the base; finely ciliated, and perforated
with innumerable transparent spots; being also without appen-
dages, the peduncles and bracts, viscous and downy; and the
fiowers also shorter and broader than in the species mentioned.
We have called it Scrophularia olamdulipbra. Serophularia
racemo terminali composito ; foliis subcordato^vatiSf lato-dentatis,
minute punctatis, basi incequalibus ; petiolis pilis glauduX\feriM pu-
bc%centibiis,

III. A new shrabby species of Convolvulus, about two feet in height ;
the branches hairy and spreading, and, for the greater part of
their length, without leaves;, the leaves about an inch long; the
calyx hairy, about a third part the length of the corolla. This
species most resembles the Convoltmltis suffrutieosus of Professor
Desfontaines, but differs in having the fiowers not placed upon
long peduncles with linear opposite bracts, but at the ends of the
branches, and the corolla hairy. We have called it Convoltulus
PATENS. Convolvulus erectus, suffrutieosus; foliis iT^ferioribuSf
suhspatulatisj superioribus lanceolatiSy utrinque hirmtiSf elongatis,
inermibus, unifloris ; corollA extus hirsute.

IV. An elegant new f^pecics of Ruscu8, about a foot in height, the
branches densely crowded into a little oval bush ; the leaves, in-
cluding the tliorn at their point, from about half an inch to three
quartiTs in length ; euch having from eleven to thirteen strong

nerves

IN TURKEY. 413

interesting to notice circumstances of locality, chap.
even with reference to the most vulgar plants.
As it is necessary to give names to the new-
discovered species, the author will, in a single

nerves on both sides, giving them a singular ribbed appearance.
We have called it Ruscua dumosus. Ruscus pwnUus,rami» con"
fertisyfolih ovati8,mucroTuUo-pungentibuSf utrinque valide nervotis,
supra floriferia nudis.
v. The Re BUS Ckippsii mentioned in the Text. This carious plant
has leaves temate, inversely ovate, and almost circular. Their
superior surface is hairy and of a dark green colour; but their in-
ferior, white and cottony. The flowers appear in very large
bunches ujwn cottony foot-stalkf, and the upper part of the stem
is also a little cottony. Rubus Jruiicotwi, foliis crassis, tematiSf
hito-ohovaiU acutis, duplicato dentatU ; supra hirstitis; subtus
albidO'tomentosis ; aeuleiarecurvis ; paniciUis tertninalUmSf paiuUt.

The other plants collected in this very interesting botanidxU harbour
vrere as follow :

Scarlet Oak Qttercus coceifera. Linn.

Showy Autumnal Crocus . . Crocus speciosus. B^iberstein.*

Common Fluellin Antirrhinum Elatine, Linn,

Mumble Vervain Verbena nudiflora* Linn*

Common Pimpernel .... A nngallis arremis, Linn,

Woolly-spiked Beard-^rass . . Aiutropotjon IschtBmum. Linn.

Upright Cynanchum .... Cynanchum erectum, Linn,

Locii8t-i;radS Andropogon Gryllus. Linn.

Common Spleen wort .... A'plenium Ceteraeh. Linn,

.\tepi>o Corn Holcus Halepensit, Linn,

Common Nightshade . . . Solanum nigrum, Linn.

Wild Sage Salvia Sylvestris. Linn,

1) vers* Chamomile .... Anthemis tinctoria, Linn.
Solid-rooted Fumitory . . . Funmria solir'a. Smith,
Thorny Catch-Fly .... Silene spineycens. Sibthorp.

Calamint Thyme Thymus Cahtmintha. Smith.

Transylvania Scabious . . . Scabio84i Transylainiu. Linn.

•

This species is very distinct fiom tiie nudijlorus of Dr. Smith.

4,14 HARBOUR OF INEADA,

OHAP. instance, deviate from his usual method of
%^^/^ affixing characteristic appellations, and here
endeavour to commemorate the botanical re-
searches of his friend and companion, by deno-
minating the last-mentioned of the five, Rvbvs
Crippsii. When the first edition of this Part
of his Travels was prepared for the press, a
principal part of his herbary had been mislaid,
and the nature of the new-discovered species
from Ineada had not been accurately ascer-
tained. If he had visited this part of Turkey
at an earlier season of the year, it is probable
that other non-descript species would have been
observed. Wild figs appeared among the rocks.
We collected the seeds of several other plants.
The trees had not yet cast their leaves ; and we
were surprised to find the heat of the sun,
towards the middle of November^ too great to
render walking a pleasing exercise. We landed
on the evening of our arrival : and, as first im-
pressions are usually the most vivid in visiting
new scenes, it may be expedient to notice even
the trivial events that took place upon this
occasion.

Appear- jj ^^s nearly night. A number of Turkish

anceofthe ^ •^ ^

Turks. sailors, black and fearful, were employed lading
a boat with charcoal, singing during their labour.
Their necks, arms, and legs, were naked. They

IN TURKEY. 415

had large whiskers, and wore turhans ; the rest chap.
of their clothes consisted only of a short jacket
and a pair of drawers. As we proceeded from
the shore, a party of better-dressed natives
approached j every one of whom was differently
habited. One wore a long pelisse, with a high
Tahtar cap ; another, a large green turban ; a
third who was a Greek slave, at every one's call,
had upon his head a small scull -cap of red-cloth.
The heavy-looking Turks^ rolling their yellow
sleepy eyes, and exhaling volumes of smoke
from their lips, spoke to no one ; seeming to
think it labour to utter a syllyble, or even to
put one foot before the other. Some few
murmured out the word Salaam : upon this our
Captain congratulated us; adding, "The welcome
of a Turk and the farewell of a Russian^ are
pleasing sounds." Encouraged by this fa-
vourable character of the people, we applied to
one of them for a little brandy, which our crew
wanted ; but were instantly checked by the
Captain, who asked how we could think of
asking for brandy from a Turk ; and directed us
to make our wishes known to the Greek slave in
a whisper, who would find means to procure it
from them without offending their prejudices.
None however could be obtained ; tobacco^ wood,
charcoal, and coffee, were all they had at this

416 HARBOUR OF INEADA,

CHAP, time to sell ; so, after taking a little of the latter,
we returned on board.

During the night and the following day,
Turkish boats continued to sail into the harbour ;
the atmosphere being cloudy and very dark,
with a strong wind from the south, and a very
threatening aspect in the sky. Their pilots
said they came " to see what the moon would do*'
it being within three days of the change. The
next day we visited the north-west side of the
port, near to the coffee-houses. Close to the
shore appeared the ruin of an antient fnole\ a
part of which is under water ; and upon its
western side, as we passed in the boat, might
be discerned the shafts of antient colu7nns\ lying
at the bottom of the sea. Having landed, we
found the Turkish sailors with all the passengers
who had arrived in their vessels, seated as
before described, around pans of charcoal,
smoking tobacco. The master of the principal
coffee-house brought us coffee in little cups,
without milk or sugar, and made as thick as
we drink chocolate in England: at least one
half of each cup being filled with sediment
This, our interpreter told us, the Turks regard

(1) See the Vignette to the next Chapter.

(2) Ibid.

IN TURKEY. 4iy

as a proof of perfection in coffee prepared for chap.
use. The Reader perhaps will not fe^l himself .^J^
much concerned to be further informed respect-
ing such particulars, So fickle a thing is taste,
that Englishmen resident in Turkey soon learn
to prefer coffee made after the Turkish manner ;
and Turks after living in England^ drink their
coffee clear.

The following day a greater number of vessels
came into the harbour ; and many of the natives
flocked to the coast, to sell flesh and fruit, or to
gratify their curiosity in viewing the numerous
fleet then assembled. By much the greater
part assembled upon the shore were inhabitants
of the mountans that separate Adrianople from
the coast of the Black Sea. These mountains,
although they be not strictly Alpine^ seem to
possess great elevation, and between them are
many profound valleys covered with forests.
Oaks and other trees, flourish close to the sea.
The cattle consist of sheep, cows, and buffaloes.
The mountaineers, who came to Ineada^ ap- Mountain-
peared as wild and savage a race as the natives
of Caucasus : thev were in stature stout and
short : all of them carried arms, both as weapons
of defence, and as badges of distinction. Their
girdles were so laden with carabines, pistols,
knives, and poignards, that, besides their

een.

418 HARBOUR OF INBADA,

CHAP, cumbrous size, the mere weight of their weapons
v^^y-^ must prove a serious burden. The handles of
their pistols and poignards were made as tawdry
as possible ; being richly mounted in silver, and
studded with ivory, mother-of-pearl, and pre-
cious stones. Upon their heads they wore caps
of black wool ; and over these, coarse turhans,
bound about the forehead and temples. Upon
their shoulders they carried the same kind of
short cloak made of felt, or fleece, which is
worn by the Circassian mountaineers ; firom
whom they only seem to differ in being more
heavily armed, and in wearing the turban.

As their numbers increased, our visits to the
shore became less frequent ; not in consequence
of any immediate danger to which our lives were
- exposed, but owing to the insults likely to be
offered by a lawless tribe of men, not very
amicably disposed towards each other, and
under no government. The noise of their dis-
putes reached even to our vessel, as she lay at
anchor. The Turkish sailors belonging to the
little fleet of boats behaved better ; and from
these we often purchased tobacco, bread, brandy,
honey, and other necessaries.

PiUm^ Upon the north side of this port is a series of

basaliic columns^ forming part of the cliff towards

IN TURKEY. ^jg

tlie sea : they are distinguished by circumstances ciyip.
of mineral association, which merit particular
notice. Upon the same side of the coast, to
the westward of the basaltic range, the strata
consist of a secondary deposit, inclining to the
hwizon at an angle of about thirty-five degrees.
Then occur the pillars in prismatic forms ; pre-
serving, by the line of their bases, exactly the
same dipping inclination towards the level of
the sea, and continuing the whole way to the
extreme point of the promontory, upon the
northern side of the port of Ineada. There is not
a single appearance anywhere, in or near the
harbour, to indicate the agency of subterraneous
fii^ The strata are of lumachellaf of ochreous
indurated clay^ of common limestone^ or of sand-
stone : these are all terminated by the range of
prismatic rocks, ending abruptly at the point of
the promontory} their further extension being
lost in the sea. Therefore, as this series of
basaltic rocks preserves the same dipping in-
clinatum which is possessed by all the other
strata^ it seems manifest, upon the most super-
ficial examination, that it was deposited after
the same manner; and, by attending to the
internal structure and composition of the pillars^
this truth appears to be further established.
Their form is generally hexagonal; but it is
rarely perfect. The substance of which they

VOL. II. Sf £

4^ HARBOUB OF IlTBADA,

^^z.^' consist is a decomposed and crvaskhhig parphj/ryf
^^^^"^ so imperfectly adhering, tiiat upon the slightest
shock it falls to pieces. Climbing the sides of
the cliff. We found it to be dangerous eren to
place our feet upon any of those jnllars ; whole
masses giving way with the touch, and^ felling
down, were instantly reduced to the «tate of
gravel. Nuclei of an aluminous substance might
be discerned in the very centre of theic idiafts ;
and white veins, of an exceedingly scA arum*
bling sefni-transparent matter, not half an inch
in thickness, traversed the whole range^ in a
direction parallel to the base of the columns.
The vertical fissures between all the pillars were
filled with a white kind of marble, forming a line
of separation between them, which prevented
their lateral planes from coming into contact^
Those vertical veins, thus coating the sides of
the coltimns, we^ in tonie instances three
Theory of inchcs in thickness. From all these facts, it
gi^. ^"' seems evident that the basaltic pillars of Ineada
have been the result of an a((ueous depositimi ;
and that their prismatic configuration, like that
of starchy or the natural columns of trap, seen at

(1) A similar incrustation of ztclite soay be obaerred upon tiie
lateral planet of the pillan at StqffOf and upon the north eoest of
* Ireland ; also of sparry carbonate of lime in pU'eoal^ when it ezhSbita a
near approach towards crystallizi^^kni.

IN TtTRKBT. 4gX

Mattd^erg and Hunneherg in Sweden^ and in many chap.
other parts of JEurapej is entirely owing to
CRTSTALLizATiONy which is equally displayed
in the minutest and in the most majestic forms ;
which, while it prescrihes the shape of an
emerald, or planes the surface of a mountam%
does always tend to a regularity of structure,
more or less {perfect, in proportion as the laws
of cohesion have heen modified or interrupted hy
disturbing causjes*.

(S) Witnew tha rtmarkable retolt of crystallization exhibited by
'•the P^aUhed MawMm/* near 8t. Bernard in the Alpt, described by
Sautntre. The author Tisited this mountain in 1794, and obserred,
upon its polished sorfkcey that striated appearance which is visible upon
the planes of any crystal, when examined with a lens.

(8) The most eminent mineralogist of the present age considers the
prismatic configuration of basaltes to be owing to a retreat: and with
an deference to his great authority, it may be urged, that all crys*
tallixation is the result of a retreating flnid; whether of the fluid
natter of heat, or of any ottier, wherein eolutiim has been eflbcted.

Se 2

CHAR XL

FROM THE HARBOUR OF INSADA IN THB BLACK 8BA,

TO CONSTANTIIfOPLE.

Voyage to Constantinople — Entrance of the
Canal — Return to the Cyanean Isles — Geo^
logical Phtsnomena — Votive Altar — Sin^
gular Brecaa — Origin of the Thracian Bos-
porus— Antiquities — Of the Temple of Jupiter

HARBOUR OF INEADA. 4^

VriuSf and the place caUed Hieron — Probable
Situation o/* Darius when he surveyed the Euxine
— Approach to Constantinople — Disgusting Ap^
pearance of the Streets —Arrival at Galata —
Pera — State of Turkish Commerce*

vJn Friday^ November the twenty-first^ at ten ^|f ^*
o'clock in the erening, a bustle in the little fleet ^''^
of TurKsh boats announced that they were all Comton-
getting to sea as fast as possible. The wind had
veered, after a foggy day, to the w. s. w. ; and
the atmosphere became perfectly clear. Our
Captain, following their example, as perhaps
deeming them more experienced mariners of the
Black Sea, ordered his crew to weigh the anchor.
When it came on board, we found it had lost
one of its flukes : this the sailors considered as
a bad omen ; and some of them said, if we left
the port with such an anchor, we should never
have occasion to use another. We were how-
ever under weigh ; and, spreading all the great
sails to the wind, soon quitted the harbour of
IneadOf steering to the south-east. At three in
the morning of the SSd, we were becalmed, and
a hazy atmosphere surrounded us on all sides.
At four, it began to blow a gale firom the north ;
and we made our course e. and s. until eight,
when we discovered the coast near the mouth of
the Canal of Constantinople^ and then steered s. e.

XI.

424 VOYAGB FROM INEADA,

CHAP. Scarcely had we made the land, when a heavy
rain fell : this continued till mid-day ; and we
were inTolred in such darkness, that those
in the poop could hardly see the forecastle.
Ahout noon» the wind having abated, and a pro-
digious sea rolling, the weather again cleared :
we then discovered the light-tower cm the
European side of the Canal, at no great distance.
The boatswain first gave us the agreeable
intelligence from the mast-head : soon after, we
all saw it firom the deck, stationed at the base of
an immense range of mountains. At the same
time, the whole coast, both upon the European
and the Asiatic side, appeared with a degree of
grandeur not to be described; like a vast wall
opposed to the great bed of waters, in which
the mouth of the Canal could only be compared
to a small crack, or fissure, caused by an earth-
quake. Soon afterwards, a fog covered us again,
and we once more lost sight of land. We were
then envel(^ed in such thick darkness, that we
began to despair, and to dread another scene of
trial in that terrible sea, so properly termed bv
the Antients a AEN02 inhospitable ^ The supersti-
tion of the crew served however to amuse us,
even in this state of suspense. Our old pilot, a

0 ) '* Friglda me cohibent Bvunmi littom PoDti ;

Dktai ab antiqvis Axbhub tile ftdt.**

Omd. Ub. hr. 3V<i<. JEfof. IV.

TO OONSTAHTINOPLB. 4^

Greeks hobbled about the ship, oollecting small chap.
pieces of money from the crew : these he tied
up in a rag, and bound upon the pole of the
rudder : it was '' to buy oil," he said, ** for the
lampbuming before an image at the light-house;''
a curious vestige of more antient superstition^
when mariners, entering the Bosp(yrm from the
JEuxinej paid their vows upon the precise spot
where the Phandrij or light-tower, now stands*.
About half aft^r one p. m. our hopes revived :
a general cry on board announced that we were
dose in with the land. Two littie Turkish boats,
like nautiUf had been flying before us the whole
day, serving as guides, to encourage our perse-
verance in the course we held. Without these^
the Captain said he could not have ventured to
carry such a press of sail upon a lee-^shore,
covered as it was by darkness. The rapidity
with which they sailed was amai^ng. Nothing
could persuade the Captain but that they were
** due angdx ;" and, in proof of this, he declared
that they vanished as soon as they entered the
Straits. We now clearly discern^ the mouth
of the Canal, with the Cyanean I$le8\ and the

(2) Xmaphtm. Hiit OracUb. Tii.pp. 880, 413.

(3) ** Anteqaam in Bosphomm renias, leopali duo, qiuM Cyanetf et
Sjmplegadef oUm Qneei dizenmty ad dexteram io ipso Ponti ottio
oecammt ; in qaonim nno eolumna retos h marmoffe candidiMimo, qoam
Tolgiii Pompeii aomiaat, potita eti." JDouim lUr Qnuiant. p. SO.

X. Bat. leoo.

436 VOYAOB PROM INBADA,

CHAP. land both on the JEuropean and on the Amatic
v^-v-^/ side; the houses upon the shore iiacing the
Black Sea ; and an enliyenmg prospect of groves
and gardens. Every preparation was made for
terminating our perilous voyage ; the hoU being
opened to let out the anchor cables, and the
crew expressing their transports by mirth and

congratulations.

Entnnctt As WO entered the Straits, a miserable lantern.
Canal: placcd upou a tower on either side, exhibited
all that was intended to serve as guidance for
seamen during the night. Never were light-
houses of more importance, or to which less
attention has been paid. An officer of the custmns
put off from the shore in his boat ; but con-
tented himself with merely asking the name of
the Captain, and did not come on board. After
passing the light-house, we saw some fortresses,
the works of French engineers ; and their ap-
pearance upon rugged rocks has a very striking
effect \ Presently, such a succession of splendid
objects was displayed, that, in all the remem-
brance of his former travels, the author can
recall nothing to which it may be compared.
A rapid current, flowing at the rate of a league

(1) That on the European side was the work of Bwrtm de ToiL

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 437

SAI
XL

an hour, conveyed us from the Black Sea. Then chap.

as we were musing upon the sudden discharge
of such accumulated waters by so narrow an
aqueduct, and meditating the causes which first
produced the wonderful channel by which they
iare conveyed, we found ourselves to be trans*
ported, as it were, into a new world. Scarcely
had we time to admire the extraordinary beauty
of the villages scattered up and down at the
moutb of this Canal, when the palaces and
gardens of the European and of Asiatic Turks, the
villas of foreign ambassadors, mosques, minarets,
mouldering towers, and the ivy-mantled walls
of antient edifices,* made their appearance.
Among these we beheld an endless variety of
objects, seeming to realize tales of enchantment :
fountains, ccBmeteries, hills, mountains, terraces,
groves, quays, painted gondolas, and harbours,
presented themselves to the eye in such a rapid
succession, that, as one picture disappeared, it
was succeeded by a second, more beautiful
than the first\ To the pleasure thus afibrded.

(S) ^ BocpiuMri deztmm lata* loiigifKiD& oppidoram lerie pnetexi-
tor. Slnistmm non tern ndifldls oblectatkmi dieatif, quun coUilms
fhietiferis, hortiaqoe RegHs colliieet: qacw tiiigiilM <iiiid alind esse
dicsm, qoam Thessalica, ilia Tempe amcBniisima, fed Umg^ anKBniorl,
niii ea Lapitha Centanri haod seeut qoam Hetperidnm pomaria draco
ille, coitodlrent, pxoculque spectatoret arcerent." Doutm Iter Con*
ttanlinop, p. 21, L, Bajt, 1000.

XI.

42g VOYAGE FROM IN EAIM,

CRAP, add also the joy of having escaped the dangers
of an mhospitable sea } and it may he readily
conceived, that a combinaticm of circumstances
more calculated to affect the heart can seldom
occur. All our apprehensions and prejudices,
respecting the pestilence, the barbarism, the
vices, and the numberless perils of Turkey^
vanished. Unmindful of the inward deformities
of the country, we considered only her splendid
vesture. Suddenly, our vessel, instead of adr
vandng, although every sail were distended by
the wind, remained immoveable in die midst
of the Canal. An extra(Nrdinajry and contrary
current held us stationarv* The waters of the
Bhck Sea, after flowing for ages towards the
Sea of Marmoray had suddenly taken an opposite
course, and were returning to their native bed.
At a loss to account for this new ajqpearance,
the Captain ordered his men to let go the
smaller anchor; and a number of Turksj in
their gondola^ crowding around the Moderator
informed us of the cause. A south-west wind
had prevailed during many days, and, by its
violence, diverted the ordinary course of the
current. It became necessary, therefore^ to
wait until a change took' place ; and an oppor-
tunity was offered, not only of examining more
attentively the scenery around us, but also of
making inquiry into the natural history of a

XI.

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. ^gg.

country, as remarkable for its physical phsno* ^^^^'
mena as for the interest afforded by its antient
history.

We had passed the town of B&y&ckdery^ a
sort of watering-place, whither foreign ministers
at the Porte retire daring the sunmier months :
this place is filled with villas and palaces be-
longing to the inhabitants of Pera. Our vessel
was anchored opposite to YeniAeuy^ a similar
retreat of less celebrity. Here the Canal is so
narrow, that we were able to converse with
persons upon either side, in Europe or Asia.
The late hurricane had unroofed, and otherwise
damaged, several houses in both these towns.
During the night after our arrival, a storm
raged with such fiury from the north, that the
Modemto and the AronettOj although held by
stout cables fastened round the trees upon the
shore, as well as by t^ir anchors, drove firom
tiMtr stations during the vidence of the gale.
Soon alter midnight we were called by the
watch to notice a dreadful conflagration in CSm-
fitantifnople^ which seemed to fiU the horizon
with fire, and exinbited an alarming spectacle
from our cabin windows. The sight is however
so common, that we were told we should find
no notice taken of the accident when we reached
the cUy, which proved to be the case. The

430 VOYAGE FROM IN£ADA,

CHAP, burning of fifty or a hundred houses is consi-
«^v^ dered of no moment by persons who are not
themselves the sufferers } the buildings are soon
supplied by others, constructed precisely after
the plan and model of those which have heen
destroyed.

On the foUowing morning, a contrary wind
and current still prevailing, notwithstanding
the gale which had blown from the north during
the night, we dispatched our interpreter to
Canstantinaple^ to inform the British Ambassador
of our safe arrival; to provide lodgings; and
also to bring our letters. In the mean time,
having procured a large boat with a set of stout
gondoliers, we were resolved to venture as hx
Return to as the islands antiently called QfonetB^ or Symr
AiMOfUsict. plegadeSf lying off the mouth of the CanaL The
accurate Busbeqtdu^ confessed, that, in the few
hours he spent upon the Black SecL^ he could
discern no traces of their existence: we had,
however, in the preceding evening, seen enough
of them to entertain great curiosity concerning
their nature and situation, even in the transitory
view afforded by means of our telescopes. Strabo
correctly describes their number and situa-
tion. ** The Cyanem** says he, '* in the mouth

(1) Bu9b€ptUul'9 Travel in 2Wlliy, Epitt L •

XI.

TO COHSTANTIWOPLB. 431

of PantuSf are two little isles, one upon the chap.
Eurapearij and the other upon the Asiatic side
of the Strait; separated from each other by
twenty stadu?.^ The more antient accounts,
representing them as sometimes separated, and
at other times joined together, were satisfac-
torily explained by Toumeforf ; who observed,
that each of them consists of one craggy island ;
bat that, when the sea is disturbed, the water
oovers the lower parts, so as to make the
difierent points of either resemble insular rocks.
They are, in fact, each joined to the main land
by a kind of isthmus, and appear as islands
when this is inundated ; which always happens
in stormy weather. But it is not certain that
ihe isthmus, connecting either of them with the
continent, was formerly visible. The disclosure
has been probably owing to that gradual sinking
of the level of the Black Sea, before noticed.
The same cause continuing to operate, may
hereafter lead posterity to marvel what is
become of the Cy€me(B ; and this may also
account for their multiplied appearance in ages
anterior to the time of Strabo. The main object
of our visit was not, however, the illustration of
any antient author, in this particular part of

(S) Sirab, Geogr. lib. tU. p. 403. ed. Oxam.
(3) Voy. da Xiv. Lett XV.

492 V<0Y4OB FROM IKBADA, .

CHAP, their history ; hat to BB^rtaia, if pomble, hy
v^iv^^ the geological phenomena of the coast, the
nature of a roTolution, which opened the re-
markable channel* at whose mouth those islands
are situate.

Ph^^^ For some time before we reached the entrance
mend. (^ ^\^q Canal, steering close along its JBwrapean
side^ we observed in the cliffii and faillsy even
tx> their summits, a remarkaUe aggregate of
heterogeneous stony substa«^es, nnmded by
attritien in water, imbedded iii a hard natmral
cement, yet differing from the usual appiearanoe
of breccia rocks ; for, upon a nearer exammatum,
the whole mass appears to have nndezgone^
first, a violent action of fire, and seoondlyy
that d^ree of friction in water, to which fheir
form mukt be ascribed. Breccia rocks* do not
commonly consist of substances so modified.
The strcUum fi>rmed by this singular aggregate^
and the parts composing it, exhibited, by die
circumstances of their position, a strikmg proof
of the power of an inundation ; Imving dragged
along with it the constituent parts of the mix-
ture, over all the heights above the present
level of the Biack Sta, and deposited them
in such a manner as to leave no doubt but
that a torrent had there passed towards
the Sea of Mamwra. All the strata of the

. TO coicsTAirriicoPLE. 453

mountains, and each individual mass composing ^^^^*
them, lean from the north towards the south, v^ev^
At the point of the JEurapean light-house, we
found the sea still tempestuous, beating against
immense rocks of a hard and compact kwa:
these rocks have separated prismaticaUy, and
they exhibit surfaces tinged by the oxide of

• From^ this point we passed to the Cyanean votiTe
IsUf upon the JSuropean side of the Strait $
and there landed. It is remarkable for an
altar of white marble^ long known under the
name of Pompeifs Pillar* Whence it received
this a^^Uation, it is perhaps impossible to
ascertain. If the representation given in
Sandys' Travds be corrects there once stood
a column upon this altar. He describes, it as
^^apiUer of white marble, called vulgarly, The
PiUer of Pompey: the basis whereof did beare
these now wome-out characters* :

DIVO • CAESARI • AVGVSTO •
L . CLANNIDIVS
L . F . CLA . PONTO "

(1) Sam^' TrtTdt, p. 40. ed. 8. Lond, 109^

(8) WheUr gives a different reading of this inacription ; and hat
endeavoured to reconcile his legend with names recorded by CMiter.
See WMm^i Jmamey, ^ Land, ISSS. p. 207. Leundaviut, and

Cfeorpe

434 VOTAQB FROM INSADA,

^xi^' If by the basis he meant the altar^ the cha-
racters are no longer visible ; at least they
escaped our observation. Sandys was too ac-
curate a vnriter to insert such an inscriptioii
without authority. Toumefart* confirms what
he has said, by giving a description of the
pillar^ although the sea would not permit him
to examine it closely; and he adds, that the
base and shaft were not made for each other.
Accordmg to him, it was a Corinthian pillar,
about twdlve feet high, placed, perhaps, as a
guide to vessels. The history of the altar is
preserved by Dianymu of Byzanlium\ who
relates,' that an altar to Apollo was placed upon
this rock; whereof, says Toumefortf the base
of this pillar may be a remnant ; for the festoons
are of laurel-leaves, which were firom a tree
sacred to that God. The altar remains endre ;
the loss of the column has only restored it to
its original state. The festoons are supported

Cfeorge Doum who TisKed the spot In 1760, gite the retding •■ it hai
been here paUIehed. Perhaps Sandyi copied tiie Inseriptloa fturn
Ikmaa^ whoee work It now exceedingly rare. ^ In bed hijaa Cohimnai
Inscriptionem Latlnls Uteris inclsam animadvert!, cstemm ita Tetas-
tate temporis exesam, nt si earn J. LnmcHmAui V. IC. et in hoc stn-
dionun genere hand tralatldft Teraatnsy noo enilasety a aemine legl
postet." DoMMB Iter Ccmtamlimp. p. 20. L, Bml. 1000.

(3) Voysge dn Leo Lett XV.

(4) Dtonysiais BffuaUuLh ^pod G^2ttiaii| de Bo^pK Tkrme. lih.
ilLc6.

XI.

(6) During m tubfeqnent Tisit which we made to this isle, with the
Commander^ an American frigate, one of his boat's crew attempted
to break off a part of the sculpture with a large sledge-hammer ;
imtigated bj an inferior officer, who wished to carry home a piece of
the marble. We were fortunate in preTcnting a second blow, although
•ome injury was done by the first. The loss the Fine Arts have
•ostafBfd, in this way, by our own countrymen, in Oreeee and JBgypt,
eanoot be too much regretted. A better taste seems, howefcr, about
to prevaiL The example of Sir J. Stuart, who prevented the destruc-
tion of the granite SareophaffUi in the great Pyramid of DJisa, by his
poritire orders to those of our troops in Bgypt, who were under his
comwiand, deser? es the commendation of all JBurope.

(6) See Vaifogt du Lev, Lett. XY. addressed to the French Secretary
of State.

VOL. II. 2 F

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 4S5

by rams' heads, a mode of decoration common to chap.
many of the altars ofAntient Greec^. The shores
c^ this extremity of the Thrajdan Bosporus were
onoe covered by every description of volwe
offering ; by tablets, altars, shrines, and temples ;
monmnents of the fears or the gratitude of
mariners, who were about to brave, or who
had escaped, the dangers of the Euxine. Owing
to their peculiar sanctity, the different places
in the mouth of the Strait were all included
under one general appellation of 'lEPA* The
remains of those antiquities were so numerous,
even in the time of Toumefort, that he describes
the coasts ^^as covered by their ruins f* and
almost every thing concerning them in antient
history has been detailed with equal brevity
and learning, in his description of the Canal of
the Black Sea\

436 VOYAQB FROM IN£ADA,

To return, therefore, to the immediate purport
of our visit upon this occasion. The structure
B^^eciL of the rock, whereof the island consists, corre-
sponds with the nature of the strata alreadj
described; but the substances composing it
were perhaps never before associated in anj
mmeral aggregate. They aU appear to have
been more or less modified by fire, and to have
been cemented during the boiling of a volcana
In the same mass may be observed fragments
of various-coloured lava^ of trap^ of hcualt^ and
oi marble. In the fissures appear agate^ chair
cedant/9 and guartz^ but in friable and thin veins,
not half an inch in thickness, deposited post-
erior to the settling of the stratum. The agate
appeared in a vein of considerable extent,
occupying a deep fissure not more than an
inch wide, and coated by a green earth,
resembling some of the lavas of ^tna^ which
have been decomposed by acidiferous vapours.
Near the same vein we found a substance
resembling native mercury, but in such ex-
ceedingly minute particles, and in a crumbling
matrix, that it was impossible to preserve a
specimen. The summit of this insular rock is
the most favourable situation for surveying the
mouth of the Canal : thus viewed, it has the
appearance of a crater, whose broken^ sides
were opened towards the Black Sea^ and, by a

TO CONSTANTINOPLB. 437

smaller aperture, towards the Bosporus. The chap.
Asiatic side of the Strait is distinguished hy v^v^*
appearances similar to those already described ;
with this difference, that, opposite to the island,
a little to the east of the Anatolian light-house, a
range of basaltic pillars may he discerned, stand-
ing upon a base inclined towards the sea;
and when examined with a telescope, exhi«
biting: very regular prismatic forms. From all origin of

^ , the 7%m-

the preceding observations, and after due danBoi^
consideration of events recorded in history,
as compared with the phsenomena of Nature,
it is, perhaps, more than probable, that the
bursting of the Thradan Bosporus, the deluge
mentioned by Diodorus Siculus, and the draining
of the waters once uniting the Black Sea to the
Caspian^ were all the consequence of an earth-
quake caused by subterraneous fires, which
were not extinct at the time of the passage
of the Argonauts, and whose effects are still
visible*.

(1) PlaiOf in the third book of the Laws, mentions three floods, as
having happened in Oreeee. These appear to be, 1. That of Lyeaon
recorded by the Arundel Marbles, less than a century prior to the
Trqjan War. 2. That of Deuealion, who lived about three centuries
and a half before this war, according to the Arundel Marbles. 3. Tha
of Offffges : this, according to Julian Solinus -and others, happened
000 years before that of DeuealioHf and consequently about 1000
before the war of Troy,

2 F 2

438 THROUQH THB THEACUN BOSPORUS,

The antiquities of the Thracian Bosporus have
been noticed in a cursory manner by many

ti^. ^'"" travellers. The Abbi Barthelemt/, in his Travels
of Anacharsist has upon this subject been
particularly deficient, considering the extent of
his resources, and the importance of the dis-
cussion to the work he had undertaken\ By
ascertaining the nature of the worship, and die
antiquity of the temples, founded by the earliest
inhabitants of the Bosporus upon its shores,
some notion might be formed of the »ra whea
the channel itself was laid open. Formaleanif
whose writings have been before cited, has en«
tered somewhat diffusely into the inquiry ; and
a reference to his Work* will be useful to those
who seek for information in this respect.

Of the Toumefort considers the situation of the castles

Temple of •^

^puer upon the European and Asiatic sides of the
the place Strait as marking the sites of the antient fanes
HixRon. of Jupiter Serapis and of Jupiter Urius^ called by
Strabo^ respectively, the Temples of the Byzassr
tines, and of the Chalcedonian^ . The latter
seems to have been the sanctuary which was
held in supreme veneration: the district in
which it stood being called, by way of eminence.
TO 'lEPON. This appellation is noticed by

(1) Veyage d* Anaehar$e, torn. I.

(2) Hbt. PhUos. et Polit. da Comm. ftc. daofl Im Mtr Nobrt.

(3) Strabon. Oeogr. lib. Tii. p. 469. ed. Ojmm.

-<.

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 4S9

Herodotus^ Demostlienes^ Polybim^Arrian^ Proco- ^^V*'
piusy Mardanusj and bv Dionysms of Byzantium ; \^f^
some of whom e::pressly declare that it was
used to signify the Temple of Jupiter Urius* : on
which account writers maintain, that it was
from this temple Darius surveyed the JSuxine^
as mentioned by Herodotus ; but Herodotus does situation
not specify the name of the fane, whence the ^^^^
prospect was aflFbrded. The fact is, that the JJ^®^®*
Hiero7i was not a single temple, but a town and -E'"***'-
a port, containing a fane of great sanctity
within its district, situate upon the Asiatic side
of the Bosporus^. "The Thracian Bosporus j^* ob-
serves Polybiu^f "is ended at a place called
Hieron; in which Jasorif at his return from
Colchis, is said first to have offered sacrifice to

(4) The ftothor ban endearoured to collect and compare the refe-
'encet ; bat the Header may find yet other authoriUea. Herodot, Md^
pom. 85 ; DemottlL in Orat. ado, PolyeUrn, et in al. loe. ( Vid, Taylor
in Pn^at. Comment, ad L. Deeenm, p. 7, f^,) ; Arrian. Peripl, Pont.
Emx. adflntm ; Proeop, de JSdif', Justinian, lib, iz.; MarHan. Beta"
tieoi. edit, Oxon. ; Oeogr, Vet, Script, Minor, p, 09 ; Pdyb. Uitt, lib, i?.;
J)iony$* Byzant, apud GylL lib, iii. c. b. Of this nnmber Arrian and
Marekmuo etate, that the Hieron was so called from the temple of
Japlter Urius. J>ionyriMM qf Byzantium says* it was a fane huilt by
Pkryxu»f in his Toyage to Colchis. It is not easy to reconcile the
aeooont giren by Herodotus with the common notions of the situation of
the temple, or with the position of the modem town of Joro, or Joron,
at the month of the Strait; since, according to Herodotus^ the Hieron ^
at which Darius sat, might have been one of tlie Cyanean Isles.

(5) Its name is still preserved in the appellation of a modern town
JfoeOf or Joron.

(6) Po/yUvf, lib. Ir.c, 6. The passage is given from .^omp^on.

XI.

440 THROUGH THE THRACIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, the twelve Gods. This place, although sitoate
in Asia^ is not far removed from JEurap& ; being
distant about twelve stadia only from the Temple
of SerapiSf which stands opposite to it, upon the
coast of Thrace.'^ Marcianus also calls Hieran a
country or district\ A due attention to the
features of the country may now perhaps
ascertain the position of the Eastern monarch.
If he were tlien placed near to any temple, or
upon any point of land, called Hieroih low down
towards the shore of the Strait, he could not
have been gratified with the prospect he sought
to obtain : nor does the text of Herodotus admit
of such an interpretation^ In our return from
the Cyanean IshSf we landed opposite to
Buy&ckdei'y^ upon the ^r^yronion Gzpe*, in order
to examine the particular emmence still bearing
the name, mentioned by Dionysius Byzantinus\
of the ''Bedofthe Giant;' ox '' Bed of Hercules."*
We there found the capital of a very antient
column, of the Ionic order, not less than two
feet and a half in diameter. It had been

(1) Marctani Heradeote Peripl. 09. ed. Oxmu 1608.

'* And sitting at the Hienm, he beheld the admbrahle Pantme." Herodei.
Mdpom, 85.

(3) See Banduri Imperhan OrientdU: Anaphu Boep. Tkrae, ex
indag, P. OylL ^.

(4) « Herculis KAINH, hoc est, Leetui." JDumys. Bezant, optuf
GylHum, lib. liL e. 6.

TO C05STA^m50FLS. 441

bellowed ; and it now serres as a Tase» near to craf.

^ XL

the residence of the Derrbh, who relates the

idle superstitions of the country ccmceming the
mountain, and the giant supposed to be there
bnried^ It is therefore cTident, that a tranple
of considerable magnitude once stood in this
situation ; because the present inhabitants would
never hare been at the pains to convey such a
mass of marble to this place', although they may
have thence removed all the other materials of
the temple, by rolling them down the mountain.
Upon this spot the author made a sketch of the
opening into the JB/ocA Sea; shewing the European

(5) The fiOdet which have been related of Uie Oiamt and his jctwI-
ekrehmH their origin in the annals of more remote history. They
refer to tlie story of Amyeugf king of Bitkifnia (called by ValerUtB
Fbieau,Argoiuaa.UbAr.v.900. ' the GionV) who was killed by Potf lur,
the SCO oiJupUer, His tomb is mentioned by antient authors ; and if
tradition hare presenred the memory of the place where it was situate
the origin of the temple will be thereby illustrated.

(6) Daring a subsequent risit to the same plaee, the author was
accompanied by Mons. Premtx, artist in the ser? ice of Mr. Sptneer
Sndtkf late Minister at the Porte, Mons. Preaux made a drawing of
Hils lome capital ; which is now in Mr. Smiih*9 possession. Although
the discorery of such a relic, so situate* may senre to prore the
former existence of a temple there, it by no means necessarily follows
that this was the temple of Jupiter Uriu»: the temples of Jupiter were
generally, if not uniTcrsally, constructed of the Doric order. At the
same time, the text of Mareiamu decidedly shews that Ilieron was a
name giren to a whole district on the Aeiatie side of the Boeporue, and
not merely to a single temple. The temple of Jupiter Urius stood in
the country called Hierom ; as appears by the following passage of that
author. Kflrcu xt'piov 'Upov KoXovfitvoVf U if vt^c ^^^"^ ^^ O^pioti
wpovayopovfuvo^. Mare. Herae* p. OD.

442 THROUGH THB THRACIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, light-house upon the point of the Lydans^ at the
extremity of the Canal ; the ruins of an anti^[it
castle on the Asiatic side, the Arx Munfta, men-
tioned hy Diont/sius Byzantms, as being situate
above the temple built by Phryxus ; and a small
port in front, below the castle, perhaps antiently
that of Hieronj mentioned by the same writer,
as the common haunt of all persons navigating
the Bosportis^. If the appearance of the £uxinef
and of the mouth of the Bosporus, were not
delineated from the precise spot whence they
were viewed by Darius, it is certain that the
prospect he surveyed was nearly the same.
The temples, indeed, belonging to the Hierd?
have disappeared, but the features of Nature are
unaltered ; the same tremendous chasm which
once conducted the waters of an immense
ocean to overwhelm the territories of Antient
Greece, now a£Pords a passage to the fleets of
the world, bearing the tributary wealth of
nations ; while its aspect, then so fearful, pre-
sents every assemblage that can captivate the
eye. The Bosporus of Thrace, in whatsoever

(1) See the Quarto Edition.

(2) '^ PoBt Ciielas esae nuncupatam Hierorty hoc est Faman k Phrjzo
Ne])hel» et Atbamantis fiUo a^diflcatum^ com navigai«t ad Colchot, k
Byzantiis quidem possessum sed commune reeiptaculum omnUtm tiovi-
gantium. Supra templum est munia hi orbem procedens. In hoe cat
Arx munitaf quam Galatse popuUti aunt, nt alia pkraqoe Atim."
D'umysiiu Byzantius, ap, Oyll, Hb* iiL c« 5.

TO COIfflTANTINOPLE. ^q

point of view it is considered, is unequalled in chap.
the interest it excites ; whether with reference v^v^
to the surprising nature of its origin ; to its
ontient history ; to the matchless beauty of its
scenery ; to its extraordinary animal produc-
tions ; to the number of rare plants, blooming
amidst its towering precipices ; to its fleets and
gondolas, towns and villages, groves and gar-
dens, the coemetries of the dead, and the walj^s
of the living; to its painted villas, virandas,
flowery terraces, domes, towers, quays, and
mouldering edifices : all these, in their turn,
excite and gratify curiosity ; while the dress
and manners of the inhabitants, contrasting the
splendid costume and indolence of the JSast
with the plainer garb and the activity of the
Westf offer to the stranger an endless source of
reflection and amusement

It was near midnight when we returned from Approach
this excursion. On the following morning we u^^,^^
determined to leave the ModeratOy and proceed
to Constanivnoplej in one of the gondolas that ply
in the Canal for hire. These boats are more
beautiful than the gondolas of Venice ; and they
are often very richly ornamented, although they
have not any awning. They are swifter than
any of our boats upon the Thames : this fact was
ascertained by an actual contest, between a

444 THROUQH THB THRACIAN BOSPORUS,

CHAP, party of Turkish gondoliers in their own bo at,
and a set of Thames watermen in one of their
wherries. We passed the gorge of the Canal,
remarkable as being the site of the bridge
constructed by Darius for the passage of his
numerous army ; the grandeur of the scenery
increasing as we approached the capitaL The
sides of the Canal appeared covered with
stately pavilions, whose porticoes, reaching to
the water's edge, were supported by pillars of
marble; when, all at once, the prospect of
Constantinople^ with the towns of Scuiary and
Peraj opened upon us, and filled our minds
with such astonishment and admiration, that
the impression can never be effiu^ed. Since
nothing can equal the splendour of such a scene,
it is impossible, by comparison, to give any
description of what we saw. The Reader, by
the aid of his imagination, combining all his
ideas of Oriental pomp with the utmost magni-
ficence of Nature, may endeavour to supply the
deficiency \ The Turkish squadron, recently
returned from a summer cruise, were, when we
arrived, at anchor off the point of the seraglio.
One of the ships, a three-decker, constructed

(1) The Bay qf Naple$ has often been compared with that of
C(m#fanftnc»p2e, but improperly; because the natural beanties of the
former are of a difiSirent description ; and the external appearance of
the city of Naple$^ Tiewed from the sea, is very inferior in gfandeor.

TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 445

by a French engineer of the name of Le Brun^ ^^^^-
surprised us by its extraordinary beauty. Its ^^v^v^
guns were all of polished brass ; and its immense
ensign, reaching to the surface of the water^
consisted entirely of silk.

After what has been said of the external Disgiutiiig
grandeur of this wonderful city, the Reader is anccofthe
perhaps ill prepared for a description of the
interior; the horror, the wretchedness, and
filth of which are not to be conceived. Its
streets are narrow, dark, ill paved, and full of
holes and ordure. In the most abominable
alleys of London, or of Parisy there is nothing so
revolting. They more resemble the interior of
common sewers than public streets. The
putrefying carcases of dead dogs, with immense
heaps of filth and mud, obstruct a passage
through them. Owing to the inequalities and
holes in the narrow causeway, it is almost
impossible to proceed without danger of putting
an ancle out of joint. We landed at GalatOj in ^^•^ •*
the midst of dunghills, where a number of large,
lean, mangy dogs, some with whelps wallowing
in mire, and all of them covered with dirt,
were sprawling or feeding. The appearance
of a Frank^ instantly raises an alarm among

(8) The name applied to erery Ckritiiomixi the Levant, of whatsoerer
nation.

^g CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAP, these animals, who never bark at the Turks ;

XI.

N^^v^ aiid» sts they were roused by our coming on
shore, the noise became so great, that we conld
not hear each other speak. To this clamour
were added the bawlings of a dozen porters,
vociferously proflFering their services, and be-
ginning to squabble with each other as £ast as
any of them obtained a burden. At length we
were able to move on ; but in such confined,
stinking, and yet crowded lanes, that we almost
despaired of being able to proceed. The swarm
of dogs, howling and barking, continually
accompanied us, and some of the larg^t endea*
voured to bite us. When we reached the little
Pera. inn of Peraj where a few small rooms, like the
divisions in a rabbit-hutch, had been prepared
for our reception, we saw at ^ least fifty of these
mongrels collected around the door in the yard»
like wolves disappointed of their prey. The late
storms had unroofed several of the houses in
Pera: that in which we were to lodge was
among the number : one comer of it had been
carried off by the wind ; so that, without climbing
to the top for a view of the city, we commanded^
through its dilapidated walls, a fine prospect of
the Port of the Golden Horn, and part of
Constantinople. Pera had recently suffered,
in consequence of a conflagration which had
nearly consumed every bouse in the place.

CONSTANTIirOPLB. 447

There was reason to believe some improvement ^^ap.
would take place during its restoration ; but we
found it rising from its ashes, like a new phoenix,
without the slightest deviation from the form
and appearance of its parent. The exception
only of one or two houses, formerly of wood,
and rebuilt with stone, might be noticed ; but all
the rest were as ugly, as inconvenient, and as
liable to danger, as before ; and were it not for
a few workmen employed in fronting the houses
of the merchants, no stranger would have dis-
covered that any calamity had befallen the place.

Considering the surprising extent of the city
and suburbs of Canstantinople^ the notions en-
tertained of its commerce, and the figure it has
long made in history, it might be expected that
all the conveniences, if not the luxuries, of life
would be there found. Previous to an arrival,
if inquiry be made of merchants, and other
persons who have visited Constantinapley as to
the commodities of its markets, the answer is
almost always characterized by exaggeration.
They will affirm that every thing a stranger may
require can be purchased in Constantinople^ as
easily as in Ltmdon^ in Paris, or in Vienna:
whereas, if truth be told, hardly any one article,
good in its kind, can be procured. Let a

state of
Turkish
Com-
merce.

448 COKSTANTINOPtB.

^ x1^* foreigner visit the bazar^f properly so called,
he will see nothing but slippers, clumsy boots,
of bad leather, coarse muslins, pipes, tobacco,
coffee, cooks' shops, drugs, flowers, roots,
second-hand pistols, poignards, and the worst
manufactured wares in the world. In Pera,
Greeks and Italians are supposed to supply all
the necessities of the Franks: and here, it is true,
a few pitiful stalls are to be seen ; but all the
wares are dear and bad. Suppose a stranger to
arrive from a long journey, in want of clothes
for his body, furniture for his lodgings, books or
maps for his instruction and am^ement ; paper,
pens, ink, cutlery, shoes, hats ; in short, those
articles which may be foimd in almost every
city of the world : he will obtain few or none
of them in Constantinople^ unless they be of a
quality so inferior as to render them incapable
of answering the purposes for which they were
made. The few commodities exposed for sale,
are either exports from England, unfit for any
other market, or, which is worse, German and
Dutch imitations of English manufacture. The
woollen cloths are hardly good enough to cover
the floors of their own counting-houses ; every
article of cutlery and hardware is detestable;

(1) Bazar is the Turkish word for niarM.

COKSTANTINOPLE. 449

the leather used for shoes and boots is so bad, ^'^^j^*
that it can scarcely be wrought ; hats, hosiery,
linen, buttons, buckles, are all of the same cha-
racter; of the worst quality, and yet of the
highest price. But there are other^ articles of
merchandize, to which we have been accustomed
to annex the very name of Turkey^ as[^if they
were the peculiar produce of that country ; and
these, at least, a foreigner expects to find ; but
not one of them can be had. Ask for a Turkish
carpet, you are told you must send for it to
Smyrna ; for Cheek wines, to the Archipelago ;
for a Turkish sabre, to Damascus ; for the sort of
stone expressly denominated turquoise^ they
know not what you mean ; for red leather^ they
import it themselves from Russia or from Africa :
still vou are said to be in the centre of the com-

merce of the globe ; and this may be true with
reference to the freight of vessels passing the
Straits, which is never landed. View the ex-
terior of Constantinople^ and it seems the most
opulent and flourishing city in Europe : examine
its interior, and its miseries and deficiencies
are so striking, that it must be considered the
meanest and poorest metropolis of the world.
The ships crowding its ports have no connec-
tion with its welfare : they are for the most
part, Frenchj Venetian^ Magusan, Sclavonian^ and
Grecian vessels, bound to, or from, the

^Q C0N8TANTIK0PIA

ranean; exchanging the produce of their own
countries^ for the rich harvests of Poland; for
the salt, honey , and butter of the Ukraine ; for
the hides, tallow, hemp, fiirs, and metals of
Russia and Siberia : but the whole of this ex-
change is transacted in other ports, without any
interference on the part of Turkey. Never was
there a people in possession of such advantages,
who either knew or cared so little for their
enjoyment. Under a wise government, the
inhabitants of Constantinople might obtain the
riches of all the empires of the earth. Situate
as they are, it cannot be long before other
nations, depriving them of such important
sources of wealth, will convert to better
purposes the advantages they have so long
neglected.

ADDITIONAL NOTES.

Paob 100, line 10. '' The natives of the Crimea itiU
call the town of Kertchy Vospor, and the strait* Vospor,
aiihough thetf write the word Bospor.'*]— The preserva-
tion of this namei as applied to the town of Kertchy^ by
the present inhabitants, settles the antient geography of
the Cimmerian Straits^ in a very satisfactory manner;
as it serves, with a remarkable passage of Plvny^ to prove
that Kertchy was actually PANTiCAPi«uii, which was
also called Bosphobus ; and having once established the
fOBition of Panticaptsumf it necessarily follows, thatTVuium,
upon the opposite Asiatic shore, was the antient Pbana-
GORiA. These are Plinths words in the passage to which
allusion is made : ** Ad Panticap€Bumy quod aliqui Bos-
phorum vocant" (Vid. Hist. Nat. lib. iv. c. 12. tom. 1,
p. 227. Lugd. Bat. 1635.^ In Count PotochUs Map of the
Cbimba, the modem name is not Kertchy^ but Vospor.

P. 290. Note (3). " See the Additional Notes,*' &c.]—
** Chersonesum seu Cherronesum, Corsunum, vel Cherso-
nam, Sari Germenum, quasi flavum arcem, Turcse urbem
earn vocftmnt: nam solum quasi flavum ille tractus habet.
Quffi quod superba, dives, delicata et clara quondam Greecse
gentis colonia fuerit, universseque peninsules urbs anti-
quissima, frequens, magnifica, portuque nobilissima ezti-
terit, admirandsB ruinse illius manifeste testantur. In ex-
tremitate isthmi illius, quern parvam Cherronesum Strabo
▼ocat, et in ostio ipso portus oris angnsti, ac per universum

VOL. II. 2 o

452 ADDITIONAL NOTES.

isthmom sicut latitndo ripae utriosqae maris^ est, arbs
murum altissimam et magnum turresque plmimas et maxi-
mas ex secto et grand! lapide erectas nunc etiam habet,
ac tota mari exposita existit Aquarum ductuB, qui millia-
ribns quatuor cuniculis ex petris excisis in urbe ducebantar,
in quibus nunc etiam aqua purissima est, ad nrbis ipsius
moenia conspiciuntur. Est in eo loco unde riynlns ille
delabitur pagus quidam non iguobilis, et non procul in
ripa maris, in monte saxoso, Grsecum monasterinm, Sancti
Oeorgii solemne ; anniyersaria devotio Grscis Christianis
qni nunc in Tanrica sunt reliqui, in magna finequentia ibi
fieri solet. Urbs ilia d mnltis non solum annis, yerom
ssculisy et hominibus et habitatoribns pronnis yacna, fbn-
ditus diruta ac in yastitatem redacta est. Mnri et tnrres
integrse adhnc et miro opere sumptuose facts conspici-
untur. Principum Regia yel domus in ea isthmi parte,
et urbb mcenibus, turribus, et portis magnificis existit.
Verum k Turcis insignes cdumnse marmoreaB etaerpentinsB,
quarum intus adhuc loca apparent, et grandiores lapides,
spoliatffi et per mare ad sedes eorum in eedificia publica et
privata deportatas sunt. Idcirco ad majorem minam ea
urbs peryenit : non «dium et templorum ne yestigia qui*
dem in ea yisuntur. Urbis sedificia humi prostrata et solo
sequata sunt. Monasterium Onecum maximumque in urbe
est reliquum ; parietes templi apparent quidem, sed testi-
tudinem non habent, et omamenta sedificii ejus, qusB ibi
erant insignia, diruta et spoliata sunt Ex illo monaslerio
duas portas aeris Corinthii, quas Orssoorum presbyteri
Regias portas yocant, et imagines insigniores, Greeos
aliquos ad Volodimirum magnum Russorom sen Kioyien-
sium Principem ea tempestate praedse loco Kioyiam de-
portayisse, postmodum yero k Boleslao secundo rege Po-
loniae Kioyia Gnesnam pnedae itidem loco, quae in templi

ADDITIONAL NOTEi*. 453

maximi porta nunc etiam ibi visuntur, delatas esse, Rus-
florum et Polononim annates memorise prodid^re ; Volo-
dimirum Principum loanni Zemiscse Constantinopolitano
Imperatori eam urbem quondam eripuisse ; verum Basilii
et Constantini Imperatomm Anna sorore in matrimonio
dncta, et sacro fonte ritas Greeci in eodem monasterio k
Patriarcha qaodam initiato, restituisse. Quod et in ho-
diemnm usque diem in locis iisdem k Christianis Qnecist
quorum obscurae et parvse admodum reliquas supersunt,
pnedicatur. Ante urbem promontorium existere, et Par-
thenium, id est, virgineum appellatum esse, Deseque illius
asdem ae statuam habere. Ac eam urbem liberam fuisse,
propriisque legibus vixisse ; verum k Barbaris direptam,
eoque necessitatis dednctam esse, Enpatore Mithridate
prssule sibi delecto adversus Barbaros helium gessisse,
et tanta spe erectam exercitum in Cfaersonesam misisse,
at et Scythis pariter Strabone teste intulerit, et Sciluri li-
beroe quinquaginta (ut Possidonus scribit) captives habue-
rit, et k Perisade prsefecto loci ditione accepta Bospho
potitns sit : Ac inde ex eo tempore in hunc usque diem
Chersonesitarum civitatem Bosporanis Regulis subjectam
fuisse olim idem Strabo asserit.''

Descrip. Tartar, pp. 258—261.

P. 809. Note (2) . ''Seethe Additional Notes," &c.]—
Sidagios k Graecis, k Genuensibus vero Sudacum, arx et
civitas ilia dicta fuit. Tartaris prorsus incognita est In
monte altissimo, saxoso et peramplo» ad mare sito, in
sommitate mentis, arcem superiorem, alteram mediam,
tertiam vero inferiorem arcem, muro et turribus cinctas
et munitas Grseci seu Genuenses Itali condid^re. Templa
Oraeca ex grandioribus saxis infinita esse, et quasi sacella
pauca admodum, nonnuUa integra visuntnr, piurima vero

2 o 2

454 ADDITIONAL NOTES.

in ruinam versa et humi jam prostrata jacent. Snperbi,
discordes et desides Orseci k Genuensibus Italia fracti et
debilitati civitatem earn amiserant. Non contemnenda
Grenaensium vestigia Oraecis multo clariora ibi conspiei-
untur. At iiisignem locamque quondam, at ex minis vi-
dere licet, extitisse, k Christianis Orsecbi quommqne
parvse admodum reliqaiae ibi sunt, memoratur : Gnecomm
gentem eo discordiarum et inimicitiarum devenisse, quod
familiee, quae dissidiis laborabant, ne devotionem quidem
publicam fieri eique interesse volebant Propterea templa
ilia infinita quam plurimi sedificav^re, quae aliquot centena
ibi extitisse Christian! perhibent. Templa tria maxima
Catbolica, domus, muri, portae, ac turres insignes, com
textilibus et insigniis Genuensium in arce inferiori visuntur.
A Metropolita quodam viro Graeco et honestOy qui ex
insulis Gnecis ad visitandos presbyteros illos turn e6 ad-
venerat, et bospitio me exceperat, accepi, quod cum im-
manissima gens Turcarum eam civitatem ingenti maritimo
exercitu oppugnasset, k Genuensibus fortiter et animose
ilia defenderetur. Verum cum obsidionem diutumam ac
famem Genuenses diutius ferre, nee impetum tam numerosi
exercitus Turcarum sustinere amplius possent, in maximum
templum illud» quod adhuc ibi integrum est, centeni ali-
quot, vel, ut ille asserebat, mille fere viri egregii sese rece-
perant, per dies aliquot in arce inferiori, in quam Turcae
irruperant, fortiter et animose sese defendcntes, insigni et
memorabili Turcarum strage edita. Tandem in templo
illo universi concid^re. Templi illius portae et fenestne
k Turcis muro impletee. Caesorum cadavera in eum usque
diem insepulta jacent. In id templum ne accederem, k
Caphensi Seniaco quondam Turca, quem in ea arce per-
petuum ille habet, ego prohibitus sum. Portorium non
ignobile civitatis ejus fnit. Vineas et pomaria, quas ad

ADDITIONAL NOTES. 4f55

duo et amplius milliaria extenduntar, fertilissima k Ca-
phensibusy Tnrcis, Judeeis, et ChristianiB nnnc etiam ibi
colantur. Nam universse Taaricse vinum optimam ibi
nascitur. Rivis amoenissimisy qui ex altissimis et mediis
montibus et sylvis, quae admodnm frequentes ibi suntt de-
cnrrent, universus ille tractus abundat.**

Descrip. Tartar, pp. 289 — 271.

P.315. Note (3). " See also his further Observations,'' &c.]
— '^ Putant autem aliqui fossam banc in Tauricae isthmo
factam, eo nimirum perfosso, ut insulam earn faceret. Sed
quum oemo dit, qui id pro certo doceat, non possum et ego
dicere, quae aut qua! is ea fossa fuerit, k qua nomen hoc
desumpserint, an nimirum ad fortificationem aut munitio-
nem, an vero ad irrigandum solum ducta sit : neque quis*-
quam mihihactenu8(quamvi8diligenterinquirenti) occurrit,
qui certi quid hac de re attulerit. Neque ego etiam ad-
duci possum ut credam eam banc esse fossam, cujus Hero-
dotus libro quarto meminit : quod nimirum Soy this k longa
et diutuma ilia Asiae et Mediae expeditione redeuntibus,
ac uxoribus tantse absenta tcedio servis sibi conjugio junc-
tisy ex quibus numerosam juventutem susceperant, inventis,
bello eam adorti sint, in quo haec ad sui defensionem k
Tauricis montibus usque ad paludem Maeotidem latam
fossam duxerit: Nam si nomen ipsis hinc dandam, necesse
erit ut ipsorum ea Tartarorum opus fuerit; alias enim
nescio quomodo ab eo antiquo opere cognominari ita pos-
sint. Verum si sit qui me informet, nullam aliam in ea
provincia esse fossam notabilem, quam banc k Scytharum
notfais ductam, assentirer forte. In medio autem relinquo,
hoc saltem addens, quod fossa haec k servorum (qui coeci
plerique erant) Riiis ac Scytfaarum nothis ducta, Oriza
nominata fuerit, fortassis k fine : Ideo enim k montibus

456 ADDITIONAL NOTES.

Tauricis qui in Scythia erant (k qua illi egreasi sant qui
Cfaeraoneso de qua nunc agimus, nomen dedernnt) usque
ad palndem Maeotidem earn deduxerunt, ut ea regione,
qufle Chersonesus non erat, domum redeuntes dominos ex-
cluderent/' Ibid. ftp. ^4, 225.

APPENDIX.

No. I.

PIBLD-MARSHAL COUNT ALBZANDBR VA88IL1AV1TCH

SUVOROFs^
** Discourse under the Trigger ;^

(most UTIRALLT TRANflJiTBD mOM THS ORIOINAL ROMIAlf J

Being a Smetqf INSTRUCTIONS, drawn up by kim$ey,for the Use
qf the Army under his Command y after the Turkuh War; anddnee
trammittedf by order of the Ruuian Oavemtnent, to every Beghnent
in the Service,— It is oommenly coiled Suyorof's Catbchism.

" DISCOURSE UNDER THE TRIGGER."
[7^ Gtneral i» tuppami to be kupeetimg the Lbee, and addre$ek»g the Troefe.]

tlEELS close! — Knees straight I — A soldier must
stand like a dart! — I see the fourth — the fifth I
don't see I

(1) TbiB is the proper method of writing his name. The Buetiant
frequently pronounce the O as an A ; hence the cause of Suvorofe
uanoc being often written Suvarqf in Enylieh. Some, more erroneously,
write it, Suwarrow.

(2) A IHscourte under the Trigger, is the harangue made by a Ge-
neral to his troops, when the line is drawn out, and the soldiers rest on
their pieces.

458 APPENDIX, No I.

A soldier's step is an archine^ — in wheeling, an
archine and a half. Keep your distances well !

Soldiers, join elbows in front I First rank
three steps from the second — in marching, two I

Give the drum room I

Keep your baU three 4^7^ — i^ ^^J happen,
for a whole campaign, when lead* cannot be had I

Fire seldom — but fire sure 1

Push hard with the bayonet I The ball will
lose its way — the bayonet never I The ball is a
fool — the bayonet a hero I

Stab once I and off with the Turk from the
bayonet ! Even when he's dead, you may get a
scratch from his sabre.

If the sabre be near your neck, dodge back
one step, and push on again.

Stab the second! — stab the third I A hero
will stab half-a-dozen.

Be sure your ball's in your gun !

If three attack you, stab the first, fire on the
second, and bayonet the third I — this seldom hap-
pens.

In the attack, there's no time to load again.

When you fire, take aim at their guts ; and
fire about twenty balls^ — Buy lead from your
economy^— it costs little '

(1) The Ru$fian archine is twenty-eight indiet.

(2) The Ruttkm BoMiers buy their own letd.
^3) The treasury of the MeM.

APPENDIX, No I. 459

We fire sure — we lose not one ball in thirty :
in the IJght Artillery and Heavy Artillery, not
one in ten.

If you see the match upon a gun, run up to
it instantly — the ball will fly over your head —
The guns are your's — the people are your's I
Down with 'em, upon the spot I pursue 'em I
stab 'em! — To the remainder give quarter— it's
a sin to kill without reason ; they are men, like
you.

Die for the honour of the Virgin Mary — for
your Mother^ — for all the Royal Family I The
Church prays for those that die ; and those who
survive have honour and reward.

Ofiend not the peaceable inhabitant I he gives
us meat and drink— the soldier is not a robber.
Booty is a holy thing I If you take a camp, it
is all your's I if you take a fortress, it is all
your'sl At Isinael^ besides other things, the
soldiers shared gold and silver by handfuls ; and
so in other places : but, without order, never go
to booty I

A battle in the field has three modes of attack :

1. On the Wingj

which is weakest. If a wing be covered by
wood, it is nothing ; a soldier will get through.

(4) The name given by the RussUuu to the Emprtft,

460 APPENDIX, No I.

— Through a morass, it is more difficult. —
Through a river you cannot run. All kind of
entrenchment you may jump over.

2. The Attach m the Centre

is not profitable — except for Cavalry, to cut
them in pieces — or else they'll crush you.

3. The Attach behind

is very good. Only for a small €X>rp6 to get
round. Heavy battle in the field, against
regular troops. In squares, against Turks, and
not in columns. It may happen, against Turks,
that a square of 500 men will be compelled to
force its way through a troop of 6 or 7»000, with
the help of small squares on the flank. In such
a case, it will extend in a column. But till now
we had no need of it. There are the God-
forgetting, tvindtfy light-headed Frejichmen — if it
should ever happen to us ^to march against
them, we must beat them in columns.

The Battley upon Entrenchments^ in the Field.

The ditch is not deep — the rampart is not
high — Down in the ditch ! Jump over the walll
Work with your bayonet I Stab ! Drive ! Take
them prisoners ! Be sure to cut oflF the Cavalry,
if any are at hand! — At Prague, the Infantry
cut oflF the Cavalry : and there were three-fold,
and more, entrenchments, and a whole fortress ;
therefore we attacked in columns.

APPENDIX, No I. 461

The Storm\
Break down the fence I Throw wattles over
the holes I Run as fast as you can I Jump over
the palisades I Cast your fagots ! (into the
ditch.) Leap into the ditch I Lay on your
ladders ! Scour the columns ! Fire at their
heads ! Fly over the walls I Stab them on the
ramparts I Draw out your line 1 Put a guard to
the powder-cellars ! Open one of the gates ! the
Cavalry will enter on the enemy. Turn his guns
against him I Fire down the streets I Fire
briskly! There's no time to run after them!
When the order is given, enter the town ! Kill
every enemy in the streets! Let the Cavalry
hack them ! Enter no houses I Storm them in
the open places, where they are gathering. Take
possession of the open places! Put a capital
guard! Instantly put piquets to the gates, to
the powder-cellars, and to the magazines!
When the enemy has surrendered, give him
quarter ! When the inner wall is occupied, go
to plunder!

There are three military talents :

1 . The Coup (TceiL
How to place a camp — How to march. —

(1) It U iini»088iblc io this truiulation, conitistcutly with fidelity, to
jiresvrve the brevity and eiiei'gy of tlic origindl Bustian.

46S APPENDIX^ No 1.

Where to attack — to chase — and to beat the
enemy.

2. Swiftness.

The Field Artillery must march half or a
whole verst in front, on the rising ground, that
it may not impede the march of the columns.
When the column arrives, it will find its place
again. Down hill, and on even ground, let it
go in a trot. Soldiers march in files, or four
abreast, on account of narrow roads, streets,
narrow bridges, and narrow passes through
marshy and swampy places ; and only when
ready for attack, draw up in platoons, to shorten
the rear. When you march four abreast, leave
a space between the companies. Never
slacken your pace I Walk on ! Play I Sing your
songs I Beat the drum ! When you have broken
off^ ten veTstSj the first company cast oflT their
load, and lie down. After them, the second
company; and so forth, one after the other.
But the first never wait for the rest I a line in
columns will, on the march, always draw out.
At four abreast, it will draw out one and a half
more than its length. At two abreast, it will
draw out double. A line one verst in lensrth
will draw out two — Two versts will draw out

(1 ) This is a Rtusian mode of ezpreidon. To proceed ten vtntSf tlMy
say, To break off ten.

APPENDIX, No I. 463

four ; 80 the first companies would have to
wait for the others half-an-hour to no purpose.
After the first ten verstSy an hour's rest. The
first division that arrived (upon the coming of
the second) takes up its baggage, and moves
forward ten or fifteen paces ; and if it passes
through defiles, on the march, fifteen or twenty
paces : And in this manner, division after
division, that the hindmost may get rest The
second ten versts, another hour's rest, or more*
If the third distance be less than ten verstst
halve it, and rest three-quarters, half, or a quar-
ter of an hour; that the children^ may soon get
to their kettles. So much for Infantry*

The Cavalry marches before. They alight
from their horses, and rest a short time ; and
march more than ten versts in one stage, that
the horses may rest in the camp. The kettle-
waggons and the tent-waggons go on before.
When the brother^ arrive, the kettle is ready.
The master of the mess instantjy serves out the
kettle. For breakfast, four hours' rest— and six
or eight hours at night, according as the road
proves. When you draw near the enemy, the
kettle-waggons remain with the tent-waggons,
and wood must be prepared before-hand.

(8) ChUdren, and Brothen, — Appellations given by Suvorqf to his
tioops.

464 APPENDIX, No I.

By this manner of marching, soldiers suflfer
no fatigue. The enemy does not expect us. —
He reckons us at least an hundred versls
distant ; and when we come from far, two hun-
dred, or three hundred, or more. We fall all at
once upon him, like mow on the head. His head
turns. Attack instantly, vnth whatever arrives^;
with what God sends. The Cavalry instantly
fall to work — hack and slash ! stab and drive !
Cut them off I Don^t give them a moment's rest-

3. Energy.

One leg strengthens the other I One hand
fortifies the other I By firing, many men are
killed I The enemy has also hands ; but he
knows not the Rtissian bayonet ! (alluding to the
Turks.) Draw out the line immediately ; and
instantly attack with cold arms ! (the bayonet)
If there be not time to draw out the line, attack,
from the defile, the Infantry, with the bayonet ;
and the Cavalry will be at hand. — If there be a
defile for a verst^ and cartridges over your
head, the gims will be your'sl Commonly,
the Cavalry make the first attack, and the
Infantry follow. In general. Cavalry must
attack like Infantry, except in swampy ground ;

(1) Whatever arrives, — Suvorqf beg^n the attack as fooD as the
Colours arriyedy even if he had but half a regiment advaneed.

APPENDIX, No I. 4!65

and there they must lead their horses by the
bridle. Cossacks will go through any thing.
When the battle is gained, the Cavalry pursue
and hack the enemy, and the Infantry are not
to remain behind. In two files there is strength
— in three files, strength and a half*. — The first
tears — the second throws down — and the third
perfects the work.

Mules for Diet.

Have a dread of the hospital I German phy-
sic stinks from afar, is good for nothing, and ra-
ther hurtful. A Russian soldier is not used to
it. Messmates know where to find roots, herbs,
and pismires. A soldier is inestimable. Take
care of your health I Scour the stomach when
it is foul I Hunger is the best medicine I He
who neglects his men — if an officer, arrest — if a
8ub*officer, lashes?; and to the private, lashes,
if he neglects himself. If loose bowels want
food, at sun-set a little gruel and bread. For
costive bowels, some purging plant in warm
water, or the liquorice-root. Remember, Gen-
tlemen, the field-physic of Doctor BellypotskyV —

(2) Strength and a haff.^A common mode of expression in Rtutia.
Swoorqf aimed at the style and language of the common soldiers ; this
renders his composition often obscure.

(3) lot A«f .— The literal translation of the origfaial is Stithu

(A) Professor PalUu supposed this to have been a manual qf medicine
pabUshed for the use of the army.

4f66 APPENDIX, No 1.

In hot fevers, eat nothing, even for twelve * days
— and drink your soldiers' quas^ — thaf s a sol-
dier's physic. In intermittent fevers, neither
eat nor drink* It's only a punishment for
neglect, if health ensues. In hospitals, the
first day the bed seems soft — the second, comes
French soup — and the third, the brother is laid
in his coffin, and they draw him away I One
dies, and ten companies round him inhale his
expiring breath. In camp, the sick and feeble
are kept in huts, and not in villages ; there the
air is purer. Even without an hospital, you
must not stint your money for medicine, if it
can be bought ; nor even for other necessaries.
But all this is frivolous — we know how to pre-
serve ourselves I Where one dies in an hundred
with others, we lose not one in five hundred, in
the course of a month. For the healthy, drinkt
air, and food — for the sick, air, drink, and food.
Brothers, the enemy trembles for youl But
there is another enemy, greater than the hos-
pital— the d-mn'd " / don't know^r Prom the

(1) Here be endeavoiin to counteract a Ruitian pr^udicey fiivoorable
to immoderate eating during fefen.

(2) A lour beverageymade of fermented flour and water.

(d) Sueor^ had ao great an ayersion to any person's saying, I donCi
know, in answer to bis qnestions, that he became almost mad with
passion. His officers and soldiers were so well aware of this singularity,
that they would hazard any answer instantly, accurate or not, rather
than venture to incur his displeasure by professing ignorance.

APPENDIX, iCo I. 467

half'Confessingy the guessing, lying, deceitful,
the palavering equivocation^ squeamishness,
and nonsense of ** don*t Anaw^** many disasters
originate. Stammering, hackering^ — and so
forth ; it's shameful to relate I A soldier should
he sound, hrave, firm, decisive, true, honour-
ahle I — Pray to God I from him comes victory and
miracles! God conducts us I God is our Ge-
neral 1 — For the " I don't Afiaw,** an officer is put
in the guard — A staff-officer is served with an
arrest at home. Instruction is light ! Not in-
struction is darkness! The work fears its master!^
— If a peasant knows not how to plough, the
com will not grow I One wise man is worth
three^ fools 1 and even three are little, give six I
and even six are little*, give ten I One clever
mellow wiU beat them all — overthrow them —
and take them prisoners !

In the last campaign, the enemy lost 75^000
well-counted men — perhaps not much less than

(1) Hie words here are, lome of them, not to he trauslatedy and
teem to be the coinage of his own fancy. The Ruuiana themselres
cannot affix an explication to them.

(6) A Ruman proverb.

(6) Here Swoorqf is a littk in his favoorite character of the baffoon.
He generally closed his harangues by endeavonring to excite laughter
among his troops ; and this mode of forming a climax is a pecaliar
characteristic of the conversation of the RuMsian Boors. In this man-
ner : " And not only of the Boors, but the Gentry I — and not only of
ike Gentry ^but the Nobles i-^and not only qf the Nobles, but the Em-
perorP*

VOL. II. 2 H

468 APPENDIX^ No I.

lOOyOOO. He fought desperately and artfully,
and we lost not a full thousand^ There,
brethren, you behold the effect of military
instruction I Gentlemen officers, what a triumph I

N. B. Thf^ Translation has been rendered perfectly liteiBl ;
so that effect is often sacrificed to a strict attention to
the real signification of the words, instead of intro-
ducing paraOel phrases.

(1) A slight exaggeration of Suoorof't,

APPENDIX, N» IT. 46

No. II.

STATE of ENGLISH COMMERCE in the

BLACK SEA,

BY A MEMBER OF THE LEVANT COMPANY I

TO WHICH ARB ANHBXEO,

Certain Official Documents extracted from the " RegUtrary
of the British Chancery Office at ConstafUinople.*'

^'xVt length an end has been put to the reluctant
hostilities, produced partly by hostile influence,
and partly by mismanagement, between England
and Turkey. Having now to begin over again
in that Empire, after the interruption of an
amicable intercourse of two centuries, it is to
be hoped we shall retrieve past errors. Political
misfortune is but another name for misconduct.
With the terms of the Treaty of Peace, con-
cluded on the 5th of January I8O99 we are not
likely to be made acquainted, until after the
ratification. But there is one point, which we
may take for granted, cannot have been neg-
lected, in framing the instructions for the
negotiation ; and to this the attention of our

2 H 2

470 APPENDIX, No IF.

merchants, ship-owners, and mariners, cannot
he too early directed ; namely, the freedom of
the Black Sea, as estahlished in flavour of this
comitry in 1799- Those waters have heen
strangely overlooked by statesmen in our days,
aif a sort of blank upon the map. In fact, the
Genoese and the Venetian Republics seem to
have been the only powers of Modem Europe
thoroughly aware of the importance of access
to the very heart of the Continent, aflTorded by
that inlet ; although the policy of the Romans
on that head, is discoverable, in the war against
Mithradates. The principal treaty extant be-
tween the Crown of England and the Ottoman
Sultans does indeed shew some vestiges of our
having had footing there in the days of Queen
Elizabeth f or James I. ; but when we ceased to
frequent the Black Sea is not ascertained. All
the information upon record seems to be made
use of in the first of the three documents
annexed ; which is the Memorial whereby
Mr. Smitht his Majesty's Minister-plenipoten-
tiary at the Portej solicited a fresh recognition,
tantamount to a new creation, of the right of
access, in favour of the British flag, already
alluded to. This was speedily obtained, as
appears by the second document, which declares
the assent of the late Sultan Selim thereto.
By one of those eccentric movements which

APPENDIX, No n. 471

characterise English diplomacy, that Minister
was superseded, a few weeks afterwards, by the
Earl of Elgin^ who was invested with the rank
of Ambassador Extraordinary. But it was not
until after the noble Earl had been replaced by
Mr. Stratton^ in the character of Charge d^affairesy
that the third and last document of the series
was published in the London Gazette of the
14th of September, 1802.

" To what extent the enjoyment of our privi-
lege, thus renovated, was carried during the
subsequent embassy of Mr. Drummond, is not
precisely known : at last, however, a total inter*
ruption of this beneficial pursuit, in its still
infant state, was one of the lamentable conse-
quences, amongst others, of Mr. Arbuthnofs
unaccountable Hegira from Constantinople in
I8O79 (on board the Endymion frigate).

*< Although it is not a part of the present
subject to trace political effects to their causes,
yet this sUght retrospect has already introduced
such a catalogue of names, as it is impossible
to take leave of, without a word of regret, that
the pernicious influence of what is, by common
consent, called interest (although a more appro-
priate epithet might be employed), should be
found to extend its discouraging effects to the

472 APPENDIX, Ho U.

filling important foreign missions with novices ;
while Ministers, regularly brought up in the
diplomatic school, are laid upon the shelf, like
Yellow Admirals. With the two exceptions of
the gentlemen first named, Mr. Smithy and
Mr. Strattouy both of whom completed their
servitude in the subaltern ranks of the foreign
line, (the former as Secretary under Mr. jLi^ton,
when Ambassador at Constantinople in 1793,
and the latter under Sir R. M. Keithy at Vienna^
in 1788,) the other representatives of His
Majesty at the Porte^ during the interval under
review, cannot be considered as , qualified, either
by professional education, by official experience,
or by local residence, to manage our concerns
in the Levant. Even down to the very last
appointment to a special mission thither,
destined to treat with a country convulsed by
internal commotions, can it be said that per-
sonal knowledge of the Orientals was in the
slightest degree attended to ? It is not the aim
of this discussion to detract from the possible
merit of any candidate, nor to withhold appro-
bation from the useful employment of abilities :
although something might be said upon the pal-
pable combination of the Turkish negociation
with the change of system, in one, at least, ^
the Imperial Courts, otherwise the preservation
of amity, with a Power so critically situated.

APPENDIX, No II. 473

in its interior as well as in its exterior relations,
as the Ottoman Porte^ would be precarious
indeed. But the general respectability of the
choice, any more than the success attending
the experiment, cannot militate against the fact,
that, with the Third Report of the Finance
Committee lying on the table of the House of
Commons^ in the Appendix to which (No. 63.
dated 15th March 1808) are registered the
names of five ex*diplomatists who had served
in that quarter, and are pensioned off to the
amount of £8,950 annually. With the con-
tingent Pension List thus charged, Mr. Adair
was sent to set foot in Turkey j for the first time
in his life.

'* To conclude. After re-organizing our old
establishment on this side of the BosphorvLs^
we shall, in all probability, have to form new
ones in the JEuxine regions. We have the suc-
cessful example of our natural rivals before our
eyes, as to the advantages derivable from pre-
liminary information, whether statistical, geo-
graphical,- or hydrographical, in the intercourse
with foreign countries. Every intelligent tra-
veller knows how indefatigable the French are
in the acquisition, and how methodical in the
application, of all those branches of local know-
ledge, to the purposes of war or peace. This

474 APPENDIX, Ko M.

department of study is too mnch left to chance
amongst us. In proportion to our popiilation»
we possess a greater number of well-infonhied
individual than any other country, perhaps,
except parts of Germany. But our progressive
knowledge of the globe is not digested into con-
venient and authentic form. Our marine charts,
dome local surveys attached to expensive publi-
cations excepted, are, in general, so defective^
as to disgrace a naval nation. One map-maker
copies the antiquated blunders of another : and
thus is error perpetuated by each succeeding
pubfication ; in which the map-seller is mwe
attentive to the workmanlike appearance of
the article, than to the scientific merit of the
performance. The revival of Levantine naviga-
tion offers a desirable opportunity for rectifying
the hydrography of the Black Sea.**

Memorial presented to the Sublime Ottoman Porie^ by
Majesty* 8 Minister Plenipotentiary, Mr. I, 8. Smith.

** HIS Britannic Majesty's Minister Plenipotentiaiy bas
already taken occasion to apprise the Sublime Ottoman
Porte of a petition having been presented to His Migesty's
Government, on the part of an antient Corporation (not
unknown to the illustrious Ottoman Ministry) entitled, by
Royal charter, * The Company of Merchants of England
trading into the Levant Seas.' The prayer of which petition
is, to obtain from the Sublime Porte the same advantages
as are enjoyed, within the Ottoman Empire, by other nore

APPENDIX, NO II. 475

favoured nations ; meaning thereby, in express terms, the
privilege successively recognised in favour of the Russians
and Oermansj relative to the navigation of the Black Sea.
In addition to the earliest communication of the fact, the
English Minister thought it expedient to avail himself of
the friendly intercourse arising out of the mutual duties of
alliance, in order to prepare the Ottoman Ministers of State
for the more formal agitation of the question, by previous
confidential explanation of the opinion entertained by his
superiors upon its merits. He is glad of this public oppor-
tunity to acknowledge the favourable reception of those
preliminary overtures, which it is now become his duty to
authenticate; as well as to substantiate his verbal argu-
ments, by the present detailed exposition.

'' Prior to the treaty of defensive alliance concluded on
the 5th of January^ 1799, the political relations of the two
Empires rested on the basis of ' the sacred capitula.-
TI05S AND articles OF THE peace/ rs they have been
digested in the times of several Ambassadors' : and as they
have been revised and amplified in 1661-2 by the Earl of
Winckelsea% Ambassador Extraordinary from Eling Charles
II. And also as they have been since augmented and re-
newed at Adrianoph in 1086, A.H. (1676, A.D.) by Sir
John Finch, Knt. Ambassador in Ordinary from His said
Majesty to the Emperor Sultan Mahommed Khaan,

*• This treaty contains several Articles which apply with
peculiar force to the present case; viz. 1. 4. 7. 18. 22. 27.
36. and 38.' to which the undersigned begs leave respec-
tively to refer.

" The text of Articles 1. 4. and 7. sets forth in general.

(1) Amongst whom are named. Sir Thomas Roe, Knt. ; Sir SaekvUi
Crow, Bart ; and Sir Thomas Bendish.

(a) Styled in the text. Sir Heneage Fineh, Knt. Earl of Wmchelsea,
Viscoant Maidstorty Baron FUzherhert of Easiioelt, Lord of the Royal
Manor of Wye, Lieutenant of the County of Kent and City of Canterbury.

(3) See Appendix, p. 482, &c.

476 APPENDIX, No II.

but in most comprehensive terms, that * the EngUdi sub-
jects and dependants maj, with their merchandise and fik-
culties, freelj pass and repass into all parts of the Ottoman
dominions ; and that their ships may come and harbour in
any of the ports or scales* of the same.' Article 22. recapi-
tulating the preceding permission to * navigate and abide,
buy and sell all legal merchandise,' enumerates prohibited
commodities. Article 18. suf&ciently secures to the English
* all privileges granted to other nations :' but to make the
point more clear, it is corroborated by the prospective lan-
guage of Article 27. which declares that the privil^es
granted by divers Imperial decrees^ whether before or after
the date of these capitulations, 'shall always be understood
and interpreted in favour of the English nation.' Article
96. distinctly defines the general permission of ingress and
egress, to enable ^ the English merchants, and all under
their banner^ to go by the way of the Tanau^ into Mos"
coma ; and also to and from Persia ; and to traffic, by land
or by sea, through all those confines.' Finally, as if it wer^
decreed that not a shadow of doubt should remain respecting
the extent of our navigation, Article 38. contains the follow-
ing remarkable maritime provision ; viz. ^ If English ships,
bound to Constantinople, shall be forced by stress of weather
into Coffa'j or to such like port, they arc not to be com-
pelled to break bulk arbitrarily,' kc. kc. The local de-
scription given by this and the preceding Article can need
no comment.

''This is our case, as far as it rests on historical testimony;
which incontrovertibly proves, that, in point of fact, the

(1) Scale — ^Term employed in the Levant factories, from Scala in the
lAngua-Franea dialect, or from the TStrHsh word Ifkeli, signifying lite-
rally a Ladder or Stairs, and, figuratively, a Commercial Quay.

(2) Tanait or Dan, a river of Russia falling into the Sea of Azof or
Paltu Mteotis ; accessible only from the Black Sea by the Strait of Tamam
or YenUKdlehj formerly the Cvnmerian Bosporus.

(3) Coffay K({ffa, Keffeh, alias Theodosia, a port in the Black Sea, <m
the S.E. coast of the /Tri^/tea, formerly the Tauriea Chersonesus.

APPENDIX, No JI. 477

English have once enjoyed a right, recognised by an au-
thentic instmment, afterwards reduced by the vicissitudes
of human affairs to a dormant state; but never extinguished;
mere disuse, occasioned by the varying circumstances of
succeeding times, is surely very different from renunciation
or forfeiture.

** But supposing that the implied right to equality of
iayour was not so explicitly admitted a^ it is by Article 18. ;
supposing further, that the fact of the waters of the Krimea
had not been so specifically established as it is by Article 38.;
nay, that England could prodnce no title at all in support
of thb claim ; there are other arguments to influence the
decision of the question in our favour, derived from the
liberal system of the Sublime Parte itself in its foreign re-
lations, from the fitness of things, and connected with the
interests of this Empire.

'* In the daily transactions between the Chancery of State
and the different European legations, how oflen do preten-
sions come under discussion which are unsupported by
conventions ad hoc. The invariable practice is, to refer all
such doubtful cases to the test of antient usage, which is
almost always considered as equivalent; and lapse of time,
so far from rendering precedent obsolete, generally stamps
it with additional value in the eyes of the Porte, In proof
of which may be cited the conduct of the Reis Effendi
towards the English Embassy in 1795, when certain reforms
were projected in the Custom-house tariff; by which the
duties on foreign merchandise were collected ad vahremy
in order to bring the chargeable valuation nearer to the
current prices of the day. The two Imperial Courts not
acceding to the proposed change, on the ground of their
commercial tariffs forming an integral {^rt of the text of
their respective treaties of peace, the Sublime Porte desisted
fTX>m the measure with respect to them: and, although we
could not make the same plea (inasmuch as our tariff* ^\oo^

478 APPENDIX NO II.

upon the ground of a simple contract between the customer
of Carutantinople and the English factory, with the excep-
tion of very few articles enumerated in the capitidatioosX
yet, for the sole reason aboye mentioned, Maskid J^J^'mmS,
then in office, voluntarily and formally exempted Mr. LuUm
from any farther disucssion of the subject : a memorable
instance of that exemplary good faith manifested by the
Ottoman Government in the observance of treaties, and
particularly shewing its equitable construction of their
meaning relative to the Englisk.

<' Since the time when the Black Sea formed, as it were,
a lake encircled by the Turkish territory, circumstance^
unnecessary to trace here, have transferred a part of the
Euxine coasts to Rftsna: and collateral causes have ren-
dered the House of Austria participator in the same privi-
lege of access to the Black Sea, although not pooocooing^
like the former power, any territorial property in its shores.
However natural it might be for any Power, which was sok
possessor of the key of those inland waters, to conceive its
duty, as guardian of the commerce and navigation of iis
subjects, best fulfilled by a rigid exclusion of strangers ; y^
the ice once broken, by the admission of a single foreign
flag, the arguments for the original system of monopoly
not only cease to be tenable, but actually change their
bearing in favour of another order of things ; whereby the
excessive benefit of the first grantee shall be shared and
subdivided with one or more competitors, leaving the par-
ticular shades of their rivality out of the question. So &r
from the Turkish coasting-trade being interfered with by
the direct voyages of foreign vessels, it is rather to be
expected that the seamanship of the Ottamcm mariners
would be improved by the example of a naval nation like
the English^ and the ship-builders be advanced in their
art by the inspection of more perfect models. The Govern-
ment can always keep the concourse of foreign shipping

APPENDIX, NO II. 479

ivithin due bounds, bj navigation laws ; while the treasury
cannot but feel the beneficial efiects of the transit by Con-
stantinaple. The commodities furnished by the trade with
Mngland are of admitted utility to all classes of this nation,
and of prime necessity to some. rBy enabling the English
navigator to penetrate the deep gulphs of the Black Sea^
Md thus rendering the remotest districts accessible to the
English merchant, instead of the present languid routine
of a single factory, superintending two or three annual
cargoes, assorted according to the limited consumption
of the metro}>oli8, with the refuse of which the provincial
traders are scantily furnished at second and third hand,
we shall see whole fleets laden with the richest produc-
tions of the Old and New World. British capital and
credit would attract flourishing establishments in the solitary
harbours of Anatolia; from whence the adjacent cities
would receive less indirect supplies ; and* where the land-
owners would find a more ready exchange for their produce.
Sinope and Trebizond would again emulate the prosperity
and population of Aleppo and Smyrna, The Abazesy
LazeSf and other turbulent hordes who inhabit the moun-
tainous fastnesses, by mixing more frequently with their
fellow-mibjects at those marts« could not fail to learn their
real interests to be inseparable from the performance of
their duty.

'* After this solution of the problem, in one sense, there
are still some other substantial reasons to expect the Otto-
iium ministry will consent to an arrangement, tending to
consolidate, more and more, the connection it has pleased
the Supreme Providence to ordain between the two Empires:
bat the most elevated ground of hope is found in the
knagnanimous sentiments of his Imperial Majesty. That
monarch will surely not suffer the antient and unalterable
friend, the zealous and devoted ally of his Empire, to sustain
a difiadvaittageous comparison with any other Power, in

480 APPENDIX, NO tl.

point of the enjoyment of immunities within bii doltainioAs:
on the contrary, the English Minister indulges himself in
the flattering persuasion, that even were this question one
of an entirely new concession in favour of his countrymen,
provided their desires were not unreasonable in themselvesi
nor incompatible with the essential interests of the Ottoman
Empire, it would encounter no difficulty on the part of the
Emperor ; whereas, what is solicited is^ the revival of the
dead letter of a venerable compact : the favourable inter-
pretation of an antient grant, become equivocal by change
of circumstances; the restoration of a privilege, beccnne
questionable solely for want of exercise. It is suggested,
to seize the present auspicious moment for assimilating that
banner which is the victorious antagonist of the enemies of
the Ottoman name, the violators of its territory, to the
flags of its neighbours and friends, not less the friends of
England. Can Russia, for instance, take umbrage at any
arrangement that would open its southern ports to those
who are the harbingers of abundance and wealth to the
northern provinces of that Empire ?

^' Nor are certain moral efiects, inseparable from such a
cause as the arrangement in question, to be overlooked by
Governments, in the cultivation of political relations; for,
although diplomatic contracts may organize the body, yet
national feeling must animate the soul of alliance. It is
impossible but that such an unequivocal proof of the interest
taken by the Emperor in the welfare of the King's subjects,
must make the most lively and lasting impression on His
Majesty's mind ; and must augment, if possible, the just
confidence he already entertains in the person and govern-
ment of his august ally. The people of England^ distin-
guished as they are by active industry and speculative
habits, will fully appretiate a concession at once so valuable
and so seasonable. Public opinion will derive therefrom
that additional intensity, and permanent direction, in favour

APPENDIX, Ko II. 481

of the connection between the two countries, no less desirable
to ensure its durability, than requisite mutually to realize
all its immediate benefits. To appropriate the enterprising
energies of a warlike people is no unfair equivalent for
mercantile encouragement : the cordial voice of an inde-
pendent nation is no unworthy return for an act of grace.
Britith gratitude will pay this tribute to Sultan Selim,

" Here closes the case which the English Minister, in
obedience to his instructions, has the honour to submit to
the consideration of the Illustrious Ministry. In the first
place, he has endeavoured to bring the existence of the pri-
vilege within the scope of historical evidence, as a claim of
unextinguished right. Secondly, he has discussed the ques-
tion upon the ground of political expediency. And lastly,
solicits the Imperial assent as a national boon. The reli-
ance that he places in the justice and wisdom of the Sub-
lime PortBf and, above all, in the generosity of the Empe-
ror, hardly permits him to harbour a doubt adverse to the
issue of a negotiation, which, if committed to feeble hands,
is founded on such a solid basis.

** It now becomes the duty of the undersigned to state,
in the name of his Court, the distinct object of this Memo-
rial : namely, the promulgation of an Imperial Femuian
(edict), enacting the re-establishment of the English navi-
gation in the Blach Sea^ on the footing it appears, by the
sacred capitulations, to have been in the reign of Sultan
Mohammed Khaan^ the most puissant Emperor of the
Ottomans, and of Queen Elizabeth of glorious memory, or
of her immediate royal successors. It is more particularly
wished to move the Sublime Porte to decree the same, ac-
cording to the tenor of its treaty with Eussioy dated at
Constantinople^ 10th of June, 1783, of the Christian sera;
confirmed by the treaty of peace concluded at Yassy^ on

(1) Yauy, or Jaui, the capital of Moldavia^ a frontier province of
TurMy ; the goremor or Vaivoda of which » always selected from the
Qrttk nobility.

4k82 APPSNDIXj NO II.

the 9th of January y 1792, from Article 17, to Article 35,
inclosiye; subject, neyertheless, to such proviaions as
existing circumstances may render expedient. To which end,
the proper officers on both sides shall be instructed to take
arrangements in concertf consulting the regulations for the
passage of the Sound into the Baltic 8ea^ or such other acts
de trannt^ >as obtain authority in the public or maritime
law of Europe.

*' Individually, there remains one other iutj for the
undersigned to fulfil ; and that is, to offer his most respectful
thanks to the illustrious Ottoman Ministry, for the courteous
attention always paid to his representations, in transacting
the business of the station he has the honour to hold, and
especially on the present affair ; as well as for the ready
access allowed him on all occasions. Also to renew the
assurances of that conscientious discharge of duty towards
the Court where he is sent to reside; of which, he trusts, the
labours of his ministry, in critical times, haye furnished too
frequent and ample testimony for those assurances not to be
accepted as sincere by the Sublime Porte.

(Signed) I, 9. SMITH,"

** Belifprady near dmstaiUmople^
lit September, 1799."

APPENDIX TO MEMORIAL.

Extract from the Treaty ^ entitled * 3?%^ Capitulations

and Articles of the Peace*

▲BTICLB I.

<^ First, that the said nation and the English merchants,
and any other nation or merchants which are or shall come
under Uie JS^p^tfA banner and protection, with their ships,
small and great, merchandise, faculties, and all other their

APPENDIX, No II. 483

goods, may always pass safe in our seas, and freely and in
all security may come and go into any part of the Imperial
limits of our dominions, in such sort, that neither any of the
nation, their goods and faculties, shall receive any hindrance
or molestation from any person whatsoever.

ARTICLE IV.

'' All English ships or vessels^ small or great, shall and
may at any time safely and securely come and harbour in
any of the scales and ports of our dominions, and likewise
may from thence depart at their pleasure, without detention
or hindrance of any man.

ARTICLE VII.

'' The English merchants, interpreters, brokers, and
all other subjects of that nation, whether by sea or land,
may fireely and safely come and go in all the ports of our
dominions ; or, returning into their own country, all our
Beglerbegs, Ministers, Governors, and other Officers, Cap-
tains by sea of ships, and others whomsoever our slaves
and subjects, we command that none of them do or shall
lay hands upon their persons or faculties, or upon any pre-
tence shall do them any hindrance or injury.

ARTICLE XVIII.

*' All those particular privileges and capitulations, which
in former times have been granted to the Frenchy Venetians^
or any other Christian nation, whose kiog is in peace and
friendship with the Porte^ in like manner the same were
granted and given to the said English nation ; to the end
that, in time to come, the tenor of this our Imperial capitu-
lation may be always observed by all men ; and that none
may, in any manner, upon any pretence, presume to contra-
dict or violate it.

ARTICLE XXII.

« The E'nglish nation, and all those that come under
their banner, their vessels, small or great, shall and may

VOL. II. 2 I

484 APPENDIX) No II.

nayigatei traffic, buy, sell, and abide in all parte of our
dominions, and, * excepting arms, gonpowder, and other
snch prohibited commodities, they may load, and cany
away, in their ships, whatsoeyer of our merchandise, at
their own pleasure, without ^ impeachment or tronble
of any man ; and their ships and vessels may come safely

and securely to anchor at all tunes, and traffic at all times,

in any part of our dominions, and with their money buy
yictuals, and all other things, without any contradiction or
hindrance of any man.

ARTICLE XXVII.

** All these privileges, and other liberties granted to (he
English nation, and those who come under their protec-
tion, by divers Imperial commands, whether before or after
the date of these Imperial capitulations, shall be always
obeyed and observed, and shall always be understood and
interpreted in favour of the English nation, according to the
tenor and true contents thereof.

ARTICLE XXXVI.

^'The English merchants, and all under their hanner,
shall and may safely, throiighout our dominion, trade, buy,
sell, (except only commodities prohibited) all sorts of mer-
chandise; likewise, either by land or sea, they may go
and traffic, or by the way of the river Tantns, in MaseomOf
or by Russiuy and from thence may bring their merchandise
into our empire : also to and from Persia they may go and
trade, and through all that part newly by us conquered,
and through those confines, without the impediment or
molestation of any of our Ministers : and they shall pay
the custom or other duties of that country, and nothing
more.

ARTICLE XXXVIII.

*' The EngUth ships which shall come to this our city
of Canstantinaplef if, by fortune of seas, or ill*weather, they

APPEin>ix, No II. 485

shall be forced to Coffa^ or to such like port, as long as the
JESnglisIi will not unlade or sell their own merchandise and
goods, no man shall enforce or give them any trouble or
annoyance: but in all places of danger, the CaddeeSj or
other of our Ministers, shall always protect and defend the
said English ships, men, and goods, that no damage may
come unto them : and with their money may buy victuals
and other necessaries : and desiring also with their money
to hire carts or vessels, which before were not hired by any
other, to transport their goods from place to place, no man
shall do them any hindrance or trouble whatsoever."

TRANSLATION

Of the Original Grant of the Freedom of the Black Sea, as
delivered to I. S. Smith, Esq. and recorded in the PubUe
Register of the Cluincery of the British Factory at Constan-
tinople.

** The friendship and good intelligence which subsist,
since the most remote times, between the Sublime PortCj
of solid glory, and the Court of England, being now crowned
by an alliance founded on principles of the most inviolable
nncerity and cordiality ; and these new bands thus
strengthened between the two Courts having hitherto pro-
duced a series of reciprocal advantages ; it is not pre-
sumptuous to suppose, that their salutary fruits will be
reaped still more abundantly in time to come. Now, afler
mature reflection, on the representations that the English
Minister Plenipotentiary residing at the Sublime Porte^ our
yery esteemed friend, has made relative to the privilege of
navigation in the Blach Sea, for the merchant vessels of his
nation ; representations that he has reiterated, both in
writing and verbally, in conformity to his instructions, and
with a just confidence in the lively attachment of the Porte

2 1 2

486 APPENDIX, Vo n.

towards his Court : therefore, to give a new proof of these
sentiments, as well as of the hopes entertained bj the BtUh
Ume PorUj of seeing henceforward a mnltiplicitj of new
fimits spring from tl^e connection that has been renewed
between the two Conrts, the assent granted to the before-
named Minister's solicitations is hereby sanctioned, as a
sovereign concession and gratuitous act on the part of his
Imperial Majesty ; and to take full and entire effect as soon
as farther amicable conferences shall have taken place with
the Minister our friend, for the purpose of determining the
burthen of the English yessels, the mode of transit by the
Canal of CkmstaniifwpUf and such other regulations and
conyentions as appertain to the object ; and which shall be
as exactly maintained and obserred with regard to the
JEngliA navigation, as towards any other the most faroured
nation. And in order that the Minister, our friend, do
inform his Court of this valuable grant, the present rescript
has been drawn up, and is delivered to him.
** ConUantmople, 1 Jemaa^F^il-JEmei, A. JSf. 1214.

30 October, A. D. 1799."

TRANSLATION.

Official Note delivered by the Rbis Effbnbi to ALEXANnsa
Stbatton, Esq. at a Conference in his ExceUenc%f$ House
on the Canal, the 29tA of July, 1802.
'' It behoves the character of true friendship and sincere
regard, to promote, with cheerfulness, all such afiSEurs and
objects as may be reciprocally useful, and may have a rank
among the salutary fruits of those steady bonds of alliance
and perfect good harmony which happily subsists between
the SubUme Porte and the Court of Cheat Britain : and
as permission has heretofore been granted for the English
merchant-ships to navigate in the JBlach Sea, for the pur-
poses of trade, the same having been a voluntary trait of

APPBNDTX, No II. 487

hiB Imperial Majesty's own gracious heart, as more amply
appears by an official note presented to our friend, the
English Minister residing at the Svblime Parte, dated
1 Jemazi-uUAhhirf 12141, this present Takrir* b issued;
the Imperial Court hereby engaging, that the same treat-
ment shall be observed towards the English merchant-ships
coming to that sea, as is offered to ships of Powers most
iGivonred by the Sublime Porte, on the score of that naviga-
tion.

S3 July, I80S."

(1) 80th Odoher, 1700. (3) Official Note.

488 APPENDIX, If 111.

No. III.

EXTRACT/row /AeLOG-BOOK oftht MODERAtO,

▲ TBKBTIAK BRIGAVTIKB,

Commtmdsd ky IL CAPITANO SIGNOR BBI^AHINI ;

lAUnJi^ irmmtlttttdfiram the OHginal Itaikm s

OiTing an Aceonnt of her Voyage in the Black Sea, tram the time
the quitted the Port of Odessa, until she arrired in the Ginal
of Constantineple,

N. B. The Da^ in this Journal, qfter the Observatum qf Iddiimde,
begin at Mid-^ay. Brfore the said Observation, they are dated at Sun-set
the preceding Evening, and the same while in Port tU Anchor*

Friday^ October 31, 1800.

Olear day — wind n. n. w. — During the night,
it had hlown from the North. — At day-hreak, the
Captain went on shore, to give notice to the
custom-house officer to come on hoard, and
make the usual visit, previous to the ship's
departure. — Wind fresh from the North — sky
clear. At eight a. m. the said officer came on
board. After his search was ended, weighed
anchor, and put to sea, accompanied by the
Picolo Aronetto, Captain G. Bergamtniy the
Captain's nephew. — Kept along the coast. — At
ten a. m. passed the Cape of Odessa.

APPENDIX, N III. 489

Continued steering s. s. w. along the coast,
till two o'clock p. M. in nine fathoms water.
At that hour, sounded in ten fathoms water.
Continued s. s. w. till five p. m. Made the
Point of Ak'kerman which bore n. w. at the
distance of ten miles. Continued the same
course, in ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms water,
with a gravelly bottom. — ^Thermometer, 48**.

Saturday f Nov. 1.

Little wind from sun-set till six a. m. — Steer-
ing s. 8* w. ; at which hour laid to, off the Isle
of Serpents^. Then steered s. w. and by s. with
wind N. s. w. At eight a. m. the said isle
bore N. and by e., distant about six miles.
From that time, till mid-day, steered s. and by
w. and made 14 miles' course.

Latitude observed at mid-day by three sex-
tants, 44®. 44^. — Thermometer 50®.

Sunday, Nov. 2.
Clear weather. — Little wind from noon till

(1) IsU qf 8erpent»--'<aJled Fidoniti by the modem Cfreeht, and
lUan-adda-H by the TurJks, We discovered it at three o'clock in the
momiog. An account of its antiquities may be found in the writlnga
of antient anthort alluded to in the Work. It appeared a bleak
mound, rising out of the sea, coyered only with low grass. Perhaps
a nearer inspection might have discovered Ruins. It is a remarkable
fiict, that the dolphins round this isle, and near the Mouths of the
Dannbtj are white.

490 APPENDIX, No lit.

six P. M. steering n. n. w. Afterwards a calm.
Remainder of the night, partly calm, and partly
light variable breezes. Our coarse w. s. w.
and s. w. At sun-rise saw the coast of St.
George^ (?) and land beyond. Till mid-day,
mostly calm, with southerly current. Course
during the day, about 23' westward, and 19
eastward. At noon, ditto weather, and smooth
water.

Latitude, 44°. 25'. Thermometer, 56^

Monday y Nov. 8.

Calm weather and clear, with little sea. The
sky sometimes overcast. At noon, the land just
in sight from the mast-head. Sounded in 30
fathoms water; gravel, with broken shells.
Course, by reckoning, 9' w. and 53' s.

Latitude, 43° 30. Thermometer, 53^.

Tuesday y Nov. 4.

Thick weather, and a good deal of swell.
From noon till five p. m. course s. s. w. with an
East wind. At that hour, made Cape Kel-leg-
ghray bearing s. w. and by w. about 20 miles
distant From this time and place, till noon, we
made about 50 miles' course, with an East wind,
a heavy sea, and cloudy weather. — -Thermo-
meter, 51°.

APPENDIX, No III. 491

Wednesday J Nov. 5.
Thick weather — light wind, and a heavy
swell. Discovered . that the ship made a little
water — about an inch every four hours ; owing
to the straining motion. From mid-day, till
eleven p. m. steered with little wind from the
East. Afterwards a calm, till two a. m. when
there sprung up a wind from the n. w. Con-
tinued our course to the South till six a. m.
At six, a calm. — Discovered the coast, — and at
day-break observed the land off the mouth of
the Canal of Constantinople^ distant 20 miles.
Calm till noon, with a heavy swell from the
East, which worked the ship very much. From
sun-set of the preceding evening, till noon
this day, had made 42' south. At noon, stood
opposite the light-house of the Canal, which
bore only ten miles distant to the West of us.
— Calm, with a heavy swell. — Thermometer, 53°-

Thursday^ Nov. 6.

Hazy weather. The wind calm, and a heavy
swell from the East. Continued to work the
pumps, the ship making an inch of water
every four hours. From noon, till five, light
variable breezes. Keeping the prow to the
sea, viz. to the South, at that hour, the wind
veered from the South to the s. s. e., which
caused us to keep the prow to the East ; little

492 APPENDIX, No UU

wind. Continued thus till six o^clock, a. m.,
when the wind veered to the s. s. w., and we
turned the prow to the West. At sun-rise the
wind strengthened very much. Reefed the
sails — the sea having calmed from the East^
and swelled from the s. w. At this time,
ohserved the mouth of the Canal of Constan-
iinople^ and distinguished the light-tower on
the Asiatic side. At ten o'clock, the wind
still increasing, and a heavy sea, we were
forced to take in all the ree& in the main-
topsail. At twelve mid-day, the wind and sea
rose to such a pitch, that we were forced to lower
the topsail, remaining only with the foresail, the
mainsail, the main-staysail, and the fore-stay-
saiL The sea rolled over the ships, from one side
of the deck to the other ; and we perceived, at
the same time, that the water in the hold had
risen even to the sentina^. Immediately we
pumped the ship. At noon, made the mouth
of the Canal, hearing s. and by w. distant
about 20 miles. Heavy sea, and tempestuous
weather. — Thermometer, QS^.

Friday f Nov. 7-
Weather exceedingly thick and dark. Wind

(1) So the word staDds in the origina]. Bat ientina means the pomp-
weU^ hito which the water must flow in order to be discharged.

APPENDIX, No III. 493

tempestous, and heavy sea. Obliged to work
the pumps every hour: the ship making two
inches of water. From noon, till four p. m.^
steering with a tempestuous wind for the s. s. w.
At this hour, the mouth of the Canal bore
s. s. w., distant about 25 miles. On a sudden,
experienced a gale of wind from the n. w. so
unexpected and tremendous, that we had
scarcely time to lower the sails, and were
compelled to scud before it' ; encountering for
an hour an hurricane of wind and sea from the
N. w., which at the same time met the heavy
sea from the s. w. in such a manner, that
at evey pitch the ship made, her bowsprit was
carried under the water ; our vessel at the same
time labouring so much, that the sea washed
entirely over her, and we were obliged to nail
up all the port-holes and other apertures.
At five p. M. the great fury of the hurricane
abated. Put the ship a la capa\ with the prow
to the s. w. carrying only the jib and mainsail.

(1) The common and only resource of TurkUh Tessels in a storm;
bot never used by European ships, unless in cases of imminent and
absolute danger. Had the storm continued another half hour, with
the same violence, we must hai^ been inevitably lost, even supposing
her to sustain the violence of the sea> as we had a lea^shore under
the ship's prow.

(8) *A la capa* is, lit«raUy; lying to, with the helm harda-ke.

494 APPENDIX, No III.

with three reefs, with a view to get clear of the
land; at the same time, the storm still con-
tinued with such fury, that the sea rolled over
the deck from one side to the other. At six
p. M. the wind veered to the s. w. again ^ ; so
that, what with the sea from the n. w. and firom
the s. w. meeting it, the ship laboured beyond
all measure, and we were compelled to keep
the pumps going every hour. At eight p. m.
took in the jib, with the view, if possible, to
keep the prow more to the sea ; the great fury of
the wind and sea continuing without abatemenl^
and the sea continually passing over us from
one side to the other, so that the deck was con-
tinually fall of water. Matters continued in this
manner till mid-day, when the fury of the wind
somewhat abated. Unreefed, and set the main-
sail ; the same tremendous sea still continuing,
and the deck being always full of water. From
four A. M. till noon, we had made about 20 miles
course towards the East, allowing for lee-way.
At noon, made the high land to the Southward
of the mouth of the Canal, bearing to the s. w.

(1) Perbaps a greater commotioii cannot be raifed in the sea than
what was here witnessed. The wind haying raged with vlolenee for a
length of time from the s. w. had raised a prodigious sea. It was m«t
by a hurricane from an opposite quarter, the two seas encountering
each other : and in the course of two hours it veered to the
point again, when the sea became horrible beyond all description.

APPENDIX, No. III. 495

and distant about 30 miles. The extreme of
the land visible on the Asiatic shore, bearing £•
by s. — Thermometer, 51^'

Saturdajfj Nov. 8.

Very thick weather. Wind tempestuous, and
a very heavy sea. Kept the pumps going, the
ship still making two inches of water in an
hour. From noon till three a. m. continued
steering with the prow to the North, and our
course corrected n. e. by e. having continually
a stormy wind from the w. k. w. and a pro-
digious heavy sea. At three, the wind veered
to the North. Wore ship's head to the West.
Continued thus till ten a. m. when we saw the
coast of Anatolia, near the mouth of the Canal.
Then steered to the w. s. w. towards the said
land } having at that time let out all the reefs,
and set the greater sails. Continued thus till
noon, when there fell a calm ; a prodigious
heavy sea remaining from the k. w. which
made the ship labour in such a manner, that
the deck was continually covered with water,
causing also great damage to the upper works
and sails. Lowered and furled all the sails,
leaving every thing under bare poles. — Ther-
mometer, 53**.

Sunday, Nov. 9.
Thick weather — wind calm, imd a heavy sea.

495 APPBKDIX, No III.

Kept the pumps continually going. From noon
to six p. M., calm, with a prodigious heavy sea
from the N. w. which caused the ship to labour
exceedingly, and did great damage to the works
and rigging; the deck being at the same time
always full of water, which, with the ship's rolling,
washed from one side to the other. At six, a
light breeze from the Southward. Came to the
wind on the larboard tack : head s. 8. w., ship
labouring less. At ten p. m. the wind veered
to the s. 8. w., which obliged us to put the
prow to the West, having at the same time
much calmed the sea. At eight o'clock a. k.
the mouth of the Canal bore to the s. s. w. of
us, distant about 30 miles. From the time
of this observation, till noon, made twelve miles'
course to the w. n. w., the wind s. w. by s.
The sea calmed from the n. w. and somewhat
swelled from s. w. — Thermometer, 56.

Monday f Nov. 10.

Very thick weather. Light wind, and a heavy
sea from the s. w. Continued to work the
pumps as before. From noon till midnight, con-
tinued to steer with a stormy wind from the
s. s. w. Course corrected, w. and by n, 36^.
From mid-night to seven a. m. wind from s. w.
Course corrected, w. and by n. 28'. At this

)

APPENDIX, Ko III. 497

hour saw the coast on the European side ; viz.
the land towards Inneadda, and the coast to the
N. w. Also the mountain Gabbiam hearing to
the K. w. of Inneadda. Towards nooui steered
with little wind from s. w. Course, e. to n. w.
hy w. !(/. The sea much hecalmed. Dis-
covered that the ship heeled on her starhoard
side. Opened the port-holes and hatches on
the larhoard side, and moved part of her
cargo ; endeavouring as much as possible to set
her right } hut she still heeled somewhat towards
her starhoard side. — Thermometer, 60°.

Tuesday f Nov. 11.

Atmosphere somewhat overcast. Light wind,
and little sea. Continued to pump as before.
From noon till nine p. m. steered with the prow
to the N. w. with wind from w. s. w. The wind
afterwards veered to the w. by n. and turned
her side with the prow to the 8. s. w. Light
favourable wind. Continued steering thus till
ten A. M. when the wind veered to the s. s. w.;
and being to the windward of the port of /nne-
addoj turned the ship's bow with the prow to
the West, towards the said port ; being deter-
mined to anchor there, and endeavour to set
the ship right on her keel. At four p. m., cast
anchor in the middle of the port of Inneadda,
in SIX fathoms water, with a small gravelly

498 APPENDIX, N® III.

bottom, mixed with black sand. The same
wind continued till towards sun-set, when there
fell a calm. — Thermometer, 53^.

Wednesday^ Nov. 12.

Atmosphere somewhat overcast, and a calm.
Continued to pump as before. Laid at anchor.
Light breezes of wind. In this day opened the
hatches and port-holes, to right the ship as
much as possible — moved part of her cargo —
repaired and altered part of the rigging, and
sent the crew ashore for water. — ^Thermo-
meter, 60®.

Thursday f Nov. 13.

Atmosphere somewhat overcast, and calm
wind. Continued to pump as before. Laid at
anchor. The whole night passed with light
breezes of wind, and calm ; also all the rest
of the day till sun-set. This day employed
in repairing various damages sustained in the
rigging, &c. — Thermometer, 67°.

Friday^ Nov. 14.

Atmosphere overcast. Calm. Continued to
pump as before. Remained at anchor. From
sun-set to mid-night, calm, and atmosphere
somewhat overcast. Afterwards it became
cloudy on all sides, and there sprung up a
slight wind from the West, which continued

APPENDIX, No III. 499

till ten A. M., when the wind veered to the
East, and the atmosphere became very turbid
on all sides, especially from the North to the
East; at the same time a heavy sea rolling
into the port from the East. A slight wind
continued till sun-set, a turbid sky, and a
heavy sea. About twenty Turkish boats entered
the port this day from various places, bound
for Constantinople^ and waiting for favourable
weather.

Saturday, Nov. 15.
Very thick weather. Little wind, and a
heavy swell. Remained at anchor : continued to
work the pumps, although the water diminished,
and we only pumped two inches in twenty-four
hours. From sun-set till eight a. m. a slight
wind frtmi the East At that time the wind
veered to the s. w., having swelled the sea,
which, entering the port from the East, made
the ship labour very much ; so that we were
obliged to anchor the poop, with a small cable
to keep the ship with the prow to the sea, which
eased her very much. All the rest of the night,
and the following day till sun-set, the same
wind continued, with an atmosphere exceed-
ingly turbid on all sides.

Sunday^ Nov. 16.
Very thick weather. Moderate wind and a

VOL. II. 2 K

500 APPENDIX, No III.

heavy sea. ' Remained at anchor ^ continued to
pump as before. The whole day a s. w. wind.
Atmosphere exceedingly turbid, and the wind
sometimes stormy ; all which continued so till
sun-set.

In the afternoon, Captain Morini^ from Odessa,
arrived in the port, bound to Constantinople^
having had six days' passage. Also two
Turkish boats from the same place.

Monday J Nov. I7.

Very thick weather. Stormy wind, and a
heavy sea. Continued to pump as before.
Remained at anchor the whole night and day.
Till sun-set, a stormy wind from the s. w. and
a cloudy atmosphere; everywhere exceedingly
overcast. At sun-set the wind somewhat calmer.
During the night, arrived in the port. Captain
BilaffeTj from Odessa^ laden with com, bound to
Constantinople ; having had six days' voyage.

Tuesday, Nov. 18.

Very thick weather. Little wind, and a
heavy sea from the East. Continued to pump
as before. Remained at anchor in the port.

AH night and day, till sun -set, breezes fit)m
the £. s. £. and £., and a little sea from the

APPENDIX, No III. 501

East. Atmosphere continued turbid. This day,
raised the small anchor.

Wednesday J Nov. 19.

Thick weather. Light wind, and a little sea
from the East. Continued to pump as before.
Remained at anchor. The whole night, light
breezes of wind from the East, and a dark fog.
The remainder of the day with light breezes
of wind, scattered and cloudy, with rain, which
continued till sun-set.

Thursday^ Nov. 20.

Very thick weather. Calm ; with rain, and
a little sea from the East. Continued to pump
as before. Remained at anchor. The whole
night, till day-break, a wind from s. s. e. with
rain ; and the whole day, till sun-set, with
unsettled variable winds from all points, and
heavy rain, with intervals of calm wind and
rain.

Friday^ Nov. 21.

Very thick weather. Calm, and little sea from
the s. £. Continued to work the pumps.
Remained at anchor. From sun-set, till six
o'clock, calm. At this hour there sprung up
a light breeze from the South, and the at-
mosphere cleared, only remaining thick towards
the East, which was covered with a dark fog.

2 K 2

502 APPENDIX, No III.

Continued thus till ten p. m., when the wind
veered to the w. s. w., and the atmosphere
became quite clear. Inunediately weighed
anchor and set sail, spreading all ihe great
sails to the wind. When the anchor came on
board, found it had lost one of its claws. All
the vessels and boats in the port also set
sail, steering to the s. e. with the said wind.
Continued thus until three o'clock after mid-
night; at which hour we had made 90 nules'
course to the s. e. Then succeeded a calm,
and this continued until half-after-three, when
the atmosphere became turbid on all sides.
At four A.M. a stormy wind rose from the
North, accompanied with rain. Made our
course to the £• by s. till eight a. m. when
we discovered the coast near the mouth of
the Canal, and steered to the s. e. At this
time there came on heavy rain, which con-
tinued till noon, with thick fog; and it was
very dark, insomuch that we could no longer
see land. At noon, the rain being somewhat
diminished, but the stormy wind and a pro-
digious sea continuing, we discovered the light-
tower off the mouth of the Canal, on the
European side, at no great distance. Imme-
diately let go all the flying sails : stemiig to
the South, directly towards the moath of ite
Canals the wind having somewhat, x

APPENDIX, No III. 503

although the rain fell in torrents; and such
darkness prevailed, that we could with diffi-
culty discern the land.

At three o'clock p. m. arrived, opposite to
Boyouk-derrehy in the Canal ; and at five p. m.
cast anchor at Jemkeuy^ letting go the great
anchor with the new cable, there not being
time to lash the middle cable above the small
anchor, the middle cable having broken in the
harbour of Inneadda. Fastened also two cables
to land ; our anchorage being very near the
shore, in six fathoms water.

504

APPENDIX, No IV.

No. IV.

LIST OF THE PLANTS

COLLECTED BY THE AUTHOR
DURING HIS DIFFERENT JOURNEYS IN THE CRIMEA;

PBINCIPALLT IN COMPANY WITn BIS FBIXNO

PROFESSOR PALLAS.

ALPHABBTICALLT ARRAIIGKD.

Achillea tomentom

AeffUops tquarroia.

Affrimonia Eupatoria

Ajugaalpma . . .

Aleeaficifoiia . . .

Allium deseendent

AlUum subhirtutum .

Alygtum incamim .

AmaryUit belladonna

Anabaria aphylla.

AnagalUs arvensU

(fiore Phoenlcio) . .

AnehuM anguMtifolia
Anchuaa tinctoria . .
Andropogon i$c)utmum
Androfoee $eptentrumalu.
AntirrJiiman linaria
Apium graveolens
Apocynum venetum
Arabit alpina . .
ArabU glandijiora
Arenaria marina
i.ristolochia dematilit

Cottony IfillbU.

Common Agrimony.
Moantain Bogle.
Fig-leaved Manhmallow.
Deep-rooted Qarlick.
Dwarf Qarlick
Hoary Alysson.
Belladonna Lily . .

From Gardens.

Parple-flowered Pimpernel.. lu the groves of Uk

Si9iabtla Mountains South
of the Crimea,

Narrow-leaved Bngloss.

Dyers' Bngloes.

Beard-grass.

Yellow Toad-flax.
Wild Celery.
Venetian Dog-hane.
Alpine Rock-cress.
Great-flowered Rock-cresf.
Sea Sandwort.
Climbing Birthwort.

APPENDIX, No IV.

505

A rtemiHa eampettris

A$ciepia$ mneetoxieum
A$phodelus luteut ....
Asphodelui Tauricui,*

AiterameUut Italian Starwort.'

Aster Tr^liwn Sea Starwort.

Field Woimwood* , Large downy excrescenecfl grow

apon this plant from the per-
forations of insects, which
are made use of by the 2ViA-
tars to light their pipes.

Common Swallow-wort

Yellow Asphodel.

A$traffalu8 Austriaeut . .

A$iragdluM detUbatu^ . .

Attragaituhypogloitis . .
ArtragtUua onobrychioi'deg*

Attragaliu pUosui . . .
AHragalui utriger^

Aftragalui virgatut . . .

Borttgo OrientalU . . .

Bromus tquarrotus . . .

Bupleumm temdBiimum .

Butomui umbellatui . .

Campanula hybrida . .

CampttntUa Wifolia . . .

Campitnula stricta . . .

Austrian Milk-yetch.
Whitish Milk-vetch.
Purple Mountain Mllk-Tetch.
Sainfoin-like Milk-vetch.
Hairy Milk-vetch.

Twiggy Milk-vetch.

Oriental Borage.

CJom Brome-grass . . In the South of the Crimea.

Slender Hare's-ear.

Flowering-rush.

Mule Bell-flower.

Lily-leaved Bell-flower.

Erect Bell-flower.

Carduus pulcher^ (nova species) Fair Thistle.

Carpinui OrientaiW .
Carthamu$ lanatui,
Ceniawrea buxbaumiatia.'^
Centaurea/rigida . . .
Centiiurea lineata . .
Centaurea radiata . . .

Oriental Hornbeam.

Centaurea Romana

Northern Knapweed. . Steppes.

Streaked Knapweed.

Rayed Knapweed . . On the Steppes near KoHqf,

Called by the Tahtars,
KuraL The sheep feed
on it in winter, and it is
supposed to give them
that grey wool so much
valui^ by the Taktare.

Roman Knapweed . . Sea^oast on the mountains

in the South.

(\J PallM. n) Dec Virgir» Gvorgic*, IV. 971—176. (S) PalUs. (\) Bibcntdn.

f%) IbM. (^J P«llas. (1) Willdcnow. (%) Pdlat.

506 APPENDIX, No IV*

Centaurea SUnrioa .... Siberian Knapweed.

Centaurea ioUtitialU . . . Saint Bamaby's TUitle.

Centaurea Tahtarica . . . Tahtarian Knapweed.

Ceraetium alpinutn .... Mountain Moose-ear.

Cerasiium tomentoium . . . Woolly Monse-ear.

Ceratoearput arenarhu . . Sand Homwort Pereeap.

Cerinthe minor Small Honeywort.

CheiranthMU odaratiuimus . Taurian Oilly-flower.

Chrytoeoma grandn\folia . . Grass-leaved Goldylocks.

Chryeoeoma vUlota .... Downy Goldylocks.

Ciehoriumudyfmt .... Wild Endive, or Succory.

Cistusfumana Prostrate Rock-roee.

Citttu helianthemum . . . Dwarf Cistus.

Cuhu anguttifoliui .... Narrow-leaved Rock-rose.

Clematii vUalda Travellers'-joy.

CUnopodium vulgare . . . Wild Basil.

Colehicum vemwn^ .... Spring Meadow-saffiron.

Concolmilus arvennt . . . Common Bindweed.

Cmwohultu Cantabrica . . Silky Bindweed.

Ckmoolmdua Cneorum • . . Silvery Bindweed.

ColvolvuluM lineaius . . • Streaked Bindweed.

Convolvulus terreitris . . . Creeping Bindweed.

Corispermum tquarrotum* Scaly Tick-seed.

Comuanuueula Male Cornel-cherry.

CoroniUa eoronaia.

Crocus satiouM Antomnal Meadow-«tAon • • Steppes, near Ab-

meiehei. Oct. 10, 1800.
Cffnoglossum qffldnaU . . . Common Hound's-tongoe.
Cyperus Pamnonieus*

Daweus earota Wild Carrot.

D^pkudum Jjaeis .... Rocket .... On this flower appear the letteit

AIAIA.'
De^hinium eonsolida . . . Branching Rocket.
Dianthus arenarius^ . . . Oriental Pink.

(D. Orientalis. Curtis's Botanical Magazme.)
Dianthus phunarius . . . Feathered Pink.

rV Pallas. rtj Ibid. (V " Die, qaibos In terris iiiMripU nooiiae

C^J Ibi<1. Nascanmr flores ; et PhilfcU mIm habcto." rirfU.

APPENDIX, No IV.

507

DiatUhus taiinuB,t . > • .
l>Umthu$ taxatUii *
Dor^enium herbaeeun^ . .
Doryoittim numMpelien»e.
Draeoeephalum altaicum . .
Draeoeephalum grandyUtmnu
Draeoeephalum Taurieum:*

Sehinoptritro

B^mm Orientale ....
JBehium rubrum

SpiloMum hiriutum . . .
BpUobium roeeum . . . .
Srigeran viUarHu*
Srifeimum barbarea . • .
Btumymus verruDosus . . .
Saumifmvs lat\folwt . . .
Eupkorlna hyherna ....

Eyphratia lutea

Euphroiia odantitea . . .
Franhndakireuta . . . .
Fucut asplencSdea . . . .

On the mountain Tehetirdagh.

Altai Dragon'8-head.

Great Flowered Dragon's-head.

Small Globe-Thistle.

Oriental Viper's-Bngloss.

Red-flowered Vjper*8-Baglo08.«Gum u made from

the roots.

Hairy Willow-herb.
Smooth Willow-herb.

Bitter Winter-cress.

Warty Spindle-Tree.

Broad-leaved Spindle-Tree.

Winter Spnige.

YeUow Eye- Bright

Red Eye-Bright.

Hairy Sea-Heath.

Tamer's Faci, Table 02. • Found at the Pc^t of

Phanarij in the HeradeoUe
Peninsula, near the Ruins
of the Old Chereoneeui of
Sirabo. Only found befbre
at Priitee WiUiam'e Sotmd,
in Captain Vaneouver^e Toy-
age, and on the sluuva of
Kamtsehatka.

. Snow-Drop.

Oalega qffieinaUs * . .

. . Goafs-Rue.

OoHum gUttseum* . . .

. Sea-green Ladies' Bed-Stnw.

OaUMm rtUrioide$ . . .

. . Madder-like Ladies' Bed-Stnw.

Oalium eghHiiieum . •

. . Wood Ladies' Bed-Straw •• Near Perecop.

OeiUiatiaMpien^Uia .

. . Sevencleft Gentian.

Oeranhim roiwui^olium

. . Round-leaved Crane's-Bill.

Geranium tanguUteum .

•

. . Bloody Crane's-Bill.

ru Paliai.

r%J IbM. raj WilideBow.

r4J Pallaj.

fij Willdenow. r9J PalU*.

508

APPEKDIX, No IV.

Oeratmimi^lvatieum . .

. Wood Crane't-Bill . . . Steppes.

Gieehomahedertieea . .

Ground l?y.

Ol^e^rrkiaa glabra . . .

. Common Liqnorioe.

OyptophUa glomerataJ*

Hedy$arum (orgenteum*

Hedytarum cretaeewn?

Hedymrum Tauneumj*

Helianthui tuberasui . .

. . Jerosalflm Artichoke . . . Fields ni Akmeieket.

Helioiropium Europteum .

. . Tunifole.

Hemiaria kirsuia . . .

, . Hdry Raptnre-wort

. . Smooth Raptoie-wort

Hetperis Tahtariea^ . .

. TBhtarian Nigbt-Vlolet.

SordgumnuirinMnn •

. . Wall Barley.

Hyaeinthui botryouU$ . .

. Orape Hyacinth.

Hyacmthut eomotui • .

. . Pnrple Orape Hyacinth.

HyathUhuafiUiginogu^

. . Sooty Hyacinth.

Illeeebrum eaptiatum .

. . Downy Knot-Grass.

Uleedfrum paronychia . .

. . Shining Knot-Gross.

Impatient nolirtangere .

. . Toaeh-me-not. Yellow Balsam.

Innda dysenterica

Inula ensifolia.

Irit oekroleuea . . .

. . Pale Sword-LUy.

Iria tenuyblia . . . .

. Fine-leayed Sword- Lily.

luneui aeutua ....

. . Sharp Rush.

Lamiutn ampUxieaule . .

Henbit.

lanumflqvum . . . .

. Yellow-flowered Flax.

Limtmhimttum . . . .

. Hairy-Flax.

.Lintim iViar&(m«fM« . .

. . Narl>onne Flax.

LUho$permum ditpermum.

. . Two-seeded Gromwell.

Loniceraccerulea. . . .

Bine-berried Honeysuckle.

Lanieera xyloateum . . .

. . Fly-Honeysuckle.

. . Bird's-foot Trefoil.

LyeopriapuUa . . .

. . Dark-flowering Wild-Bugloss.

Lyeopris veHcaria . . .

. Inflated Wild-Buglots.

XymiacAia vulgaris . .

. Yellow Loose-Strife.

' . Twiggy Willow -Herb

ri>) PalUf.

C^J IbM. rMJ Ibid.

r4^ IMd.

rsj Ibid. re; iMd

APPENDIX, No IV.

509

Marrubium peregrinum
MetHeago lupulina
MeHea lanata . .
Mentha tylvettris
Mciucetta ttiberoaa,
Mjfotoiu lappula
Nepeta nuda . .
NigeUa damoMcena
Oeymum btuiiieum
OUa JSurop<Ba
OnoniM hireina
Onatma eehidk'det

Onatma nmplicissima. '

Onotma Tauriccu^

Origtamm Heraeleotieum .

OmUkogabim Hreinatum!^ i
(O. retienlatum) )

Omithogalum prol\ferum 3

Ormtkogalum un^florum

Orobaneki eemua^ .

Paoma triternaia^ .

PoHieum daet^lon .

PatueumnlHde . .

Pediemian$ htberoBu

Peganum harmala .

Phleum areruuium .
Phleum sehcmdides .
Phiomii herborvenii,
PhyMdii alkekengi .
Phgteuma cane^oens^
Pierit hieraeio'ide$ .
PUnpineUa dUriea
Poa erittata . . .
PdycnemMun arven»e»
Pdgcnemum wUvoxJ

(1) PalUi.
(5) IMd.

RambUng Horehound.
Black Medick. Nonesuch.
Wooly Melic-Qrass.
Wood Mint.

Prickly-seeded Scorpion-Grass.

Smooth Calamint.

Common Fennel- Flower.

Sweet Basil .... Gardens.

Common Olive.

Smooth Rest-Harrow.

The Tahtars use the root

to paint a rouge.

Winter Marjoram.

Netted Star of Bethlehem.

Proliferous Star of Bethlehem.

One-flowered Star of Betlilehcni.

Nodding Broom-Rape.

DdTurian Peeony.

Fingered Panic-Grass.

Green-flowered Panic-GrasH.

Tuberous Lousewort.

... At Kqffh,— The Tahtars send the seeds

to Ikirkey, as a cure for worms.
Sand Cat's-tail Grass.
Rush-like Cat*s-tail Grass.

Winter Cherry.
Hoary Rampion.
Hawkweed-like Ox-tongue.
Dwarf Bnmet-Saxifrage.
Crested Meadow-Grass.

(•i)IbHl.

(A) Waldslein.

(3) Iblfl.
(7) P«ll«».

(4; ibkl.

510

APPENDIX, No IV.

Poly gala mqjor . . .
Polygonum ntaritimum
PotentUla argentea . .
PotentiUa recta . . .
Prenanthei vimlnea,
PsoraJsa Mtundnoia,
Puniea granatum . .
Banunetdus aurieomui
Rammeulus pedaius i .
Reteda hitea ....
Bhododendron daurieum
Rhuicoriaria , . .
Rhu$eotmu» ....

Greater Milk-wort.

Sea Bistort . . . Near Pereeop.

Silvery Gooee-Qraas.

Upright CinqnefbU.

Pomegranate.

Goldy-locks. Wood Crowfoot.

Small Crowfoot.

Baae Rocket.

Daurian Rosebay.

Elm-leaved Samacb.

Venice Sumach .

BUfeimgrum . .
Rosapygmtsa
Bumexeritpua .
Bumex denUUus .
Saiicomia herbaoea
Salsola braekiata*
SaUolaiali . .
Salaolaioda . .

Black Currant .
Dwarf Bo0e . .
Corled Dock.
Toothed Dock.
Olaaewort
Armed Saltwort.
Prickly Saltwort
Saltwort . .

The Tahtart give the ydhm
colour to their moroceo
with this.

On the lof)^ praci|iie6s of

iMamkeop.

PtTtOOp^

Ruins of the Old Om-
tonese, on the little fortras
near AUxiano'i CkouUr.

Salvia .XthiopU .
Saima gUUinma .
Salvia HaHUzkma^
Salvia Horminum
Salvia nemorota .
Salvia qffMnalii .
Salvia pr€tteimt •
Salvia verbenaea .
Saponaria qffieinalii
Seatrioia argentea
Seabioea leucatUha
Seabioia maritima
Scabioaa HMata .

Woolly Sage.
Clammy Sage. .
Scabious-leaved Sage.
Red-topped Sage.
Wood Sage.
Common Sage.
Meadow Clary.
Vervain.

Common Soapwort.
Silvery Scabious.
White-flowered Scabious.
Sea«8ide Scabious.
Starry Scabious.

(1) Walrfstein.

(S) PaUas.

(3) IbM.

APPENDIX, No IV.

SeabioM Ukraniea .... Ukraine Scabious.

Sehagmu aeuUatus .... Prickly Rush.

SeiUa autumnali» .... Autumnal Squill.
SeropAti2artaeArjfMR<Aein|/o/ta,i Ox-eye Daisy-leaved Flgwort.

SeuieUaria OrientaHs . . • Oriental Scull-cap.

Sedumaere Stone-Crop.

8edum album White Stone-Crop.

Sedum $axatile Rock Stone- Crop.

511

Sedum sexangulare .
Seneeio eruc\foliu» .
SeaeH diehotomum,%
8e§eU gummiferuni^
SideritU mcniana
SideriiU Syriaea. .
SiUne bella* (nova species).
Stieme quadr\fida . .
^Knopif erueo'ides . .
Siii^mbrium LoeselU
Sitffmbrium Pcmnofdeum
dUymbrUim Pyrendieum
Sium/alearia • .
.SoUmum dulcamara
Sorbut domi'stiea . .
Spirma JUipendula .
Statiee ferulacea . .
Staiiee trigona . .

StipaeapiUata . .
Symphytum Orientale
Tamarix OaUiea
Tamacetum vulgare .
Teuerium eapitatum
Teuerium ehamapUys
Teuerium montanum
Teuerium polium
I%e$ium UnophyUum.

Insipid Stone-Crop.
Hedge Ragwort.

Mountain Ironwort.
Syrian Ironwort.

Tower-cleft Catch-fly . . Steppes near Pereeop,

Ragged-leaved Wild MusUrd.

Loesel's f ledge-Mustard . . Steppes near Perteop,

Pannonian Hedge-Mustard.

Pyrenean Rocket.

Sickle-leaved Water-Parsnip.

Woody Nightshade.

Service.

Dropwort.

Fennel-like Sea-Pink.

Three-sided Sea -Lavender . . In the Steppes very

frequent.
Hair-like Feather-Grass.
Oriental Comfrey.
French Ttoiarisk.
Common Tansy.
Headed Germander.

Ground Pine Pereeop.

Mountain Germander.
Poly, or Sweet Germander.

(1) BiberttelD. (S) Pall«s. (3) Ibid.

(4) 9Um» caole decnrobente ram<MO, rainli glabriascQlis.foUU Unceolatii sUbris trinerriii ; flori-
\«t ruelcnlatit tennioallbas, caljeibm strlalic, pilotlatculls longiMimls, petalia inicgrift. 1^*

512

I%ymut ManehaUianuti
Thymus Zyffis*

APPENDIX, No IV,

lilianuti J ,« . «-

s . Tanrian Thyme.

• • • 9

TUiaJEhavpma

Troffopogon OrientaiU . .

TrilnUus terrutris»

Tiifi^ium melUotuS'qffkinalU

Tr\folium subterraneum

Triffonella Buthenica ,

TrUieum proitratum

Ulmmpumila . . .

VerbaMCum Phteniteum

Verbena qfficinalU . .

Veronica alpina.

Veronica incana . . .

Veromea lonff\foiia . .

Veronica multifiiia • .

Veronica proeumbens
(nova species)

Veronica vema . .

Vieia Paimoniea . .

Vitex Anffue-Ctutus

Xeranthemum annuttm

Zygophyllumfabajfo

PstaTian ThyflDe.
Comraon Lime-Tree.
Oriental Ooat't*beard.

Melilot.

Subterranean Trefoil.
Russian Ftougreek.
Prostrate Wheat-Grass.
Dwarf Elm.
Pur]>Ie Mullein.
Vervain.

Hoary Speedwell.
Long-leaved Qermander.
Hauycleft Germander.

Procumbent Germander.

Spring Germander.
Pannonian Vetch . .
Chaste-Tree.
Annual Cudweed.
Bean Caper.

Steppes.

(1) WilMeoow.

(S) Pallas.

APPENDIX, No V. 513

No. V.

TEMPERATURE op the ATMOSPHERE,

AOOORDINO TO

DIURNAL OBSERVATION MADE DURING THE AUTHOR'S TRAVELS ;

WITH

A CORREaPONDINO STATEMENT OF TEMPERATURE IN ENGLAND

Daring the Mme Period,

AS EXTRACTED FROM THE REGISTER KEPT IN THE APARTMENTS OF THE ROYAL
SOaETY OF LONDON, BY ORDER OF TUB PREBIDENT AND COUNCIL.

■MWWWMIMMWI*

N. B. The Ob$ervationa during the Journey were alwayt made at Noon : thote of
the Royal Society at Two p. m. ; and both on the Scale qf Fahrenheit.

UbMrration (

m the

Observation

in London

Sok of Fahrenheit.

Where made.

When made.

on the same Day.

82^ {

Freezing \
Point 1

Petersburg^

April 3, 1800.

49"

Novogorod,

April 4.

Yaschelbizy,

April 5.

Vysneulilykoy,

April 6.

Gk>rodna;

April 7.

Tcbemaia,

April 8.

4ld

Moscow,

April 9.

Moscow,

April 10.

Moscow,

April 11.

Moscow,

April 12.

Moscow,

April 13.

Moscow,

April 14.

Moscow,

April 15.

Moscow,

April 16.

Moscow,

April 17.

514 APPENDIX, No V.

Obtervation oo th*

OUerratii

Ml inLoodmi

Seak of Fabreiiheit.

Where BMde.

When made. oo the

tame Dqr.

60°

Moscow,

April 18, 1800.

61'

Moscow,

April 19.

Moscow,

April 20.

Moscow,

April 21.

Moscow,

April 22.

Moscow,

April 23.

Moscow,

April 24.

Moscow,

April 26.

Moscow,

April 26.

Moscow,

April 27.

Moscow,

April 28.

Moscow,

April 29.

Moscow,

April 30.

31-

Moscow,

May 1.

Moscow,

May 2.

Moscow,

May 3.

Moscow,

May 4.

Moscow,

May 6.

Moscow,

May 6.

Moscow,

May 7.

Moscow,

May 8.

Moscow,

May 9.

Moscow,

May 10.

Moscow,

May 11.

Moscow,

May 12.

Moscow,

May 13.

Moscow,

May 14.

Moscow,

May 16.

Moscow,

May 16.

Moscow,

May 17.

Moscow,

May 18.

Moscow,

May 19.

Moscow,

May 20.

Moscow,

May 21.

APPENDIX, No V* 515

C%MrratioB on the

Obeoration in London

SealaofFalureDlieit. Wbera mitde.

When made, on the

nmedqr.

770

Moscow,

May 22, 1800

e2>

Moscow,

May 23.

Moscow,

May 24.

Moscow,

May 25.

Moscow,

May 26.

Moscow,

May 27.

Moscow,

May 2a

Moscow,

May 29.

Moscow,

Mayaa

Moscow,

May 31.

Grischinka,

Jane 1.

Celo Volotia,

June 2.

Tula,

June 3.

Tola,

June 4.

Bokhoy Platj,

Jane 5.

Eletz,

Jane 6.

Woronetz,

June 7.

Woronetz,

June 8.

Woroneti,

Jane 9.

Woronetz,

Jane 10.

Woronetz,

Jane 11.

Woronetz,

June 12.

C Steppe between Ekortzy
( and lestakovo,

> Jane 13.

Paulovskoy,

June 14.

Kasankaia,

June Id.

ELasankaia,

June 16.

Lazovai,

June 17.

Elamenskaia,

June 18.

In the Steppes,

June 19.

^Lxay,

June 20.

Tcherkask,

Jane 21.

Tcherkask,

June 22.

Tdmkask,

JaneSS.

▼OL. II.

«&

510

APPENDIX, Nc

t V.

Obaerration on

I the

Obierration in Laadaa

Scale of Fahren

heit. Where made.

Wliennud*. on tlic

same day.

80o

Axaj,

June 24, 1800.

72»

Ixaj,

Jane 25.

River Don near

Rastof,

June 26.

River Don near

Rastof,

June 27.

Taganrog,

Jane 28.

Taganrog,

June 29.

Taganrog,

June 30.

Taganrog,

July 1.

Taganrog,

July 2.

Taganrog,

July 3.

Sea of Azof,

July 4.

Steppe near Aeskoy,

July 6.

Steppe near Protchalnoy,

July 6.

Steppe near Penovra,

July 7.

Ekaterinedara,

July 8.

Ekaterinedara,

July 9.

Steppe near Kara Kuban^

, July 10.

Temrook,

July 11.

"Sea of Azof near

Taman,

July 12.

Sea of Azof near

Yenikale

, July 13.

YenikaUy

July 14.

Yenikale,

July 16.

Yenikal6,

July 16.

Yenikal6,

July 17.

Yenikale,

July 18.

Kertchy,

July 19.

Sultanovka,

July 20.

Aegibin,

July 21.

Caffa,

July 22.

Karasubazar,

July 23.

Akmetchet,

July 24.

Akmetchet,

July 26.

Akmetchet,

July 26.

Akmetchet,

July 27.

APPENDIX,

, Nov.

KTMiooMltlie

m^m^. 0

<oll,«.»uD

77.

Akmetchet,

Jul; 28, 1800.

71>

Akmetchet,

July 29.

Akmetchet,

July 30.

Aimetdttt,

July 31.

Bakulienni,

Aug.' 1.

Altiu,

Aug. 2.

Akdlr,

A,,;. 3.

BalaclaTa,

Aug. 4.

Sartaij,

Aug. 6.

Aloupka,

Aug. 6.

Ai'udagh,

Aug. 7.

Aliul^

Aug. 8.

AJtmetchet,

Aug. 9.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 10.

Akmetchet.

Aug. 11.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 12.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 13.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 14.

Akmetchet.

Aug. 16.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 16.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 17.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 18.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 19.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 20.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 21.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 22.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 23.

Aug. 24.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 23.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 28.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 27.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 28.

Akmetchet,

Aug. 29.

Aknelohet,

Aug. 30.

518

APPENDIX, No V.

OlMmtuco

ntlw

VtHonud.. <H>tI»

■UBCD

e»

Akmetchet,

Aug. 31, 1800

TO'

Akmetchet,

Sept. 1.

Akmstehet,

Sept. 2.

AkmeUihet,

Sept. 3.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 4.

Sept. 5.

Near Akmetchet,

Sept. 6.

Motmt. above Balaclava

1, Sept. 7.

Raina near Balaclava,

Sept. 8.

ShAM,

Sept. 0.

Akmelchtt,

Sept. 10.

Akmetdhet,

Sept. 11. .

Akmetchet,

Sept. 12.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 13.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 14.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 16.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 16.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 17.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 18.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 19.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 20.

Akmctcliet,

Sept. 21.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 22.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 23.

7«

Akmetchet,

Sept. 24.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 26.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 26.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 27.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 28.

Koslof,

Sept. 29.

Akmetchet,

Sept. 30.

Akmetchet,

Oct. 1.

JiO

Akmetchet,

Oct. 2.

«7

Akmetchet,

Oct. 3.

APPENDIX, No^V.

flcaltofFihnDbdt. Wkcnnudb Vliai nudt. oallMaaud^.

69* Aknietchet. Oct. 4,1800. 66°

68 Akmetchet, Oct. 6. 68

64 Akmetchet, Oct. 6. 63

66 Akmctulict, Oct. 7. 60

68 Akmetcliel, Oct. 8. 02
78 Akmetchet, Oct. 9. 60
76 Steppes near Akmetchet, Oct. 10. 64
76 Chaplinky. Oct. II. 66
78 Chshmka. Oct. 12. 61
09 Cbereon. Oct. 13. 66

69 Kopeuskai, Oct. 14. 65
60 NicboWf, Oct. 16. 66
69 Banks of the Bog, Oct. 16. 68
66 Angelica, Oct. 17. 64
68 OdeBW, Oct. 18. 66

66 Odessa, Oct. 19. 64
68 Odessa, Oct. 20. 66
60 Odessa, Oct. 31. 64
64 Odessa, Oct. 23. 46
62 Odessa, Oct. 28. 50

67 Odessa, Oct. 24. 68
60 Odflwi, Oct. 26. 62

62 Odessa, Oct 28. 56
60 Odessa, Oct. 27. 49
44 Ode«a, Oct 38. 62
46 Odessa, Oct 29. 51

57 Odessa, Oct. 80. 64
48 Black Sea Dear Odessa, Oct 81. 62

60 Black Sea, Lat 44-. 44*. Not. 1. 52
66 Black Sea, Lat 44*'. 23'. Nov. 3. 62

63 Black Sea, l^t. ankoovn, Not. 8. 47

61 Black Sea, Lat unknown, Not. 4. 47

58 Black Bea, I^t. unknown, Nov. 6. 48

5S!0 APPENDIX, Wo V.

ObMiratioiis on the Obtcnradon in Lottdss

ScmleofFahrenbeit. Wlkcn mtde. When made. ob tlie nne D«y.

65- {®J!r''f?*^'^''^'°} Nov. 6.1800. 4»
C Canal of ConstaDtinople, )

C Black Se8y4 Leagues from ) _ ^ ^^

( Caualof CoDstantinopley )

{Black Sea, 8 Leases from ) . _ . .^

^ 1 i-^^^x.. 1 J Nov. 8. 53
Caoal of Constantinople, )

C Black Sea» off Cape Noir, ) «« /^ ^n

\ Lat. 4P. acy. 5 ^"^' ^' "^

Ibid. TAt.42».0'.

Nov. 10.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 11.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 12.

Uarboor of Ineada,

Nov. 18.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 14.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 16.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 16.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 17.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 18.

Harbour of Ineada, •

Nov. 19.

Harbour of Ineada,

Nov. 20.

c Off the Canal of Con-
( stantinople,

I Nov. 21.

Canal of Constantinople,

Nov. 22.

Constantinople,

Nov. 23.

Constantinople,

Nov. 24.

Constantinople,

Nov. 26.

Constantinople,

Nov. 26.

Constantinople,

Nov. 27.

Constantinople,

Nov. 28.

Constantinople,

Nov. 29.

Constantinople,

Nov. 30.

Constantinople,

Dec. 1.

Constantinople,

Dec. 2.

Constantinople,

Dec. 3.

APPENDIX,

Nov.

321

ScdtofFihrcnkcil.

Whtnnude.

VlndDude.

on tile ume Dwj.

Constontinople,

Dec. 4,

1800. 38.

ConsUntinopIe,

Dee. 5.

C,.n.,a„linopk,

Dee. 6,

CoDsUDtiiiopIe,

Deo. 7.

£9

Constantinople,

Dec. 8.

Constantinople,

Deo. 9.

Constantinople,

Dec. 10.

Constantinople,

Dec. 11.

Constantinople,

Dec 12.

Constantinople,

Deo. 13.

Constantinople,

Dec. 14.

Constantinople,

Dee. 15.

Constantinople,

Dee. 16.

CoDstantinople,

Dec. 17.

Constantinople,

Dec. 18.

Dec. 19.

Constantinople,

Dec. 20.

Constantinople,

Doc. 21.

Constantinople,

Dec. 22.

Constantinople,

Dec. 23.

Constantinople,

Dec. 24.

Constantinople,

Dec. 25.

Constantinople,

Dec. 26.

Constantinople,

Den. 27.

Constantinople,

Deo. 28.

Constantinople,

Doc. 89.

Constantinople,

Dec. 30.

Constantinople,

Dec. 31.

522

APFESDlXy Ho VI.

No. VI.

NAMES OF PLACES

VISITED IN THE AUTHOR'S BOU

WITH

THEIR DI8TANCX8 FROM BACH OTHER,

RUMIAK YBR8T8 AKD BKOLISB HILB8.

sttUBm

Eng.
MUes.

r^rUB,

Milct.

From Petenbtu
NoYogorod

■gto

. 180 —

120

Braughi/anoard

. 1115 —

74^

Tver

. 888-

258]

EsYoly •

•

. 22 —

1*1

Moscow.

. 182-

108

ZadoDCts.

•

. 18 —

Molodtzy

. 27 —

Celo ChlebDoy

•

. 30 —

Celo Molody .

. 26 —

16J

BeztazeYka •

•

. 17 —

Grischinka

. 21 —

Celo Staroy lYOtixiskoy

. 18 —

Serpuchof

. 24 —

Woronetz

•

. 25 —

161

Celo Zavody

. 34 —

22}

Celo Usmany

•

. 15 —

VaszODy .

. 21 —

Podulok MosooYskoy

. 25 —

161

CeloYolotia .

. 22 —

141

Mqjoeks •

. 12 —

Tola

. 13 —

Ekortzy .

. 25 —

161

DedUof .

. 33 —

lestakoYO

. 85 —

Boghoroditz .

. 25 —

16§

LocoYa Sloboda

/15-

Celo Nikitzko;

y . . 25 —

PaoIoYskoy

. 22 —

1*1

Bolshoy Platy

. 27 —

KaziDBkoy Chator

. 21 —

Kffremof .

. 18 —

Nizney Momon

- 22 —

141

NikoIaiJeYka

. 22 —

141

Dobrinka

• 30 —

Celo PetroYsk

ia Palnla . 19 —

12}

Metscha •

. 16 —

lOJ

Eletz .

. 29 —

19i

*Lapok .

. 15 —

10.

CarrUdfi

fnoard . 1115 —

743|

Carried forward

. 1488 —

* Not in the regnlar rontc.

APPENDIX, H« VI.

r*n<L UUn.

BreughtfonMnt . 14Se — 098f

Katukala BUnlUa . Ift— 10

nchaU . . 30~ SO

Terclu)l*(qqMr)Iaion]a S3— 14|

Hliiiia(Ii'Ki«r) tuonOa. 98— I6|

. Sa— 16)

. 91 — U

. 36— 161

. 2S— 16{

. 86— 17i
Dnbonlula .95-16)
Oriveiukaif .86—17^
TcbMUbdothnla,

TcherchMk, by
Ixay, bj ditto
Awf, t7 ditto
l^urog, I17 ditto
ChomburakBla
UargBiitonkaia

tSierubJnoTiko;

Aedokor

Albwki^

ProtelMlaoy

BcTfcaakoj

Bbidlri;

Kiip«Tsii»ka

Sataehlbbft

Fononn .

16— 10
16— 10
46— 30

TjdDia

MMbMtOTiko;

KaraKnbui

CarHtd J^fvard .9490 — 1690

Vmu.

»W0-

690

Eopn .

96 —

161

Kalau .

96 —

BWI

KoDTky .

36-

S3)

as-

93)

Slenu .

se-

93)

Taman .

ss -

la)

Tojage OD the Bm or

86 —

17)

Aiof, and retum.

FuM8etoYenfl»16

IS —

Kertchy.

lo-

«l

ss—

18)

ArghulM

89 —

1*)

Paipony

88-

caw

99 —

EierDftchy

94 —

Bonrnfldak

83-

16)

28-

Uia

91-

Akinetehet

81 —

fiaktcb«Hnl

80 —

Aktiar .

89 —

91)

Honartar; of StQcotge,
■Dd retam .

S4 —

Balaclata

13 —

K^tchttek UoHomta

7 —

Kfttchltckoy

W —

Aloupka.

is-

Tounora

le—

EoarEonlet

7 —

Aluta .

85 —

16)

Yeiilk«ar

is-

Akmetchet

le-

Katcha .

34—

9S|

ShUA .

80 —

IS)

Carrttd/onaard . 3146 — 8008)

APPENDIX, No VI.

Brought forward
Alexiano's Chouter .
Tcborgona
Shtat
KodjaSala
Mankoop
Kara Ilaes
Katcha
Akmetchet
Koelof •
Akmetchet
Meranchilk
Ablania .
Ibaira .
Bunnen •
IthniiB •
Perecop •
Chaplinky
Techordonalin
KoDka •
Biroslaf •
Chahinka

Carried forward

Rum.

Eur

ftratM.

MUct.

.5148 —

S008I

. 86 —

. 28 —

181

. 8 —

6 —

4 —

8 —

. 10 —

. 84 —

22}

. 64 —

42}

. 64 —

42}

. 26 —

17}

. 16 —

10}

. 22 —

i*i

. 24 —

. 19 —

12}

. 26 —

17}

. 26 —

16}

. 25 —

16}

. 30-

. 10 —

. 28 —

18}

3660 —

2440

Eog.
r^nU. MUes.

Brmtght forward . 9060 — 2440

IngoaUtz .19—121

Chenon • , .18 — 12

Kopenskai . .82 — 21{

Nicholaef . .80—20

Hirer Bog . 4 -. 3|

Ferry OTer ditto . .4 — 2}

Aathecra . .25—16}

Sasiaka . .21—14

KalegulBka .28—18}

AngeUca .21—14

Odessa . . .18 — 12

8880 s> 258^

Voyage across the Black
Sea to Gonstantinopley
In a direct line from
Odessa, does not exceed
800 Leagues ; but from
our deTiations, retom
from the Ganal to Ine-. „..

ada, &c it equalled . 500 — 1500

Total of Distance in the Author's Route )
from Petersbuig to Constantinople . >

HUes. . 4086}

END OF PABT THE FIB8T:
Containing Travels in Buetia, Tahtary, and -Turkey.

INDEX

PART THE FIRST.

%* 1^ Roman NumerdU^ i. ii. rrfer to the Vohtmet ; the AraHe Fiffuret

to the Pages in each Volunu.

AdRIANOPLE, Moantaioeen of, mannen of, ii. 417, 418.

Ae, River, notice of, ii. 3.

Agriculture of the Crim Tahtan, ii. 248, 249.

Aia B^trwuj or the Holy Promontory, accoant of, ii. 286—289.

AVvdaghf Promontory of, notice of, ii. 268.

Ahnetchet, unwholesome sitoation of, iL 166.

Aktiar, RuMian name of, ii. 198. the Ctenuf of Straho, ihid. Preaent

state of, 199—202. Adrantaget of its port, 200 note.
Alexander the Oreat, Pillars erected by, in the territory of the Don

CoMMicks, i. 368. Altars erected by hhs, 41 1, 412.
Alexiano^s Chouier, a wretched Tillage in the Crimea, description of, ii. 292.
Aloupka, Village of, described, ii. 248—260.
Altyn Obo, or Tomb of Mithridates, description of, IL 112—114. V|«ir

thence of the Cimmerian Straits, 116.
AfnhroB€f ArchUshop of Moscow, assassinated, i. 100.
Amueemmti of the Russians, i. 96. of the Don Cossacks, 306. of the Gal-
mucks, 319.
Anapa^ Pasha of, mediates peace between the Cossacks of the Black Sea

and the Circassians, iL 24—30. Conyersation of, with the author, 33.
ArdiquUies, found in the territory of the Don Cossacks, L 368, 369. near

Taganrog, 440. Grecian, in the Qmmerian Bosporus, ii. 68, 70, 77. at

Yenikal6, 102, 103. at Kertchy, 117—119. at Stara Crim, 164—166.

of the Minor Heradeotic Peninsula, 210—218, 286* of the Thracian

Bosporus, 438—442.
Apples, benediction of, L 207.
Arches f antiquity of, ii. 71.
Armenian Colony of Nakhtshiyan, i. 397—399. Enterprising character

of the Armenian merchants, 402, 408. Arrangement of their shops, 404.

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST.

Origin of this ettablishmenty 407^ 8apert> dreM of Armeidaii womai at

Astrachan, 405 note.
Armi of Novogorod, i. 38. Mannfketnre of arms at Tula, S38y 280. of the

Calmacks, 318.
Army, Russian, Catechism of, ii. 467—468.
Asander, Vallam of, u. 140^142.
Ateention, Festival of, how celebrated, i. 170.
Atmoiphere, temperature of, during the author's trayds, IL 510 — 619.
Axay, a Cossack capital, public entry of the author into, L 344. his

hospitable reception there, 346, 346. etymology of the word, 448, 448.
Azoff fortress of, described, i. 413, 414. The probable site of the ancient

city of Tanais, 416, 416. condition of the Garrison, 417, 418. The

author's departure thence, 421 . Remarkable pluenomenon in the Sea of

Azof, 423. notice of riyers ftlUng into it, 484.

Baidar, Valley, description of, ii. 242—244.

Bakichemrtth the Tahtar capital of the Crimea, novel ^ipedranoe of, fl.

170. fountains, ibid, 171. DoTOtion of the Tahtars, 171. Deatractba

caused by the Russian troops, 172. Description of the Palace of the

Khan, 180—182. preparations made there for recdving tiie Empre«

Catherine, 182. Description of the Charem, 183, 184. brief aceoaat of,

by Mr. Heber, 104, 105 note.
Balaclava, antient ruins at, ii. 218, 210. present state of the town and

port of, 220—222. Genoese fortress there, 222, 223. Froit shops, 229.

Manners of the inhabitants, 230.
Bo/^, Russian, description of :— Ball of the peasants, L 76—80. of the

nobles, 81—85.
Baltic and Euxine Seas, account of water communication between, L 486

et seq.
Banquets of the Russian Nobles, L 200, 210.
Basaltic Pillars, in the harbour of Ineada, account of, ii. 418, 419. theory

oftheilr origin, 420.
Baths, Public, at Moscow, described, L 184, 186. Process of bathing,

186—188. National importance of public baths, 188—190. Ruins of

ancient baths at Stara Crim, ii. 164 — 156.
Bell, the Oreat one of Moscow, described, i. 140, 160, 447. sapentitioas

visits to it, 161. its measurement, 162, 163, and note.
Beloozero, Lake, notice of, L 606. rivers fiOling hito it, 606, 606.
Benediction of apples, L 207. of bread, 367, 368.
Beresanskoy, Gulph of, i. 478.
Beresenskoyt Canal, notice of, i. 486.

INDBX TO PART THE FIRST.

t, RWer, notice of, i. 470.
Biberitein, Marshal, Botanical researches of, iL SOS, 909.
BiUinffMf Commodore, anecdote of his expedition, L 30. his unhandsome

treatment of the author, 201, S02, 808.
Birohe, an animal peculiar to the Steppes, description of, i. 339.
Biroslqf, Village, account of, U. 331, 333. Plants collected in its vicinity,

333 note.
Black Sea, canal of communication between, and the Caspian Sea, i. 431.

report on the navigation of, 464 et seq. erroneous account of, by Toume-

fort, ii. 387. Dangers of that sea, 388, 389. English Commerce in that

sea, 390, 409—487. Journal of the author's voyage down that sea to the

harbour of Ineada, 393—409, 488—603.
Boaii of the Don Cossacks, structure of, i. 369.
Bobae of the Steppes, account of, i. 335, 336—338.
Boff, River, account of, i. 475. notice of riven fidling Into it, ibid. 476,

477, 631—533.
Boghy Russian, adoration of, L 31.
Bogharoditz, town of, notice of, L 348, 849.
BooUeUer^ Shap§,ttt2ioaeow9 i. 90, 91.
Soranfziky, cataracts of, i. 494.

Botparu*. See Cimmerian Botpanu, and Tkraeian Bceparue*
Botanic Gardm of Peter the Great, L 865.
Botterline, Count, library of, i. 178. his botanic garden described, 179,

180. philosophieal instroments, 180.
Brandy, how prepared from the milk of mares, i. 314.
Bulderoy River, notice of, L 525, 626.

Cqffii, arrival of the author at, ii. 143. present state of, 130—132 note, 144.
barbarous conduct of the Russians there, 131 note, 144, 145—147. In-
scriptions, 147—149. Distribution of the town, 160. Antient ediflee
converted into a church, 151, 153. Departure from Caffa, 163.
\) Calmuek Camp, description of, i. 310—313, 340. Koumiss and brandy
prepared by the Calmucks from mares'-milk, 313 — 314. Description
of their tents, 315. Their personal appearance and character, 316. Por-
trait of their women, 317. Curious mode of dressing steaks of horse-flesh,
ibid. Arts, armour, and weapons, 318. Recreations and conditions of
life, 319, 330. Diseases preralent among them, 331 . Settlements of the
Calmucks near Taganrog, 433. their marriage ceremony, ibid. 434.
Consecrated ensigns of the Calmuck Law, 434, 436. Difference between
their Tolgar and sacred writings, 436. Thehr nombers, 487.

IlfDBX TO PABT THE FIRST.

Odessa, 951—^1. Tojage to In^ada, S8S— -421. and thence to Con-
stantinople, 432—460. list of plants collected hj, In the Crimea^
504—512. itinerary of places yisited by him, and their distances,
522—524.
Climate of the Crimea, danger of, ii. 296. extraordinary temperature of

climate in the Black Sea, 300.
Cemetery, beaatifbl, of the Jews at Dschonfimttod^, ii. 188, 189.
Comt of Vladimir the Great, ii. 290. See Medaie.

Commerce of Woronetz, account of, i. 200 — 271. €it TcheAMA, 380.

of the Circassians with the Tchemomorskl, ii. 48, 59. State of English

eonmierce in the Black Sea, 300, 469— 487. State of Turkish oommerce,

447—450.

Comoearya, Queen of the Bosporus, ancient monument erected by, iL

78, 79.
ComtaiUiftopIe, account of the land-passage to, ill 379 — 881. entrance to
the canal of, 426. magnificent scenery on its banks, 427— 429. approach
to, 443, 444. disgusting appearance of the streets, 445. state of Turkish
commerce there, 447—450.
Convent of the New Jerusalem, described, i. 128*126. of the Trinity, at

Moscow, 128. of Micdl na Perrera, 194, 200.
Couaeke, honesty of, i. 278. Cossack stragglers from the army, 383. Dis-
tinctiou between Cossacks of the Steppes and Vf the Don, 384. superiority
of their character over the Russians, ii. 9, and note.
Cosiocks of the Black Sea, or TehemomcrM, origin of, ii. 5 note, cause of
their migration to Kuban Tahtary, 4. serrioes rendered by them to
Russia, 5, 6. distinguished from the Don Cossacks, 7, 8. appearanee
of stragglers from the army, 15. Size and beauty of the Cossack cattfe,
ibid. Account of their capital, Bkaterinadera, 18, 19. their mannefs,
20. dress and external appearance, ibid. Visit from their Ataman to
Dr. Clarke, 21. Causes and success of their war with the Circassians,
22 — ^24. preparations for making peace, 26, 27. ceremony of concluding
it, 28—30. their commerce with the Circassians, 48, 52. theirreTenge-
iiil spirit, 54 note.
Coieacka, Don. See Don Cottacke*

Coetume of the Russian peasants, L 41, 44. of the Ruarians generaDy, 95.
Courierf intrepid conduct of, ii. 328, 829.
Courland, Rivers of, i. 585, 526.

Crimea, rarages committed hi, by the Russians, iL 124, 125. antient
topography of, why iuToWed in obscurity, 127, 129. swarms of
locusts there, 133 — 135. venomous insects, 136. Gipaies fbund
there, 137. Manners, dress, &c. of the Tahtar GeBtlemeD, 199, 140.

INDBX TO PART THB FIRST.

Account of Cafik, 130—132, no. 144—153. Antiquities of Stara Crim,
154 — 156. account of its principal towns — Karasubazary 159. Akmet-
chet, 160—165. Baktchesarai, 160, 180—183. Causes which led to the
deposition and death of the Khan, 173— 178. —Consequences of the
capture of the Crimea, 179, 180. Fortress of Dschoufoutkal^, 185.
Account of Aktiar, 199—203. of Balaclava, 218—222. Genoese fortress,
222. Geology of the Crimea, 223—228. Excursion along the south
coast of the Crimea, 231. Valley of Baidar, 232. Domestic manners
and habits of the JCrim Tahtars, 236. PlanU and minerals, 242. CriO-
Metopon, 246. Alonpka, 248. Other Tillages on the coast, 251. Promon-
tory of Ai'vdagh, 258. Parthcnit, 250. Tchetirdagh, 260. Military force
of the Crimea, 268. General survey of the Crimea, 321. Country north
of the isthmus, ibid.

Crippiy Mr. the friend and travelling companion of Dr. Clarke, adventure
of, i. 325. hb sufferings from the attacks of mosquitoes, ii. 60, 61.

CriA'-Metopon, antient promontory of, described, ii. 246. beautiful views
thence, 247.

Ctemu, site of, ascertained, ii. 198, 199.

Cucumbers of extraordinary size, account of, iL 160.

Cytawan Islands, present appearance of, ii. 431. description of a votive
altar on one, 433 — 435. singular breccia found there, 436.

Danaetz, River, notice o*", i 484.

Donees of the Russian Gipsies, i. 79, 80. of the Don Cossacks, 306. of the

Circassians, ii. &t. ^f
Danube, Blouths of, appearance of, ii. 401.

Doruif, probable situation of, when he surveyed the Euxine, iL 439.
JDosAJb/, (Princess) mean conduct of, i. 431, 432.
Deeoraiians (barbarous) of the palace of Tsarsko-selo, i. 22—24.
DedUoff Town of, described, i. 246, 247.
Demetry Rastqf, (St.) Fortress of, i. 408, 400.
Desna, RiTcr, account of, i. 472.
Dinner, barbarous etiquette of, in Russia, i. 211, 212. Curious anecdote of

two English gentlemen at a Russian dinner, 213.
Diseases, prevalent among the Don Cossacks, i. 301.
Dnieper, River, account of the navigation of,i. 464— 469.— cataracts of,

465, 466, 488. account of the streams that fall into it, 469—477.
Dniester, River, account of the navigation of, i. 480—482. notice of rivers

fiOlingintoit 482,483. Cataract of Tampolskin, 489.
DoMnia, Village of, described, i. 294.
Dan, River, voyage down, i. 304. fishes caught therein, 305, 360. view

VOL. II. 2 M

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST.

of the river f 348. Analogy between the Don and the KOe, 365, 35<l, 423.
Length and course of the Don, 356, 357. Voyage down the Don to Axof
and Taganrog, 394 — 425. Division of the Don, 411. project for oniting
it with the Volga, 402, 463. account of its navigation, 484. rirers fidling
hito it, ibid. 485.
Don Couaekt, Origin of, i. 368 — 374. causes of their Increase, 374 — 877.
population of theij^-territory, 347, 382, 383, notes, appearance of, at
Kasankaia, L 298. house of the Ataman described, 299, 300. ideal dan-
gers of travelling in their country, 301 — 303. am&sements and dances
of the people, 304j 305. difference between the Don Cossacks, and
the Cossacks of the Steppes, 334. public entry of the author into their
capital, Azay, 344. their hospitable reception of him, iUd. 345—347.
celebration of a court festival, 350—352. mode of ftsting, 353. state of
education among them, 355 note. Natural curiosities and antiquities in die
Cossack territory, 357 — 350. extraordinary appearance of Teherkask,
their capital city, 361. its situation, 388 note, public buildings and regalia,
363 — 368. foundation of it, 377, 378. commerce, 380. government of
their armies, 381, 382, notes. Dress of the Don Cossacks, 383, 384. their
polished manners, 385. striking difference between them and the Russians,
386, 387, 419, 420. diseases prevalent among them, 391, 392. distinc-
tion between them and the Cossacks of the Black Sea, ii. 7.

I>reia of the Russian peasants, i. 41, 44. of the Russian nobles, caprice in,
83, 84. of the Don Cossacks, 383, 384. of the Cossacks of the Black Sea,
ii. 20, 21. of the Tahtars of the Crimea, 140.

Droiky, a Russian carriage, described, i. 13 note.

Drowned persons, neglect of, in Russia, i. 274-^276.

DscfunifoutkaU, fortress of, described, ii. 185. Extraordinary ring in its
vicinity, 187. singular excavation there, 188. Jewish ccemetery there,
ibid. 189. Account of the colony of Jews there, 190 — 194.

Dtrina, River, notice of, i. 514. streams fiadling into it, ibid. 515.

Dvina, the Southern, account of, i. 520, 521. rivers Mling into it,
521—525.

faster, ceremonies observed at, in Russia, i. 66. Palm Sunday, 67. Maundy
Thursday, 69. Ceremony of the Resurrection, 70—75. Excesses of the
populace, 75, 76. Presentation of the Paschal Eggs, 76. Fashionable
promenades during Easter, 143—146.

Siffremof, Village, notice of, i. 251, 252.

Skaterinadera, the capital of the Tchemomorski Cossacks, account of, ii
18, 19.

JSletz, Town of, account of, i. 253, 254, 255.

INDBX TO PART THB FIRST.

jhigUihf oplniom entertained of, in Rmsia, L 119. Extraordinary anecdote
of an English serrant, ii. 186. Account of Bngliih Commeroe in the
Black Sea, 460-487.

Bqit^lfagei of Moscow, described, i. 94.

JBttcmOf notice of rivers on the coast of, 1. 61 8.

Supat&riumj antient rains of, ii. 210.

BuxineSMf project for nniting with the Black Sea, L 486, et seq.

BxeeuM of the Russian populace at Easter, i. 75, 76.

Fatting, Cossack mode of, L 353.

Fine Arts, why not likely to flourish in Russia, L 90.

Finkmdf horrible excesses of the Russians in, 886 note, 440, 450. notice

of riyers on the coast of, 617.
FUh, caught in the River Don, account of, i. 306, 306.
FayndUng JlotpUal of Moscow, account of, i. 190—193.
FuXla^ Earth, pits of, hi the Crimea, ii. 882. account of its manuAictuie,

289,884.
Ftmend of Prince Qalitiin, account of, i. 801—206. A shiguUur funeral

ceremony descrilwd, 260, 261.

OakUOp appearance of, ii. 446.

OaHtzin, M. gallery of, described, L 177.

GaUtzin, Prince, beautiful mineral specimens of, described, i. 181, 188.
account of his funeral, 201—206.

Gams$f Antient, preserved hi Rnssk^ 1. 233, 284.

Garden* of Tsarsko-sdo, described, i. 19, 22.

Oenoeee Fortreu at Baraclava, account of. ii. 222, 223.

Oenoeee Language, yestiges of, in the Crimea, iL 264. 256.

Oeologif ijit the Crimea, obseryatlons on, ii. 223. Account of some extraor-
dinary geologicaTphsBnomena, 224 — 228. Composition of the rocks and
stmta near KAtchdckoy, 243 — 246. Geological phenomena on theCyanean
Islands, 432.

Oipsisf, numners and costume of, in Russia, i. 77 — 80. of the Crimea*
187,188.

Oalavkin, Count, noble behayiour of his peasants, i. 120. Account of his
collection of minerals, 172 — 174. his museum, 174. pictures, 176. anti-
quities, 176—177.

Chreeik Church, superstitions of, i. 28—31. funeral ceremony of, 801—806,
850, 851. marriage ceremony of, ii. 866.

Chreeik Impoetor, anecdote of one, i. 392, 893.

Greek Language, how pronounced in modem times, ii. 100.

2 M 2

INDBX TO PABT THE FIRST.

OreA Towfij form of an antient one described, iL 828, 929.

OreekMj Modern, of Uie Crimea, character o^ii. 101. contiaat between tbem

and the Russians, 383—385.
Gtm, the Great one of Moecow, described, L 153, 164.

Hdghtt of Valday, L 41 .

Heradeotie CkertoneiHi, topography of, why difficult to be aeeertained,
ii. 206, 207. Cippns of Theagenes, 207. Antient geography and anti-
quities of the Minor Peninsula, 210, 451. Ruins of Enpatorinm, 810.
and of the antient city of Cbersonesus, 811, 818. Inscriptions found
there, 213, 214. Promontory of Parthenium, 815. Monastery of St.
Geoi|^, ibid. 210. Ruins at Balaclava, 218, 219. description of the Port
and Town, 220—222. Genoese fortress, 222. Second excursion to the
Minor Penlnsuhi of the HeradeotsB, 273. Citadel of Mankoop, 876—878.
Cape of the Winds, 279. VUlageof Shma,281. Fullers' Earth pits, 28a
Isthmian Wall, 285. Aia BdrOn, or the Holy Promontoryy 886—880.
Alexiano's Chouter, 291. Point and Bay of Phanari, 898. Ruins of the
oldCherBone8usofStrabo,293. Valley of Tchorgona, 294— 300. Koslo^
305. Perecop, 31 1 —319.

HUroUy site of the antient town of, ascertained, U. 439.

Hornpipe of England, probably of gipsy origin, L 78.

Horse-^lealeri, English, at Moecow, L 183.

Hotel f Russian, described, i. 61.

Houses, removed entire, 390.

Howard, Mr., particulars of the death of, iL 339 — 345. (»der of his funeral,
346. his tomb, 347, 348.

Ilmen, Lake, proposed improTements in the nayigation of, i. 494, 495.

JmUation, talent of, among the Russians, i. 86, 87. instanced in a remaik-
able fraud, 89.

Jneada, Harbour of, its situation and present state, ii. 409-^11* chart of
that port, 422. * plants found in its ricinity, 41 1—414, and notes, appear-
ance of the Turks there, 415. antient ruins there, 416. account of
mountaineers frequenting that port, 417, 418. basaltic pillars there,
419—421. Voyage from Ineada to Constantinople, 423 — 450.

Ingermanland, notice of rivers on the coast of, L 517, 518.

Jnffulf River, account of, L 475, 476.

Jnguletz, River, notice of, i. 475.

Inkerman, Caverns of, ii. 202—204. mephitic air of, 805, 806, and note.

Inland Navigation of Russia, report on, 453— 455. See Bladt Sea, CamU,
Rivers.

INDBX TO PART THE FIRST.

In$criptwnti Antient| in the Cimmerian Bosponis^ ii. 90—06. at Kertchy,
117—119. at Cafib, 137—139. in the Heracleotic Chenonesas,213, 314.
belonging to the antient town of OlbiopoUs, 353^ 362.

Inuct$, yenomous, found in the Crimea, ii. 13.

Irm Founderiei of Lagan, i. 336, 337.

Iron Mines of Tula, i. 243. of Udghio, 255.

Isthmian Wall, Rains of, in the Heracleotic Minor Peninsula, ii. 285, 286.

Iwm Bctsilamteh I. character of, i. 132.

Ivan BasilovUch II. character of, i. 133, 134.

Jedrova, Town of, described, i. 43.

Jerboa, account of the, ii. 166, 811. Observations of Bochart on this
animal, 167. Haym's account of it, 168.

Jews, Marriage ceremony of, ii. 267.

Jews, Karaite, Coemetery of, at Dschoufoutkal6, if. 188, 189. The author's
hospitable reception by a Jew, 190. Their dwellings and numner of
livhig, 191^ 192. Account of the sect of Karu, 193, 194.

Jupiter Urius, Temple of, ii. 438.

Kamenskaia, a Cossack town, described, i. 335.

Karaite sect of Jews, account of, ii. 188 — 194.

Karasubazar, a town of the Crimea, origin of its name, iL 168 note.

remarlcable mountain in its yicinity, ibid« account of the town, 159,

160.
Kasanhda, appearance of the Cossacks at, i. 297. description of the town,

305—307.
Katherinskoy Northern Canal, account of, i. 461.
K^'Ml, or mineral froth, where obtained, iL 282. its conitituent parts,

883 note, aecount of its manufiu:ture, 283, 284.
Kertehy, Town of, its wretched appearance, iL 109, 118 nota. antient

ruins there, 110 — 114. antiquities, 117—119. account of a stranger

who died there, 121. fortress, 122. antient church, 123. havoc made

by the Russians, 124. sepulchral barrows in its yicinity, 129 note. The

author's departure from Kertehy, 129, 130.
Mirgissian Ambassadors at Moscow, i. 61. brief account of that nation,

447. resemblance between them and the Scottish Highlanders, 448.
^in, Notice of, L 51.
JKanyalnUzJde, Bay, noUce of, 1. 479.
Koslqf, Town and Port of, described, ii. 305, 306. Knavery of a Turkish

Captain, 304.

INDEX' TO PART THE FIR8T.

JToiMiitt, how prepared by the Cahnneks, i. 813 — 814.

Krmnlinf DescriptUm of the, i. 1 48. holy gate, ibid, and note, great bell,
149—163. great gan, 1 S9, 154. Description of the antlent palace of the
Tsars, 156, 156. Description of the imperial treasory, and ita contentSy
157 — 164. manascripts, 154. superb model of the KremHn, 165^107.
its general appearancei 167, 168.

KrUopka^ Biver, notice of, i. 474.

Kuban Tahtary, wretched relays of horses in, iL 8. Indnslry of the
Malo-Rossians, 8. Cause of the migration thither of the TehemoiDonki
CkMsacks, 4, 6. Wild fowl, 11. Singular species of mole diseovered,
ibid. Wretched post-houses, 12. Plants found in this country, 18. Rata
of trayelling, 14. Antient tumuli, ibid. View of the Ctacaslan Moun-
tains, 16, 17. Produce of the soil between Ekaterinedara and Vydnia,
56. Dlyision of the Riyer Kuban, 57. Unwholesome titoation of Kqpfl,
58. Mosquitoes, 50.

K^eMehoy^ a Tahtar village, described, iL 343. Qeologieal phsraomeBa
in its vicinity, 348—845.

Ladoga, Canal of, present state of, i. 496. Aeeonnt of riven lUUng into

the Lake of Ladoga, 497.
Lambat, Yillage, notice of, ii. 359, 860 note.
Languagetf Russian and Sclavonic, distinction between, L 190, 448. of the

Circassians, ii. 48. The Modem Qreek, how pronounced, 100. VestigeB

of the Genoese language in the Crimea, 254, 355, and note.
Lent, rigorous observance of, in Russia, L 66,69.
Zesgij a Circassian tribe, account of, ii. 44.
Leuce, Island of, present state of, ii. ^^4. account of it by antient writen,

395—899.
Libraries of the Russian Nobles, i. 98, 94. of Count Bottertine, 178,

179.
Limestone of Odessa, observations on, iL 867 — 369.
Literature, state of, in Russia, i. 91, 93. Libraries of the Nobles, 08.
JAoonia, notice of rivers on the coast of, i. 518.
Loeova Sloboda, town of, described, i. 284—286.
Locusts of the Crimea, observations on, ii. 183 — 185. ravages committed

by them in various parts of Europe, 135 note.
Log Book of the Moderato, extract firom, ii. 488—503.
Lugan, iron foundries of, i. 336, 337.

Mahmoud Sultan, a Turkish village, account of, ii. 264, 365.

INDBX TO PART THB FIRST.

MaUhRuirianii, character of, i. 278, 279. Distinction between them and
the Russians, 292. their industry, ii. 3.

Maltese Cross, order of, i. 171, 172.

Manhoop, Citadel of, sketch of its history, ii. 276. description of its ruins,
277—279.

Manners of the Russian peasants, i. 44—36. of the nobility, 115—118.
Tuberrile's portrait of them, 136, 136, 138, 139. Change of manners in
approaching the southern part of the Russian Empire, 274, 275. of the
Circassians, 379. of the Don Cossacks, 381— 887. of the Cossacks of
the Black Sea, ii. 20. of the Tahtars of the Crimea, 139, 236—840.
of the Nagay Tahtars, 812, 313, notes.

Matnrfaetures at Tula, i. 237.

Manuscripts in the Kremlin, account of, i. 164, 165.

Mares* Milk, Koumiss and brandy how prepared from, i. 312—314.

Margaritotfskaia, account of the Greek Colony of, i. 446.

Marine Animals, deposits of, i. 255.

Marriage Ceremony of the Calmucks, i. 433, 434. of the Greek Church,
ii. 266. of the Jews, 267.

Maundy Thursday, how celebrated in Russia, i. 69, 70.

Medals of the Bosporus, account of, ii. 105—107. of the town of Pantica-
pseum, 110. of Olbiopolis, 363, 364.

Medicine, state of, in Russia, i. 114.

Merchant, Russian, artifice of, i. 99.

Merdveen, passage of, described, ii. 241.

Milanese Vagrants, character of, i. 49.

Milesian gold bracelet, discovered in the Cimmerian Bosporus, ii. 72.

MUitary Farce of the Crimea, ii. 268—270.

Minerals of Count GoloTkin, i. 172, 173.

MUhridaies, Pharos of, ii. 104. medals of, 105, 107, and note, tomb of,
111.

Model of the Kremlin, described, i. 165—167.

Mole, a singular species of, discoyered, ii. 11.

Monastery, Greek, in the Heracleotic Peninsula, iL 215, 216. Vestiges of
one at Derykeiiy, 255.

Morals, public, state of, i. 209.

Moscow, rotai from Petersburg to, i. 40. the author's arrival there, 52.
wretched accommodation for trayellers, 56. peculiarities of climate, 58.
Impressions made on first arriving in Moscow, 59 — 61. Russian Hotel,
61. account of the celebration of Easter in that city, 66 — 76. Book-
sellers' shops, 90. State of literature, 91, 92. Libraries of the Nobles,
93. equipages, 94. costume, 95. amusements, 96. Chapel of the

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST.

Tversehaia, 97. Artifice of a merehaDt, 99. Oeneroiis eonduct of m
citizen of, 109. Prince turned pawnbroker, 110. Pietnre-dealerB, 111,
112. Traffic in the Fine Arts, 112, lid. State of medicine, 114.
Public Censors, 127. Convent of the Trinity, 128. Church of St.
Basil, 129. Plan of Moscow, 140. its size and population, 145 note.
Sunday market, 140—143. Promenades during Easter, 143—147.
The Kremlin. 148. Holy Gate, ibid. Graat bell of Moscow, 149—163.
Great gun, 163. Antient Palace of the Tsars, 165. horrible massacrea
there, 156. Imperial Treasury, account of the, and its contents.
157—164. Manuscripts, 164. Fac-simile of Peter the Great's hand,
writing, 165. Superb model of the Kremlin, 165 — 167. its general
appearance, 167, 168. Panoramic Tiew of Moscow, 169. Festind of
the Ascension, 170. Museums in Moscow — Count GoloTkln's described,
172—177. Gallery of Galitzin, 177. Count Botterline*s, 178—180.
Other collections, 181, 182. English horse-dealers at Moscow, 183.
Public Baths, 184—190. Foundling Hospital, 199—192. Stalls for
fruit and food, 206, 207. Public morals, 209. Dealers in Virttli, 215.
Adventurers and swindlers, 217.

Mo9C$ha, River, notice of, i. 492.

Masha, River, notice of, i. 513.

Mo$quitoe8f ravages of, on the banks of the Kuban, ii. 59 — 61.

Mita, River, notice of, and of the streams foiling into it, i. 494.

Mueharitza, River, notice of, i. 531-^583.

Mud, volcano of, ii. 89.

MuHcal Instruments of the Russians, i. 80. of the Circassians, iL 40.

Nagay, or Nogay Tahtars, difference between, and the Tahtars of the

Crimeff, ii. 318, 319. account of their manners and customs, 312, 313,

notes.
Ndktskwan, an Armenian Colony, account of, i. 397 — 399. enterprising

character of its merchants, 402, 403. arrangement of their ships, 404.

description of a Turkish coffee-house there, 405, 406. origin of this

establishment, 407.
Naumachia, antient, ruins of, ii. 86.
Navigation, inland, of the Russian Empire, i. 47. report on, 453—

533.
Neapolitans and Russians, resemblance between, i. 102.
Neva, River, tributary streams of, i. 515, 516.
Nevegia, River, notice of, i. 529.

New Jerusalem, Convent of the, descrilied, i. 123 — 126.
Nickolatf, town and port of, described, ii. 340, 350.

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST.

Nieolqjevka, notice of, I. 859.

NieoU na Perrera, Convent of, described, 194, 200.

Niemefij River, project for uniting, with the Dvina, L 487. account of its
navigation, 636—628. riven foiling into it, 628.

iVUt/zioy, Town of, described, L 249, 260. singular fnneral ceremony
there, 261.

JVi2e, analogy between the, and the Don, i. 366, 866, 428.

NobUtf Russian, servile state of, L 46. affect to despise their national
music, 81. description of the Ball of the Nobles, 81 — 88. caprice in
dress, 88, 84. their libraries, 93. equipages, 94. condition of their
wives, 108. Degraded moral condition of the Nobles, 104. opinion
entertained by them of the English, 119. Servants of the Nobility, how
pafd and kept, 121. Theft a common practice of the Nobles, 128, 128.
anecdotes of their beastiy manners, 180, 181 note, their immense wealth,
217. anecdotes of their meanness, 481, 482.

Nobles, Tahtar, of the Crimea, polished manners of, ii. 298.

Noffo^ Tahtan. See Tahtars Nagay.

Novofforod, arrival of the author at, L 26. description of the Cathedral,
28. vignettes of the arms of, 16, 32. explanation of them, 38*
Antient history of Novogorod, 82 — 84. Account of the Novogorodsky
canal, 464.

Odesta, limestone of, observations on, ii. 867 — 860. Conduct of the Em-
peror Paul, respecting this place, 872 — 874. present state of, 876—878.
account of the passage thence, by land, to Constantinople, 879 — 881.
importance of tins port, 889. account of its fortress, 891. its latitude
corrected, 400.

Oghukyf Canal, account of, L 487.

Oka, River, notice of, L 288, 491.

OUfiopoUB, Remafais of, H. 861 , 368. Inscriptions there, 868—008. medals,
863, 364.

Olga, baptism of, i. 86.

Onega, Lake, account of rivers foiling into, L 607, 608. project for uniting
It with the White Sea, 600, 610.

Oneg€i, River, account of, i. 618. rivers iklling into it, 613, 614.

Orazm, a Persian Ambassador to Moscow, anecdotes of, i. 61, 68.

Orlof, the assassin of Peter III. compelled to attend his public foneral,
L106.

OrUif, General in Chief to the Cossack army, account of the author's visit
to, L 89o, 306.

Orthography, Russian, observations on, L preface, vi. — ix.

INDEX TO PART THB FIB8T.

Oiiris, imitation of fhe ceremony of finding, i. 76 note.

(hUlOy River, account of, i. 623, 6S4.

OuihttkOy River, notice of, i. 626.

Ovid, the place of exile of, a8oertained« iL 388 note.

Paintings, Antient Greek, account of, L 26, 447. manner of imitating

them, in Rossia, 27.
Pakuse of Tsarsko-selo, described, i . 19, 22—24. of Petrofrky, 62. Antient

palace of the Tsars, at Moscow, 156, 166. of the Khan of the Crimea,

at Baktchesarai, ti. 180—184.
-^ PaUat, Professor, portrait of, ii. 143. anecdote of, 146, 146 note, his

hospitable reception of the author, 160 — 164. marriage of his dan^^ter,

266. accompanies the author in one of his excursions, 274.
Pdbn Sunday, how celebrated in Russia, L 67, 68.
PanHea/Mnim, antient city of, diseoTered, ii. 100. medal of, 110. Tomb

of Mithridates there, 111—114. View of the Cimmerian Straits thence,

116.
Parthemum, Promontory of, ascertained, ii. 216, 286, 287. ruins at,

269.
Poichal Egg$, presentation of, i. 76.
Paul I. Silhouette of, L 1. state of public afi!kirs during his reign, 4.

anecdotes of his strange conduct, 4—11, 127, 128. of his retributive

spirit, 106, 106. subverts every thing that had been done by his

mother, the Empress Catherine, 239, 240; ii. 373. His usurious

practices, 376.
Paulovshfy, Town of, its appearance described, i. 286. when founded,

287. animals found in its vicinity, 288. trade, 289. Rash conduct of

a young peasant there, 290.
Peatantry of Russia, dress of, i. 41, 44. servile state of, 46, 47. their

oppressed state, 63, 64, 224. Description of the Ball of the peasants,

76—81. anecdotes of their talent of imitation, 87, 89. clothing of, 208.

general account of their condition, 217 — 226.
Pera, a suburb of Constantinople, appearance of, ii. 446, 447.
Pereeop, Fortress of, its present state, ii. 311 — 314, 464, 466. Account of

the salt harvest there, 316, 316. caravans of salt, 317.

Perry, Captahi, ill treatment of, by Peter I. i. 431, 432.

Peter the Greai, fac-simile of his writing, i. 166. botanic garden, formed

by him at Woronetz, 266. His shuffling treatment of Captain Perry,

431,432.
Petersburg, St. project for a water-communication between, and Archangel,

i. 468.

INDEX TO PABT THB FIB8T.

Petrcflky, Palace of, L 62.

Pkttnamenot extraordinary, described, i. 11, IS, 447. on the Cyaoeao
Islet, ti. 432.

Phanagoria, rains of, described, ii. 68—76, 82. antient coin o^ 83. am-
phitheatre, 86. other rains, 84, 87—80. Inscriptions, 90—06.

Phanariy Point and Bay of, ii. 202, 203.

Pieol, Hirer, notice o^ i. 173. ^

Pieturei, why worshipped in Bassia, i. 101. Instances of |»ctare-worriiip,
31, 07, 08, 100. Pictore-dealers at Moscow, 111.

Pigeons, marlcet for, at Moscow, L 141.

Pioma, Hiver, notice of, L 604.

Plaeeg visited in the author's route, with their distances, ii. 620 et seq.

PlanU of the Sooth of the Crimea, observations on, ii. 242, 243. catalogne
cf them, 604—^12.

PUUo, Archbishop of Moscow, yignette of, i. 68. his dress on Baster
Sonday, 74. Account of the author's visit to liun, 103—200.

PHny, geography of, reconciled with that of Strabo, iL 68.

Poderomoy, privilege of, i. 43.

PoUee, Bossian, insolence of, L 7 — 0.

Population of the Don-Cossack territory, L 347, 382, 383 notes.

Porte, Memorial to the, ii. 474—482. reply of, 486, 487,

Portu$ Symbolorum, antient site of, ascertained, iL 218, 210.

Poitmoiter, insolence and extortion of one, i. 231.

Potemkin, Prince, anecdotes of his viOainoos conduct, ii. 174—178. poeti-
cal portrait of, 200. death and burial of, 336, 337. recent disposal of
his body, 338.

Priettnum, Admiral, attentions of, to Mr. Howard, iL 343, 344. his excel-
lent character, 366.

Prinee, a Bossian, turned pawnbroker, L 110.

Pripit, Biver, notice of, 471. Account of smaller rivers foiling into it, ibid.
472

Qutui, a Bossian beverage, how prepared, L 4&

Bona wariabUis, account of, ii. 320.

Resurrection, ceremony of, at Easter, L 70 — 76.

Rivers of Bussia, Beport on, L 464 et seq. The Dnieper, 464. account of
rivers falling into it, 460, 472—476. Beresina, 470. Sosha,47l. Pripit,
ibid, smaller rivers &lling into the Pripit, ibid. 472. Bivers fidling into
the Bog, 475—477. The Dniester, 480—482. rivers fidling into it,
482, 483. The Don, and its tributary streams, 484. The Choper, and

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST.

its tributary Btreams, 486. Rivera felling into the Volga, 490—484. The
Shekflna, 502. riven ftOling into it, 603^605. The Vitegra, and riven
falling into it, 506. Riven falling into the Lake Onega, 507—510. into
the White Sea, 510—512. The Dvina river, and Btreams falling into it,
514, 515. and into the Neva, 516. Riven on the coast of Finland, ibid,
on the coast of Ingermanland, 517, 518. and on the coast of Estonia and
Livonia, 518—521. Riven fiilling into the Soathem Dvina, 521—525.
Riven in Ckmrland, 525, 626. Navigation of the River Niemen, 526—528.
riven faUing into it, 528.

RobbcTf anecdote of a desperate one, ii. 826, 927.

Rubruquis, the traveller, veracity of, confirmed, i. 400, 401.

Buttia, State of public a£fkin in, during the Emperor Paul's reign, i. 4. In-
solence of the police, 7 — 9. Adorations paid by the Russians to their
Bogh, or Ood, 31. Pint churches in Russia, 34, 35. Christianity, when
embraced by the Russians, 37. their superstitious crossing, 89. Dress
of the peasants, 44. their domestic mannen. Ibid. 45, 46. Servile state
of the empire, 46, 47. Russian mode of celebrating Easter, 65—76.
Talent of imitation possessed by the Russians, 86 — 88. instanced in a
remarkable fraud, 89. Fine arts, why not likely to flourish, 90. Super-
stitious practices of the Russians, 99 — 101. Resemblance between the
Russians and Neapolitans, 102. State of medicine In Rusda, 114. Man-
nen of the people, 115. of the nobility, 116, 118, 13d, 139. Opinions
entertained by the Russians of the English, 119. Relative condition of
slaves and their lords, ibid. 120. Russian character the same for many
centuries, 130. Description of a Russian funeral, 201—204. and of a
Russian christening, 205, 206 note. Atrocities committed by the Russians
in Finland, 386 note, 449, 450. Striking contrast between them and the
Don Cossacks, 387, 419, 430. General yiew of the South of Russia,
899—401. Report on the river-navigation of Russia, 464 et seq. Havoc
made by the Russians in the Crimea, generally, ii. 124 — 179. particularly
at Caffa, 131 note, 144—147. at Karasubazar, 159. at Baktchesarai,
173. Contrast between the Crim Tahtan and the Russians, 298, 299.
Anecdote of the corruption prevailing among the Russian magistrates
and police, 326, 327. Contrast between a Russian and a Modem Greek,
383—385.

Salines, or Salt Works, of Yalovitzky, i. 512.
Scdt'Harveit of Perecop, account of, ii. 315—317.
Salt'Lakes of the Crimea, i. 488, 489, notes.
Salvia Hablitzianaf account of, ii. 299, 300.
Samara, River, notice of, i. 474.

INDEX TO PART THE PIMT.

Sandai, Riisaian, vignette of, 227. of what materials made, 230.

Sash, Blwer, account of, L 497, 600—602.

S6skoy, Canal, account of, i. 459.

Sea iff Azof, remarkable phenomenon in, i. 423, 424.

Serpuehqf, town of, described, i. 230, 231.

Shahin Ohirei, Khan of Crim Tahtary, canaes that led to the deposition

and death of, ii. 173—178. delivered to the Tnrk«, and pat to deathy

180,181.
Sharra, River, notice of, i. 629, 630.

Sheksna, River, account of, i. 502. rivers fisdling into it, 603—605.
ShiU4i, village and caverns of, described, ii. 281, 282.
Siberia, state of exiles in, i. 107. Notice of Tobolsky, 108.
Sinucha, River, notice of, i. 477.
Slavery, universal, in the Russian Empire, i.46, 47, 63. Relative condition

of slaves and their lords, 1 19, 120. Noble behaviour of Count Golo? kin's

peasants, 120.
Smith, Mr. J. S., Memorial of, to the Porte, 466— 482. Reply thereto, 486.
SoldierSf Russian, catechism of, ii. 467—468.
Soros, marble, at Yenikal6, ii. 103.
Sosha, River, notice of, i. 471.

Scfuchtma, River, notice of, i. 604. and ot the Lower Soochona, 61 5.
Souia, River, notice of, L 473.
Souma, River, notice of, i. 611.
Stara Crim, situation of, iL 164. The site of the antient city of Theodoela,

161 note, 166 note. Account of ruined baths there, 164—166. Villa

of the Empress Catherine there, 167. Antient Vallum in its vicinityi

168.
Steppes, nature of, explained, 1. 279. description of them, 308, 309» d22|

323,324. account of animals peculiar to them, 326—331. Distinetioii

between the Cossacks of the Steppes and those of the Don, 334. The

Steppes of the Crimea infested with locusts, ii. 133—136. and with Yeno-

mous insects, 136.
Strabo, geography of, reconciled with that of Pliuy, ii. 68.
Sudak, antient names of, ii. 309 note, notice of its fortress, 463, 464.
Superstitions of the Greek Church, account of, L 28—31. of the Rnssiaii

peasantry, 39, 46,99—101.
Suroke, of the Steppes, account of, i. 325—328.
Suslie, an animal peculiar to the Steppes, description of, L S29 — 331.
Suvorof, ndd- Marshal, anecdotes of, Ii. 270—272. his catechism for the

Russian army, 457—468.
Svir, River, notice of, i. 498.

INDBX TO PART THE FIB8T.

TViMef of Rmsbui meanirei wdght, aiid moii^. L pfelaee^ xiL

Taganrog, sitaation and present state of, L 4S6, 4S7. commeree of,
external and internal, 488—490. state of the country in its vicinity,
438. Variety of inhabitants (bond at Taganrog, iSO, 440. Antiquities,
440.

Tahiar$, Calmnek. See Calmuck Camp.

TaJUar§ (tf the Crimea, cattle of, iL 138. Manners, &c. of the Tahtar
Gentlemen, 13S. their dress, 140. devotion, 171. biuiiarons treatokent
of them by the Rossians, 173. account of those inhabiting the valley of
Baidar, 832 — ^834. their dwellings, 836. their domestic manners and
habits, 836—840. Manner of thrashing com, 840. Tahtar school de-
scribed, 163. Tahtar nobles, 808.

Takian, Nagay, difference between them and the Tahtais of the Crimea,
iL 318, 319. account of their manners and customs, 318, 313 notes.

Taman, Fortress of, its injudicious situation, iL 80—88. antient mbis in its
vicinity, 88—00. inscriptions, 08—06.

Tamui, or Don, River, etymology of, i. 337—340, 448.

probable situation of the antient city of, L 416.

Tarantula Spider, observations on, ii. 107.

Teherkatk, a city of the Don Cossacks, extraordinary appearance of, i. 361.
its inhabitants amphibious, 361. when founded, 377, 378. its situatioB,
388 note, population, 368. Tahtar mosque, 363. Regalia presenred in
the principal church, ibid. 364, 366. othdr public bnildhigs, 366, 367.
fingtiUr custom of blcssing bread, 368. coAmerce, 380, 381. polished
manners of its hihabitants, 386, 386. survey of the city, 387—380.
houses removed entire, 300.

Tcherkestkermanf ruins of the fortress of, ii. 876.

Tehemomorski Co§»aekt. See Cauaekt of the Black Sea,

T^etirdagh, the antient Trapeius, account of, ii. 860, 861. aisconnt
of the author's passage over, 861, 868. rare plants found there, 863.

Tehorgonoy Valley, description of, iL 804, 806. danger of the dimate, 806.
Tahtar Nobles there, 807.

Telegul, Gulph, account of, i. 478, 479.

Temperature of the atmosphere during the author's trayeis, iL 613 et

seq.
Tempeit, terrible, described, ii. 406—400.
Templet, origin of, ii. 76.
Temrook, antient and present state of, ii. 64, 66.
Theagenet, Cippus of, described, ii. 807—800.
Thrft universally practised in Russia, i. 183.
TkeodotiOf antient ruins of, at Stara Crim, ii. 164—166.

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST.

Thraekm Sotponu, cooseqaenceB reenlting fVom the opening of, il. 970—
372. origin of it, 437. its antiquities, 438—449. Probable situation of

Darius, when he surreyed the Enxine, 439.
Thrathing, Talitar mode of, ii. 349.
Toad, remarkable, account of, ii. 320.
ToboUky, town of, described, L 108, 109.
Tombif antient, in the Cimmerian Bosporus, ii. 70—74. at Yenikal^, 103.

of Theagenes, at Aktiar, 107—100.
TorshoK notice of, i. 48, 49.
TrcmeUing, precautions to be used in, i. 215. state of, in Russia, 236, 236.

in Caucasus, 49. facility of, in Russia, ii. 322.
Travelling ApparatuM of Dr. Clarke, described, i. 16 — 18.
TWattfry, Imperial, at Moscow, description of, and of its contents, L

157—164.
Triniiy, Convent of, described, i. 128, 129.
Trubetskoy, Prince, turned pawnbroker, i. 110, 111.
Tsarst antient palace of, at Moscow, described, i. 155, 156.
Tsarsko'^do, palace and gardens of, described, i. 19, 20.
Tula, town of, described, i. 230, 841. manu&ctuTes at, 237, 238. road

thence to Woronetz, 243—245.
Tumuli, sepulchral, i. 42, 50, 51. Vignette of the Tumuli at Woronetz, 260.

account of them, 277. in the yicinity of Taganrog, 240. in Kuban

Tahtary, ii. 14. at Sienna, in the Cimmerian Bosporus, 70 — 72. near

Yenikal6, 109. Tumulusof Mithridates, 111— 114.
Turkiih Cqffee-Houie, description of, i. 405.
Turks, appearance and manners of, at Ineada, ii. 415.
Tver, brief description of, 1. 49, 50.
Tver$chaia, Chapel of, described, L 97.
TweddeU MSS, mysterious disappearance of, ii. 120 note.

Udgino, Iron mines of, L 255.

Ukraine, Banditti of, account of, ii. 823—325. Anecdote of a desperate
robber, 326, 327.

Vdlday, Heights of, i. 41 . costume of the peasants of, ibid.

Valley of Baidar, described, ii. 232—234. of Tchorgona, 294—300.

VaUum of Asander, description of, ii. 140—142.

ViHa, Ri?er, notice of, i. 529.

VUitoeky, Canal, account of, i. 453.

Vtgh, River, notice of, i. 510, 511.

FU/o^fes named in Roaiian maps, real natore of, L 330.

t-rf

INDEX TO PART THE FIRST.

Virgm VfUh Three Handiy legendary accoimt of, L 30. with the Bleeding
Cheek, 97. extraordinary picture of» 365.

Virtu, Dealen in, at Moscow, L 216^ 216.

Vitegra, River, notice of, and of its tributary streaniai i. 606.

Vladimir the Great, Coins of, iL 290.

Voleanie leland near Temrook, il. 86.

Volehqf, Riier, cataracts of, L 458, 485. riyers falling into it, 495, 496.

Volga, Rirer, project for the Junction of, with the Don, i. 462—464. Ac-
count of rivers foiling into the Volga, 490—494.

FofofAo, River, notice of, i. 518.

Vyihney Voloehok, notice of, i. 47, 48. account of its canal, 453, 455.

Wager, anecdote of a remarkable one, L 387.

White Sea, notice of rivers falling into, i. 512,613.

Whittoorth, Sir Charles, tyrannical treatment of, by the Emperor Paul, L 4.

Wine, Champagne, how imitated, i. 263 note. Wine of the Don, 272, 381 .

Women, condition of, among the Calmucka, i. 315, 317.

Woronetz, present state of, L 261. climate and produetioos, Ibid. 252.

situation, 263. Botanic garden there, fiirmed by Peter the Great, 265.

Inundation and product of the rivers, 267. Increase of new buildings,

268. Commerce, external and internal, 269—271. Delightful plains

South of Woronetz, 279.

YampoUh, Cataract of, i. 489.

Yaoghel, River, notice of, i. 522.

YenXkaU, arrival of the author at, ii. 98. situation of the fortress, 102.

marble soros there. Ibid. Singular antient sepulchre, 103. ruins in its

neighbourhood, 108, 109.

Zadonetz, Town of, notice of, i. 256, 257.

O. NOftMAN, rXIMTXB, MAIOBH LAMB, COVSMT OAaOBV.

THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY

RBFERENGB DEPARTMENT

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